NEW RUNCAM SPLIT (ex RC3 cube): modular dashcam option??

More info from Runcam here:

http://shop.runcam.com/runcam-split/

What I like most (as far as I can tell NOW from reviews and spec sheets):

"File Protection feature: It can save the recorded file if the camera loses power." !!

and of course:

1) Seems to have great WDR (or HDR?) function, and really good night/low light recording...
2) MODULAR:
  • Replaceable lens
  • Manual focus
  • Two Customized Lens Extension Cables (90mm and 180mm)
3) Small, lightweight
4) Create own camera, form factor (housing), battery-soldering spots, micro vent etc
5) Easy hideaway for fixed locations in vehicles
6) 5V through micro USB, board terminal connector AND soldering spots!
7) it does 1080p/60: good enough for dashcam
8) WiFi (module)
9) phone app
  • Live preview
  • Video playback
  • Camera parameters setting
  • Download
10) SD card slot, with a “door” design slot


Negs (if you can call it that...)

1) Orange lens module, would prefer black
2) WiFi module placement is 90 degrees upright, not so happy with that, can maybe adapted?


I found some aluminium housings which might interest you guys:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/fre.../1526394018.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.0.roW9ww

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-p.../1867073831.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.0.roW9ww

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Alu...32284926757.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.0.roW9ww

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-p...32761822590.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.0.roW9ww

And another nice review and info/thoughts:

https://oscarliang.com/runcam-split-camera/
 
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From Runcam

"The file saving is missing the last 3 seconds, so the file is saved, but not the last 3 seconds."
 
From Runcam

"The file saving is missing the last 3 seconds, so the file is saved, but not the last 3 seconds."
3 seconds is a long, long time in the life of a prang. If power were lost/dropped on impact, the previous 3 seconds would be very important.
 
3 seconds is a long, long time in the life of a prang. If power were lost/dropped on impact, the previous 3 seconds would be very important.

Yeah, I know. Using a battery seems necessary, I'm not sure if we could apply a supercapacitor.

What do you guys think?
 
I brought one of these to fit into a skydive helmet. It's a very impressive bit of kit with a few big issues that need resolving, they told me they are going to maybe make one with some of my suggestions so the V2 of this should be great. Some of the negatives: it has obviously been made the the drone market with little thought for those that are not using it in a drone. This is clearly the internals of an action camera, however not enough has been done for the fact you are handling parts usually in a case: the cable to the lens is incredibly prone to stop working if moved around too much, I have eaten 3 of them in 2 days just by mounting and testing the thing. A very simple plastic flat case would be nice for the PCB as you are constantly handling a board and its small components. The on/off switch are micro switches, usually mounted under a button but in this case they are raw. The power input needs 5v, however all normal action cam batteries and similar are 3.7v so you need a voltage regulator. The SD card holder is horrible, it's a latch where a push pull slot would be far better (again because of this design you will be handling the board alot to remove the SD, possibly putting small strain on the lens cable and it will fail), my USB to PC connection stopped working - again meaning manual handling of the PCB often = lens cable failure. There is also a serious issue with connecting the Split to a PC by USB while it's on battery, can damage the USB port unless you fit a diode on the PC etc....

That lot all said, there is nothing else like it and I think it's perfect for my application. I've got it totally hidden in my skydive helmet, it weights next to nothing and the video (while not as good as my Yi 4k) is very usable and probably as good as any 1080p action camera. They told me they are working on a case, different SD card slot, and maybe a lead on/off switch, and will certianly fix the back current on USB. I would certainly recommend them for a multitude of clever DIY camera solutions, however maybe wait for a V2, or buy a large stock of lens cables :)

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I checked this out recently. Look at their all in one devices. I like the interchangeable lenses
 
OK, so the camera came in finally, with the GoPro quality lens (needed a second shipment, 1st one was returnd for some odd reason). Here are a few comparison screenshots of the Split and the JooVuu X. You all should draw your own conclusions, my best guess is to not explore it any further...... well, not for dashcam anyway.

Split:
vlcsnap-2017-08-12-22h55m28s191.png

JooVuu X:
vlcsnap-2017-08-12-23h12m49s699.png

I passed these (almost) standing cars at about 65 Km/h.

Rest assured, the Split - lens is not oof, its just not good enough to pick a sharp screenshot from the footage (as is the case with the Foxeer Legend 3), and it was recorded at 1080p/30 and 20MB/s bitrate. The JooVuu X at 1080p/60 and 28MB/s.

The Split was placed close to the window, as where the JooVuu X at about 25~30 cm.

I accidentally had the exposure value on +0.2, and 60Hz / NTSC, maybe that's what causing the weird flat colors? I don't know, but in my book, when it comes to capturing some offender, the JooVuu still rules, to bad it's still not super stable yet.

I will try again monday on 1080p/60, 0.0 exposure value and 50Hz / PAL, maybe the footage will be a little less flat, but I expect no improvement in reading license plates.

If you dó want to use it as a dashcam, make sure to use a battery or supercapacitor to keep date/time and to save the whole file.

