Hardwire kit - which one?

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Sentinel

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I have a SpyTec A119 I bought from Amazon and it has been working great for a long time. I moved stuff around in my car and I wanted to install a hard-wire kit so that I no longer had to have it plugged in to a USB port. First one I tried was this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00MH4ZVHO
I did not hook it up directly to the battery (always hot) instead I hooked it up to a switched line so that it would go off when the car was off and on when I started the car up. At first it appeared to be working fine but then I realized that it was not. It was not always starting up reliably. Sometimes it would turn on when I started up the car, sometimes not. But if I turned the car off and then back on it would work fine. Not acceptable.

So now I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B01LXC2329
Not made for it but other reviews said that they used it for the Viofo A119 so I thought it might work better. So far so good.

Anyone else have issues hard-wiring this thing in? Anything I should look out for? Anyone else try this new wire?
 
Sometimes it’s the fuse choice that’s the issue. On some cars, power to certain fuses will dip when the car is starting. If you turn the key to accessory, the camera will begin to start. If you then turn the key all the way to start, power may dip to the chosen fuse and the camera will think power is lost and not start. It could also depend on how long you linger on accessory before turning the key all the way to start. Some hardwire kits could also have slightly different delays between input and output that could exacerbate (or help) the issue. In any case, if you experience the issue again, I’d try a different fuse.
 
I have it connected to a power outlet/socket (cigarette lighter in old guy speak). I have 2 "sockets". One that is always hot and one that is switched. I have the wire connected to the switched one. That is the same socket that I used to have a USB adapter in and had the cam plugged into that. Now it is just hardwired behind the dash, but same source.

I am aware that if I use accessory like listening to the radio with car off, then all my cameras get funky. But this is not that. This from a dead start. Get into the car and start the car. Nothing on the cam. Only used to happen when the car sat for a while though. If I turned it off and on multiple times throughout the day it was fine.

The new wire seems ot be working fine so far. My uneducated guess is that the official spytec wire was desinged ot be connected to hot (alwasy on) socket. therefore it had a seonsor that checked the state of the battery and supposedly shuit the device down if it detected that the battery was getting too low. Because of this it kinda stayed on, but since I connected it to a switched outlet it kinda messed with it. The new wire, by comparison, I don't think is designed that way. I think it is designed to be connected to a switched outlet. So it may work better for my application. Only time will tell.
 
That Spytec hardwire kit is designed to tap into a fuse in the fuse box. Either always on or only on when car starts. It's the same exact kit that Viofo sells. It does have a low voltage cut off, but it's 11.6V, which is way to low to be of any real use. There may be an inherent delay from when power enters and when it exits, not sure. Your new kit may be either faster or slower, depending on why the camera is not starting. Just a guess on my part, but many have had this issue and it was solved (for many) by taping into a different fuse.
 
Exactly , a car wouldn't start the other day put the charger on and it reads 11.6V , why alot of hardwire kits default and only setting is 11.6V is beyond me .
 
So far still good for the "Rexing Hardwire Kit". That still seems to be working fine. Only down side is the connector is right angle going down and A119 is on the right side and needs one going straight or up, but a minor annoyance if it works correctly.
 
Final review:
After putting this thing through its paces and full testing I would recommend getting the Rexing wire rather than the Spytec if you are going to hook it up to a switched power line. Working great and I'm very glad I found the review from another A119 user that had it on Amazon. Works great.
 
That looks exactly like the cable that SpyTec sent me. Virtually identical. If it is then all I can tell you is that it does not work for everyone. It depends on your vehicle and installation. And it's not just me. Feel free to read numerous reviews on Amazon of others that had the same results or other also negative results. Granted there are a lot of positive reviews also so it does seem as though it really depends on the vehicle or line connected to. Your results will definitely vary.
 
Sentinel said:
That looks exactly like the cable that SpyTec sent me. Virtually identical. If it is then all I can tell you is that it does not work for everyone. It depends on your vehicle and installation. And it's not just me. Feel free to read numerous reviews on Amazon of others that had the same results or other also negative results. Granted there are a lot of positive reviews also so it does seem as though it really depends on the vehicle or line connected to. Your results will definitely vary.
Click to expand...
I've seen this many times. Looks are deceiving. One manufacturer copies items from another manufacturer. The copies are not identical & may not work.
 
