Hardwire kit alternative

[DaddyofTwo]

Hi
Installed HK3 hardwire kit for my A129 4k Pro and it was working for about a day until it stopped. Checked all the fuses and replaced the Add a Fuses with no luck. Complained to Viofo who sent me another HK3. This time I actually soldered the Add a Fuses and it worked for about a week. ( The original one didn't look like the cables are damaged when I removed it).
Pretty well hacked off with this hardwire kit. Am I alone in this problem? Is there an alternative kit that I can buy with the parking mode functionality? Could I have installed it incorrectly so that the hardwire kits blew?
(And to cap it all the rear camera stopped working. I bought a new cable and that hasn't helped. Awaiting a new rear camera from Viofo. Must say that their customer support is good even if I've had a lot of grief with the dashcam)

 

[Nigel]

What has gone wrong with the hk3s?

Note that it wont power up without starting the engine, so if you are in lockdown and not starting the engine, that might explain it!

Generally, Viofo stuff is pretty good, so to get two bad ones is certainly unusual. No manufacturer ever reaches 0% failure rate though.

 

[DaddyofTwo]

Hi Nigel

Thanks for the reply - but yes I did start the engine. I had left it a week or two in hoping that it would restart working before having half a day spare for stripping down all the front trim and having the neighbours laughing at me again.

G

 

[DaddyofTwo]

Hk3s stopped powering up the dashcam. But it works on the cigar lighter leads.

 

[Aly_Oops]

No issue with mine. You have three leads, one that get switch off and another directly connected to battery. Of course the ground, which I connect to the battery ground.

Both lines should be fused (5 amp). Don't use 20 amp.

There is a module that shut off when voltage drops below setting. If your unit doesn't power up when vehicle is shut off, it may be the cause. Normally it would shut off when your battery voltage drops below setting and won't work, until battery voltage is up. If you have a bad vehicle battery, below 11 volts when vehicle is off, then it will never power up while park.

Check your battery voltage, it should be 12.8 when vehicle is off after several minutes. I use a tool that tells me life percentage, resistance and start test. If it drops below 10.8 you got a bad battery, probably a cell shorted.

In some cases, low voltage is due to very cold weather and short trips, so it never charges fully. One should then properly charge up the battery to full in those cases. Temporary issues, especially with Diesel truck in -30 C or more.

However, when you start your vehicle, your dash cam should power on. Is this the case?

It may be a good idea to measure the voltage on all connections, just in case your dc source isn't correct. Be sure you didn't connect to a dc to ac convertor cirucit that many vehicles have? When measuring check reading in DC and AC settings.

It is good news that VIOFO are helpful in replacing failures. Thank you VIOFO for such support!

 

[Teflon490]

First check if you see a little red light in the ventilation holes on the HK3.

 

[DaddyofTwo]

Aly and Teflon.

Thanks for all this advice - but I've done all that except test battery strength but it starts my 3.0 diesel first time and has run down a 200 mile motorway trip (before the lockdown) so can't believe that it the battery is less than 11.6V or whatever.

The connection is s dead as a dodo all the time on the hardwire kit. No red light anymore, or screen. But works fine on cigar lighter lead.

It was working both times for a few days so I presume that I had managed to follow the very simple instructions correctly. I have tried different fuses which seem to have given correct voltage on my multimeter.

Viofo tell me that there is no internal replaceable fuse so I can only presume that it's a bad batch - perhaps in the voltage cut off switch which looks pretty cheap and nasty to me. (And yes I have tried switching it off the minimum and back). Alternatively I was wondering if there might have been a surge on switching on which killed the hardwire kit. I have 5w fuses in - perhaps next time I'll try 1w (or 2w if they don't make 1w) to see if they blow. I spent far, far too many hours on this.

Just wondering if there was an alternative three wire hardwire kit before doing this for a third time.

