i1000 / F70 / X6 720P Dual Lens DVR Dash Camera

I bought this camera on eBay.
when the card is full and a rewrite is needed, the footage freezes for about 20 seconds, same issues as described here: http://dashcamtalk.com/k6000/#Camera_Hangs_Twitches with the k6000.

and yes I'm using a class 10 card. switched between a few to make sure it's not the card and formatted each one before use.

I will not detach the rear cam because that is the reason I bought it.
 
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I bought 2 of these a year ago from eBay. On the boxes was a label www.eachbuyer.com.

The mounting concept is great and discreet, tucked behind the rear view mirror on the black windscreen surround.

Both generally work OK, although I have replaced both internal batteries/capacitors with Supercaps from Maplins - made no difference - they still shut off immediately when power is removed.

The rear camera cable is not shielded. Initially it caused interference with my FM/DAB aerial. I simply rerouted the rear camera cable away from the antenna to cure.

I use 32GB C10 cards. The problem I have is one of failing cards. I had 2 Sandisk cards go down, but admittedly I believe they had a bad batch and they have a lifetime warranty.
Recently though I have just had a Samsung card go down.

The cameras will work fine, looping the recordings (about 24 hours worth with 32GB) , but sometimes they stop recording but you don't know it. Only interrogating the card can you tell. Performing a reset tends to get them going again.
I am experimenting using the remote control to playback in situ to ensure the latest footage is recorded.

Apart from the failing cards, the unit does get very hot, especially when parked up in sunshine. I leave mine running 24/7 so long as I drive the car each day; the camera will flatten my car battery in 3 days if left on but no driving.
 
Hi all
At the end my F70 was dying just after 1 minute from engine start, so I decided to open it and cut the (useless) IR LEDS cable inside the front camera to save some power and extend the internal battery life.
During this operation I was able to verify that johndragonman tells the truth on his video

,

that is the F70 doesn't charge well its internal battery due to the poor design of the 12-to-5V adapter, too much voltage drop under heavy load (also the long cable has its own guilt in this).
Indeed on my F70 the charge blinking led was on very seldom, but using a bench power supply everything went well and battery lasted very long (expecially with the IR LED cutted off).
So I'm going to substitute the adapter with a better one, maybe placed near the DVR, using a long cable to bring the bare 12V there, stolen frome the fuse box with the right accessory and freeing the cigarette lighter.

Unfortunately after reassembling the DVR menus are EMPTY ! All the items description went away and I'm unable to set it the right way:

DSC_0064.jpg

I tried several times to rest the DVR but nothing change :-(

Any ideas ?
 
Jassi450 said:
I bought this camera on eBay.
when the card is full and a rewrite is needed, the footage freezes for about 20 seconds, same issues as described here: http://dashcamtalk.com/k6000/#Camera_Hangs_Twitches with the k6000.

and yes I'm using a class 10 card. switched between a few to make sure it's not the card and formatted each one before use.

I will not detach the rear cam because that is the reason I bought it.
Click to expand...

Winco said:
I bought 2 of these a year ago from eBay. On the boxes was a label www.eachbuyer.com.

The mounting concept is great and discreet, tucked behind the rear view mirror on the black windscreen surround.

Both generally work OK, although I have replaced both internal batteries/capacitors with Supercaps from Maplins - made no difference - they still shut off immediately when power is removed.

The rear camera cable is not shielded. Initially it caused interference with my FM/DAB aerial. I simply rerouted the rear camera cable away from the antenna to cure.

I use 32GB C10 cards. The problem I have is one of failing cards. I had 2 Sandisk cards go down, but admittedly I believe they had a bad batch and they have a lifetime warranty.
Recently though I have just had a Samsung card go down.

The cameras will work fine, looping the recordings (about 24 hours worth with 32GB) , but sometimes they stop recording but you don't know it. Only interrogating the card can you tell. Performing a reset tends to get them going again.
I am experimenting using the remote control to playback in situ to ensure the latest footage is recorded.

Apart from the failing cards, the unit does get very hot, especially when parked up in sunshine. I leave mine running 24/7 so long as I drive the car each day; the camera will flatten my car battery in 3 days if left on but no driving.
Click to expand...

