Powerucc Constant Power Cable

cxg2827

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I'm about to purchase the PanoramaII, but I'm not too sure about the constant power cable that can be bundled with it. Is this a good option to go with, or would I be better off buying a Blackvue Power Magic?
 
I'm about to purchase the PanoramaII, but I'm not too sure about the constant power cable that can be bundled with it. Is this a good option to go with, or would I be better off buying a Blackvue Power Magic?

My feeling exactly. I decided to buy the camera with no extra options (no power box, no GPS). Regarding the GPS, I have no particular need for it. And regarding the power box, reportedly those things are still not working correctly. The cut-off voltage seems to be very low in order not to cause deep cycling in your car's battery. I'm still waiting around for one that has configurable cut-off voltages of 12.4 or higher.
 
Just an FYI, I got this reply from shpkorea on eBay about the constant power cable:

"Power cable for panoramaII is Multi Safer. shutoff voltage : 11.6v, 11.8v, 12.0v, 12.2v. shutoff time : 6h, 12h, 24h, unlimited."
 
shutoff voltage : 11.6v, 11.8v, 12.0v, 12.2v. shutoff time : 6h, 12h, 24h, unlimited."

Yeah, those cut-off voltages might be too low for your car battery. At least in my case, if my battery hits 12.2V it's already too low. The shutoff timer might be the only useful feature but I would personally look for options including 48 and 72 hours.
 
I'm not getting all that... A fully charged (running) car battery may hit 13-14 volts if I'm not mistaken. If you have a power cord that shuts off the device at 12v, where's the problem? Obviously, I'm not an electrical whiz...

My cig lighter is constant on. I'm wondering if there's a way to alter that to only on with ignition on...
 
I'm not getting all that... A fully charged (running) car battery may hit 13-14 volts if I'm not mistaken. If you have a power cord that shuts off the device at 12v, where's the problem? Obviously, I'm not an electrical whiz...

Yes, you're correct. I'm no expert myself, I'm just repeating what I've read multiple times over several forums and websites. For example, this article mentions:

Generally speaking there are two different types of lead acid battery, Starting and Deep Cycle. If a starting battery is routinely deep cycled (discharged below 20%-50% of max capacity) it will generally fail after 30-150 cycles. The same starting battery will last for thousands of cycles if it is just used normally (2% - 5% discharge).

Assuming the %s and voltages we're talking about are correct, I don't want my camera to discharge my car's battery beyond 5%. So 95% of the 13V you mentioned would be 12.35V. Hence, I don't want to use a battery cutoff device that goes lower than 12.4V. In theory, you could go way lower, but I don't want to be changing my car's battery every year or two just because of the "extra work" coming from my dashcam.

My cig lighter is constant on. I'm wondering if there's a way to alter that to only on with ignition on...
If you're planning a more permanent type of installation, you can avoid using your cig outlet completely, leaving it free for other purposes. Check this installation thread for detailed ideas. You just need a female cig outlet adapter and an add-a-circuit or add-a-fuse that plugs directly into your car's fuse box. Most cars have a fuse box inside the cabin so that makes for a very easy installation.
 
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My car battery seems to sit at about 12.3V. If the car is running remember the alternator is running too so you will see a voltage of about 14-14.7V, more or less. Next time I need a battery I'll look for one of those Optima or similar type of batteries.
 
I knew I had seen the voltage chart somewhere, I just didn't remember it was on this same site. If you check the Battery Discharge Prevention article, you can see a chart detailing average voltages for "normal" batteries depending on ambient temperature. In my case, it gets really hot down here so I still need a relatively high cutoff (~12.4V) which is not yet offered by current devices.
 
If you're planning a more permanent type of installation, you can avoid using your cig outlet completely, leaving it free for other purposes. Check this installation thread for detailed ideas. You just need a female cig outlet adapter and an add-a-circuit or add-a-fuse that plugs directly into your car's fuse box. Most cars have a fuse box inside the cabin so that makes for a very easy installation.

Thanks for that link. I don't want to cut up the cig lighter adapter that came with the unit as in the DIY video. I want to retain it so I can make the camera portable.

In your link, I see people have purchased female socket adapters, tie into a circuit that only comes only with ignition. Then, I guess, they use the cig lighter adapter to plug into that. Am I understanding the process correctly?
 
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I see people have purchased female socket adapters, tie into a circuit that only comes only with ignition. Then, I guess, they use the cig lighter adapter to plug into that. Am I understanding the process correctly?

Yes, that is correct. Once you install the female adapter, it doesn't require any modification of your existing dashcam charger. You can install the female cig outlet in any part of your car, and then just use your dashcam's charger exactly like you would use it with your car's regular cig outlet.

