Mobius 5MP Varifocal Zoom 6-22mm ƒ/1.6

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Dashmellow

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ANYWAYS ,, on my 5.0 MP Varifocal 6-22 mm Lens I bought a 30 - 28 mm step down ring and put just a little 2 component epoxy on the indent at the end of the lens with a tooth pick then
fit the step down ring over the indent and it fit perfectly and on the outside spread a light layer of epoxy over where the ring fit over the indent so just a bit was on the lens making a more secure
fit when it cured and was dry ,, once dry I screwed the CPL filter on and Woopy - D everything was nice and tight and can turn the filter nicely and or take it off whatever you wanted ,, still in the
process of putting together a 3 in. 12 volt monitor for the dash to focus the lens but generally like it where it is but have 2 cameras and will use the filter for the other one ,, just play toys .


That's very similar to the method I used to install my CPL. The smallest size you can get the Hoya HD CPL in is 37mm so in my install I used a 28-37mm step up ring. I used UV curing cement to attach the ring because it can be easily removed in case I decide I no longer want to use the ring.

One thing I did which has proved very handy is that once I dialed in the CPL properly I marked the lens so that I can easily "re-tune" the filter if it ever gets turned out of place accidentally. (which has happened)

step-up.jpg
 

Chucker

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That's very similar to the method I used to install my CPL. The smallest size you can get the Hoya HD CPL in is 37mm so in my install I used a 28-37mm step up ring. I used UV curing cement to attach the ring because it can be easily removed in case I decide I no longer want to use the ring.

One thing I did which has proved very handy is that once I dialed in the CPL properly I marked the lens so that I can easily "re-tune" the filter if it ever gets turned out of place accidentally. (which has happened)

View attachment 50731
There are a couple ways to do it I guess ,, will have to mark filter once I get it set right so as you say to re-tune ,, then again will have a little monitor on dash for focus and tuning ,, gota see how far off on
focusing you have to be and how wide the widest on the lens looks ,, I like where this one is zoomed but going around corners is a bit fast so will try the other wide and have a look-see.
 
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There are a couple ways to do it I guess ,, will have to mark filter once I get it set right so as you say to re-tune ,, then again will have a little monitor on dash for focus and tuning ,, gota see how far off on
focusing you have to be and how wide the widest on the lens looks ,, I like where this one is zoomed but going around corners is a bit fast so will try the other wide and have a look-see.

I use a small 7 inch monitor and power bank for adjusting the CPL in my vehicle and also occasionally for focusing out in the field if I'm not using the camera as a dash cam. For critical focusing I get my best results using the camera in webcam mode on a 10 foot cable connected to my computer monitor while I focus out the window of my office at a tree about 100 feet out. Although it seems counterintuitive, after MUCH experimentation I found that focusing on the bark and branches of the tree 100 feet out from my window provides the absolute sharpest critical focus from directly in front of my vehicle and the deepest depth of field at mid and farther range for the focal length I usually set my lens to. The hyperfocal point appears to be just about a third of the way out between the nearest and farthest points of focus which is about where you would want it to be. If I focus on anything too close to the camera I seem to get unexpected and unwelcome depth of field results such as cars about ten feet in front of my vehicle being nice and sharp but traffic farther away being not at all as sharp as it has the potential to be.

I guess you can't have it both ways with a telephoto lens on a dash cam going around corners but with a "normal" dash cam used in concert with the telephoto it's not that much of a problem.

One nice feature of the Hoya HD CPL is that it comes with a little triangular mark on the adjusting ring so all you need to do is mark the lens itself at the proper adjustment point.

hoya.jpg
 
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Chucker

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I use a small 7 inch monitor and power bank for adjusting the CPL in my vehicle and also occasionally for focusing out in the field if I'm not using the camera as a dash cam. For critical focusing I get my best results using the camera in webcam mode on a 10 foot cable connected to my computer monitor while I focus out the window of my office at a tree about 100 feet out. Although it seems counterintuitive, after MUCH experimentation I found that focusing on the bark and branches of the tree 100 feet out from my window provides the absolute sharpest critical focus from directly in front of my vehicle and the deepest depth of field at mid and farther range for the focal length I usually set my lens to. The hyperfocal point appears to be just about a third of the way out between the nearest and farthest points of focus which is about where you would want it to be. If I focus on anything too close to the camera I seem to get unexpected and unwelcome depth of field results such as cars about ten feet in front of my vehicle being nice and sharp but traffic farther away being not at all as sharp as it has the potential to be.