There are some comments around the web - I believe someone commented on here- about lower class cards being much better at performing multiple read/write at the same time.
Up to reading that, I used a class 10 - and kept getting fails.
Turning off the g-sensor improved results no end - think about it, the dvr is recording front and rear clips at the same time, g-sensor kicks in and suddenly, the machine now has to save 4 identical clips and lock 2 of them... how good are you at multi-tasking? :eek:
Since changing to a class 6 card, happy to say I haven't had any problems whatsoever.
I guess I'm lucky in that my car has a parcel shelf above the windscreen, my cam is screwed to this surface, so the body of the dvr is horizontal and the lens is swivelled round.
It's actually quite good for hiding the cam as well since the public are presented with minimal aspect, all they could see (if they looked closely) is the lens and thick end of the 'base'.
 
I bought one of these and I have been having trouble with it turning off by itself while driving. While driving, it will turn off seemingly with no reason. Hit a bump? Still on. Deceleration? Camera still on. Not sure what is triggering it to turn off, the power cable indicator is always red.

When I took it out and just plugged it into usb, it recorded for hours without turning off randomly.

I checked all the settings on the camera and nothing seems out of place to make it turn off..

Anyone know what it could be?
 
Just guessing...
if you are using the same cable as when connected to the PC: try to shake the cable when connected to your PC. May be the cable is faulty and due to the car movement the behavior is different than while still laying on a table.
Also how did you connect the power to the cam? Hard-wired or with a plug in the cigarettes lighter/12V connector?
If not hard-wired check if the plug is sitting tight. I have had once a plug which was barely fitting the jack, as soon as starting the engine and driving a few meters the plug looses contact. I could see this only by checking the power LED, it was not really visible when looking only at the plug.

Anyhow: if the red power LED is on all the time it means that the internal battery is not fully charged (it is so in my i1000/F70 model). If I connect the cam to the PC and wait for some 2 or 3 hours the red light went off, battery is full.
When in the car it is the same when I use only the provided power cord. In the meantime I used the cam as a rear cam and I extended the power cord (original was to short), now the red light went never off when driving, I guess the resistance of the extended power cord is responsible for that, may the the voltage for charging is to low.

So if the red light is always on, even after hours of uninterrupted usage, check the voltage output at the USB plug.

Regards
 
I just got one of these a few days ago and have had nothing but trouble with it from the very start. I am certain it is just "one of the bad ones."
I powered it up and got the welcome splash. And that is all I can get on vehicle power. Resetting just returns to the welcome splash. If I remove the usb it stays on the welcome splash until the battery runs out.
Interestingly, when connected to the computer I got the three option menu and could toggle up and down between them, and use the remote to turn the power off. I could also access the SD card. But the camera option just showed black.
The next day I had it work perfectly while connected to my laptop. I had a camera image and the menu. I set a few options. It recorded a few minutes of video. In all it was running fine for about 15 minutes.
That afternoon, it was back to not working. I only had a welcome splash on the car adapter, and could only get the menu on the computer to show the file contents of the SD card, and the camera option just shows black.
Even when running on battery alone and switched with the on button, the camera just shows black and nothing is recorded on the SD card. It will stay stuck on the black (though backlight is on) screen until the battery runs out or it is forced off with a long press of the power button.
Really wish I could do something with the firmware or find some kind of reset option besides the reset button. I opened the case and it does have the F20 chip. So far I haven't found anything useful for getting it to actually work again.
I tried several different SD cards thinking one might work, but to no avail.
If anyone has any suggestions I'm open.

Thanks.
 
Turn the g-sensor off (might be called something else) and try without the rear cam, those are two common issues with this model
 
jokiin said:
Turn the g-sensor off (might be called something else) and try without the rear cam, those are two common issues with this model
Click to expand...

For the 15 minutes it was in operation the back cam was not plugged in. I have plugged it in and still have no image on screen and nothing recorded.
As for turning off the g-sensor -- I would try that except I can't access any menu options. Just have the welcome splash or a black screen. Thanks, though.
 
FSC830 said:
Just guessing...
if you are using the same cable as when connected to the PC: try to shake the cable when connected to your PC. May be the cable is faulty and due to the car movement the behavior is different than while still laying on a table.
Also how did you connect the power to the cam? Hard-wired or with a plug in the cigarettes lighter/12V connector?
If not hard-wired check if the plug is sitting tight. I have had once a plug which was barely fitting the jack, as soon as starting the engine and driving a few meters the plug looses contact. I could see this only by checking the power LED, it was not really visible when looking only at the plug.

