Problems after upgrade to firmware V.1.011

[Mons Meg]

This morning I installed a brand new DR750X-2CH Plus on one of my vehicles. After the installation, the unit powered up and began recording seemingly without problems, and as part of the commissioning procedure I connected to the camera from my Android phone. As soon as I connected the system told me that there was a firmware upgrade I should install, I don't know what version of firmware the camera came installed with (it had by now been running for about 15 minutes seemingly without problems), but the version I was recommended to install is V.1.011. According to the Blackvue downloads site, this is the latest version for this camera.

The over-the-air installation of the firmware seemed to work without problems, and then it all went wrong!

The camera restarted (as expected) but unfortunately has now been restarting every 40 seconds or so ever since. It gives the "Blackvue for your safe driving" message, followed by the "Starting normal recording" message, and repeats this every 40 seconds or so, over and over.

I have removed the microSD card (the Blackvue branded card supplied with the camera), reformatted it, downloaded the firmware via a PC, installed it on the card, reinstalled the card. Same result, continual restarts. I have tried a Blackvue microSD card from another camera, with the same result.

I've checked that the battery voltage is good (the vehicle is connected to a shore-supply with a smart charger, and the voltage is good).

I don't think there is any way to revert to the earlier firmware since I don't know what version it was and don't have a copy.

I am now extremely frustrated with it, it is proving to be an expensive lemon, and before I rip it out and send it back to Blackvue I thought I would see if anyone here had had similar problems and resolved them, or had any good ideas.

I would be very grateful for any suggestions!

 

[rcg530]

I've been successfully running v1.011 in two different DR750X-2CH Plus dash cameras since it was released. I do have a Google Drive folder with several versions of the DR750X Plus dash camera firmware. I would recommend no version below v1.009 since v1.008 was replaced after just a few days and v1.007 was a version that caused numerous problems with the incorrect use of the parking mode G-sensor settings during the first normal mode recording session. The files in my Google Drive folder are copies of the files I downloaded from BlackVue, but since they're not coming directly from BlackVue, use at your own risk.

BlackVue DR750X Plus - Google Drive

drive.google.com

Version v1.011 firmware requires the following versions of the following apps:

BlackVue App: Android v3.35 / iOS v3.34 and up.
BlackVue Viewer: Windows v3.12 / Mac v3.13 and up.

Before downgrading the firmware, please make sure you have BlackVue Windows Viewer v3.12 or BlackVue Mac Viewer 3.13 installed on your computer.

Use the format memory card feature within the SD Card Viewer portion of the app to prepare the microSD card, then copy entire directory tree/file structure from the firmware zip file to the root of the microSD card's file system. After that has been copied to the memory card, there should be a "BlackVue" top level directory and under that should be three directories: "Config", "Record" and "System". Dismount/unmount the microSD card from your computer and insert the freshly prepped memory card into the DR750X Plus front camera. Make sure the power cable if fully seated in the power port of the camera since you had to remove it to move the cover to access the memory card slot in the camera. Power it up and let it upgrade the firmware and reboot the camera. Hopefully it will not behave as you had stated before with v1.011.

If the above steps don't work with firmware v1.011, step down a version to v1.010 and try again. And if v1.010 doesn't work, try v1.009.

If the DR750X Plus continues to misbehave as you stated, you may have a microSD card that is defective in some manner and it may be worth trying a different memory card.

 

[Mons Meg]

Very many thanks for your extremely helpful reply, and especially for making the earlier versions of firmware available to me.

I have now tried four different microSD cards (the Blackvue one which came with the new camera, and two different Blackvue cards plus a Sandisk card, all of which I know work with my DR650 camera), and I have tried each card with versions V1.009, V1.010, and V1.011 of the firmware. In every case the camera goes through the "upgrading, please do not disconnect the power" stage, then the "restarting" stage, then the "Blackvue for your safe driving" stage, then the "starting normal recording" stage, whereupon all three LEDs go out and it starts looping endlessly from "Blackvue for your safe driving".

It is hard to avoid the conclusion that my brand new camera has developed a fault. I have emailed the supplier (the official UK supplier) and hopefully will hear from them tomorrow. Since I bought it less than a week ago and only installed it today, I rather hope that a new one will be forthcoming.

All the same your help, and especially your firmware archives, is gratefully received, many thanks.