 

[Nigel]

Alternatively I was wondering if there might have been a surge on switching on which killed the hardwire kit. I have 5w fuses in - perhaps next time I'll try 1w (or 2w if they don't make 1w) to see if they blow. I spent far, far too many hours on this.

Seems unlikely it was a surge, it should be able to cope with more voltage than your other car electronics, since it can also be used for trucks which run at higher voltage.

Changing the fuse rating will make no difference, unless it is the fuse that has failed. Presumably you have tested the voltage at the hwk leads to rule out a blown fuse?

Might be worth checking your voltage when the engine is running, it is possible that your alternator is failing and only generating 12.9 volts, which would explain the problem since the hwk will not power up until about 13 volts.

Might be worth opening it up to check for bad connections, it is more likely to be poor soldering on the power cable than a component failure.

Although there are other 3 wire hardwire kits, I'm not sure if any are compatible with the A129 Pro. StreetGuardian have a very similar one, but it is not identical, and the A129 Pro takes more power than most cameras so the hwk is higher rated.

Maybe get a replacement from a different supplier, just so that it is from a different batch, in case there is a faulty batch of them.

 

[DaddyofTwo]

Hi Nigel

Cheers I'll check the voltage whilst engine is running. Pretty sure not the soldering as it's the same problem twice (actually three times as I have changed the Add a Fuse). Fuses are fine and there is voltage there and the other fuses that I have tried clipping them into. Otherwise looks like I am stuck with the HK3 (did get kit directly from Vofio on Amazon and replacement from them.

Was about a month ago now that I replaced the second kit- was sick to death of fiddling around trying to get it working and had other more pressing tasks (or so the missus was telling me)- so presumably any replacement should now be from a new batch).

Cheers

G

 

[Aly_Oops]

The reason for the fuse, is not to replace a bad fuse, but protection for excessive current should it happen.

If you start the truck (I have diesel truck), yes after a few seconds your 11 volt battery, (if it weak battery) will go up due to alternator. So not the time to do a voltage reading. Truck should be off, not running and allow a few minutes afterward and do a voltage test. Better yet, do diagnostic

 

[Aly_Oops]

Don't assume, you should test with voltage meter. Otherwise you be going in loops.

Also, the fuse suggestion was not to replace or check for bad fuse, but be sure to use 5 amp, not 20 amp. Especially if you use a piggy back fuse. Safety.

Also, don't test voltage while truck is running. Test when truck has been sitting for a short while. You will be surprise how many batteries on a edge of use.
I have diesel and two batteries. During cold weather it will drop to 11 volts and if I do short runs, it won't charge up fully. During winter I occasional do battery charge with my charger. Yes, the odds are your are under 11.6 volts as per your details. How old is your battery? Many batteries drop to the edge with just 2 or 3 years. (always some exceptions.). Mine is 3 years old and I am down to 95%, which is great. Running down the battery to 50 percent for floods shorten the life span.

I use the following tool to check all my batteries, including RV AGM.
KZYEE KS21 Auto Battery Tester, 12V CCA Car Battery Load Tester Digital Analyzer for Vehicle Battery Health, Cranking and Charging System

The fact you had replace the kit twice and the same problem, seems to suggest you missing something. (High odds you got two bad kits?)
Did you test with voltage meter, when truck if off, that you in fact still have 12 volts. Did you check voltage on either side of the fuse, especially if you add it.

To pinpoint probable issue, you need to be more specific, such as where you did your connections. Did you take a voltage reading when truck (some truck have a short timer, like mine) is off.

Without all the details, it can become difficult to resolve.

 

[DaddyofTwo]

Hi Aly

It's not actually a truck but an 8 year old E Class Merc 350d. As you probably know there are a lot of diesel cars in the UK.

Voltage was about 12.5 volts after not being used for several days before I turned the engine off, and I am pretty sure that that the battery is strong - especially as it has a stop start system and cranks up first time.

