New to the Viofo A119V2

caf2

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New to DashCam Talk and its forums. I am based in and around London, UK.

I'm not new to dashcams but am one of these plug and go users, install, hope the cam' works and gives me the results I want without much tweaking by me.

My first two dashcams were real cheapos but they did a job just not well, then 3 years ago I purchased a NextBase 402G and I was amazed, set up, video quality was better than anything I had experienced.

The first 402g only lasted two months and went up in smoke, ( internal battery fault ), NextBase replaced it, no quibble and the replacement ran good for about 15 months but the battery gave up again, so NextBase replaced the battery, ( so unit no longer the bargain it was ), but have been running it ever since without issue until the other day and the battery gave up again, time for a rethink on dashcams.

The bottom line is I have just purchased my first dashcam fitted with capacitors, the A119V2, non-GPS via Amazon UK.

I did a fair amount of reading, which is what brought me to DashCam Talk, did a fair amount of reading of the forums before joining.

That my history with dashcams in brief but I have some questions about the A119V2. I've done a little to much reading of the A119 forums and got myself a bit lost with taking in all the info.

Along with the camera I purchased a Viofo suction cup screen mount for the A119 and a genuine Viofo CPL filter from another retailer.

One of the first things I did out of the box was update the firmware from 180730-V3.91 to V4.01 via Viofo using the how to video on this site, that all has gone smoothly.

1) I noted there are further modified firmware upgrades to tweak official firmware, do I need to install this or does V4 contain this tweaking?

2), I have always used suction cup mounts for my dashcams, am I best to use a suction cup with this camera or the adhesive mounts, ( I'm thinking about reflections )?? It took me reading some of the posts before realising what the string was for that came with the camera.

3) The Viofo CPL filter, which is top and bottom or does it matter?

I've been reading post which suggests possibly rotating the filter to improve results if need be but there doesn't appear to be a way of doing this with the filter I have.

4), This feels like a stupid question but what exactly does a hard wire kit do?

With all my dash cams I have just plugged them in to a car lighter type socket and powered them that way with no issues.

About a year or so ago I did purchase a NextBase HW kit for the 402G but never installed it, will this kit do for the A119 or should I purchase the official Viofo HW kit?

Both the above kits are a 2 wire system but I have been reading about 3 wire kits, what's the difference as far as camera operation is concerned?

Sorry for the first long post but I have got lost a bit.
 
Thanks for choosing VIOFO product.

1. You can use the official firmware, and check the latest official firmware from this link. There is third party tweaking the firmware, you can have a try also if you have time to do.
2. We suggest you use the included the 3M adhesive mount if you don't remove the camera often, with this mount, the camera will be look more hidden. Suction mount is good if you want to use the camera in different car.
3. The CPL is good for reducing reflection, normally it is tuned in factory, no necessary to rotate.
4. The hard wire kit is for long time parking recording, it can get constant recording after the car stopped, and cut off while the battery voltage below 11.8V.
 
Thanks for choosing VIOFO product.

1. You can use the official firmware, and check the latest official firmware from this link. There is third party tweaking the firmware, you can have a try also if you have time to do.
2. We suggest you use the included the 3M adhesive mount if you don't remove the camera often, with this mount, the camera will be look more hidden. Suction mount is good if you want to use the camera in different car.
3. The CPL is good for reducing reflection, normally it is tuned in factory, no necessary to rotate.
4. The hard wire kit is for long time parking recording, it can get constant recording after the car stopped, and cut off while the battery voltage below 11.8V.

Thanks for the reply.

1) I will take a look at third party tweaking later.

2) I don't move the camera that often but prefer to use a suction mount but will it cause more reflection on video footage?

4) I am now seriously considering using 2 x20000mAh PowerBanks, and rotating them in use, any brand recommendations and features I should look for?

If I use PowerBanks will this shorten the life of the A119?

When using the camera to record continually when vehicle is not being driven or parked for the night when connected to a PowerBank what menu setting should I use on the DashCam?
Thanks
 
I recommend try the modification firmware MOD 5Re located along with many others at https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/a119-modified-firmware-mods-archive.35602/ There are several MODs to be found there. The mods will brighten and sharpen the image. You can get both 4.0 and 3.91 version. 5Re is a bit less taxing than the 7 series by all means give the MODS 7 a go but may run fairly hot. If you try the MODS do not forget to rename them to FWBA119.bin and place in the SD Cards root as per the Viofo firmware.