I rather think that my next question on this forum will be what other two-camera systems with a weather-proof external rear camera are available, not made by Blackvue!

 

[chili]

this sounds like the problem you are having Youtube vid below

 

[Mons Meg]

It does sound exactly the like the same problem. I have to say that that guy knows how to make a boring video! There are two in the series, the first describing the problem and the second about the fix. Sadly he doesn't give any indication what the fix is, just that it involved sending it back to Blackvue in Korea not once, but twice. He also said it was a "fun experience" which is odd. I have spent over £500 on a dashcam which does the same thing and I am not finding it fun at all!

Latest in my saga is that I emailed Blackvue UK on Monday and immediately had a reply (presumably automated) thanking me for contacting Blackvue support and promising that I would hear back from them "within 24 hours". It is now Thursday, some 74 hours after that email, and I have heard absolutely nothing from them. Even allowing for the public holiday on Monday this is very poor service.

It would appear that Blackvue UK's after-sales service is abut as reliable as and of similar quality to the dashcam itself! Very frustrating since this is a brand new camera and certainly wasn't cheap.

Does anyone know of a non-Blackvue dashcam with an internal front camera and external rear camera (I don't have a rear window so it has to be mounted outside the vehicle) that actually works reliably? I would greatly appreciate any recommendations. Two-cam systems seem commonplace, but external rear camera systems seem to be scarce.

Also if anyone knows any way to get a response - of any kind - out of Blackvue UK support, I'd love to hear it.

 

[chili]

Some are saying its caused by using a 3rd party sd card others are saying that heat ie sun is cooking something inside the camera

 

[rcg530]

I just ran a test with a DR750X-2CH Plus dash cam running v1.011 firmware. With the microSD card installed, it powers up and starts recording and I don't seem to get any strange rebooting.

I ran another test which involved powering down the DR750X-2CH Plus and then removing the microSD card. I powered it up again and as expected it announced "No SD Card. Restarting" on a continuous basis. With it powered down, I reinserted the microSD card and powered it up again and it returned to normal operation.

When something has been recently installed and having problems, one of the first things that needs to be checked and eliminated are the powers and ground connectivity to the device. The DR750X-2CH Plus uses the newer style plug connector, so make sure you're using either the three wire hardwiring cable or the cigarette lighter power adapter provided with the DR750X-2CH Plus.

Make sure the 12-volt power is stable (in the 12 to 14.5 volt range for a 12-volt based system in the vehicle) and that the ground side of the connection is good (multimeter time or use a 12-volt test light). If the power and ground being used for the DR750X-2CH Plus are "good", then it's looking like you may have a defective unit.

 

[Mons Meg]

Sound advice, thank you.

The microSD cards I've tried are the one supplied with the camera, plus two other Blackburn cards and a SanDisk, and all four work in my other camera, a DR650. The power is also good, while attempting to commission the camera I had the vehicle engine stopped and the battery hooked up to a smart charger, when I checked the feed with a scope-meter it was excellent for both voltage and ripple.

The 750 replaced a 650 which has worked for a number of years, and is in the same place on the screen and the power lead (which is different for the 750 compared to the 650) is connected to the same place on the car. It was also a cool day!

I'm pretty sure that it is a faulty unit, but in a positive development since my last post I have, after a second email to Blackburn support, had a reply and should be able to send the unit back for investigation and replacement. I will update this thread with any news.

 

[Mons Meg]

Doh! Blackburn should of course been Blackvue in my preceding post, gotta love predictive text!

 

[Mons Meg]

To update this saga:

Blackvue, to its credit, supplied a brand new, fully sealed, replacement dashcam within 72 hours of receiving the defective one back. A pretty good response, I thought.

Today however I unboxed and powered up the replacement camera (before installing it, this time) and found it does exactly the same thing as the previous one, i.e., just continually restarts, over and over.

I will be posting this one back to Blackvue UK on Tuesday. I am becoming very disillusioned with Blackvue cameras.

 

[rcg530]

To update this saga:

Blackvue, to its credit, supplied a brand new, fully sealed, replacement dashcam within 72 hours of receiving the defective one back. A pretty good response, I thought.

Today however I unboxed and powered up the replacement camera (before installing it, this time) and found it does exactly the same thing as the previous one, i.e., just continually restarts, over and over.