I've just tried a couple of extra locations for the add a fuse, and still as dead as a dodo.

I guess it must be lightening striking twice. I will ask Viofo if they will kindly send me a third one and when the lock down in the UK ends I will get a professional to fit it as I am sick to death with this.

G

 

[Aly_Oops]

Did you try as a test, connected the wire directly to your battery and also the ground... Set the switch to 11 volt cutoff. Most of my fuses are not live with vehicle off. Doing that will eliminate that issue.

Okay, if it 12.5 or higher, sound good, however once a load is put on, it may drop. Need to measure with vehicle off, but perhaps some load added without starting vehicle. If it doesn't drop below 12, sound good. Hopefully when you measured the 12.5 volt, you didn't start the vehicle, as you mention "before I turned the engine off", hopefully you meant on, otherwise your test is not valid.

My dodge diesel 2500 truck turn over on first try, even with 11 volt, unless very cold -20c... One would think battery is okay, in my case, it is, as my test proved. When starting the truck, if it drop below 10.8, then battery is no good. Mine didn't drop below 11, so both batteries are good.

Diesel engine take a large current start and if you don't drive much, it may not fully charged. Which is one reason park mode may stop during the night for some. Park mode is no good with vehicle with poor batteries.

Having a tool, like the one, elimates lots of guess work. And they cheap to buy.
I use the following tool to check all my batteries, including RV AGM.
KZYEE KS21 Auto Battery Tester, 12V CCA Car Battery Load Tester Digital Analyzer for Vehicle Battery Health, Cranking and Charging System

 

[DaddyofTwo]

It's all working. Viofo kindly sent me out a new front cam and I think that was the problem.

I rewired the connections on the second HK3 kit as they were looking a bit suspect / broken after I had tried them in numerous fuse positions.

But definitely the front camera bit was broken as now the rear works.

Many thanks for all your help and advice. Loving the dashcam.

 

[v81]

Just joined and came across this, was suggested at the bottom of the page after i made a post about our issue.
I've measured the output of a HK3 under load with a scope and got some frightening results.
Take a look here if interested.

HK3 hard wire kit - terrible voltage regulation

So, not an owner of a Viofo cam myself, have been going through nightmares trying to install one with my father. First - this is not a 129 issue, this is a HK3 hard wire kit issue. Posting here as the related camera is an A129 Pro Duo First install resulted in a camera that functioned for...

dashcamtalk.com

I'll not be blindly connecting any replacement HK3 until I'm satisfied it's clean on the bench.
Just as we've had issues with the camera not working, there is an equal chance that a replacement camera might be just tolerant enough to appear to work, even with the rotten power supply.

 

[HonestReview]

Just joined and came across this, was suggested at the bottom of the page after i made a post about our issue.
I've measured the output of a HK3 under load with a scope and got some frightening results.
Take a look here if interested.

HK3 hard wire kit - terrible voltage regulation

So, not an owner of a Viofo cam myself, have been going through nightmares trying to install one with my father. First - this is not a 129 issue, this is a HK3 hard wire kit issue. Posting here as the related camera is an A129 Pro Duo First install resulted in a camera that functioned for...

dashcamtalk.com

I'll not be blindly connecting any replacement HK3 until I'm satisfied it's clean on the bench.
Just as we've had issues with the camera not working, there is an equal chance that a replacement camera might be just tolerant enough to appear to work, even with the rotten power supply.

The Hk3 hardwire kit works and includes a voltage cutoff. The biggest issue is selecting the proper fuses (ACC - Ignition) and (Battery - Always On) without interfering with other vehicle systems. Avoid Safety related fuses (airbag, braking, etc) and Computer Modules. Always select the less benign fuses first. If any issues (as sometimes a fuse is tied into other systems), move the fuse tap to another fuse slot. It's a bit of trial and error.