The suction mount holds the cam further away from the windscreen that the 3M backed mount. It is less stable for the video and is designed for people using the same cam in more than one car.

The CPL cuts down a lot of the reflection but like Polaroid sun glasses it does not remove it completely.

A power bank will work but an hard wire kit that controls the battery usage is the best option. The settings depend on what and how want to do it.

Suggest looking up BCHobbist on YouTube ( and subscribe) and you will find a lot videos there to help you. Many of the A119S and A199Pro videos can also apply to the A119 V2.
BTW I have 2 A119 V2s
 
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Thanks Tractor for the reply.

I had a look at the Mod firmware and will need to play but in the first instant is this the one I should upload to the A119, ( FWBA119_MOD-5Re_v4.00+25Mbps+Sharp170+Edge148+Hue136+Sat32+DCTeam.bi], after renaming it?

As to PowerBanks, I understand the point you make but I was thinking if I purchased 2 x 20000mAh and charged them from home in rotation I would not need to worry about the vehicle battery as such.

Do you have any recommendations as to a brand of PB? I'm not sure what specs I should be looking for. Should be looking at a PB that uses lithium-polymer batteries or 18650s?

Thanks for the BCHobbist suggestion, before purchasing my A119 I had viewed their videos as well as joining this site, a lot of info, got myself a bit lost. I know I can use a PB and this site suggest a 20000 mAh one but that is about it. There are some branded ones mentioned on this site but was wondering more about lesser known brands but as good as the known ones for a better price.

However you pay for what you get and I don't want to screw up the camera.
 
Yes that's the MOD I referred to, you may also try MOD 5Rf which I have just upload a sample at https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/a119-modified-firmware-mods-archive.35602/page-8 it is currently the last post on page 8. You will get true quality if you download the file rather the Google re-encoded version although still looks good.

Regards the power banks I do not use parking mode etc. but I can not see it being a problem if managed well. Can't comment on PB's very rarely use them, but do run my A119 via a phone charger when updating. Its a must to be sure of no power loss also useful for in home setting etc. I sure that BCHobbyist will be along he may be able to advise on PB. I have changed the FW many times along as the power supply is sound you should have no problem.
 
Thanks Tractor,

The 5RE modware refered to, I downloaded the file to my PC, do I need to rename it, if so to what before uploading to card then to camera??

I've been reading dashcam sites as to the pros and cons of a PB against a HW kit and it is kind of 50/50. That's the problem with the internet sometimes, I might be better informed but it doesn't help always with the decision making.

I appreciate your comments on the PBs, hopefully someone might read this thread and have better user experience as to what to look for in one.

Missed your Viking Ship on the first play, had to laugh at myself as to how I missed it.
 
All firmware updates be in Viofo or a MOD must be renamed to "FWBA119.bin" in the root of the SD card.

Regards the PB or Hardwire it is really what suit you best. Remember it is better to have a reliable power source when upgrading. i.e. Make sure that you use a PC for transferring files only do not try to use PC connection to upgrade. Do not use the PB unless you are 100% sure it is fully charge and not faulty.

Currently Hardwiring my dash cam only trouble is finding a ground, newer cars are nearly all plastic all round the dash board.

I try to be a bit different with my dashcam clips.
Tractor
 
Thanks Tractor,

Can't thank you enough for your advise and help, I'm on a steep learning curve.

Have to say, first clip I've watched and there's a Viking Ship parked up, I'm still smiling. :)

Taken onboard about renaming files and what not to do when transferring files.

Not quite there but just about settled on the PB I'm going to buy. I am however going to buy another hardwire kit, install that to.

Which reminds me, I have another question about a hardwire kit but will further read this site before asking, see if there is an answer all ready.

Understand what you mean by finding a ground point on vehicle, the inside of mine is practically all plastic.
 
The learning curve is not so steep when others share their knowledge.

It is a Viofo hardware kit that I am installing at the moment, I will be done when I find a decent point to ground. Then I can comment. Trouble with the Internet you hear so may different views it becomes bewildering.
 
It is still steep, so much to read and remember.

I had a look at the Viofo HW kit, in fact one is in my shopping basket, still unsure.