I guess you can't have it both ways with a telephoto lens on a dash cam going around corners but with a "normal" dash cam used in concert with the telephoto it's not that much of a problem.

One nice feature of the Hoya HD CPL is that it comes with a little triangular mark on the adjusting ring so all you need to do is mark the lens itself at the proper adjustment point.

View attachment 50732
I've got a 5 in. Lilliput monitor but it's a little large for the car and the battery a bit heavy ,, 2 filters ,, Optex V-28 and Tiffen CIR ,, will give the tree bark focus a try cause I have a tree out my balcony
APT window at about a hundred feet ,, bought a couple elbows after seeing the ant and bird pictures so when out country side can play off tripod and have a piece made up for the monopod that
holds a power pack to power the camera and it works pretty good ,, the photo is my car and have a buck converter for the camera power supplies ,, the one on it there is the JVC and it has a battery
inside it and can turn it around.
 

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Chucker

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I've got a 5 in. Lilliput monitor but it's a little large for the car and the battery a bit heavy ,, 2 filters ,, Optex V-28 and Tiffen CIR ,, will give the tree bark focus a try cause I have a tree out my balcony
APT window at about a hundred feet ,, bought a couple elbows after seeing the ant and bird pictures so when out country side can play off tripod and have a piece made up for the monopod that
holds a power pack to power the camera and it works pretty good ,, the photo is my car and have a buck converter for the camera power supplies ,, the one on it there is the JVC and it has a battery
inside it and can turn it around.
Finally got the filter glued onto the lens so whenever the sun pops out can give it a try ,, gota mark the filter to be able to bring it back into place so maybe a sliver of black tape.
 

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That looks good. It's very similar to my filter install except that my filter is 37mm in diameter.

To mark the lens accurately I used a piece of rubberized black electrical tape cut into a long narrow triangle pointing exactly to the point of the triangular mark on the filter.

A further thought about focusing on a tree 100 feet away, be aware that the depth of field will vary with the focal length you have the lens zoomed at. Because the lens has a fixed aperture, it becomes a relative (variable) aperture depending on the amount of zoom you use. So, you may still have some trial and error until you get the focus exactly as you want it.
 

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That looks good. It's very similar to my filter install except that my filter is 37mm in diameter.

To mark the lens accurately I used a piece of rubberized black electrical tape cut into a long narrow triangle pointing exactly to the point of the triangular mark on the filter.

A further thought about focusing on a tree 100 feet away, be aware that the depth of field will vary with the focal length you have the lens zoomed at. Because the lens has a fixed aperture, it becomes a relative (variable) aperture depending on the amount of zoom you use. So, you may still have some trial and error until you get the focus exactly as you want it.
Yes and it was very easy to do and strong once the epoxy cured ,, I let the epoxy set a bit before putting any on the lens cause it won't drip or sag ,, now Just need
some sunny days to try it out ,, my balcony faces our parking lot as well so will have many objects to focus on ,, would not have bought the first 808 micro and on
to the larger Mobius unless there were some DIY projects to do on them ,, hard to believe the quality of camera and lenses and cost you get ,, mind you everything
is on a programmed chip now and done by a robot but still pretty nice play toys.
 

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Yes and it was very easy to do and strong once the epoxy cured ,, I let the epoxy set a bit before putting any on the lens cause it won't drip or sag ,, now Just need
some sunny days to try it out ,, my balcony faces our parking lot as well so will have many objects to focus on ,, would not have bought the first 808 micro and on
to the larger Mobius unless there were some DIY projects to do on them ,, hard to believe the quality of camera and lenses and cost you get ,, mind you everything
is on a programmed chip now and done by a robot but still pretty nice play toys.