 

[v81]

The Hk3 hardwire kit works and includes a voltage cutoff. The biggest issue is selecting the proper fuses (ACC - Ignition) and (Battery - Always On) without interfering with other vehicle systems. Avoid Safety related fuses (airbag, braking, etc) and Computer Modules. Always select the less benign fuses first. If any issues (as sometimes a fuse is tied into other systems), move the fuse tap to another fuse slot. It's a bit of trial and error.

Did you even look at the thread i linked to?
The output of the HK3 is disgusting under lab conditions, and will be no better in a real install.
2 different units have failed in a real install with carefully selected power sources.
2 of 2 units tested have exhibited this result.
Just because it appears to work for many people does not mean the HK3 is a shoddy design with a frightful output.

 

[HonestReview]

Did you even look at the thread i linked to?
The output of the HK3 is disgusting under lab conditions, and will be no better in a real install.
2 different units have failed in a real install with carefully selected power sources.
2 of 2 units tested have exhibited this result.
Just because it appears to work for many people does not mean the HK3 is a shoddy design with a frightful output.

Overlooked your thread. Seems you were the recipient of two faulty HK3's. 3rd one functioned properly, allowing camera to enter park mode. I've got 3 HK3's in use and all function what I presume to be correctly. All have a voltage cutoff of 12.2. Cameras start with vehicle's ignition, enter parking mode with vehicle shutoff, and turn off if Voltage gets low with an Asterisk. I have not measured whether the voltage is actually cutting off at exactly 12.2. I've just assumed things are working correctly. So I can't speak to whether the Voltage Numbers selected on the cutoff are actually the true numbers in which the Camera powers off.

 

[v81]

Overlooked your thread. Seems you were the recipient of two faulty HK3's. 3rd one functioned properly, allowing camera to enter park mode. I've got 3 HK3's in use and all function what I presume to be correctly. All have a voltage cutoff of 12.2. Cameras start with vehicle's ignition, enter parking mode with vehicle shutoff, and turn off if Voltage gets low with an Asterisk. I have not measured whether the voltage is actually cutting off at exactly 12.2. I've just assumed things are working correctly. So I can't speak to whether the Voltage Numbers selected on the cutoff are actually the true numbers in which the Camera powers off.

In the other thread i've tested cutoff more thoroughly after my initial rough test, it seems like they do cutoff close enough to be considered OK.
I don't have a working unit yet, given the output of the 2 faulty units and the components that make up the circuit even if a known working one came to me i'd still test it on the bench.
Just because a unit might appear to power a dashcam and make it functional it doesn't guarantee it is healthy.
See the capture of a cheap Chinese ebay regulator i got for 50 cents, that is what the output *should* look like.
Pic is later on 1st page of thread.

 

[HonestReview]

In the other thread i've tested cutoff more thoroughly after my initial rough test, it seems like they do cutoff close enough to be considered OK.
I don't have a working unit yet, given the output of the 2 faulty units and the components that make up the circuit even if a known working one came to me i'd still test it on the bench.
Just because a unit might appear to power a dashcam and make it functional it doesn't guarantee it is healthy.
See the capture of a cheap Chinese ebay regulator i got for 50 cents, that is what the output *should* look like.
Pic is later on 1st page of thread.

Pretty much as long as the HK3's are playing nicely with my vehicle, a little variance in voltage isn't going to be an issue. I've got a 5 amp fuse protecting the camera's circuit. My cameras enter normal recording and park mode without issue. Albeit I had some problems for a little while, but that apparently was related to my car battery going bad. Once replaced, those issues resolved.

Ultimately, I'm more than willing to replace my car battery more often to have a functional dash camera with parking mode. I have no interference or erratic vehicle behavior on any of the fuses I've tapped. Camera works as described. End of day, I'm more worried that my camera and HK3 work. Which I've bought 3 HK3 (two running in my car) and one in another vehicle, and none have had issue.

Hopefully your faulty camera and HK3 issues can be resolved so you can get a functional setup working.