The issue I have is how low the vehicle battery voltage will have to drop before kit switches off while the dashcam is in parking or constant recording mode.

I have had a good look and all the HW kits I found automictically switch off should the battery drop to 11.2-11.6 volts, this is to low for a car battery when trying to start it.

I suppose a lot depends on how the vehicle is used daily and the condition of the battery and the charging.

As I remember a decent car battery at idle should be reading something like 13 .2 volts - 13.8 volts if the alternator is doing its job.

If the vehicle is being used for a long run daily any drain via a dash camera left on at night won't have much affect.

But a works vehicle like mine that does many stop and starts calls daily, canes a battery then parked up over the weekend might have issues starting come the working week if a camera is left in parking or continues recording mode.

I would have thought any HW kit that won't switch off/cut out until the car battery drops to 11.6v means for starting purposes a dead battery, more so during the winter.

I could not find one off the shelf HW kit for sale in the UK that could be regulated/would cut out if it sensed a voltage drop to 12.8v.

I may be misunderstanding things and there are a lot of variables, but a HW kits that allows a drop to 11.6 volts, it is to low in my opinion.

For overnight parking and recording and car battery in good condition, I don't suppose there will be to much of an issue but parked up for the weekend or a bit longer there might be.

It is one of the reasons I considered PBs instead.
 
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@caf2 I would recommend purchasing either the Power Magic Pro or Vico Power Plus (also the MultiSafer if they have it where you are located). Both of these offer appropriate battery voltage cutoffs and timer cutoffs (Vico PP also has a thermal cutoff).

11.6V is way too low and will kill your battery quicker.
 
I only intend to used the hardwire for extra dash cams so do not intend to use it when the car is idle. I have connected to the ACC fuse so only live (when I find a ground) when the accessories are turned on. I have no need for the parking option. If I did I would take BCHobbyist recommendation.
 
Thanks for choosing VIOFO product.

4. The hard wire kit is for long time parking recording, it can get constant recording after the car stopped, and cut off while the battery voltage below 11.8V.
Thanks for the reply.

I'm going to write about hard wire kits elsewhere on this forum later but for now I have this observation to make.

I'm new to HW kits, not so new to dashcams and have owned a few vehicles.

Viofo can not possibly know the condition of vehicle/batteries that your DCs are fitted to.

You do however have an official HW kit with your name on it that I assume you don't manufacture but are just branded for you.

You tell me of a average car, new or old in any part of the world that will cold start on a battery that has been discharged to 11.8v- 11.6v because your HW kit has allowed the car battery to drop to this level due to your dash cams being left in parking or continues mode option either over night or not used for a couple of days.

In affect this renders a vehicle dead in the water until the driver phones road side or jump starts the vehicle which makes any parking mode options on your DCs not pointless but on a prayer and chancing it as to whether the vehicle will start of not.

I understand Viofo are not battery or automotive specialist but this is basic knowledge, a depleted battery to such a degree is not fit for man/woman or car when it comes to starting.

So I'm curious as to why you are selling or have branded in your name a HW kit, that allows a battery to discharge to 11.8v- 11.6v before cutting out??

Sure your dash cam will continue going to 11.8v, most vehicles won't for a while.
 
Please note this is not Viofo's site and thus run by enthusiasts with a Viofo rep appearing occasionally. If you need to address Viofo directly try this site https://support.viofo.com/support/home. Anytime soon Viofo are due to release a new design hardwire kit which will give the user the option of 3 setting for battery level. Might be worth waiting a month or so.
 
Please note this is not Viofo's site and thus run by enthusiasts with a Viofo rep appearing occasionally. If you need to address Viofo directly try this site https://support.viofo.com/support/home. Anytime soon Viofo are due to release a new design hardwire kit which will give the user the option of 3 setting for battery level. Might be worth waiting a month or so.

Thanks.

I am aware of this which is why I included part of their reply in my post as my comments were direct to them along with anyone else who might care to read and comment.

Part of my reasoning is I own a Viofo product so my questions and observations were quite specific. It would be a bit like me roasting another manufacture over the coals and not owning or ever intending to purchase or having any experience with one of their products.

I am aware Viofo is bringing out a new design HW kit end of October 2018 but I can only with any surety comment on the here and now.

