Mini 0806 opened up

The collector

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I replaced my battery yesterday due to ad hoc recording issues. The previous threads on this site made it possible, I thought I would post a couple of photos which show the unit opened up.

This one shows the unit part dismantled before the circuit boards are separated. You can see four screws, the spring and the small ball bearing that sits on it to create the clicking effect when the outer ring is turned. To remove the outer ring in the first place there are two key areas to focus on and these are shown at the 12 and 6 o' clock position on the ring.

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The next picture shows the boards separated along with the battery. To separate the boards I used a flat piece of plastic the size of a small screw driver. I inserted it between the slot where the pins are located and twisted it gently along each of the three sets of pins. This pushed them apart rather than pulling which could damage the boards.

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The unit is working well at this time but too early to say if the problem is solved. There are many other threads on here with more pictures, I have just posted a couple which may be of help when searching.
 
I'm wondering if the camera will work without the battery(like the vicovation cameras).
Many problems seem to be battery related, and the battery is useless anyway.

Maybe a new firmware version that disables battery check and fixes all the other issues ?
Ahh, one can only dream :)
 
I'm wondering if the camera will work without the battery(like the vicovation cameras).
Many problems seem to be battery related, and the battery is useless anyway.

Maybe a new firmware version that disables battery check and fixes all the other issues ?
Ahh, one can only dream :)
Even if it works, it'll corrupt last file as it needs at least 4-5 seconds power to properly save and shut down.
 
Even if it works, it'll corrupt last file as it needs at least 4-5 seconds power to properly save and shut down.
What if you have constant power running to the camera! I replaced my battery today because I had initially with that overheating in the battery would cause the camera stop recording what I was wondering is if you delete the battery and have constant power running in the car it shouldn't matter correct and then that would aluminate all the issues?
 
Should work if you connect power directly but I thought the batteries are 3.7v instead of 5v from the adapter.
Should work though.
Maybe others can chime in.
 
Hi and thanks for response. I have stuff on order and once it arrives it is my intention to wire the whole thing up to a 12 Volt, 7 amp/hr battery, charged from the cigar lighter outlet. On trying this, I already hit one problem - which was that the charging current started to melt my thin wires and 2 amp switched plug. I have now ordered a 25 amp plug to go into the cigar lighter socket. From what I know about failing batteries, it is that they constantly discharge and leak the current back. As one is constantly trying to charge this leaking battery, heat is produced. A small amount of heat during the winter months will actually be a good thing it will actually prevent the temperature of the device falling below zero degrees. If the current leakage of the battery continues to increase and the ambient temperature in the surrounding area rises then there is a potential problem. It is quite startling when one thinks about it; we know that batteries don't last and they can give immense problems so why the hell didn't they just install supercapacitors from day one, I do not know.
 
I have used mine without the battery Ok. Things to note - as above, don't just disconnect power to it, do a manual power off via the button before removing power. Saved settings can be lost after removing power (date / time are probably important to keep), default settings are likely to be used on next power on. Still waiting for my supercaps to arrive via Ebay to test these in place of the LiPo. As a backup in case the supercaps are a lost cause, ordered a LiFePo4 battery in place of the LiPo. I know the LiFePo4 batteries are 3.2v as opposed to the 3.7v original, I will probably have to add something to reduce charge voltage a bit.
 
As well as providing power when away from a power source, internal batteries also act to smooth and regulate voltage when external power is applied.
(Super) capacitors can also smooth voltage but won't limit it.
Perhaps a third option would be to omit both. If a dashcam were to commit data to storage frequently enough you wouldn't need to fix the lost data problem because it wouldn't be there in the first place except maybe a fraction of a second.

Personally I'd prefer a reliable battery that guarantees to keep recording for a while after an accident (some vehicles turn off power in a crash, as do many drivers.) And since I'm in the cold UK, I'll be sticking with batteries.
 
Perhaps a third option would be to omit both. If a dashcam were to commit data to storage frequently enough you wouldn't need to fix the lost data problem because it wouldn't be there in the first place except maybe a fraction of a second.

Without an orderly shutdown of the camera processor and logic, anything could happen, not just limited to the last file being written to IMO. As soon as I get these elusive supercaps and LiFePo4 battery (on a slow boat from China), I can do some testing.
 
if you have strong DIY skill, you can install an super capacitor 5V 5F out of the housing, or a 5V 2.5F one inside the housing.
5V 5F support 8 seconds recording after power cut off, 5V 2.5F is exactly for a normal shut down.
 
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