Need some clarification on hardwiring dashcam

Dinsky

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Hello, I recently got a 2018 chevy Silverado and plan on buying the garmin 55 and parking mode cable to hardwire. I have never hardwired a dash cam and have very little knowledge. Couple questions. What size fuse tap will I need? What amp fuse do I need for the dash cam? 2, 5,10??
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SawMaster

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Welcome to DCT @Dinsky :) For dashcams a 2A fuse size is ideal but you are safe with a 5A fuse too. The fuse type you need should be listed in your Owner's Manual or given on the fusebox diagram sticker. Just a few details to watch for doing the install-

-First be sure of the ground connection; many visible bolts and screws may not actually connect to the chassis or may not connect to it well.
-Second be sure to ifentify the wires propperly; there will be tags on them or their function will be listed in the hardwiring instructions with the HWK kit. Wire colors and their function can vary between kits and manufacturers so do not presume based on wire color- always check the tags or instructions.
-Third is to never tap into a fuse which is smaller than the added fuse for the cam, and best to tap into one at least somewhat bigger.
-Fourth is to never run cabling in front of any airbags; you can usually find some factory wiring around where you need to go so just follow it's route exactly.

Which fuses to tap can be a problem as many vehicles now use delayed circuits or computer-controlled power shcemes. You will need a DMM (voltmeter) or LED test light to check these. Never tap into a safety-related circuit such as ABS, PRS (airbags), ECM or PCM, brake lights, taillights etc. For the ACC wire a few suggested places are power windows, radio, heated seats etc which operate only when the key is switched on. Finding the fuse for a BAT connection may be trickier, but usually the keyless entry fuse will have continuous power. Delayed or computer-controlled circuits can seem good for this but drop power later, so if you have problems this is usually where they're found.

It's not hard to do, just take it step-by-step. If you aren't comfortable with this level of DIY any car audio shop can do this for a reasonable cost. Your toughest issue will likely be removing trim parts to run the cabling. If you don't have the little plastic prybars to do this (sometimes supplied with cam or HWK) they can be bought for a few bucks at any auto parts store. Just go gently and carefully and don't use excessive force such as seeing the trim bending very noticeably at your pry tool but still not releasing. And if you have any problems just come back here and someone will be her to assist. That cam is one of the better ones IMHO so I'm sure you'll be pleased with it.

Phil
 

kamkar

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Welcome to the forum Dinsky ( that UN split up mean your cloud in Danish "Din Sky" ) :)
You can also find quite a few videos on youtube on how to install / hardwire a dashcam, it is not a procedure that require a masters degree in sending rockets to the moon.
And it is more or less the same for any dashcam / car
 
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Dinsky

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Thank you very much for the help. I think I understand it now. To confirm, I want to find a fuse with more amps than the 2 or 5 amp added fuse. Then put the original fuse in the bottom of the fuse tap and then put a 2 amp or 5 amp fuse in the top. Then make sure I have the load and draw on the correct sides and I should be good. Also, what is the best way to make sure that a visible screw is a good ground connection point?
 

SawMaster

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Yes, that all sounds right (y) There's often a screw or bolt on the extreme end underneath the dash, or a screw holding a kick-panel by your feet. You can checkl with a meter or test light by having one lead going to a known 'hot' then putting the other lead against the screw or bolt you're considering. Also often you may have a bolt very close to the fusebox, sometimes with factory ground wires going to it. Bolts going into the steering column metal are almost always good for grounds.

Phil

(EDIT TO ADD: Won't hurt anything to try by using the cam itself if you have no tester)
 

kamkar

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My ground is now one of the bolts that hold the plastic fuse panel to the car, it is a 10 mm or so bolt so the fork at the end of the ground wire can not bite over it, so it is just wedged in under the bolt and then it is tightened.
Some cars will have a actual ground point close to the fuse box, but no such thing in my little Suzuki car.

The biggest problem in modern cars can be finding the best fuses to use, you will of course want to stay clear of important fuses like airbags and so on.
But then some new cars turn off some circuits at stop or a while after stop, and some will also keep some live for a while, i found that out putting a camera in my friends Mercedes, at first i was not able to find a fuse that was not off, but then after a while something reset and i was able to tap into one fuse ( just hardware for power not parking guard ) i could use, a fuse i had already tried like 10 times.
So you your newer car i might be a idea to open it, and then let it sit there for a while before you start probing what fuses to tap into, i got a cheap LED probe that just cost me a few USD as i was not able to find the multi meter i normally use for such things.
 
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Dinsky

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Thank you very much! I have a multimeter so I will be able to test all the connections. I appreciate the help and will post again if I run into any problems in my install.
 

kamkar

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No swat Dinsky we are here to help.
 
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