Hardwiring a dashcam

[Broadsman]

I recently posted information regarding the use of piggy back fuse holders this proved that a lot of people are posting incorrect information I am a fully qualified marine electrical officer.
As my previous posts created more concern for some people I promised to post a easy to understand for people who are not technically qualified and get confused by the jargon used.
First I would like to point out that the instructions apply to all vehicles including those with can bus and keyless entry with pushbutton starting.
Tools used
A good quality universal crimper + 12 volt tester with earth lead + Japanese connectors with silicone covers, much better quality and neater than Scotch locks.
Tip when making the connections you will see that the wires on the hardwire kit can be quite thin. After you have stripped the cable to make a joint put the stripped wire on the insulated part by doubling back, when crimping make sure that the bare wire is opposite to the split in the connection piece for a very safe joint.
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Buy a suitable / manufacturer hardwire kit for the dashcam this is a very important thing do.

2 before you hardwire the system check every thing is working OK by temporarily setting the system up.

3 look at the hardwire kit you will see that it consists of 4 parts.
As follows.
The plug for the dashcam obviously.

Next you will see a box I won't go into technical details just that it is protection for you're dashcam.

Next you may have a glass fuse
( slow blow type ) under no circumstances cut this off. Make sure it is easily accessible at the end of the installation.

Next the hard part for some you will find 2 or 3 wires to connect up.
How to do it
First use a screwdriver type tester with a earth lead and crocodile clip. With the ignition key removed find the nearest fusebox inside the car and remove the cover.
Next connect the crocodile clip to a suitable earth ( pick a good one as you will connect the earth wire here ) just find a suitable screw or bolt for this purpose.
Next you will most likely find empty fuse locations if not you will have to use a piggy back connector on a fuse of around 10 - 15 amps. The main thing is that this is live with the ignition key removed ( permanent live ).
The piggy back connector can be used in an empty fuse location as well as a fused location to keep things easy check the correct fitting of the piggy back in both cases the red lead on the piggy back should not be live until a fuse is fitted check both fuse locations, in the case of tapping into an existing fuse the fuse needs to be replaced and the original use for this should be checked to see that it is still working the red wire should not have any power at this point.
Now the part that confuses there are three wires
1 BLACK this is the earth wire
2 RED this is the permanent live wire ( as just described )
3 WHITE - YELLOW or any other colour chosen by the manufacturer this can also be given different names i.e. pilot wire, control wire and ACC wire this is mainly due to it's use's in other parts of the world.
The simple explanation of this is that it is a live wire but only when it is switched on.
So for this we need to find a fuse that becomes live when the ignition key is inserted and turned to the first position without starting the vehicle ACC on ignition barrel.
Final check
Red permanent live
Black earth
White switched live.
I hope this will make things much easier for people to have the confidence to do this job, please note these hardwire kits are available on Amazon for satnav, spotlights and led daytime running lights. Basically all of these are to help anyone to do the job correctly. Before I sign off I recently purchased a new dual dashcam system to replace a single Nextbase dashcam, after a bit of searching I decided to buy a Mini 0906 in preference to an Aukey dual dashcam, however I did note that Aukey have a simple hardwire kit that simply plugs into the diagnostic socket I am quite sure this will be the future of dashcams. Something I was totally unaware of was the type and make of micro SD cards you use can have the warranty invalidated if used in a dashcam, as well as being unsuitable for this purpose. I have now purchased Lexar 32 GB high endurance SD card claimed to be one of the top ten for use in dashcams, guess what my old Nextbase dashcam has been reborn you are never to old to learn.

 

[DashcamDPR]

The Nextbase kit requires no stripping/crimping, perfect for amateurs like myself

 

[jokiin]

Use a multimeter not a test light

 

[franka]

For those that want to use "scotch lock" connectors, my advice is avoid them like the plague, they have long term unreliability and if used incorrectly can damage the conductors of the cables you are joining.

Always use soldered or crimp connectors, but use the correct size of crimp connector and always crimp with the correct tool. Pliers, and other such things do not produce correct crimps.

 

[franka]

Use a multimeter not a test light

As jokiin says "use a multimeter", or" preferably use a multimeter"

Why? A testlight, if it uses a filament bulb, will only tell you if a voltage is present It will not tell you its polarity or magntude.

Conversely, it is more expensive but is also more versatile.

 

[jokiin]

Main reason not to is you can damage a computer or pop an airbag using a test light, multimeter is much safer option

 

[SawMaster]

Finding a suitable ground point can be a problem with many of today's cars making wide use of plastics. Metal sub-assemblies may be mounted through plastic grommets to isolate noise or vibration, so what might appear to be a good ground might not be. Look for points where the factory wiring is grounded and tie in there If you have an old incandescant test light, it's time to retire it. Only LED test lights should be used and they are quite cheap enough. Cheap DMM's are accurate enough for almost all automotive use and are handy around the house too so that's what I recommend

Most important of all (and this will never change) is to read and understand the instructions before doing anything else. If after this you're still not certain of what you need to be doing seek qualified assistance. There's too much at stake here to get it wrong

Phil

 

[franka]

Main reason not to is you can damage a computer or pop an airbag using a test light, multimeter is much safer option

You are quite right "jokiin". I am not suggesting you use a testlight on computers, or any electronic circuits, but to check a power rail to see if power is present would be acceptable.

 

[jokiin]

very easy to damage something on a modern vehicle using a test light if you don't know what you're doing

 

[BEJ42]

I have a 512G which was hard wired into the car by an auto electrician. When the ignition is switched off the screen goes blank. However, it continues to draw current. I have replaced two batteries over 5 years before I found this out. Now have to disconnect the camera if I don't use the car for more than a week.

