Quick question, which direction should I point this fuse tap?

snahfu

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Does anyone know if the fuse tap should should be aiming downwards (picture 1) or upwards (picture 2).

I dont have a light tester to check which is hot / cold (or load / draw) but this fuse box is from a 2018 civic so im hoping anyone driving a civic or acura could point me to the right direction.


Thank you!


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YMMV, but to me it makes sense to invest less than $20 in a tester to know for sure. Otherwise you'll have to wait for someone with a 2018 Civic to answer your question, and unless the Civic trim levels are the same, even then you wouldn't be 100% sure. I know this didn't answer your question...just my $0.02 worth.
 
Im going to be installing my dashcam this weekend and was wondering if you ever figured out which was the tap should be? Did you also use the bold un the picture as ground?
 
Im going to be installing my dashcam this weekend and was wondering if you ever figured out which was the tap should be? Did you also use the bold un the picture as ground?
Install it whichever way is most convenient for the cable routing! There is a difference electrically, but a dashcam doesn't use enough power to worry about it. I don't know about Civics, but a bolt there is normally good to use, if the dashcam doesn't power up when using the bolt then find another, if it powers up but doesn't appear to work correctly then if you have a multimeter, check that the voltage between that bolt and the battery negative is very close to 0, if it is more than 0.3 then then find another bolt.
 
Here's a good video of how to orient a fuse tap:

Obviously, you can do whatever you're comfortable with, but for me it was important to orient the fuse tap properly to ensure that the original circuit was still protected by the original fuse, and that the dash cam was protected by the dash cam fuse (not the original circuit fuse).

Determining the fuse tap orientation was super easy, using a circuit tester like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07F2GWNRV
Using the tester above (or a multimeter) was needed to know which side of the fuse slot had the 12v power coming in. (And also to confirm which fuses have constant power, and which ones are switched with the ignition)..
 
Easy way to make sure your fuse tap is working.

Remove the top fuse. If the camera doesn't turn on, you have things installed properly, and the circuit is protected.
 
Easy way to make sure your fuse tap is working.

Remove the top fuse. If the camera doesn't turn on, you have things installed properly, and the circuit is protected.
Surely If you take the top fuse out the camera won’t work regardless of which way around the tap is?
 
Surely If you take the top fuse out the camera won’t work regardless of which way around the tap is?

That's the whole point to test if the fuse is properly protecting the camera. FYI: The debate over "Fuse Tap" polarity rages on. Some say it's real others say nonsense and fuses don't have polarity. Pull top fuse, if camera doesn't run, your circuit is protected. All that matters.
 
That's the whole point to test if the fuse is properly protecting the camera. FYI: The debate over "Fuse Tap" polarity rages on. Some say it's real others say nonsense and fuses don't have polarity. Pull top fuse, if camera doesn't run, your circuit is protected. All that matters.
I know the discussion over which way is correct to orientate the fuse and in reality for the purpose of a dash cam it’s not critical.
My point is that whichever way you put it, taking out the top fuse will always stop the power to the dash cam from that fuse tap.
Also the dash cam will always be protected by that fuse regardless of the rating of the other fuse and orientation of the tap. It’s just that one way the current passes through the original fuse before the dash cam fuse.
Or did you mean it as a way to check the fuse tap isn’t faulty?
 
I know the discussion over which way is correct to orientate the fuse and in reality for the purpose of a dash cam it’s not critical.
My point is that whichever way you put it, taking out the top fuse will always stop the power to the dash cam from that fuse tap.
Also the dash cam will always be protected by that fuse regardless of the rating of the other fuse and orientation of the tap. It’s just that one way the current passes through the original fuse before the dash cam fuse.
Or did you mean it as a way to check the fuse tap isn’t faulty?

Basically, It tests to make sure the circuit is protected properly. As without the top fuse, the camera shouldn't work.
 
Basically, It tests to make sure the circuit is protected properly. As without the top fuse, the camera shouldn't work.
I don’t understand what other outcome you would expect though.
What be your conclusion if you took the fuse out and the camera stayed powered up?
To me that would mean the fuse tap is faulty with a short circuit inside it (does that ever happen) or the camera isn’t wired to that fuse tap in the first place.
 