Well again for some reason messing around I touched the filter when the lens was off the camera and it left a smudge on the filter ,, just a little dark spot SOOO
apart it came again and cleaned it good and put it back on and re-focussed it ,, gunna wait till dark night for the focusing on a light to get that tiny bit that,s
difficult in bright daylight and use a tiny screw driver to tighten the focus screw !!!! that weeny weeny bit matters.
 

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Last night I was using my M1 with 6-22mm to observe the inside of my wife's glass kiln at 800degC (more on that project later). One of the most surprising things is that there is an overlay (or underlay?) of a PCB on any photo or video that we recorded, which I do not think I have ever seen before on a Mobius, or any other camera.

I got the same PCB impression on another M1 with 6-22, this time with the IR-cut filter removed. I could not replicate the effect with any other light source, even pointing the camera directly at a light bulb.

Any idea what might be causing this? Is this an imprint of the PCB behind the sensor?!

1583314946655.png
 
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Chucker

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Last night I was using my M1 with 6-22mm to observe the inside of my wife's glass kiln at 800degC (more on that project later). One of the most surprising things is that there is an overlay (or underlay?) of a PCB on any photo or video that we recorded, which I do not think I have ever seen before on a Mobius, or any other camera.

I got the same PCB impression on another M1 with 6-22, this time with the IR-cut filter removed. I could not replicate the effect with any other light source, even pointing the camera directly at a light bulb.

Any idea what might be causing this? Is this an imprint of the PCB behind the sensor?!

View attachment 50766
Last night I was using my M1 with 6-22mm to observe the inside of my wife's glass kiln at 800degC (more on that project later). One of the most surprising things is that there is an overlay (or underlay?) of a PCB on any photo or video that we recorded, which I do not think I have ever seen before on a Mobius, or any other camera.

I got the same PCB impression on another M1 with 6-22, this time with the IR-cut filter removed. I could not replicate the effect with any other light source, even pointing the camera directly at a light bulb.

Any idea what might be causing this? Is this an imprint of the PCB behind the sensor?!

View attachment 50766
How are you getting to see this ?? and explain what you mean by PCB ,
 

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How are you getting to see this ?? and explain what you mean by PCB ,
The M1 is on a tripod, aimed to look into a viewing hole in the side of the kiln. It is connected to a laptop in webcam mode to enable safe viewing of the kiln interior, by opening the flap for a few seconds. The recorded image is a still frame from the laptop webcam app.
1583343011423.png

PCB = Printed Circuit Board
The sensor is mounted to a PCB on the back of the lens module
1583343735100.png
 

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The M1 is on a tripod, aimed to look into a viewing hole in the side of the kiln. It is connected to a laptop in webcam mode to enable safe viewing of the kiln interior, by opening the flap for a few seconds. The recorded image is a still frame from the laptop webcam app.
View attachment 50770

PCB = Printed Circuit Board
The sensor is mounted to a PCB on the back of the lens module
View attachment 50772
Guess I'm wondering how your seeing through the Sensor and copper to get a view of the PC board ,,
 

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Guess I'm wondering how your seeing through the Sensor and copper to get a view of the PC board ,,
I'm not sure what I'm seeing, only that it looks like a PCB.
 

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I'm not sure what I'm seeing, only that it looks like a PCB.

Have made up hundreds of PC Boards old school way right from the Positive film and multi layer ,, not sure of how Sensor matter is applied so could be wrong in my thinking ,, am only 81 years old
so you can see how far I go back specially with DIY stuff .
 
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Last night I was using my M1 with 6-22mm to observe the inside of my wife's glass kiln at 800degC (more on that project later). One of the most surprising things is that there is an overlay (or underlay?) of a PCB on any photo or video that we recorded, which I do not think I have ever seen before on a Mobius, or any other camera.

I got the same PCB impression on another M1 with 6-22, this time with the IR-cut filter removed. I could not replicate the effect with any other light source, even pointing the camera directly at a light bulb.

Any idea what might be causing this? Is this an imprint of the PCB behind the sensor?!

View attachment 50766

Did you remove the IR-cut filter? The magenta cast makes it look as if you did.

Also, why not try some full rez, in-camera footage instead of 720p web cam footage? Perhaps the weird effect you are seeing will become more evident and you'll be able to better analyze what it is you are seeing?
 