Anyhow: if the red power LED is on all the time it means that the internal battery is not fully charged (it is so in my i1000/F70 model). If I connect the cam to the PC and wait for some 2 or 3 hours the red light went off, battery is full.
When in the car it is the same when I use only the provided power cord. In the meantime I used the cam as a rear cam and I extended the power cord (original was to short), now the red light went never off when driving, I guess the resistance of the extended power cord is responsible for that, may the the voltage for charging is to low.

So if the red light is always on, even after hours of uninterrupted usage, check the voltage output at the USB plug.

Regards
Click to expand...

Hi FSC830,

I'm using a different cable when connecting to the PC, just a short usb cable.

I connected the power to the cam using the plug into the cigarette lighter/12V connector.

By the red LED I meant the red LED on the cigarette lighter/12V connector. The little red LED indicating there's power. I have a radar detector connected to another cigarette lighter/12V connector and it never gave me problems.

The internal battery does charge and will come to a complete charge but as others have mentioned, it is very weak and will not power the camera.

I just went out and turned it on and shook the camera and played with the wire and it didn't power off...very weird. My road is FULL of potholes and it won't shut off. The unit shuts off very randomly when driving, sometimes without hitting any bumps.

Let me know what else I can try or test, thanks for the help!
 
How good a fit is the plug into the socket?
I used to have no end of problems in my old bus, almost as though the power socket wasn't designed to have anything other than a lighter plugged in.
The plug I'm using connects to a 2 way splitter. I have a piece of plastic washer pushed into the metal -ve tabs on each side of the plug in order to keep it firm in the socket. A bit Heath Robinson but haven't had a problem since.
Also worth noting that most cams require a period of time to shutdown, if the plug/socket is loose enough to lose a connection, it might regain almost instantly - but this won't help the cam which will be trying to shut down after losing power AND try to come back after detecting power. This kind of confusion will simply crash the thing.
 
Hello everyone,
I've been think on buying this model (or look) of camera, due to the added bonus of the rear camera...
But I see just so many different variants of it. I've seen some 120 degree and 140 degree cameras, the video output between AVI and H.264 and even some places listing the non 2nd camera model..

Is there a trusted version of it where it is classed as the high end model (h.264 and rear camera) where the battery actually works well.
All I keep reading is that people get this camera from various places and it seems very Hit and Miss when it comes to quality.....I'd rather pay the extra to get the better version.
 
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jokiin said:
Look elsewhere I'd say, there's more misses than hits with this model, it's very problematic
Click to expand...
I concur.
I know loads of people who have this unit and are extremely happy with it - I also know of many who aren't.
I was so happy with mine that I bought another for the wife's car and one for each of my lads.
All work well apart from a problem with recording from the rear cam in just one of the units - so that now operates as a single cam.
 
I understand these are problematic and have been looking on Amazon and found one which is 'by JH' and seems ok according to reviews,
Anyone with a good experience of this camera and can show where they got it from?

looking for around 35£ (45-10voucher)
 
Yea, that what I'm afraid of. Still might be worth a punt in the hope... Battery life isn't really an issue as it will never leave the car (only the microSD would) so as long as it would have 'enough' to shut down properly as to not corrupt the last file then for the money I'm sure it would do....I kinda need something though as the Taxis and Boy/Girl racers where I live are a nightmare. :(
 
veloster27 said:
Hi FSC830,

...
Let me know what else I can try or test, thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Sorry to say, but best choice is to contact the reseller for a replacement or any other new camera. I agree with jokiin and sludeguts ;). There are so many different types for this model, some are working well, others not. Its hard to say which one is reliable and which one not.
I wouldnt buy this model for myself again, even I dont have big trouble with the cam. Thats also I adress to Mathius, save your money and buy a Full HD cam. The video quality of the F70 is so poor, you will not get really fun with it.
The only advantage of this model is that the case is very slim and could be put to the windshield or ceiling (rear use) very close. Night or low-light videos are unusable.
If you dont take care about the video quality but for a slim installation than it could be a choice.
But in case of evidence the videos do not help you yery much...just my 2 cents about this cam...

Regards
 
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