I don’t understand what other outcome you would expect though.
What be your conclusion if you took the fuse out and the camera stayed powered up?
To me that would mean the fuse tap is faulty with a short circuit inside it (does that ever happen) or the camera isn’t wired to that fuse tap in the first place.

To make sure the fuse tap and circuit are working and properly protecting the camera.

If you remove the top fuse and the camera still powers on, there's an issue.

Isn't that the whole point of the fuse tap? If there's an overload, keep the camera from getting damaged.
 
Isn't that the whole point of the fuse tap? If there's an overload, keep the camera from getting damaged.
No, the purpose of the fuse is to prevent a car fire caused by overheating wiring when something goes wrong, most likely cut insulation leading to a short circuit. It may also protect PCBs and relays or semiconductors that are supplying the power to the fusebox from overload. The camera wont go on fire, it will be wiring before the hardwire kit or maybe before the fuses, but of course when the car burns the camera will get fire damaged.
 
No, the purpose of the fuse is to prevent a car fire caused by overheating wiring when something goes wrong, most likely cut insulation leading to a short circuit. It may also protect PCBs and relays or semiconductors that are supplying the power to the fusebox from overload. The camera wont go on fire, it will be wiring before the hardwire kit or maybe before the fuses, but of course when the car burns the camera will get fire damaged.

The only reason you'd have a car fire is if the fuse / fuse box malfunctioned. The point of the fuse (and fuse tap) is to protect the vehicle and equipment. Meaning:

1. Car receives over voltage or a spike, the fuse is to blow to prevent damage to the vehicle's systems.
2. On a fuse tap, if that camera receives a surge, the camera fuse is to blow to protect the camera (or item connected to fuse tap).
3 If the camera malfunctions and sends high levels of voltages through the fuse tap, the vehicle's fuse (bottom fuse on tap) is to blow to protect the vehicle.

So yes, the fuse box (fuses) and fuse tap (fuses) are there to prevent a fire and damage to both the car and equipment hooked up to the car by protecting the circuits.
 
The only reason you'd have a car fire is if the fuse / fuse box malfunctioned. The point of the fuse (and fuse tap) is to protect the vehicle and equipment. Meaning:

1. Car receives over voltage or a spike, the fuse is to blow to prevent damage to the vehicle's systems.
2. On a fuse tap, if that camera receives a surge, the camera fuse is to blow to protect the camera (or item connected to fuse tap).
3 If the camera malfunctions and sends high levels of voltages through the fuse tap, the vehicle's fuse (bottom fuse on tap) is to blow to protect the vehicle.

So yes, the fuse box (fuses) and fuse tap (fuses) are there to prevent a fire and damage to both the car and equipment hooked up to the car by protecting the circuits.
1. Fuses do not blow on voltage spikes, they measure current, not voltage, that is why they are rated in Amps, not Volts!
2. The fuse does not provide surge protection to the camera, if you mean a high voltage, fuses don't protect against voltage, and if you mean current, well the camera always takes what current it wants however much is available, so there is no need to protect it.
3. The camera has no way of sending high voltages to the vehicle, and fuses do not protect against high voltages anyway, they operate on Amps.

  • The fuse does nothing to protect the camera, that is not its purpose and it has no ability to do so!
 
1. Fuses do not blow on voltage spikes, they measure current, not voltage, that is why they are rated in Amps, not Volts!
2. The fuse does not provide surge protection to the camera, if you mean a high voltage, fuses don't protect against voltage, and if you mean current, well the camera always takes what current it wants however much is available, so there is no need to protect it.
3. The camera has no way of sending high voltages to the vehicle, and fuses do not protect against high voltages anyway, they operate on Amps.

  • The fuse does nothing to protect the camera, that is not its purpose and it has no ability to do so!

1. Fuses do not blow on voltage spikes, they measure current, not voltage, that is why they are rated in Amps, not Volts!
2. The fuse does not provide surge protection to the camera, if you mean a high voltage, fuses don't protect against voltage, and if you mean current, well the camera always takes what current it wants however much is available, so there is no need to protect it.
3. The camera has no way of sending high voltages to the vehicle, and fuses do not protect against high voltages anyway, they operate on Amps.

