Help. Fried my dashboard front camera

Read fully what "jokiin" is saying.

Providing that the only thing connected to the camera is the output plug from the power supply you could not cause damage to the camera.

It looks very much like a fault with either the camera or PSU.

As far as the fuses are concerned, a fuse inserted into an external circuit is there to protect the cable following it. It is usually chosen so that some protection is also offered to devices connected to the cable, but if these devices need protection that should be supplied locally.

The rating printed on a fuse does not indicate the voltage supplied by it, only the rupturing value of the fuse.
As you were using an extra fuse in a piggy back type of holder this is the fuse that will protect your camera circuit.
Did this fuse break when all of this happened?

From what you have told us it looks like a fault with the camera, or more likely with the USB lead supplying the power to it.
See if there are any signs of burning at the connection into the camera and the connector at the end of the lead. You may find the camera is still working.

Once all this has been tried get in touch with the supplier and see what their response is.

Good luck.
 
Read fully what "jokiin" is saying.

Providing that the only thing connected to the camera is the output plug from the power supply you could not cause damage to the camera.

It looks very much like a fault with either the camera or PSU.

As far as the fuses are concerned, a fuse inserted into an external circuit is there to protect the cable following it. It is usually chosen so that some protection is also offered to devices connected to the cable, but if these devices need protection that should be supplied locally.

The rating printed on a fuse does not indicate the voltage supplied by it, only the rupturing value of the fuse.
As you were using an extra fuse in a piggy back type of holder this is the fuse that will protect your camera circuit.
Did this fuse break when all of this happened?

From what you have told us it looks like a fault with the camera, or more likely with the USB lead supplying the power to it.
See if there are any signs of burning at the connection into the camera and the connector at the end of the lead. You may find the camera is still working.

Once all this has been tried get in touch with the supplier and see what their response is.

Good luck.
Read fully what "jokiin" is saying.

Providing that the only thing connected to the camera is the output plug from the power supply you could not cause damage to the camera.

It looks very much like a fault with either the camera or PSU.

As far as the fuses are concerned, a fuse inserted into an external circuit is there to protect the cable following it. It is usually chosen so that some protection is also offered to devices connected to the cable, but if these devices need protection that should be supplied locally.

The rating printed on a fuse does not indicate the voltage supplied by it, only the rupturing value of the fuse.
As you were using an extra fuse in a piggy back type of holder this is the fuse that will protect your camera circuit.
Did this fuse break when all of this happened?

From what you have told us it looks like a fault with the camera, or more likely with the USB lead supplying the power to it.
See if there are any signs of burning at the connection into the camera and the connector at the end of the lead. You may find the camera is still working.

Once all this has been tried get in touch with the supplier and see what their response is.

Good luck.

The only thing that was connected to the camera was the output plug from the supply, specifically from the hardwire kit.

There was a snap sound and burnt smell though there wasn't any smoke. I can't really see any sign of burnt mark at the DC in hole or at the end of the connector. (Red and yellow). The burnt smell was still lingering around in the camera.

The 2 fuses which has a label of 15a I have used in the piggy fuse holder were intacted. It didn't break too.

Later I tried to power up the camera using the ciggy DC plug instead, but nothing was turned on.

Because this is my first time hardwiring a dash camera, and I was thinking I can't be that lucky to receive a faulty camera and I kept trying to understand what I had done incorrectly in wiring it up. :(
 
If it doesn't power up with the cig adaptor then it would lean towards it being a camera fault, talk to whoever you purchased it from about getting it replaced
 
You know what this sounds like to me, A faulty electrolytic capacitor, or connected the wrong way round.

All the clasic symptoms, a pop[bang] followed by a smell.

Only a stab in the dark, but possible.
 
My guess is that the wires were the wrong colours and although you connected up the correct colours it was actually connected up in reverse.
 
You know what this sounds like to me, A faulty electrolytic capacitor, or connected the wrong way round.

All the clasic symptoms, a pop[bang] followed by a smell.

Only a stab in the dark, but possible.

How did i connect the wrong way :(. i am using the hardwire kit with red, yellow and earth.

I am really desperate to know what had happened.
 
My guess is that the wires were the wrong colours and although you connected up the correct colours it was actually connected up in reverse.

Could be, but i have read some user has wired it incorrectly but doesn't blown up the camera.
 
Did you put fuses in the piggyback?

Yes, 15A. i was told i have used an over rated fuse. i should be using 2a or max 5a fuse for camera circuit. Do you reckon this was the reason i fried the camera?
 
I am really desperate to know what had happened.

The camera or the hardwire kit was faulty. There's no way of telling which, unless you have component level knowledge and can diagnose what blew.

Just get it replaced and test it using the 12v socket before hardwiring.
 
Yes, 15A. i was told i have used an over rated fuse. i should be using 2a or max 5a fuse for camera circuit. Do you reckon this was the reason i fried the camera?
You should probably use a 2A fuse, but it is impossible for the fuse to blow up the camera.
If the camera was working correctly then the only way to blow it up is either to give it too much voltage or reverse voltage. If it is a 12 volt camera and you give it more than about 16 volts then you might expect to get that crack sound and smoke, but it sounds like you have a normal 12-14 volt car? Some vehicles are 24 volts which could be the problem. It is also possible that your alternator has a fault and put out too much voltage but I would expect a 12v camera to be able to cope with more then than your light bulbs can so I think that is unlikely.

If you have a multi-meter, check what voltage you were getting across the black and red wires...
 
How did i connect the wrong way :(. i am using the hardwire kit with red, yellow and earth.

I am really desperate to know what had happened.

I meant that that an internal electrolytic capacitor had been inserted wrongly in manufacture.
Unlkely, but i can assure you that it can happen,
 
From what you have already said i can see nothing wrong with what you have done.

You should now contact the supplier and tell them you have a faulty camera that needs replacing.
 
hi NOTCOOL.... and hello and greetings to all, new member and glad to join. since I just ordered the kdlinks x1 dashcam , I decided to review the manual briefly for important pointers, one very important point they mentioned was a serious warning about frying your dashcam when starting your car. what they advice is to start you car first with your camera unplugged, then turn your cam on after , sorry, I know that wont help much for notcool but may be helpful to someone else.
 
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