how long will it stays awake on hardwire ?!

Bigmoon

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I`ve just bought this model and I am really really pleased with it but in my e 90 lci the battery is in the trunk so I had to use a longer cable with the hardwire version . Now on the hardwire version I have written : low voltage protrection or something like that, and from what I know its the option to turn the camera off after a discharge limit , but how long will it keep it on , and how cand I find what is the limit on that ?! thx a lot !
 
thx , this is my first post , but I was here a long time ago :D

back to my question ?:)
 
I am talking about the capacitor version , sry for not mentioning that in the first place :(
 
Oh , thx for the reply i have bought it from ebay uk , and it has a small unit attachet to it , tomorrow i will take a picture and show it to you ., Thx man !
 
This is the unit , hope it helps . Thx.
 

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if you wire that up to a permanent source the camera will keep running and it will power off when the battery hits 11.6v or thereabouts, at 11.6v it's unlikely your car will still start though so maybe you want to reconsider how you wire it up
 
thx a lot , and wow how prompt is that !!

I thought so and i use a cigarette source to power it up now . But thx for clearing it up for me !
 
no problem

if you wire that supply to an ignition switched source it will leave your cig socket free and no problems with flat batteries
 
i have a 3 series e90 lci ,and bmw `s are very sensitive about extra circuits , so there are only 2 options :

hardwire directly to the battery in the trunk , or one of the four internat cigarrets ports :) Thx again man , you are really helpfull !
 
if you hardwire to the battery you really want something with a timer circuit and a higher low voltage cutoff point
 
I think it would be best to wire it up to head unit remote wire, this way the camera will power when accessories/stereo are turned on.

I'm waiting for my kit to come so i can do this.
 
I think it would be best to wire it up to head unit remote wire, this way the camera will power when accessories/stereo are turned on.

I'm waiting for my kit to come so i can do this.
Only problem with that is if someone ever turns off the stereo the cameras go off too. If you'll be back there anyway, tap into the red key-switched ACC wire instead.
 
I'm leery of the kits. In general, they all take 12 volts and turn it into 5 volts, but how good a job they do may affect the dashcam. My second unit, now relegated to rental car use, has a proprietary cord and just plain doesn't like anything different.

I prefer using a loose 12V socket and the cord provided with the dashcam. This powers and protects as intended by the manufacturer and avoids a mismatch.

I had tapped the overhead console light, but found the car uses both the hot and ground to control it. That's when I ran to the fuse box with an add-a-fuse connector. This piggybacks on an existing circuit without splicing or otherwise. You can select a circuit always powered or powered with the ignition and change your mind later. Believe it or not, a good ground is often more difficult to find.

When I let go of minimizing wire length, I found the easiest part is hiding the wires behind finishes. A soft plastic spatula or similar easily pushes behind trim, headliners and dash edges. A little time on the internet easily reveals the right way to remove under dash panels and a wire tie will keep a loose 12v socket from rattling.

One manufacturer provides a cord that connects to the OBDII and captures diagnostics. I didn't think much about it until I saw with a flip you can switch from ignition controlled to always on. I suspect you may find similar third party connector for accessory power.

As to how long and battery drain, if you find the dashcam drains the battery, I suspect its a symptom of a bigger and unrelated electrical issue.

Hope this helps and please keep us posted.
 
Only problem with that is if someone ever turns off the stereo the cameras go off too. If you'll be back there anyway, tap into the red key-switched ACC wire instead.
It's a simple fix, dont turn off your stereo. It's not a problem for me my stereo is always on
 
just because you turn your radio off won't stop that feed being available
No, that's the whole point of the 'remote' lead from a stereo - it only provides power when the stereo is on.

Other problem though is it's only enough power to trigger a relay to turn on an amplifier. It probably isn't enough current to power a dash cam and could damage the head unit when the cam tries to draw any serious current.

Again I say if you really want to get power from behind the stereo, use the acc lead from the car, not the remote or power antenna lead from the stereo since neither can provide enough power for even a single dash cam.
 
he needs to take power from the accessory switched wire, not the amp remote wire, that's a low output trigger only, it won't run the camera, I was assuming he meant the radio accessory feed and not an amp remote, a lot of OEM head units don't even have this anyway
 
he needs to take power from the accessory switched wire, not the amp remote wire, that's a low output trigger only, it won't run the camera, I was assuming he meant the radio accessory feed and not an amp remote, a lot of OEM head units don't even have this anyway

That's what i meant, once key is in the ignition, power will come on and stay until key is out.
 
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