  • The fuse does nothing to protect the camera, that is not its purpose and it has no ability to do so!


Fuses protect the circuit from overloading: Amperage if you wish. Fuses prevent too high a current, and will blow if there's a problem.

If there is an issue with the current (too high due to being faulty) from the Dash Camera to the Vehicle's Fuse Box, the Fuse Will Blow.
If there is a problem with a system on a car, the fuse will blow to protect the system and circuit.

A rectangular fuse is composed of two push in-connectors linked by a fuse wire in a protective covering, typically made of plastic, which will burn through or blow, as it is often referred to, when overloaded.

Without fuses, a large, overloaded electrical current could cause the wires to overheat, melt the insulation, and could result in fire. A high current to any component equals instant failure, therefore, the fuse ensures that current stays at a reasonable level for the component to continue to function. Still, if the current is too high, the fuse will blow.
 
Does anyone know if the fuse tap should should be aiming downwards (picture 1) or upwards (picture 2).

I dont have a light tester to check which is hot / cold (or load / draw) but this fuse box is from a 2018 civic so im hoping anyone driving a civic or acura could point me to the right direction.


Thank you!
I am sure you have done this correctly by now.

I have a tested and was able to test which pin is hot (+). Unfortunately in my car, this would require me to orient the fuse tap in a way that would not fit unless I cut through the plastic fusebox (which I don't want to do). So I contemplated reversing the orientation so it fits. Since the fuse tap has a direction to it, it ONLY makes a difference if the original circuit fuse were to blow. If so, then the dash cam will NOT receive power until your replace the burnt lower fuse. However, if the tap is aligned correctly, then the cam will continue to receive power regardless of the status of the original lower fuse. In my case, it may make sense to reverse the orientation so I can fit it! After all, I would replace the burnt fuse and if I lost dash cam operation for a bit, that's probably ok - the chances that an accident will occur at the same time as a fuse blowing is really rare. Keep in mind, if you were to choose a reverse way, you will be connecting the cam to two fuses (the original and the cam's fuse). This is not a big deal since like someone here said, the cam does not draw much amps (most definitely lower than the original - in my case 30A cigarette lighter).

So if you still don't have a tester, then you can simply do the following: place only the cam's fuse on top and leave the bottom fuse out. If your cam does not turn on, then you have the tap oriented incorrectly.

Here is a schematic that I drew to help explain the wiring in these little fuse taps.
 

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I am sure you have done this correctly by now.

I have a tested and was able to test which pin is hot (+). Unfortunately in my car, this would require me to orient the fuse tap in a way that would not fit unless I cut through the plastic fusebox (which I don't want to do). So I contemplated reversing the orientation so it fits. Since the fuse tap has a direction to it, it ONLY makes a difference if the original circuit fuse were to blow. If so, then the dash cam will NOT receive power until your replace the burnt lower fuse. However, if the tap is aligned correctly, then the cam will continue to receive power regardless of the status of the original lower fuse. In my case, it may make sense to reverse the orientation so I can fit it! After all, I would replace the burnt fuse and if I lost dash cam operation for a bit, that's probably ok - the chances that an accident will occur at the same time as a fuse blowing is really rare. Keep in mind, if you were to choose a reverse way, you will be connecting the cam to two fuses (the original and the cam's fuse). This is not a big deal since like someone here said, the cam does not draw much amps (most definitely lower than the original - in my case 30A cigarette lighter).

So if you still don't have a tester, then you can simply do the following: place only the cam's fuse on top and leave the bottom fuse out. If your cam does not turn on, then you have the tap oriented incorrectly.

Here is a schematic that I drew to help explain the wiring in these little fuse taps.
But bear in mind that your original fuse was 30A so it’s possible the supply to that fuse be it via ecu or straight from the battery may have a 30A limit, if your tap allows the circuits to be independent, a 5A in the top means theoretically you could pull 35A on the circuit.

Having the tap the other way around means all current passes through the original fuse and maintains its 30A protection.

With the small draw of a dash cam it’s unlikely to impact in reality but people may use fuse taps to wire in other accessories or may use smaller supply circuits so would be better with the right leg to live.
 
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