I hid the female adapter and my cam's charger inside the fuse box:

fusebox-jpg.1916


In my case, I decided to wire it to an always-on circuit, but you can tap into a circuit that only comes on with ignition.
 
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Yes, that is correct. Once you install the female adapter, it doesn't require any modification of your existing dashcam charger. You can install the female cig outlet in any part of your car, and then just use your dashcam's charger exactly like you would use it with your car's regular cig outlet.

I hid the female adapter and my cam's charger inside the fuse box:

fusebox-jpg.1916


In my case, I decided to wire it to an always-on circuit, but you can tap into a circuit that only comes on with ignition.


Wow...nice job! I think I am going to copy your install. Best form of flattery...
 
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So I took my car to my stereo installer to add the female cig outlet and tap a fuse like Gabolinche did in his install.

They told me they preferred not to install at the fuse box because of errant power draws. They instead will use the female cig outlet and tap into the ignition wires instead.

Do they have a valid argument or are they just feeding me a line of garbage. Install cost was the same either way so there is no financial incentive for them one way or the other.
 
They told me they preferred not to install at the fuse box because of errant power draws. They instead will use the female cig outlet and tap into the ignition wires instead.

Do you drive a BMW by any chance?
 
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...depends on which day it is...:cool:

What's your point?

Errant power draws...that's probably the reason why they installed it where they did.
Some BMW's have had issues with battery drain. Don't know if it's IBS related or not.
 
It's actually more work to tap into the ignition wires, but probably more secure. However, since those wires are capable of supplying high currents, they should add a fuse inline with the outlet. Honestly, it's overkill for a typical dashcam and a fuse tap device should cost $5-$10 at the most. The hardest part is probably locating the best fuse location to tap. You'll want to avoid, ABS, SRS, ECU, head/tail lights. Power locks/seats, dome lights or security system may be good candidates. Basically, you want to avoid circuits which prevents the car from moving or causes a safety issue if the fuse blows or the tap vibrates loose.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...=google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=5170038

KuoH

They told me they preferred not to install at the fuse box because of errant power draws. They instead will use the female cig outlet and tap into the ignition wires instead.

Do they have a valid argument or are they just feeding me a line of garbage. Install cost was the same either way so there is no financial incentive for them one way or the other.
 
Errant power draws...that's probably the reason why they installed it where they did.
Some BMW's have had issues with battery drain. Don't know if it's IBS related or not.

I think what you are referring to is a problem inherent in what BMW calls the CANBUS system. Not sure about their cars but in their motorcycles, adding an electronic accessory sends this computer (canbus) into a tizzy as it regulates all power draws and doesn't like it.

In this case, the vehicle I installed to isn't canbus driven, but it was a good guess on your part... Thanks.
 
I agree and that's how I have done it on other vehicles countless times ( the fuse tap device)... I just couldn't understand his reasoning and since I'm not an electronics expert, I figured maybe he knew something I didn't...

But, as they say..."if you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull****.."



It's actually more work to tap into the ignition wires, but probably more secure. However, since those wires are capable of supplying high currents, they should add a fuse inline with the outlet. Honestly, it's overkill for a typical dashcam and a fuse tap device should cost $5-$10 at the most. The hardest part is probably locating the best fuse location to tap. You'll want to avoid, ABS, SRS, ECU, head/tail lights. Power locks/seats, dome lights or security system may be good candidates. Basically, you want to avoid circuits which prevents the car from moving or causes a safety issue if the fuse blows or the tap vibrates loose.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...=google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=5170038

KuoH
 
I think what you are referring to is a problem inherent in what BMW calls the CANBUS system. Not sure about their cars but in their motorcycles, adding an electronic accessory sends this computer (canbus) into a tizzy as it regulates all power draws and doesn't like it.

In this case, the vehicle I installed to isn't canbus driven, but it was a good guess on your part... Thanks.

What I was referring to was BMW's IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) that may cut power to a fuse if it finds it's drawing power when it should not be.
CANBUS is not BMW specific and used in many other makes as well. I am using a standard add-a-circuit (fuse tap) in a CANBUS car (not BMW) at the moment without any issues (self installed).
 
What I was referring to was BMW's IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) that may cut power to a fuse if it finds it's drawing power when it should not be.
CANBUS is not BMW specific and used in many other makes as well. I am using a standard add-a-circuit (fuse tap) in a CANBUS car (not BMW) at the moment without any issues (self installed).

Got it. I see. Thank you for the clarification. My BMW motorcycle does have Canbus. I was not familiar with IBS.
 
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