Sentinel said:
...seem as though it really depends on the vehicle or line connected to. Your results will definitely vary.
Click to expand...

well yeah, if you don't hook it up to a line providing a constant 12v, or make poor connections (i personally don't like those add-a-fuse things that piggyback on existing fuses), then of course it will not work right.

can't tell you how many times i had to fix "bubba" style installations of car stereos and DVD players... the person who installed it had just twisted wires together and (if we're lucky) covered them with electrical tape. and then they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work all the time or was blowing fuses. :rolleyes:
 
Gibson99 said:
well yeah, if you don't hook it up to a line providing a constant 12v, or make poor connections (i personally don't like those add-a-fuse things that piggyback on existing fuses), then of course it will not work right.

can't tell you how many times i had to fix "bubba" style installations of car stereos and DVD players... the person who installed it had just twisted wires together and (if we're lucky) covered them with electrical tape. and then they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work all the time or was blowing fuses. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
I agree. No doubt some people screw up the install and then blame the wire. That is inevitable and just part of internet noise that a savvy consumer must wade through. Trust me though, my review is not that.

Mine was not hooked up to a constant on 12v connection. I did say that from the beginning. I have also said a few times that this wire is designed to be hooked up that way AND if you do hook it up that way your results might be different. My comments are solely directed to the many people, like myself, that try to hook it up to a switched line so it goes off when the car is off; again, a connection that this cable states it is not designed for but which many people use it for.

My connection to the switched line was done perfectly; not "bubba"d, trust me. I did not hook it to a "add-a-fuse" thing. I hooked it directly to a switched power outlet using solder and correct connectors. I have connected many things using this connection that I created and have tested it thoroughly with a meter. The connections are fine. It is the cable.

My feeling is that since this cable is designed to run constant and has a "drain disconnect" that is designed to cut off power if the drain gets too severe, it gets messed up somehow if the power is cut off abruptly such as when I shut off the key IF you have it connected to a switched line. The numerous other reviews stating the same thing from others seems to bear this out. What is needed for this kind of installation is a wire designed for a switched line, like the one I replaced it with.
 
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Rocket_Scientist said:
I've seen this many times. Looks are deceiving. One manufacturer copies items from another manufacturer. The copies are not identical & may not work.
Click to expand...
Agreed. That is possible. It could be a knock off, but it is from Spytec. Not a fly by night outfit, no? I can't see why they would that. My guess would be that they just take the Viofo one from Viofo and put it in a Spytec bag. Even still the Viofo one is also designed for constant on, not switched connection. Not their fault. Their cable is not designed for what I want to do which is switched connection. Too bad they don't have one for that use.
Thanks though.
 
Sentinel said:
That looks exactly like the cable that SpyTec sent me. Virtually identical.
Click to expand...

the housings are public tooling, there are many different versions internally so it depends where it originated from as to what version it is, very confusing for an end user when they all look the same
 
It's all about the wire gauge of the copper inside the cable, it could be 20, 22, 24 or 26 gauge. I've seen "fat" cables with the smallest wire gauge. Google "DC Voltage Drop".

You can switch it on/off with one of these. It's short enough so as not to cause voltage drop.
s-l1600.jpg
 
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CaptureYourAction said:
That Spytec hardwire kit is designed to tap into a fuse in the fuse box. Either always on or only on when car starts. It's the same exact kit that Viofo sells. It does have a low voltage cut off, but it's 11.6V, which is way to low to be of any real use. There may be an inherent delay from when power enters and when it exits, not sure. Your new kit may be either faster or slower, depending on why the camera is not starting. Just a guess on my part, but many have had this issue and it was solved (for many) by taping into a different fuse.
Click to expand...
So, here l sit with a new Spytec installation kit, not knowing what size fuse to add to the fuse tap. I'm just installing a basic dashcam, as it is my first. the Spytec label says 'free volt input: 12v-24v; volt/current output: DC5V/1.5A'. Can you tell me what fuse to add?
 
Harpo said:
So, here l sit with a new Spytec installation kit, not knowing what size fuse to add to the fuse tap. I'm just installing a basic dashcam, as it is my first. the Spytec label says 'free volt input: 12v-24v; volt/current output: DC5V/1.5A'. Can you tell me what fuse to add?
Click to expand...
You can tap into a 10-20A fuse in your fuse box, but use a 5A (or less) on the side that protects the dash camera.
 
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