My new C - PL Polarising filter arrived ... best place the front or the back screen camera?

Submariner Gold

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Vicovation MF3
Finally my Nisi C-PL Filter arrived today. Took 5 weeks to come .... WTF.
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So, I have 2 cameras and only one new Polarising lens ... where would you put it? Front or Back?

TBH it took so long to come and as my 1,440p 60 fps is Pretty good without a Polarising Filter, I had almost forgotten about it.

Without a problem to solve, it hardly seems worthwhile to spend ages testing both the front and the back, in both bright sunshine (ha ha that will be the day in the UK), overcast gloom and nighttime.

So I thought I would be lazy, (plus moving the seat to get to the cramped back is also a pain) and “Ride on the back” of anyones knowledge and testing, particularly those who have extensively experimented with Polarising Lenses.
i.e. what problems do they particularly score highly on solving? And therefore which camera should get the C PL.


My thoughts:-
Logically best place should be the front? Thats where you probably want better numberplate recognition.
But as I dont have any problems at the moment, and I assume these filter will make the image a couple of stops darker, it seems a plus and minus situation.

The rear screen is far more raked/sloping on a S Class Coupe than the front windsheild, does this present a sunshine reflection problem? (honestly we have not had one sunny day since I got these cameras) and therefore due tomthe pronounced slope the camera sits further away from the glass.
And of course drivers will come up directly behind you. So Re nightime Headlight dazzle? Do polarising filters help in this respect?

C-PL details: allegedly High Quality £12 Delivered.
Ordered 14th January ... dipatched 15th January!! [who do you think you are kidding! ] Estimated Delivery date. 1st Feb - 14th March !!!
Arrived 21st February. :(
But then its supposed to be a good camera grade C PL and at £12 ... rather than the Vico £29.99 seemed a good deal. :):)
On the positvie side it does look camera grade and well packed. Who knows if it works, but so far pleased.
 
Polarizers only help with polarized light so you should put it wherever reflections are a bigger issue. But the light reduction will increase exposure times and blurring. In the rear, it will let the camera see through the windshields of cars behind you. Headlights won't be affected
 
Polarizers only help with polarized light so you should put it wherever reflections are a bigger issue. But the light reduction will increase exposure times and blurring. In the rear, it will let the camera see through the windshields of cars behind you. Headlights won't be affected

Thanks much appreciated.
Based on that, the rear looks like the priority; if only to preserve the sharper image in the front.

Out of interest if I increase the ev value by one would that help exposure times ? Or does it still rely on the quantity of light getting through to the sensor in the first place
 
I run a primitive DIY dashmat in the front that's a lot better then the dark grey plastic dashbord i have to deal with in my cheap car.
But in the rear i would like to run a CPL as otherwise it can be next to impossible to see what go on in the car back there, and if anyone hit me from behind i want to be able to get them to pay for using a phone if that was the case.
 
I run a primitive DIY dashmat in the front that's a lot better then the dark grey plastic dashbord i have to deal with in my cheap car.
But in the rear i would like to run a CPL as otherwise it can be next to impossible to see what go on in the car back there, and if anyone hit me from behind i want to be able to get them to pay for using a phone if that was the case.

Thanks
Having paid a huge premium for Exclusive Black Nappa Leather, where the dashboard and all surrounding leather like on side trim panels is real leather; I wouldnt want to spoil the look for the sake of a dashcam .. but then thats me.
Yes I get the valid point about seeing why they rear ended you.

I was followed by an idiot last week, who in crawling traffic seemed to get incredibly close, and it seemed spent more (70%) time looking at his passenger, than the road ahead.
Next minute a huge screech, and he only just managed to stop 3” before my rear bumper. And I was driving defensively, i.e. touching the brakes twice before stopping, and then stopping but moving on a foot before he arrived.
 
Thanks much appreciated.
Based on that, the rear looks like the priority; if only to preserve the sharper image in the front.

Out of interest if I increase the ev value by one would that help exposure times ? Or does it still rely on the quantity of light getting through to the sensor in the first place

Increasing the EV would increase exposure time or increase ISO depending on how the camera is programmed. To speed up exposures you'd decrease EV
 
At least you get off just paying a premium for that, here you will have to pay for a little car like mine to get that, though i dont think Denmark have a tax on luxury items as such.
There is a reason just 1 % of cars here are automatics, they cost a lot more so only cars with tax breaks like taxis have used AUT transmission.
And things like leather, well that's reserved for the fortunate few that can afford it.

I remember a top gear episode where they got used but still bog cars, and the hamster got a nice big BMW for 10.000 pounds, i almost fell off the chair cuz a similar used BMW here would cost at least 2 X that.
And it would have the same additional content like specific body fluids and expulsions, and exotic powders.
 
At least you get off just paying a premium for that, here you will have to pay for a little car like mine to get that, though i dont think Denmark have a tax on luxury items as such.
There is a reason just 1 % of cars here are automatics, they cost a lot more so only cars with tax breaks like taxis have used AUT transmission.
And things like leather, well that's reserved for the fortunate few that can afford it.

I remember a top gear episode where they got used but still bog cars, and the hamster got a nice big BMW for 10.000 pounds, i almost fell off the chair cuz a similar used BMW here would cost at least 2 X that.
And it would have the same additional content like specific body fluids and expulsions, and exotic powders.

Strange the Danish gov. Dont realise that auto boxes are now far more fuel efficient than the average driver is with a manual and cut a tax break.
Yep the Exclusive option has risen in price here to a crazy price think today its £7,500 more, and yes you could get a nissan micra for that.

I think a big BMW for £10K is possible but would probably be staring at some huge bills in the near future!
A £20k one would probably cost you less in the long run.
E.g. my friend with the same car as me has just been told his HK Amplifier has gone at 32,000 miles just outside a 3 year warranty ... replaced and fitted £1,700.
So running out of warranty car here is not cheap.
 
Best thing to do with a cpl is use it in the day and remove it at night. The ease of that will depend on how easy it is to fit.

CPL's can sometimes help with streetlight glare at night but the penalty is reduced light entering the cam = slower shutter speeds = increased motion blur, or higher gain settings = more artefacts. So best used for daylight only if possible.

Personally, I'd tend to mount it on the front because the biggest source of reflection is usually the windscreen due to it's raked nature and the dashboard for reflecting light up there. With a rear camera, you can usually get the camera much closer to the glass due to less rake, and the parcel shelf being material, is usually less reflective. Going to depend on the car though. In any event, for me the front is the priority as most rear end shunts are straight on and so it's highly likely there will little issue getting a plate.
 
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