I will be posting this one back to Blackvue UK on Tuesday. I am becoming very disillusioned with Blackvue cameras.

I sorry to hear you're still having a problem even with a replacement DR750X-2CH Plus dash camera. I have two DR750X-2CH Plus dash cameras (manufactured last year - 2021) that do not exhibit this behavior with v1.011 firmware installed. I guess there certainly could be something wrong with a recent production batch of these dash cameras. As long as the power source you're connecting it to has good/steady power and ground and you've tried multiple microSD cards, then it's likely the dash camera (again).

 

[Mons Meg]

It is frustrating! I did mysel suspect a batch problem since the serial number of the new one is three units later than the previous, so there can be little doubt that they are from the same batch.

The other possibility which crossed my mind is that the boot firmware is different for the "truck" version (which mine is) and which I imagine is less common than the version with an "indoor" rear camera. I don't see why it would be, and the certainly with the DR650 the only difference seemed to be the rear camera itself.

The power source I used for testing was a fully-charged battery, and was stable and reliable (no other load connected to it). The microSD was the one supplied with the camera with the firmware supplied with the camera.

 

[chili]

I installed my dr750x 2ch plus today, and like yours it immediately went into upgrade mode, i am happy with the camera's looks and the quality of its recordings however i do feel like i have made a mistake in buying them, my car is a mercedes cla and the battery is 6mths old when i tested the voltage it was 12.03 volts engine off, the dashcam will not stay in parking mode it goes into parking mode and almost instantly shuts down i have set the low battery cut off to 11.8v I am not paying over £350 for one of blackvues battery packs nor am i going to replace a perfectly good car battery so i guess i will just not bother with the parking mode. The app is hit and miss using my iphone as a wifi hotspot i am told i have no internet connection when i do, when trying to connect to the cloud service they offer. Maybe in time things will improve but as of this moment these camera's are not worth the £400 price tag.

 

[rcg530]

I installed my dr750x 2ch plus today, and like yours it immediately went into upgrade mode, i am happy with the camera's looks and the quality of its recordings however i do feel like i have made a mistake in buying them, my car is a mercedes cla and the battery is 6mths old when i tested the voltage it was 12.03 volts engine off, the dashcam will not stay in parking mode it goes into parking mode and almost instantly shuts down i have set the low battery cut off to 11.8v I am not paying over £350 for one of blackvues battery packs nor am i going to replace a perfectly good car battery so i guess i will just not bother with the parking mode. The app is hit and miss using my iphone as a wifi hotspot i am told i have no internet connection when i do, when trying to connect to the cloud service they offer. Maybe in time things will improve but as of this moment these camera's are not worth the £400 price tag.

A car voltage level of 12.03 volts is very low for a car battery unless there are active modules in the car still consuming power after turning off the engine / charging system. A fully charged automotive battery has a voltage of 12.60 volts (6 cells x 2.1 volts per cell). A brand new battery tends to have a higher voltage level (charging system off) nearing 12.6 volts, but as the battery ages (even a few months old) a common voltage level is 12.2 to 12.4 volts. I would measure the voltage level after the car has been off for at least 30 minutes (or longer). Be aware that opening anything on the car will likely wake up the modules to some degree and that will invalidate the voltage level reading you're trying to obtain with everything in sleep mode.

Just after turning off the engine, various modules in a car will continue to be "awake" and consume power for some amount of time until they are commanded by gateway/monitoring module or their own programing has an idle timeout period. Some cars have modules that go to sleep within 5 to 10 minutes, but some Ford cars will take 40 to 50 minutes to have all modules go to sleep.

For the configuration of the DR750X-2CH Plus, it sounds like you have the configuration setup for parking mode, but just in case here's what I would check:

• Recording > Parking mode recording = "Motion & Impact detection" or "Time lapse"
• System > Battery protection = On
• System > Battery protection > Low voltage-cutoff = On
• System > Battery protection > Low voltage-cutoff > Passenger Vehicle = 11.8V
  • There will be an allowed voltage variance for this setting of approx. +/- 0.1 volt (11.8 = 11.7 to 11.9)
• System > Battery protection > Cut-off timer = On or Off depending on your needs

If using the 3-wire hardwiring harness to power the DR750X Plus, confirm that the BATT+ (yellow wire) is connected to a power source that truly supplies power after the engine is turned off. If using the cigarette lighter power adapter make sure the power port remains powered after turning off the engine.

