Powering dashcam in parking mode

[Imran123]

I'm looking for ways to power my dashcam (Blackvue DR600) while parked in my BMW.
Because the car is new I dont really want to touch any of the internal wiring or fuse box incase I void the warranty.

I would like to know what my options are?

From doing some research I have found the Anypower T-Power C Battery Pack as a solution but its quite pricey nor have I found a UK Supplier for it.

I also read on the forum people using USB Battery packs? Anyone that is doing can share their experiences?

 

[albertson]

Take a look in the forum directory on "batteries and capacitors". Lots of users write about their experiences.
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/forums/batteries-and-capacitors.87/

 

[Mtz]

Maybe you are lucky too.

enjoy,
Mtz

 

[Street Guardian USA]

Take a look in the forum directory on "batteries and capacitors". Lots of users write about their experiences.
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/forums/batteries-and-capacitors.87/

I was thinking the same thing, this one specifically seems interesting enough.
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/t-power-plus-mobile-uninterruptible-power-supply.8376/

 

[Imran123]

I was thinking the same thing, this one specifically seems interesting enough.
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/t-power-plus-mobile-uninterruptible-power-supply.8376/

Yup I have seen this, however I'm unable to find a UK seller for the item.

 

[Mtz]

Did you read from my link? Do you think is possible to find an empty fuse slot into the fusebox or to add some fuse by-pass to your temporized cigarette lighter? It is not about wiring because you an take out anytime the fuse from that location.

enjoy,
Mtz

 

[Imran123]

Did you read from my link? Do you think is possible to find an empty fuse slot into the fusebox or to add some fuse by-pass to your temporized cigarette lighter? It is not about wiring because you an take out anytime the fuse from that location.

enjoy,
Mtz

Thanks for your response Mtz, I want to stay away from powering the dashcam permanently from the battery due to Battery Warnings being displayed in BMW iDrive system. I believe its quite common even with the power cutoff device like Power Magic Pro.

 

[BMbler]

Thanks for your response Mtz, I want to stay away from powering the dashcam permanently from the battery due to Battery Warnings being displayed in BMW iDrive system. I believe its quite common even with the power cutoff device like Power Magic Pro.

just copy-paste from another thread
BTW I hatched up plan already as how much I will be using it
in the car I already have 12v- 2 USB 5v splitter,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121288029291 From fuse box- will (would?) connect to
(1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151445907328
and have spare hardwired charger for phone (2), whilst I could re'mount DVR in to more easily accessible place, so I could reach buttons to set as Parking Guard.

 

[Imran123]

just copy-paste from another thread
BTW I hatched up plan already as how much I will be using it
in the car I already have 12v- 2 USB 5v splitter,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121288029291 From fuse box- will (would?) connect to
(1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151445907328
and have spare hardwired charger for phone (2), whilst I could re'mount DVR in to more easily accessible place, so I could reach buttons to set as Parking Guard.

So is the dashcam powered via the splitter or the battery pack? Or both by you manually switching sources?

 

[BMbler]

So is the dashcam powered via the splitter or the battery pack? Or both by you manually switching sources?

The idea is to power via both! Converter to battery; battery to DVR
whilst driving etc adapter keeps on charging battery, once stopped- dash-Cam powered (4 hrs + ) from battery...
That's the idea I have

MIND (asking) more tech figures knowledgeable peeps to correct , if such would be wrong in some ways?

 

[sofaspud]

I'm looking for ways to power my dashcam (Blackvue DR600) while parked in my BMW.
Because the car is new I dont really want to touch any of the internal wiring or fuse box incase I void the warranty.

I have a similar situation.

Thanks for your response Mtz, I want to stay away from powering the dashcam permanently from the battery due to Battery Warnings being displayed in BMW iDrive system. I believe its quite common even with the power cutoff device like Power Magic Pro.

I expect this to become more of an issue with newer cars where the battery management systems can sometimes sense the electrical system is still drawing current & thus not shutting off other circuits as well.
There should be somewhere on the car electrical system where the likes of trackers & alarms can be powered from that will overcome this potential issue. The problem being this is the kind of info that doesn't tend to be publicised.
Still doesn't get over the warranty concerns though

just copy-paste from another thread
BTW I hatched up plan already as how much I will be using it
in the car I already have 12v- 2 USB 5v splitter,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121288029291 From fuse box- will (would?) connect to
(1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151445907328
and have spare hardwired charger for phone (2), whilst I could re'mount DVR in to more easily accessible place, so I could reach buttons to set as Parking Guard.

I had a similar idea, & bought an Epctek 50Ah (not) power brick for £13.05 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B00GNP541QWhen I measured it I found the net usable capacity (from a full charge) while drawing 2.5A was approx 14Ah. When the power brick was depleted then it took 15hours to fully recharge. Until the power brick was turned on (on/off button pressed) there was a DC path to the battery cells, giving just the cell voltage on the o/p (& possibly no discharge monitoring).
The main concern for my intended use however, was that as I would be powering more than 1 camera the current draw from the pack would be greater than the possible charging rate (1A on my unit, 1.2A on yours).

