Power Magic Pro Installation

HelloFromToronto

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hey guys,

I recently purchased a power magic pro, I'm having some difficulty installing it in my 2012 Honda Accord, I was hoping someone here could offer some advice.

I installed the PMP according to the included instructions, but the green light does not turn on and will not provide power regardeless of whether the car is on or off.


I used a test lamp to find the appropriate fuses.
I have tried wrapping the wires around both left and right leg(not at the same time) of the low profile mini fuse.
I also swapped out the low profile mini fuse for a regular mini fuse and wrapped around both left and right leg(not at the same time).

I have included a diagram of the fuse box:
i.imgur.com_uZxGV.jpg


Fuse 1 through 13 are off when the car is off.
Fuse 19 through 31 are always on.

I tried 13&31 and then 2&19.

I thought it may have been a faulty PMP but I installed it in my 1998 Honda Civic, and it works as it should.

I'm not sure what I am doing wrong here, any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Hi HelloFromToronto,

That is very strange since you were able to install it in the Civic. Perhaps others can be of more help but from the sounds of it you are installing correctly.
 
I'm having the same trouble.

I tried to install the Power Magic, and discovered that the low profile mini fuses were used in my Honda Civic 2007. I did put the wire along one of the legs of the low profile mini fuse, but the light won't turn on. However, it does spark when I put the wire where the fuse go, and the light does turn on for a fraction of a second. But it will not stay on.

I am planning to buy mini fuses and replace my low profile, but I'm not very confident if OP tried it and did not work.

I have selected fuse nr 32 for the ACC+ and nr 18 for the BATTERY as seen in this diagram:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs ... 00031A.pdf

I'm almost sure fuse 32 only goes hot when the ignition is turned on, and nr 18 is always on.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys,

I'd like to update everyone on the installation status.

I believe the issue I was having was due to a faulty connection between the PMP wires and the low profile mini fuse.
The small size of the low profile mini fuse make it difficult to wrap the wire securely around the legs.

My 1998 Civic uses regular mini fuses, so I was able to achieve a secure connection.
When I tried using regular mini fuses in place of the low profile mini fuses in the Accord, the fuses were difficult to re-insert once the wire was wrapped around it.

My solution was to use an "Add a Circuit" with regular mini fuses.
i.imgur.com_LYTvw.jpg


@Flash:

I hope this method works out for you.
I think that maybe you should double check whether you have selected the appropriate fuses for this application. I noticed that you have selected the "Headlight High Beam Main" fuse, When I used the test lamp on the equivalent Accord fuse, I noticed that the power would only be on if I turned my headlights on.

Have you considered tapping into one of the extra fuse slots, the ones that are unused?

As you can see from the diagram in the first post, I used slot 13 and 31, both were unused.
 
Thanks for the reply. So where did you buy the add-a-circuit from and how much did it cost? I looked at crappy tire, and they seem to have something similiar for 15$ (which is way to much if you ask me for a wire).

unfortunately I do not have a test lamp, so I just guessed a Headlight High Beam would be an always hot circuit. Is there a way to find out which fuse numbers are always on, and which are not, like you just did for your accord (in your case 1 through 13)

Also, in the case of add-a-circuit, did you bought an extra fuse for the ACC+ and BATTERY and added it to the add-a-circuit?
 
Flash said:
Thanks for the reply. So where did you buy the add-a-circuit from and how much did it cost? I looked at crappy tire, and they seem to have something similiar for 15$ (which is way to much if you ask me for a wire).

unfortunately I do not have a test lamp, so I just guessed a Headlight High Beam would be an always hot circuit. Is there a way to find out which fuse numbers are always on, and which are not, like you just did for your accord (in your case 1 through 13)

Also, in the case of add-a-circuit, did you bought an extra fuse for the ACC+ and BATTERY and added it to the add-a-circuit?

Yes, they have them available at some Canadian tire stores for ~$15 each ( you would require 2), you may want to check availability at your local store.

You can also find them on eBay for ~$10 each.

I think it would be best to verify which are always on/off and not just assume. I used a test lamp (~$1- $5), you can also use a multimeter to check.

In my case I used the empty fuse slots.
I used the fuses which were included with the add a circuit. I used 1x7.5a and 1x2a for each add a circuit.
Keep in mind, if you decide to use an add a circuit, the instructions state that it should only be used with circuits that require less than 10a.
 
Thanks. I might check out ebay too. I saw one, which was for low profile mini fuse for 4$, might give that a shot. I was going to give it a shot by just buying some mini fuses and replace my low profile, but you mentioned you tried it, and it was very difficult to re-insert them once the wire was tied around one of the legs.

By circuits that require less than 10A, you mean I should chose the fuse numbers which require 7.5A fuses right (or use the empty slots)?

Once I get the add-a-ciruit I will update my outcome. Unfortunately that might take a while if I end up ordering it from ebay.

EDIT: I have ordered a low profile add-a-circuit. That way I hope I can use my existing fuses, and then just buy 2 more 1A low profile mini-fuses
 
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