Viafo aren't the only ones that sell HW kits but they are one of the few brands that put their name to one.

There are 3 or 4 HW kits that allow for variable voltage and I had TCK81 post in mind and their recommendations and they all look good products but at a cost starting at £40 upwards.

That fine if you own a new vehicle and wanting to splash out a few more extra quid protecting your pride and joy 24 hours and why not.

But most vehicles on the road in the UK and America are 4 years plus so their car batteries are beginning to wane just a little.

Of the fifty or so HW kits I viewed on sites like Amazon UK/USA, E-bay, Ali-Express, BangGood, Chinese Markets and so on, I only found 2 that allowed for variable voltage settings and even those cut out at 12v, for cars and at twice + the cost. So I did do the research before posting and such a discharge level is still to low in my opinion.

So these manufactures/resellers are all guilty of flogging a HW kit that could drain a car battery to a level that won't start it.

This is a ludicrous state of affairs and I am wondering why most cut out 11.6,-11.8v. I can only think it is to enable the dashcam to keep monitoring in parking or continues recording mode at the possible expense of the vehicle not starting.

As I wrote previously, a vehicle that won't start is less likely to be involved in any kind of incident.

Such a low discharge level is crazy logic to my mind and will render some options on dash cams pointless having unless you own a vehicle in tip-top condition or a vehicle used daily in such a way any battery discharge is recouped or makes little difference.

Most vehicles on the road, their batteries and charging systems are not in tip-top condition, not bad, just not great.

I suppose my other question is if manufactures can produce a HW kit that cuts out at 11'8v-11.6v, why not one at 12.6v and the price remaining the same? Existing ones all sell at around £15-£20 so I see no reason for the price to rocket.

Doesn't have to be variable either just set to cut out at 12.6v.-12.8v.

All very well our DC keeps monitoring in parking mode but a vehicle that won't start isn't.

I note your comment and heartily agree, this site is contributed to by some very knowledgeable enthusiasts and experts alike, it is a great site and have learned so much, information overload a bit but one I will contribute to where I can.

I mean no offence as a newbi and credit due where credit earned but the same must go for criticisms and frustration. :)

Edit, incidentally before joining this site or purchasing a Viofo dashcam I did contact Viafo directly but received no reply, my inquiry had nothing to do with HW kits however.
 
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It is but it is one of few that does but at twice the cost compared to many. I accept it is a superior product and a decent one and you pay for what you get.

But if I'm understanding right this product has to be set up with a cigar type harness although I can't see why the control box alone can't be used.

The point I'm trying to make, for what is a simple control box, most cut out at 11.6v-11.8v, good for dash cam modes, not for most cars of at least their batteries.
 
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caf2
No offence was taken by your comments. I suspect your not alone with your comments to Viofo.
The dash cam market is relatively young and the manufactures are probably still on that steep learning curve. I am confident that Viofo are trying to get their business to have better products and happy come back again customers. Along with being profitable for the consumer a well as their company.
 
caf2
No offence was taken by your comments. I suspect your not alone with your comments to Viofo.
The dash cam market is relatively young and the manufactures are probably still on that steep learning curve. I am confident that Viofo are trying to get their business to have better products and happy come back again customers. Along with being profitable for the consumer a well as their company.
Thank you Tractor.

Relatively new, yes but I think I had my first DC some 8 years ago so more then enough time to produce a product that won't prevent a car from starting.

Viafo can not be held to account for third party sellers of these HW units but they do put their name to one as an official product that may render a vehicle inoperable for a while.

One of the questions I put to Viofo in my enquiry to them was the A119 was my first capacitor based DC but does their unit indeed contain a small lipo-battery?

I went ahead and purchased anyway but was wondering, if correct what affect this would have on the unit if battery gave out?

I'm sick to death of swapping out batteries in other dashcams I have owned, sick of it! My NextBase 402G is on its 3rd battery including a replacement FOC camera from them.

Great DC but damn batteries, it's a real pain, I have had enough but made up for by their good customer service which admittedly is UK based.

It wouldn't be as far bad when their unit is cracked open and a simple battery, JST or Dupont disconnect/connect replacement but at £35 to return and replace and the inconvenience, it gets tedious and annoying if not costly.

It was time for a re-think as to my DC requirements and budget and a reason why I settled on Viofo.
 
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