Hardwiring DashCam Q - using fuse wire tap

dyel74

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Dash Cam
Blackvue DR600GW, DR3500FHD, Street Guardian SG9665GC
Hi guys,

I'm planning to hardwire my BlackVue600 into the passenger side fuse box in my Lexus IS250. I will be purchasing two of these fuse taps (add-a-fuse): http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SF5115

The fuse I'm planning to hook the 'always on' wire to is for the the powered seats, which is rated at 30A. For the ACC, I'm planning to hook it up the to cigarette lighter, which is rated at 15A.

My question is, if I were to purchase the fuse taps linked above, does it need to be rated the same ampere as the fuse it's piggybacking off? That is, would I need a 30A fuse tap and a 15A fuse tap?

Apologies if this is a nonsensical question, I'm completely new :)

Many thanks!
 
I've use 2 of those add-a-fuses in my cars and they work fine. Most modern fuse boxes have a few open spaces for accessories- some are always on and some are only on when the ignition is on (you'll have to figure out which ones they are as most owners manuals don't specify that). I would use those first (if you can) before tapping an existing circuit. If that's not possible then you would have to use a 30A and a 15A fuse. The add-a-fuse directions tell you which side of the tap is the original circuit (power seats) and which side is the accessory.
 
Thanks mate, will give it a go.

Just noticed there is no screw near the fuse box which I can use to ground the curcuit :(
 
yep, like i suggested in the link above that pier28 gave you.
and: don't touch the air-bag fuse.
 
The add-a-fuse may include an amp rating for the "second" fuse. Since your time exceeds the cost of materials, I suggest using 14 gauge wire that is good for 15 amps and using a fuse matched to your devices plus a few amps or next size up. I used 3-1/2 amps for my cam, garmin and cobra radar because it was handy and all work fine. I also suggest using loose 12v sockets with provided power cords secured by a few wraps of electrical tape. This powers and protects as intended by the manufacturer and reduces splices, especially since the wire in the provided cord is surprisingly thin and difficult to work. The 14 gauge wire makes crimp connections easier. I also suggest tapping an existing circuit fused larger than the added load.
 
The fuse I'm planning to hook the 'always on' wire to is for the the powered seats, which is rated at 30A. For the ACC, I'm planning to hook it up the to cigarette lighter, which is rated at 15A.

My question is, if I were to purchase the fuse taps linked above, does it need to be rated the same ampere as the fuse it's piggybacking off? That is, would I need a 30A fuse tap and a 15A fuse tap?

The fuse tap itself has to be rated to carry whatever amperage the typical car uses. You reuse the original fuses for the "main" circuit and then select appropriate fuses for the circuit you are adding. 2A or 3A seems to be the recommended fuse size for dashcams.

The link you reference has a picture that shows that this particular fuse tap is rated for 30A on the main circuit and 20A on the second circuit. The original fuse goes in the lower socket and the new fuse in the upper one.
 
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