Joovuu too hot? Watch this.

Dayum, that's a small fan! But any forced airflow can make a big difference, especially when the heat source is where a pocket of trapped air can form.
 
What is the audio quality like? :confused:
 
hehe i am sure dirk have the microphone disabled.
 
It cost me 4 bucks for 3 (!) on AE...... Just cut a USB connector from a non used USB cable, take your soldering iron, and off you go....

What surprising is, that there are no vent holes on the top of the camera, since the hot air goes up by nature...

Anyway, it was just a gag to see if it worked, but it's not as effective as I hoped for.... It does cool, but not massive. I have more success with the Foxeer Legend 2, where I placed it on top of the vent holes on the top of it. That one is an ice pick...
 
What surprising is, that there are no vent holes on the top of the camera, since the hot air goes up by nature...
You can solve that by placing a chimney over the side vents, if you can make it 10cm or more tall and restrict the size of the top a little so that it fills up with warm low density air then it should work quite well to suck air through the camera even without the fan...
 
Not yet but it is Movember soon, and i really do hate to shave just like i also hate to have long hair in my face, so in stuck between a sharp thing and a hairy face.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Movember

mow2_big_thumb.jpg


O i also need a haircut soon, i look like a bloody hippie. ( old pic )
 
You can solve that by placing a chimney over the side vents, if you can make it 10cm or more tall and restrict the size of the top a little so that it fills up with warm low density air then it should work quite well to suck air through the camera even without the fan...
That might work if you have one chimney pointing up (for warm air to go out) and one pointing down (for cold air to come in.) Or just a chimney on one side.
Strong emphasis on might. I think the restriction would cause more harm than good. Possibly worth testing though.

I had an idea for PC heatsinks that I never got round to testing. If you point an ultrasonic transducer at a heatsink, it will move air backwards and forwards rapidly over the surface. That might improve conduction of heat from the surface to the air since fresh molecules are constantly being put in contact. Again - might!
 
Im afraid that CPU cooler would go the same way as the Danish Danamics LMX Superleggera cooler.
 
That might work if you have one chimney pointing up (for warm air to go out) and one pointing down (for cold air to come in.) Or just a chimney on one side.
Strong emphasis on might. I think the restriction would cause more harm than good. Possibly worth testing though.

I had an idea for PC heatsinks that I never got round to testing. If you point an ultrasonic transducer at a heatsink, it will move air backwards and forwards rapidly over the surface. That might improve conduction of heat from the surface to the air since fresh molecules are constantly being put in contact. Again - might!
You can get your ultrasonic transducer to actually pump if you arrange it right:
http://www.murata.com/en-sg/products/mechatronics/fluid/feature
http://www.murata.com/en-sg/products/mechatronics/fluid/demo
 
I Will take that emerging tech as a indication of my ideas that wifi is not good and unsafe, hell im not even happy about using a damn phone.
Not even if Huawei is in charge of most of the Danish Cellphone infrastructure.
 
OMG what have I done..... I was just goofing around.

I actually might drill some holes in the top of the housing.....

Who's with me??!!

Piece.

trucker-smiley.gif
 
I'd be wary of ultrasonic vibration and electronics which could loosen weak solder joints in time. Thermal chimneys aren't very efficient until they are very tall so lacking a fan I'd leave any un-tuned ducting off. Passive air-cooling does pretty good as long as there's means for air to move in and out so the side openings on the "X" cam are a good idea in that regard, but they can admit contaminants inside the cam and a layer of dust or dirt insulates the part you're wanting to cool reducing heat transfer considerably. I like that idea compared to the usual closed-body cam anyway. I laugh at some of the crazy-looking CPU heat-sinks I've seen- the principles of air cooling have long been known and fully developed, making it clear that the designer had tunnel-vision and forgot some of those principles. It's not only about maximizing surface area- it's also about having enough mass to allow the heat to transfer to the finning. Those spiky-looking ones may have a lot of surface area but there's not much thermal path so they become self-limiting. Plain finning gives more thermal path and can actually extract heat faster as long as it can shed the heat it accumulates- that's why it's ubiquitous on motorcycle engines. It also allows better control of airflow. Mass also plays a role; a simple mass will extract heat until it's saturated and then it becomes a liability as it maintains that high temperature till it cools. Simple finning has a good balance between mass and surface area, which is why it's so often seen and used, especially where there's an active airflow being used. Liquid cooling can be far more effective but you still have to shed the accumulated heat and now that you have more heat to shed, you need even more air-cooling to get rid of it. A heat-sinked cam in a closed car in the summer will acquire the ambient air heat actually reducing the initial cooling the cam gets when you open the car to start driving until it can shed that accumulated heat.

So what seems so simple turns out to be very complex once you factor in all the different aspects involved, and we haven't even touched on manufacturing costs and aesthetics :p The end point is this: As long as the cam isn't experiencing any detrimental effects from the heat there's no need to enhance it's cooling. Yes, the cams get very warm in operation but the good ones are designed to work just fine that way so higher surface temperatures alone do not indicate a need for more cooling.

If it ain't broke there's no need to fix it ;)
Phil
 
True, but the warmer electronics run, the sooner they fail. They don't have to be hot to the touch for this to come into play.

On the other hand you don't want to obsess about temperature so much that you spend more time and money preventing a failure than it would cost to replace the failed item. And have an oversized, ugly setup to boot.

Edit> That wasn't a comment about the OP's setup. I'm still amazed you can get a fan that small.
 
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True, but the warmer electronics run, the sooner they fail. They don't have to be hot to the touch for this to come into play.

I understand that- many Ham radios now have fan cooling and would fry without it- but today's good components are far more heat-tolerant than you'd think. There remains an issue with lower-quality components which most cams and other common electronic devices use. Part of this relates to the purity of the substances the components are made of and in the cleanliness of assembly. Now that this is better understood and handled, the components can tolerate more heat than before. But there's still a limit and those of us with high summer heat are pushing that limit with our dashcams. One of the design considerations with the "X" cam was heat and it was tested at higher temps than most of it's contemporaries. So even though it feels hotter I don't think that directly transfers to shorter component life than the other cams. And it begs the question of exactly how much lifespan is lost to heat and whether that is enough to be concerned about, which is a tough question to answer. It it's a few days I couldn't care less but if that is several months then I'd be concerned about it and acting on it.

Have we heard of any failures which could be reasonably attributed to heat yet with the "X" cam? I know that has happened with others. I've experienced operating problems with a G1Wc and heat when it was mounted in the direct sun which indicates that the components were being damaged but I haven't heard of that here. That's usually the first symptom. We see a lot of heat-related focus shift with some cams that's usually due to a non-electronic component (lens mount housing) so that may not be damaging the electronics and all alone it doesn't indicate other problems.

Yes, cooler is better but it may not matter enough to bother with and only side-by-side testing between several examples of cooled and uncooled cams could tell us with any certainty. Fun to play with and interesting to see the different approaches used regardless, just not sure it's accomplishing much ;)

Phil
 
I don't think the JooVuu gets TOO hot in normal use, even in a hot car in summer, but of course forced cooling with a fan in a hot car in summertime would cause a hot air flow.....

But it's my understanding that an object will get cooler even if the air flow has the same temperature.... Something about thermo dynamics?
 
Yes, but is it needed and is it worth the effort? That is the point I'm trying to make.

Phil
 
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