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Did you remove the IR-cut filter? The magenta cast makes it look as if you did.

Also, why not try some full rez, in-camera footage instead of 720p web cam footage? Perhaps the weird effect you are seeing will become more evident and you'll be able to better analyze what it is you are seeing?
No that camera still has the IR-cut filter. I suspect the magenta colour comes from the heating elements glowing inside the kiln, since there's no other light source.

During the cool-down phase at around 700degC, when the heating elements were turned off, the two cameras recorded these images. I think the only 'light' comes from the hot glass & kiln glowing.

1583403388247.png
1583403366377.png

The primary purpose of my camera setup is to support my wife's hobby, so she can monitor what's going on inside. Webcam mode is just fine for this. She needs to see a live view to know when to stop heating for certain projects where timing is critical - such as melting the glass into a bowl shape.

I may try some full-resolution in-camera footage next time, in-between her webcam observations.
 
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No that camera still has the IR-cut filter. I suspect the magenta colour comes from the heating elements glowing inside the kiln, since there's no other light source.

This is the view from the other M1 & 6-22mm with the filter removed - with identical settings to the colour camera, including AWB.
View attachment 50780

During the cool-down phase at around 700degC, when the heating elements were turned off, the two cameras recorded these images. I think the only 'light' comes from the hot glass & kiln glowing. The IR-sensitive camera has picked out much more detail.

View attachment 50782
View attachment 50781

The primary purpose of my camera setup is to support my wife's hobby, so she can monitor what's going on inside. Webcam mode is just fine for this. She needs to see a live view to know when to stop heating for certain projects where timing is critical - such as melting the glass into a bowl shape.

I may try some full-resolution in-camera footage next time, in-between her webcam observations.
No that camera still has the IR-cut filter. I suspect the magenta colour comes from the heating elements glowing inside the kiln, since there's no other light source.

This is the view from the other M1 & 6-22mm with the filter removed - with identical settings to the colour camera, including AWB.
View attachment 50780

During the cool-down phase at around 700degC, when the heating elements were turned off, the two cameras recorded these images. I think the only 'light' comes from the hot glass & kiln glowing. The IR-sensitive camera has picked out much more detail.

View attachment 50782
View attachment 50781

The primary purpose of my camera setup is to support my wife's hobby, so she can monitor what's going on inside. Webcam mode is just fine for this. She needs to see a live view to know when to stop heating for certain projects where timing is critical - such as melting the glass into a bowl shape.

I may try some full-resolution in-camera footage next time, in-between her webcam observations.
Trying to understand seeing live view and color on camera video and or how the lens can see that deep with heat pressure around glass ,, and still what and where you are seeing comes about.
 

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The kiln is just a 600x600mm insulated box with infrared quartz heating elements in the lid. When it is closed, you can see inside through a small 2" diameter hole.

This is a test setup using an LED candle to check the feasibility of using the Mobius for this task.
1583488363859.png 1583488514568.png

With the camera aimed through the hole, you can see the webcam output on a laptop, for safe viewing without subjecting the individual to IR radiation.
1583488453269.png

This is some safety information regarding the IR emitted from the kiln. My wife has a pair of safety glasses on back-order.
I thought a camera setup would be a viable alternative to peering through the hole, and allows photographic records to be kept for her interest.
1583488885090.png
 

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The kiln is just a 600x600mm insulated box with infrared quartz heating elements in the lid. When it is closed, you can see inside through a small 2" diameter hole.

This is a test setup using an LED candle to check the feasibility of using the Mobius for this task.
View attachment 50792 View attachment 50794

With the camera aimed through the hole, you can see the webcam output on a laptop, for safe viewing without subjecting the individual to IR radiation.
View attachment 50793

This is some safety information regarding the IR emitted from the kiln. My wife has a pair of safety glasses on back-order.
I thought a camera setup would be a viable alternative to peering through the hole, and allows photographic records to be kept for her interest.
View attachment 50795
Yes I see what she is doing ,, thanks for the photos cause it clears things up ,, can only surmise what the camera is seeing is what it's focused on ?? and what to do with the information it's giving being
it's proper information you can work with.
 
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