 

[Nigel]

For those that want to use "scotch lock" connectors, my advice is avoid them like the plague, they have long term unreliability and if used incorrectly can damage the conductors of the cables you are joining.

Always use soldered or crimp connectors, but use the correct size of crimp connector and always crimp with the correct tool. Pliers, and other such things do not produce correct crimps.

Cables are often the incorrect size for the crimps. You can sometimes improve things by folding back the end of the cable to get double thickness, but the best way to attach the wires, even if they are the correct size, is always to solder them in to the crimp connector. It takes a little longer but then you don't need a crimp tool at all and it gives a neater and much more reliable connection.

The piggy back connector can be used in an empty fuse location as well as a fused location to keep things easy check the correct fitting of the piggy back in both cases the red lead on the piggy back should not be live until a fuse is fitted check both fuse locations, in the case of tapping into an existing fuse the fuse needs to be replaced and the original use for this should be checked to see that it is still working the red wire should not have any power at this point.

If tapping into an existing fuse, the camera shouldn't be powered unless both fuses are in place, if the camera operates even without the original fuse then the fuse tap is the wrong way around. Unlikely to cause a problem, but it is safer the correct way around.

 

[franka]

very easy to damage something on a modern vehicle using a test light if you don't know what you're doing

I am not diagreeing with you in any way and if you don't know what you are doing you should not even be touching electrics, either on the car or anywhere else.

 

[Ralph2]

very easy to damage something on a modern vehicle using a test light if you don't know what you're doing

Fully qualified marine electrical officer(s) don't necessarily learn the intricacies of automotive electric circuits. Very few airbags on a boat.

 

[Hillbilly]

Your instructions fail when you give a blanket instruction of RED TO PERM LIVE A PMP is YELLOW to perm live for starters and there is a correct way to use an addafuse like this Also Your way to find a permanent live can fail as lots of cars have delayed shutoffs and a circuit that may appear as live may shut off after 30 mins or so.
Here is what I do Open door find a live circuit (spare or used) Leave meter attached for 35 mins check its still live and then connect the hot wire in my case thats the yellow wire turn acc on to find next lead connect red to it . Connect earth wire All done As far as fuses are concerned a lot of cameras have a fuse of the correct capacity in the Ciggy plug I have found the best way is to leave the plug on, for two reasons and buy a ciggy socket and wire that to the addafuse. Why well if you want to remove the camera to use in another car , like on holiday in a rental you can. Cut the plug off and its effectively stuffed.
Im not a qualified anything but have wired up my Landcruiser with 2nd battery and circuits using up to 4 B&S for van battery and fridge, added extra gauges and installed several dashcams in different makes of cars inc my two VW's which are notoriously fussy with circuits.. All of it works.

Any one who uses Scotchlocks should be burnt alive with the car when it does the same.

Never use a test light to short to earth Airbags are rather expensive if they get shorted

Also I dont solder fine wires in a situation where they could vibrate and snap at the end of the solder Better just to crimp them properly

Solder and heavy heatshrink helps if you really want to do it Bullets are good as can be removed easily leaving the fuse wire ends for reconnection if you have to remove camera temporarily

 

[franka]

Any one who uses Scotchlocks should be burnt alive with the car when it does the same.

Also I dont solder fine wires in a situation where they could vibrate and snap at the end of the solder Better just to crimp them properly

Solder and heavy heatshrink helps if you really want to do it Bullets are good as can be removed easily leaving the fuse wire ends for reconnection if you have to remove camera temporarily

All good stuff to prevent an unreliable job.

 

[Hillbilly]

I notice you avoid mentioning the meat in the story which if followed could cause damage

Sorry this is addressed to the OP who interestingly has not returned after posting incorrect information which may cause damage to your car if followeed

 

[SjConnor]

I have a general question.
I bought rexing hard wiring kit (I went with that because it comes with angle/elbow USB connector), it has a fuse (15A) attached to the red wire.
Can I simply remove an existing fuse and install this there to get the power? Or do I have to use an empty slot?
Ground is readily available, there is a bolt that we can use.

At first I want to use a switched power, later I want to upgrade to constant on and use low voltage protector in between.
Any suggestion/guidance would be extremely helpful and appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Nigel]

I have a general question.
I bought rexing hard wiring kit (I went with that because it comes with angle/elbow USB connector), it has a fuse (15A) attached to the red wire.
Can I simply remove an existing fuse and install this there to get the power? Or do I have to use an empty slot?
Ground is readily available, there is a bolt that we can use.

At first I want to use a switched power, later I want to upgrade to constant on and use low voltage protector in between.
Any suggestion/guidance would be extremely helpful and appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

You can either replace a 15A fuse, or use an empty slot that is capable of supplying 15A.

 

[SjConnor]

Thank you Nigel. Cheers!
Can I use external battery for parking mode?
Instead of low voltage protection, can I just use a battery that's connected to switched power (like lighter port fuse), this way external battery can kick in if the camera needs to record something while car is parked, and when the car is running, switched fuse can charge the external battery?

 

[Nigel]

Thank you Nigel. Cheers!
Can I use external battery for parking mode?
Instead of low voltage protection, can I just use a battery that's connected to switched power (like lighter port fuse), this way external battery can kick in if the camera needs to record something while car is parked, and when the car is running, switched fuse can charge the external battery?

Yes, however if you are thinking of an external lead acid battery then you need a low voltage cutout device to avoid destroying the battery by over discharging it and also something that will limit the charge current so that you don't blow your fuses, and if you are thinking of a USB powerbank then note that they wont charge very much in the time of an average drive so unless you spend all day driving it may not prove very successful. Most people don't bother with external batteries.