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OK, so I have been looking at the pros and cons of this camera. One requirement I have is parking mode.

A drawback of this cam seemed to be that it doesn't have supercaps and the internal battery if left inside could either expand, damage the DVR unit, cause a fire in the vehicle, or otherwise start WWIII...

My question is, has anyone tried using this dash cam without a battery (and without any DIY supercap modification) but just connected to a Cellink to feed power to the unit and operate it (1) while driving and (2) while parked (long term parking, as in parked overnight)? Did it work? Was it practical? I want a set-it-and-forget-it solution. t/u
 

deegeedc

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I was looking into installing something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CHYKOD0
Taking out the battery and having one end into the k1s and the other hardwired to a switched fuse but this unit only supplies 1a and I think the k1s requires 2a or 2.1a
 
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I was looking into installing something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CHYKOD0
Taking out the battery and having one end into the k1s and the other hardwired to a switched fuse but this unit only supplies 1a and I think the k1s requires 2a or 2.1a

IF (a big IF) it was electrically appropriate/compatible, how would that LUKAS LK-530-12V be better than a Cellink B?
 

BlackboxMyCar

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I don't think K1S would require 2/2.1A but I really wouldn't bother with it if you're looking for a parking mode device.
You would have to manually set it every time you park and turn it off when you start driving again, hardly a set it and forget it solution.
 
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I don't think K1S would require 2/2.1A but I really wouldn't bother with it if you're looking for a parking mode device.
You would have to manually set it every time you park and turn it off when you start driving again, hardly a set it and forget it solution.

Set-and-forget means the lens are discreet enough that you can set it and don't need to worry about removing them from the car every time you park.

But discreetness is not the only feature that makes the K1S unique. I have been doing my own research, and here is what I have found: This is the only discreet 2-channel dash cam that also gives you (a) remote DVR, b) 140° FoV angle in both cams, and 160° FoV diagonal in both cams, c) an external gps option, d) manual on-the-fly file locking, e) easy-to-hide screen, f) 1080p video on both cams, g) operational temps from -10°C to 60°C (14°F to 140°F), h) 30fps recording on both cams, i) runs without a battery or capacitor, j) dual video streams built in realtime and without need of external software, k) menu-selectable speed blocker and user-adjustable speed cutoff points, l) a splitter cable to connect video to car's built-in DVD, these in addition to (m) 128 GB uSD support, n) no gaps between segments, o) a local distributor and authorized reseller in the USA, p) non prebuffered, g-sensor parking mode, q) very good reliability, r) g-sensor to save last file in case of crash, s) H.264 support, t) no annoying nighttime IR lights nor dead-giveaway illuminating LCDs nor eye-catching security LEDs on the cams, u) replaceable (i.e., not built-in) battery, v) VBR, w) seamless transitions driving-to-pkg modes, x) finger-friendly menu buttons (great for men), y) good nighttime video quality and sharp nighttime video, z) long 20' rear cable, aa) made by a company focused on making high end dash cams, and bb) you can view 1 cam, both cams side-by-side, or no cams in video screen. In addition it appears to make use of a 3D G-sensor; I am still investigating that. True, the cam may require a manual set when you want to engage/disengage the parking mode but, if you want to be safe, you also have to manually set your parking brake every time you park and disengage it when you start driving again, so I don't think that manually activating/deactivating the cam is a major problem to most drivers.
 

deegeedc

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The cellink b is of course better but the price is almost as much as the k1s itself, and the Manuel says that if using external power to make sure it's 2a output.
 
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The cellink b is of course better but the price is almost as much as the k1s itself, and the Manuel says that if using external power to make sure it's 2a output.

you meant "make sure it's 2a input", right?
 

micro

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You can, i believe, supply 5v to the PC usb port and that will power the camera externally - you could try that without the battery.
 
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