Nextbase 522GW - Testing / Review

rcg530

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While I attended the 2022 AAPEX/SEMA shows in Las Vegas, I stopped by the Nextbase booth. I introduced myself and we talked about various Nextbase dash cameras. Nextbase sent me some 522GW related items to check out. Just before Thanksgiving, I received the Nextbase products. I received two 522GW dash cameras, two Nextbase 64GB U3 microSD cards, a rear window camera, a rear view camera and a 2-wire hardwire kit.

The 522GW has an internal Lithium-Polymer 3.7V / 320 mAh battery instead of a supercapacitor to provide power for 10 to 15 minutes in a "power loss" situation. This will be my first dash camera test with a battery instead of supercapacitor. I won't be able to heat stress the camera during my review since it's currently late fall where I'm located in Northern California.

The video resolution options are:

Front / Rear (if connected)
1440P @ 30FPS / 720P @ 30FPS
1080P @ 60FPS / 720P @ 30FPS
1080P @ 30FPS / 1080P @ 30FPS

I'll start bench testing the 522GW over the next couple of weeks and when window space frees up in my car, I'll get the 522GW installed.

Nextbase 522GW Front Dash Camera
nextbase_522gw_box_01.jpgnextbase_522gw_box_02.jpgnextbase_522gw_box_03.jpgnextbase_522gw_box_04.jpg

Nextbase Rear Window Camera
nextbase_rear_window_camera.jpg

Nextbase Rear View Camera
nextbase_rear_view_camera.jpg

Nextbase 64GB U3 microSD Memory Card
nextbase_64gb_u3_microsd_card.jpg

Nextbase 2-Wire Hardwire Kit
nextbase_2wire_hardwire_kit.jpg
 
While finishing up some other dash camera reviews, I was able to get my power consumption tests completed for the Nextbase 522GW. I have two 522GW front dash cameras, 1 rear view camera (USB camera that plugs directly into the side of the front camera) and 1 rear window camera (round camera that mounts on the rear window of the vehicle).

Intelligent Parking Mode

The 522GW provides only one type of parking mode/guard recording option and that's Intelligent Parking Mode (IPM). If the 522GW has been stationary for 5-minutes and IPM is enabled in the firmware settings, the dash camera will enter IPM. IPM is a low power consumption parking mode. The dash camera and hardwiring kit consumed only 0.14 Watts while in the IPM "sleep mode". When an impact is detected, the dash camera will power up (4 seconds for 1-channel and 6 seconds for 2-channel configurations) and record a 30 second impact/protected video. For another 4 minutes 30 seconds, it will continue to record video and if no further impacts are detected, it will return to the IPM sleep mode.

With the presence of an internal battery, having IPM enabled means you can never fully turn off the dash camera by using the power button. While in normal recording mode, if you press the power button, the dash camera will switch to IPM. As long as external power is supplied to the dash camera, it will continue to operate in IPM. If the external power is turned off, the dash camera will continue in IPM drawing power from the internal Lithium Ion battery until its charge level is depleted. If you want to fully power down the dash camera, you must disable IPM first and then use the power button or remove external power from the dash camera. I like to be in full control of when a dash camera is powered/operating, so I wish Nextbase would have a way to fully power down the dash camera even when IPM is enabled. When I park my vehicle in my garage, I don't need to have the dash camera continue to operate (consume external power or internal battery power).

The amount of time it takes to start recording after an impact has been detected is better than some dash cameras, but still a bit slow (6 seconds for 2-channel, 4 seconds for 1-channel). The sleep mode aspect of IPM certainly does give you the ability to have IPM functional for a long period of time when externally powered by your vehicle's battery or a dash camera battery pack.

pwr_consumption_522gw_parking_mode_estimates.jpg

If you use IPM, it is recommended to use the 2-wire Nextbase "Dash Cam Hardwire Kit" to power the 522GW. It supports 12-volt and 24-volt systems.

The 2-wire hardwire kit does have a low voltage cutoff feature. The low voltage cutoff values are documentted at very low fixed values (11.0 volts / 23.0 volts). Draining your vehicle's battery to 11.0 volts (12-volt system) is an almost guaranteed no start situation. The low voltage cutoff feature needs to have a user selectable voltage value. An 11.0 volt cutoff value is acceptable if the external power source is a dash camera battery pack, but not when powered by the vehicle's starting battery.

