Hardwiring with fuse tap, not enough power

WadeTheFade

New Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Country
United States
So I was good, and I read a bunch of threads here and am using, the best I can, the recommend way of hardwiring.
I am using this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00K17A2E6
with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00VLAEPJ0
I have a 2010 Subaru Legacy, which I found this image, which is exactly what I'm doing, except this guy used a different fuse type. Its using the Cigar 10A fuse:
fuse hatch removed DSCN1832.jpg


I've grounded the black wire down near the floor on a bolt that had a few other things grounded there, so I thought it was good.

So what is happening, is when I turn the keys to the ACC position, the SG9665GC v3 with the latest firmware begins to power on, but before it makes its boot sound, it just slowly fades out. I can plug it into the cigarette lighter power (that comes with the cam) and I'm piggy backing on and it will boot up just fine.

I've made sure I've put the fuses in the right spots via the diagram on Amazon...

I just not sure what is wrong (I hope its not the ground because that was a bitch)
 

Attachments

  • Capture.PNG
    Capture.PNG
    537.4 KB · Views: 16
Alright, I'll probably switch to somewhere else tomorrow and report back.
 
Also.
Did you try starting the engine?
(Not just turning the key to ACC)
You need to over come the kick start voltage at least once.
 
Also.
Did you try starting the engine?
(Not just turning the key to ACC)
You need to over come the kick start voltage at least once.

Not sure what all that means, but this was it. I was working in my garage with the doors shut so I never turned the engine over.

Drove to work and it kicked on as expected and when I got there I turned the engine off and now it turns on as I was expecting in the ACC position as well.

The more you know ~~~*

All set
IMG_20180131_083953.jpg
 
Not sure what all that means, but this was it. I was working in my garage with the doors shut so I never turned the engine over.

yeah the unit doesn't self calibrate until you start the car, sorry I should have mentioned that earlier
 
It appears, from your posts, that you have piggy backed on a fuse that supplies the air bag.

It is unwise to connect any accessory to a fuse that feeds any safety related component.

Why? If the connected accessory suffers a catastrophic failure resulting in the prime fuse blowing, you will lose power to the connected safety components.
 
Oh the highlighted fuse on that image is not of my indication. I pulled that off the net.

The fuse I tapped into is the 10A Cigar fuse shown in the actual picture of the tap.

Thanks for looking out. Wise words.
 
Just as an aside, when using a fuse tap like that, always make sure you know (by testing with a multimeter) which side of the fuse is the hot and cold side, and run the accessory wire of the fuse tap to the cold side, which may mean flipping the fuse tap into the opposite orientation. And the fuse nearest the fuse block (aka the “bottom” fuse) is for the original circuit while the circuit furthest from the fuse block (the “top” fuse) is the same or lower capacity fuse for the connected accessories.

Generally it will work without giving any thought to that kind of thing. Right up until it doesn’t. Fuses are there for a reason, and you don’t want to accidentally screw something up.
 
Back
Top