Last year I purchased a Garmin 55 for the front of my vehicle. At the time I didn't think I needed a rear camera. Now after being hit twice in the rear while parked, I want to add a rear camera. Garmin does not have a way to connect a rear camera to the 55 model in front. How do I hard wire a rear camera only into the circuitry at the back end and any suggestions for what model to purchase for rear only? Thanks!
Rear Only Hard Wiring
- Thread starter BillA
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SawMaster
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Welcome to DCT @BillA 
Hardwiring to the rear only using a seperate cam is the same as a front install, but due to power loss through cabling if it's necessary to add more wire length, do that on the 12V side of the hardwire kit instead of using a USB extension cable. And be sure both the 'hot' wires are fused at the fusebox. You need a HWK for each cam as they aren't rated to carry more than that.
You generally don't need a top-performance cam in the rear as there wont be much speed differential while driving, and oncoming traffic will be captured by your front cam too. One of the best choices here is the B1W; small with more than enough performance, lowest current draw in use of any dashcam, has low-bitrate parking mode to do constant coverage while being easier on card wear, a great form-factor for most cars, and very economical too
One thing to consider is that with 2 cams going while parked you're putting a lot of stress on your car battery and possible might even end up with a no-start from a dead battery. The recommended HWK for the B1W has what most feel is too low of a cut-off voltage (11.8V IIRC) and if your car battery is old you may not get more than a few hours recording time while parked. If you don't need the Garmin while parked the B1W should last 8 hours+ unless your battery is on the way out.
Phil
Hardwiring to the rear only using a seperate cam is the same as a front install, but due to power loss through cabling if it's necessary to add more wire length, do that on the 12V side of the hardwire kit instead of using a USB extension cable. And be sure both the 'hot' wires are fused at the fusebox. You need a HWK for each cam as they aren't rated to carry more than that.
You generally don't need a top-performance cam in the rear as there wont be much speed differential while driving, and oncoming traffic will be captured by your front cam too. One of the best choices here is the B1W; small with more than enough performance, lowest current draw in use of any dashcam, has low-bitrate parking mode to do constant coverage while being easier on card wear, a great form-factor for most cars, and very economical too
One thing to consider is that with 2 cams going while parked you're putting a lot of stress on your car battery and possible might even end up with a no-start from a dead battery. The recommended HWK for the B1W has what most feel is too low of a cut-off voltage (11.8V IIRC) and if your car battery is old you may not get more than a few hours recording time while parked. If you don't need the Garmin while parked the B1W should last 8 hours+ unless your battery is on the way out.
Phil