 

[chili]

A car voltage level of 12.03 volts is very low for a car battery unless there are active modules in the car still consuming power after turning off the engine / charging system. A fully charged automotive battery has a voltage of 12.60 volts (6 cells x 2.1 volts per cell). A brand new battery tends to have a higher voltage level (charging system off) nearing 12.6 volts, but as the battery ages (even a few months old) a common voltage level is 12.2 to 12.4 volts. I would measure the voltage level after the car has been off for at least 30 minutes (or longer). Be aware that opening anything on the car will likely wake up the modules to some degree and that will invalidate the voltage level reading you're trying to obtain with everything in sleep mode.

Just after turning off the engine, various modules in a car will continue to be "awake" and consume power for some amount of time until they are commanded by gateway/monitoring module or their own programing has an idle timeout period. Some cars have modules that go to sleep within 5 to 10 minutes, but some Ford cars will take 40 to 50 minutes to have all modules go to sleep.

For the configuration of the DR750X-2CH Plus, it sounds like you have the configuration setup for parking mode, but just in case here's what I would check:

• Recording > Parking mode recording = "Motion & Impact detection" or "Time lapse"
• System > Battery protection = On
• System > Battery protection > Low voltage-cutoff = On
• System > Battery protection > Low voltage-cutoff > Passenger Vehicle = 11.8V
  • There will be an allowed voltage variance for this setting of approx. +/0 0.1 volt (11.8 = 11.7 to 11.9)
• System > Battery protection > Cut-off timer = On or Off depending on your needs

If using the 3-wire hardwiring harness to power the DR750X Plus, confirm that the BATT+ (yellow wire) is connected to a power source that truly supplies power after the engine is turned off. If using the cigarette lighter power adapter make sure the power port remains powered after turning off the engine.

cheers for the reply, am not really sure if anything is active in my car once its off, only had it since feb this year, when i did measure the voltage today, monday the car had been sitting since saturday afternoon doing nothing. I fitted the cams on saturday and went out to check them today thats when i saw that no parking video's had been captured (setting set to time lapse) the unit is connected using the hardwire cable i have the earth earthed, the batt cable in a fuse tap using fuse 74 on my car which is 30a for the electronic parking brake and is reading as live after ignition is off, the acc cable is at the moment using fuse 74 which is cigar lighter socket and is not live after ignition is off. I am thinking of moving the batt connection to fuse 84 which is the hazard lights and should also be constant live, am sure all my other settings match what you have suggested. Other than the cameras the car is stock spec apart from a carplay unit i fitted. The lights are on auto, the blowers are always on, the radio/carplay unit is always on when i am driving. i will start to check the battery voltage after the car has had a run, currently am off work.

 

[Mons Meg]

It's been a while since I updated this thread, and thought that I ought to.

I returned the second DR650 to Blackview who supplied a third, equally quickly. I was pleased/interested to see that the third unit had a serial number considerably earlier than either of the two which didn't work (remember as noted above that the duff ones had very, very close serial numbers). Blackview also - very sensibly - tested the third unit before sending it out to me. I installed the third unit and it has so far worked perfectly, and exactly in accordance with expectations.

What can we conclude from this? I'm not sure, really!

I had three units, two with very close serial numbers, neither of which worked for me, both entered a continual starting up loop and never successfully started. The third unit, with a significantly earlier serial number, started straight away and has worked properly so far. All are supposedly identical and running the same firmware. All installed in the same vehicle using the same wiring (not similar wiring, but the same wiring). The vehicle power and ground were/are good, smooth, and well up to voltage (12.7V battery voltage with the engine stopped). The first camera worked until I updated the firmware whereupon the fault developed. The second exhibited the fault straight away and I don't actually know which version of firmware it was running (I suspect the version that the first had when it worked). I have not attempted to update the third just in case it goes the way of the first (I don't believe that any of the changes in firmware V-1-011 are materially significant to my use).

My feeling is that there may be a batch of faulty cameras, however Blackview has assured me that both the units I returned to them worked straight-away when they received them. A puzzle.

In fairness to Blackview UK, whom I criticised above, once I had their attention they were very customer-focussed and helpful and I cannot fault their service (even though I suspect they thought they were dealing with a nutter). The problem appears to have been solve in the end, so for now at least, all is good.