If you are going down this route then powering the camera(s) from just the car supply while the car is running would help.
I did initially think of a relay or switch to toggle the camera supply between the car & the battery pack o/p to remove any load on the brick while on charge to maximise the charge rate, but in my case it wouldn't be enough to overcome the inherently slow charging rate (limited by the charge control ccts in the power brick).

 

[BMbler]

I have a similar situation.


I expect this to become more of an issue with newer cars where the battery management systems can sometimes sense the electrical system is still drawing current & thus not shutting off other circuits as well.
There should be somewhere on the car electrical system where the likes of trackers & alarms can be powered from that will overcome this potential issue. The problem being this is the kind of info that doesn't tend to be publicised.
Still doesn't get over the warranty concerns though


I had a similar idea, & bought an Epctek 50Ah (not) power brick for £13.05 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B00GNP541QWhen I measured it I found the net usable capacity (from a full charge) while drawing 2.5A was approx 14Ah. When the power brick was depleted then it took 15hours to fully recharge. Until the power brick was turned on (on/off button pressed) there was a DC path to the battery cells, giving just the cell voltage on the o/p (& possibly no discharge monitoring).
The main concern for my intended use however, was that as I would be powering more than 1 camera the current draw from the pack would be greater than the possible charging rate (1A on my unit, 1.2A on yours).

If you are going down this route then powering the camera(s) from just the car supply while the car is running would help.
I did initially think of a relay or switch to toggle the camera supply between the car & the battery pack o/p to remove any load on the brick while on charge to maximise the charge rate, but in my case it wouldn't be enough to overcome the inherently slow charging rate (limited by the charge control ccts in the power brick).

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/shadow-gt680w.2311/page-42#post-109954
Hmhmhm... means... aright then in my(?) configuration I'd have to use power splitter for DVR when driving, but then would HAVE to plug in to battery when parked and whatever (however long for) happens- let it be that...
or to go by the way more sophisticated route posted by Pier28 decisions, decisions...

 

[sofaspud]

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/shadow-gt680w.2311/page-42#post-109954
Hmhmhm... means... aright then in my(?) configuration I'd have to use power splitter for DVR when driving, but then would HAVE to plug in to battery when parked and whatever (however long for) happens- let it be that...
or to go by the way more sophisticated route posted by Pier28 decisions, decisions...

I don't know what the current draw is for your camera. Should really be discussing power (Wh) rather than Ah.
For simplicity, if the net available current for charging is less that that used during the battery powered parking times then the brick will eventually go flat.

Interesting that the UPS device linked above claims 1.5 hr (fully) charged time, yet in the specs it also says 4 hours... although it does list i/p as 3.5A @12v which is much greater than the devices we've mentioned here

A simplistic approach, but would achieve similar to what the Tpower device gives:

As I said it's a simplistic approach, but given you already have most of the above it would maximise the power available from the internal charge ccts to actually recharge the battery cells.
If you used a relay then the relay coil is powered via the car system, when on, it operates the relay making the contact to the NO to feed the supply from the car (5v splitter) to the camera.
When the car is switched off then the relay drops, making the NC connection & the power brick supplies the camera.
Of course, you mentioned you have to switch the camera into parking, so the relay could just be a toggle switch that needs to be manually operated.
All this does is avoid the need for you to plug/unplug the connections everytime & avoid 'robbing' some of the charging current to power the camera.

 

[BMbler]

I don't know what the current draw is for your camera. Should really be discussing power (Wh) rather than Ah.
For simplicity, if the net available current for charging is less that that used during the battery powered parking times then the brick will eventually go flat.

Interesting that the UPS device linked above claims 1.5 hr (fully) charged time, yet in the specs it also says 4 hours... although it does list i/p as 3.5A @12v which is much greater than the devices we've mentioned here

A simplistic approach, but would achieve similar to what the Tpower device gives:
View attachment 10352
As I said it's a simplistic approach, but given you already have most of the above it would maximise the power available from the internal charge ccts to actually recharge the battery cells.
If you used a relay then the relay coil is powered via the car system, when on, it operates the relay making the contact to the NO to feed the supply from the car (5v splitter) to the camera.
When the car is switched off then the relay drops, making the NC connection & the power brick supplies the camera.
Of course, you mentioned you have to switch the camera into parking, so the relay could just be a toggle switch that needs to be manually operated.
All this does is avoid the need for you to plug/unplug the connections everytime & avoid 'robbing' some of the charging current to power the camera.

Yeh ... problem with the Chinese products is what claimed and then what it really is....
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/shadow-gt680w.2311/page-39#post-109056
200ma... meaning 4 hrs at the best, but in parking mode (slop) fps, hopefully lesser power consumption....

 

[roadbug]

Something I just happened to think of is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B002X6VXL4I recently bought one to carry in my car when travelling; they are great to take camping too. If you bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B000Z0HVHAyou could set the booster in the boot/trunk of your car and run the wire to where ever you needed. While not as "elegant" as a built in system or some of the other ones talked about it does have the advantage of being used for more than one purpose. You get stranded you can jump your car to start it, or someone eases. You can pump up tires with it and run or recharge a whole list of other devices powered by 5V or 12V. There are a lot of these available in different makes and models at auto parts stores and prices can be reasonable.