** Update 02-Mar-2023 **
I asked Nextbase Support about the documented 2-wire hardwire kit low voltage cutoff values of 11.0 volts (12-volt system). I received this response:​
As of late 2021, for a 12 volt system the voltage cut off is 11.6V +/- 0.2V. Prior to this it was 11.2V +/- 0.2V. This is why you're also seeing the 11.8V/11.0V numbers hovering around.
I will test the 2-wire hardwire kit's actual low voltage cutoff value when I remove it from my car. I did test the cigarette lighter adapter (CLA) since it had been stated it too has a low voltage cutoff feature. I found that when I dropped the input voltage to 11.28 volts the output power to the dash camera (and the status LED) are turned off. When I raised the voltage level to 11.30 volts the output power and LED were once again on. I was told that the documentation inaccuracies will be addressed to show the proper low voltage cutoff values.​

I usually do not use a "sleep mode / low power mode" impact based parking mode due to the amount of time it takes to get the camera(s) functional and recording after the impact has been detected. I would like to see Nextbase add support for time-lapse and/or low bitrate parking modes in additional to the current IPM offered in the product.

Power Consumption Test Data

I ran power consumption tests for three configurations of the 522GW (1-channel, 2-channel with rear view camera and 2-channel with rear window camera). The 522GW has a "Dual Files" feature. When the "Dual Files" feature is enabled (default), it will record a high resolution video along with a low resolution (848x480 30fps) video for each video camera. While testing the 1-channel configuration, I tested whether the "Dual Files" mode impacted the power consumption of the dash camera. There was little or no change in the power consumed with "Dual Files" enabled or disabled. I list the video Mbps bitrate in the power consumption "Notes" column.

Power Consumption - 522GW - FW 23.7 - 1-Channel
pwr_consumption_522gw_1ch_fw23.8.jpg

Power Consumption - 522GW - FW 23.7 - 2-Channel (Rear View Camera)
pwr_consumption_522gw_2ch_rvc_fw23.8.jpg

Power Consumption - 522GW - FW 23.7 - 2-Channel (Rear Window Camera)
pwr_consumption_522gw_2ch_rwc_fw23.8.jpg
 
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Some of us have been using the 522GW and it’s predecessor the 512GW for year. There is little you can tell us in another review that none of us don’t know already. But I wish you well in your venture and look forward to what you might discover. My only tip would be “ read the instructions”. It’s a major failing.
 
I started gathering power consumption data for the 522GW (front camera only so far). I have two 522GW units. I had previously updated both units from v 19.x (can't remember the last digit) to v22.8 a few weeks ago. This week, I found that firmware 23.7 was released for the 522GW earlier this month. I updated both units with 23.7, defaulted the firmware settings and started gathering power consumption data. When I tried testing intelligent parking mode (IPM) on the unit selected for the power tests, I found it would not enter and stay in IPM after the 5-minute timeout period with no impacts. It would initially go into IPM power saving mode and then immediately exit IPM, create a 30 second locked file and then after another 5-minute impact free timeout period it would repeat the same pattern. I tried downgrading that unit to 22.8 firmware (defaulting the firmware settings and turning on "Parking Mode"), but the same problem occurred again. The internal battery in both units are fully charged and they were being powered by the Nextbase hardwire kit.

I tested the second 522GW going through the exact same steps and IPM works as one would expect. After the 5-minute impact free timeout period, it goes into IPM power saving mode and stays in that mode until an impact is detected.

I created a demonstration video of the problem. The first part shows the problem unit and the second part shows it working correctly with the second unit. I may have a 522GW with a bad G-sensor/accelerometer. I've reported the problem to my Nextbase contact.

 
What are you using as your permanent power source?
 
What are you using as your permanent power source?
I have a NANKADF AC-to-DC power supply set to 12.6 volts as the constant power input to the Nextbase 2-wire hardwire kit which is plugged into the windshield mount of the 522GW.
 
Hi,
Please perform a Parking Mode test on the non-functioning camera:

1) Bring the camera inside your home/office. Plug the camera in using the USB cable. Ensure the Blue LED is illuminated and that the cam is receiving power.
2) Make sure the cam can record, you may need to select 'POWER ON' on the screen if plugged into a PC.
3) Ensure Parking Mode is turned 'ON'.
4) Put the camera on a flat, still surface.
5) Press the record button. The camera will start recording a normal file.
6) Now leave the camera still. After a period of inactivity, the camera will turn off.
7) Once the cam has turned off, shake it.

Does it now turn on and go off correctly after 5 minutes please?

If not, please can you let me know the following:

What brand, size, model and class of SD card are you using please?
When and where was the SD card purchased please?
How often is the card usually formatted please?
Do you also have a rear camera please?

