Playback issues

ivanhoe

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I have been doing a few tests on a new 4k dash cam I recently purchased but am having a couple of Issues with it, as I got it from China I wasn't expecting much and the issues seem to be proving this, I have a dual port cigarette lighter mounted in the original lighter connection, I got the splitter because I sometimes take my computer with me and sometimes need to charge it from one of the splitters connections, the other connection houses the original dash cam, but when I use the new camera with the cable that comes as part of the package it makes all the noises as if starting up and finishing etc but every section of film is unplayable coming up with an error.
The splitter also has dual usb ports so if my phone battery goes flat while I'm out then I can charge it while driving, fortunately, both the phone and the new camera have the same type of connection and if I use the usb cable to run the new dashcam everything works fine and plays back with out any issues.
Apart from the camera only running for three minutes at a time then stopping for a second before continuing and I'm sure it's not 4k, has any one got any ideas why despite apparently working with the package cable, I have to use the phone charging cable to actually get it to work.
Thanks
PS it doesn't matter which connection I put it in the playback keep coming up with an error.
 
Power supply are often a course of problems, not least if you use other means then the provided ones with the camera, so if a camera act up and you use something else first thing should be to try the original power supply.
It can also be the other way around, though more rare, that the supplied PSU are broken or not sufficient.
4K are not true 4K in many cameras today, it is a camera with a 1080 or 1440p sensor which are then scaled up to 4K resolution in the camera, in which case the extra detail you would have with a true 4K camera you do not have.
It is normal for dashcams to only record 1-3-5-10 minute files, but there should not be any gap in between the segments, if you see that it might be a result of the maker of the camera asking too much of the hardware inside, maybe try and record 1440 or 1080p resolution instead and see if that make any change.

I would also test the memory card, these often get faked and that will have a result on their actual size and i think also speed.
 
For cams using a mini USB power port, best to test them using an at-home phone charger plugged into a wall outlet, or a well-charged powerbank with a known good cable. If it works good there but not in the car you've got a problem with the power supply in the car; if the cam still malfunctions you've got a problem with the cam ;)

USB cabling also matters. Avoid the "CCA" type (copper-clad aluminum) and use only those made with solid copper conductors as the CCA type may not be able to handle the current and it degrades over time anyway. If the cable specs do not clearly indicate that it is solid copper then it's CCA.

No cam can work correctly without enough clean power, and usually it's best to use the supplied PS to ensure reliable functioning, but with cheap cams these may not be very good, and with any cam the PS may be bad or go bad in time. The first step to problem diagnosis with dashcams is trying it with a known good powerr source. Do that as I mentioned (phone charger) then let us know the results. It will also help if you tell us which cam you've got.

Phil
 
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