Without batt you will loose 3~6 seconds at the end of the recording.....

Even at narrowest lens setting, the distortion is apocalyptical....

Maybe the Runcam lens is better??? Anyone?
 
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Passing about 30 Km/h (me and upcomers)

vlcsnap-2017-08-12-22h59m30s803.png
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vlcsnap-2017-08-12-23h09m55s709.png
 
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I forgot to show you the box I use for my Split - "dashcam".....

Boght it in the cheap-stuff-shop, called Action (NL), it's made of tin, and can be easily used for magnet mounting.....

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IMG_20170813_140400130.jpg

Metallic mount is also from Action (NL) store. Sold as a doorhanger / hook which I custom re-bent for use in my work truck's dashboard. I made it in the first place for mounting the Mobius 1 and the JooVuu X, but serves this purpose just as well!

when recording the lid goes up/open, to let all the heat out....

PCB mainboard is mounted on a plastic card (old bank/phone/credit etc card will do). Cut to box size for a snug fit, and easy take out. Lens cable between the mainboard and plastic card base.

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I bought an angled micro USB M/F short cable, which stays in semi permanent, this is to prevent stressing the board mounted micro USB socket too much. I use the female side of the cable to connect to the car's USB charger cable.
 
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OK, so the camera came in finally, with the GoPro quality lens (needed a second shipment, 1st one was returnd for some odd reason). Here are a few comparison screenshots of the Split and the JooVuu X. You all should draw your own conclusions, my best guess is to not explore it any further...... well, not for dashcam anyway.

This looks exceedingly bad. I have one and I don't think it looks this bad. For one I brought it with the better lens, also i find WDR (wide dynamic range) does not look pleasing, gives it that washed out look....
 
I don't get it, I see many great recordings, but mines are so dull colored.... something wrong? What lens do you have (Gopro quality lens or standard Runcam lens)?
 
This looks exceedingly bad. I have one and I don't think it looks this bad. For one I brought it with the better lens, also i find WDR (wide dynamic range) does not look pleasing, gives it that washed out look....

I agree, EXCEEDINLY.... :(

OK, I'll try without WDR then.

Here's a sample clip from my appartment..... boooooring.....

 
looking at that video I can definitely see the WDR, it might add dynamic range but it also makes the image look fake. I would think the cheap lesn (probably a $1 part) would not help at all, the gopro esque one (a $5 part :)) should really be used. Otherwise it looks alright. About 1080p sharp, quite compressed, not bad for a micro camera hence I have stopped using my 4k action cmaera and am using this. I won't use it for pro material but it is good enough (aka a gopro session type)
 
Does WDR help in street lit night recordings? Or better leave it off all together...?
 
OK, WDR OFF...... Wow......


A few additional remarks:

- WiFi mount / type / location: the WORST..... not useable when in use as dashcam, needs a solution!
- To connect over WiFi the app tells me to TURN OFF my (4G) DATA connection....... !? WHY?!?
- WiFi connects QUICK
- What to choose F(l)ight control or PWM? And what is that?
 
Yeah I dont know much about these Runcams, and I don't use WDR on any of my photography or videography. In theory it tries to stop the image over exposing in the sky, or under exposing in the shadows, I don't know what method they use to attempt this, It does look to have more dynamic range but the image also looks pretty **** to me so I'm leaving it off - it wouldn't be used for nighttime, it would actually be used in the kind of scene you are filming, bright area (the sky) and shadowed areas. You could also try changing the metering mode to average....

-Wifi mount for me I set the camera then I remove it, once it's set I don't need to change settings at all. I have seen people buy a cable extender for this.
-Don;t know why it would turn off 4g, but it will turn off your phones connection to normal wifi
-Flight controller mode I believe is for the drone use, when people control the camera from the drones remote, however as I don't do this I don't think any of the settings apply to me
 
Yeah I dont know much about these Runcams, and I don't use WDR on any of my photography or videography. In theory it tries to stop the image over exposing in the sky, or under exposing in the shadows, I don't know what method they use to attempt this, It does look to have more dynamic range but the image also looks pretty **** to me so I'm leaving it off - it wouldn't be used for nighttime, it would actually be used in the kind of scene you are filming, bright area (the sky) and shadowed areas. You could also try changing the metering mode to average....

-Wifi mount for me I set the camera then I remove it, once it's set I don't need to change settings at all. I have seen people buy a cable extender for this.
-Don;t know why it would turn off 4g, but it will turn off your phones connection to normal wifi
-Flight controller mode I believe is for the drone use, when people control the camera from the drones remote, however as I don't do this I don't think any of the settings apply to me

The app aparently can't connect to the camera over wifi as long as the phone's data connection (not the wifi, but the 4g) is active, that is weird....

The first comparison pictures are with average metering, the 2 YouTube videos are with medium setting (not spot, not average, the middle one.... :rolleyes:).

Tomorrow I'm going to try this average metering, with WDR OFF, 1080p/60 30Mb/s.
 
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