Kind regards,
Millie
Nextbase Technical Support
 
Millie, the original post does tell you the cards are Nextbase being used. Why would it matter when and where they were purchased ?
This guy is testing the units not using them in a vehicle. “ A reviewer”.
 
Hi,
Please perform a Parking Mode test on the non-functioning camera:

1) Bring the camera inside your home/office. Plug the camera in using the USB cable. Ensure the Blue LED is illuminated and that the cam is receiving power.
2) Make sure the cam can record, you may need to select 'POWER ON' on the screen if plugged into a PC.
3) Ensure Parking Mode is turned 'ON'.
4) Put the camera on a flat, still surface.
5) Press the record button. The camera will start recording a normal file.
6) Now leave the camera still. After a period of inactivity, the camera will turn off.
7) Once the cam has turned off, shake it.

Does it now turn on and go off correctly after 5 minutes please?

If not, please can you let me know the following:

What brand, size, model and class of SD card are you using please?
When and where was the SD card purchased please?
How often is the card usually formatted please?
Do you also have a rear camera please?

Kind regards,
Millie
Nextbase Technical Support
Hi Millie,

I visited the Nextbase booth while I attended the SEMA / AAPEX 2022 shows in Las Vegas, NV. As a result of the contact made at the Nextbase booth, I was sent the following:
  • 2 - 522GW dash cameras
  • 2 - 64GB Nextbase microSD cards
  • 1 - rear view camera
  • 1 - rear window camera
  • 1 - 2-wire hardwire kit
I've been bench testing the two 522GW dash cameras in my filming studio using the 2-wire hardwire kit and one of the cigarette lighter adapters (CLA) to power the two 522GW dash cameras. When I initially received the products, I removed the "problem" 522GW from the box and it seemed to work correctly. I started to prepare for the review of the 522GW and I pulled out both units and started my power consumption testing. The 522GW that originally worked in intelligent parking mode (IPM), now was behaving as I described in my previous post. The second 522GW worked correctly entering and staying in IPM.

This morning, I ran some additional tests. I tried swapping the microSD cards between dash cameras. The problem was still present. I used the CLA to power the "problem" 522GW and it still misbehaved. I moved the "Click & Go" windshield mount from the working 522GW to the "problem" 522GW and IPM started to work correctly.

I swapped the "Click & Go" mounts again and the "problem" 522GW was still working. I continued to look for a reason for the problem. All I could find was the "Click & Go" mount that was originally used with the "problem" 522GW does not get fully seated into the 522GW each time it's inserted. The end with the connection pins seems to stick out a very tiny amount unless you put some extra pressure on that end. The "Click & Go" mount from the other 522GW will snap into place (strong magnet) and it is fully seated each time.

For now, both 522GW dash cameras are properly entering and staying in IPM until an impact occurs.
 
Hello,
That's some really useful troubleshooting, thank you. It certainly sounds like the GPS mount is not connecting correctly to the camera which would cause the issue. Please can you use a cotton bud very lightly coated in an alcohol cleaner to clean the connectors on the mount and camera to ensure it's clean and free of any debris. Does this resolve the issue?
If not, if you compare the pins on both devices, do you see any differences between the cameras please?

Kind regards,
Millie
Nextbase Technical Support
 
Hello,
That's some really useful troubleshooting, thank you. It certainly sounds like the GPS mount is not connecting correctly to the camera which would cause the issue. Please can you use a cotton bud very lightly coated in an alcohol cleaner to clean the connectors on the mount and camera to ensure it's clean and free of any debris. Does this resolve the issue?
If not, if you compare the pins on both devices, do you see any differences between the cameras please?

Kind regards,
Millie
Nextbase Technical Support
I used a magnifying glass to examine both GPS mounts and I did not see any obvious obstruction. After I complete my power consumption tests, I'll take another look. The GPS mount from the second 522GW goes into socket on the first 522GW without any hesitation. There must be something slightly off with the "Click & Go" GPS mount provided with the first 522GW that is causing the fitment issue.
 
I'll get a replacement GPS mount sent to you then, I'll DM you directly for your details.

Kind regards,
Millie
Nextbase Technical Support
 
Yesterday, I spent some time in my very cold garage removing the dash cameras from the previous review. With that front windshield space freed up, I installed two Nextbase 522GW dash cameras. One with the rear window camera and the other with the rear view camera. It will be interesting to see how the video from the rear view camera (telephoto lens) picks up the road/vehicles behind my car. I have a long four door sedan and there is a good amount of distance between the rear view camera and the rear window of the car. The other 522GW has the traditionally cabled rear window camera connected to it. The round magnetic mount of the rear window camera might allow the camera to move around a bit while driving. I secured the cable coming out of the rear window camera so I hope the camera won't move around while driving.

CPL Filter

The 522GW has an integrated CPL filter. No need to purchase an extra accessory.

GPS Windshield Mount

The Click&Go Pro GPS windshield mount allows you to easily move the 522GW between vehicles. I do wish the ball socket portion of the mount would have additional tension (resistance to movement) because you can too easily move the position of the camera side of the mount in the windshield mount. It's not a loose fit, but it's also not a firm fit. Removing the camera from the mount, installing the camera on the mount or simply trying to adjust the aiming of the rear view camera (installed on the side of the front camera) can too easily change the position of the front camera.

Power Consumption Data

I updated post 2 of this thread with the power consumption data I gathered for the 522GW. Post #2 Link
 
Today, I drove my weekly grocery shopping trip route. When I checked the video from the two 522GW dash cameras, I found shaky video for the front camera and the rear view camera (which attached to the side of the front camera). I found there is a small amount of slop/free play in both "Click&Go" GPS mounts. The other dash cameras in the car do not have the issue (BlackVue DR900X-2CH Plus, VIOFO A119 Mini - HDR Off, VIOFO A119 Mini - HDR On). I was pleasantly surprised how good the rear view camera video looked (when it wasn't shaking).

I've reported my findings to my contact at "The Brand Amp" which should in turn pass it along to Nextbase. I was hoping to get a direct contact at Nextbase to discuss technical issues with, but that has not happened yet.

Here's a shaky example video from the rear view camera.

 
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I've posted quite a few times, over the years, about the issue with dashcams on stalks.

Both my Nextbase 402 and 412 suffered from it on less than perfect road surfaces.

That was my main reason for not changing my 412 to any series 2.
 
It’s a lot of extra weight to put on the mount (plug in rear camera). Are you using the sucker window mounts or the adhesive ones?
the plug-in is a bit unsightly in UK cars as it puts the main camera so far across the windscreen.
 
It’s a lot of extra weight to put on the mount (plug in rear camera). Are you using the sucker window mounts or the adhesive ones?
the plug-in is a bit unsightly in UK cars as it puts the main camera so far across the windscreen.
I'm using the adhesive "Click&Go" GPS windshield mount. The shaky video is present in my other 522GW which has the cable from the rear window camera as well. Last night, I was checking where the looseness is located and it appears to be in the ball socket mount itself. The magnetic mount on the front of the 522GW with the "Click&Go" mount has no play/slop in it at all. The GPS module where it clips into the plastic mount on the windshield glass feels solid as well.
 
I'm using the adhesive "Click&Go" GPS windshield mount. The shaky video is present in my other 522GW which has the cable from the rear window camera as well. Last night, I was checking where the looseness is located and it appears to be in the ball socket mount itself. The magnetic mount on the front of the 522GW with the "Click&Go" mount has no play/slop in it at all. The GPS module where it clips into the plastic mount on the windshield glass feels solid as well.
From the clip you provided, it looks like the cables are just trailing from front to back down centre of car, bundled together. normally cables would be secured within a couple of inches from the camera. As mine are and there is no wobble at all.
 
From the clip you provided, it looks like the cables are just trailing from front to back down centre of car, bundled together. normally cables would be secured within a couple of inches from the camera. As mine are and there is no wobble at all.
The rear view camera having a telephoto lens makes the cables you see in the video look like they're just behind the camera. The cables connected to the dash camera are secured to the front on the roof headliner and run down the center of the headliner to a location just behind the front seats where they come down to the center console. I run the power wires forward to the various connections I have in place from the numerous battery packs I have installed in my vehicle to power the dash cameras in the car. Any wires for rear mounted cameras, run rearward and up to the center of the rear window area. I review numerous dash cameras and I don't place all of the cables behind trim panels since many of them will only be in my car for the review. I run the cables in this manner to keep them out of my forward and side-to-side line of sight so a police officer cannot (should not) issue a citation for them blocking my line of sight.

The 522GW with the rear view camera (USB camera plugged into the side of the 522GW) only has the power connection which plugs into the Click&Go GPS mount which is solidly mounted to the front windshield. That portion of the dash camera mount is solid and not the source of the movement observed.

1677982210617.png1677982232655.png 1677982619536.png
 
Indeed I now see how you have configured things. Having watched the clip now a number of times, it does appear to be only the lower half of the screen suffering from the vibration and on closer inspection of the clip these goes appear to be a faint grey line, would you not agree?
 
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