Relocating and Replacing the On/Off button switch on Power Magic Pro

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#1
Ok I know this would definitely void any warranty on a PMP but I would like to use a different button to control the on/off status of the PMP but keep the dip switches and connections where they are.

The previous owner of my car had some aftermarket electronic device installed which they removed before I bought the car. I don't know if it was a radar detector of some sort. All I know is there is a button installed in one of the blank spaces next to the factory buttons on the dash. It looks pretty clean and it also has a little light which would be cool to also reuse.

The button doesn't do anything and it's actually not wired to anything anymore. It would be nice to be able to turn the PMP on/off via this switch. I currently use it to turn on the imaginary Auto Pilot but I'm willing to trade that functionality to be used for the PMP.

I already removed the PMP from its case for moment to see what the inside looks like (well, there goes the warranty!) and it's just a simple little PCB. I have not successfully ever soldered something before. But this doesn't look impossible. I may just need to find the right type of soldering tools, the right switch if this one won't work for the PMP, and some courage.

Whenever I tried soldering before I got frustrated at how small soldering joints are and that my cheap soldering iron tip may be too big. Another concern I have is finding the right type of solder to use for this and the right cables to connect the PCB to the new button.

The button switch that I want to use says 16A 12V and has 3 "legs". I'm no electronics engineer.

This is really the first thread I've created so hopefully you all can see the attached pictures of the button that I'm talking about.


image.jpg image (1).jpg
 

Hillbilly

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#2
That switch has 3 wires because the circuit through it is to turn the LED on when its on. I would suggest that if you have never soldered before you get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you.
I have worked on circuit boards extensively and I can vouch for the fact that when I started I stuffed up one or two by using bad soldering methods.

I used to modify Playstations and have done a couple of hundred of them and latterly been replacing the batteries in Blackvue cameras for which you need a magnifying glass to do a good job. (well my old eyes do)

In your picture the top connector is earth The middle one is power FROM source and the bottom one is power TO the POWER MAGIC so that the power runs through the LED when switch is on

Earth can go to a screw on a metal part of the chassis or connected to a known earth wire near the switch.

As I dont have a PMP I cant tell you what to do with it but I can offer an alternative. You can cut the yellow wire from the battery and solder an extension to it and run the end from the battery to the middle pin and the other one to the bottom pin.

That will turn it off and allow the PMP to run the camera ONLY when ignition is on. You need a 25w iron with a tip like a sharpened pencil end and some cored electronic solder

If you havent got that and are unsure it would only take a mate who DOES KNOW what hes doing a half hour to do the whole job.

That way would be easier than trying to solder on the circuit board.

I would desolder the switch contacts and solder the wires to the board but thats a bit past a novice doing it.

Seems a lot of work to achieve buggar all
 
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#3
Thanks. Yeah I know it's kind of silly to go through all that just so I could put this button to use. I think I can solder the wires and just leave the PMP board alone. I will just end up with two buttons for it and LED lights but that won't bother me.

Now, can't I just join the wires by twisting them together using electrical tape and putting screw wire connectors like these?
http://www.lulusoso.com/upload/20110628/cable_connector_wire_connector_wire_joint.jpg

I know I will have to solder on the back of my new button but I think I can handle that part. I need to know what type of wire (gauge?) to use since I will need more of it to reach the button.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Hillbilly

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#4
If you arent going to do it right dont do it at all Those things are unreliable at best as vibration can loosen them.
Best way is solder and heatshrink them.

Same wire gauge as is already there Do you want the pretty LED or not as if you dont you can buy the same switch without one but with the light at least lets you know when its on.

I strongly suggest you get it done for you. Very easy to melt the switch if you leave the heat on the pins for too long.

Using twisted wires on a permanently live wire is a good way to burn your car to bits. You dont actually have to solder to the switch as you can use covered spade connectors Like this one
 

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#5
If you arent going to do it right dont do it at all Those things are unreliable at best as vibration can loosen them.
Best way is solder and heatshrink them.

Same wire gauge as is already there Do you want the pretty LED or not as if you dont you can buy the same switch without one but with the light at least lets you know when its on.

I strongly suggest you get it done for you. Very easy to melt the switch if you leave the heat on the pins for too long.

Using twisted wires on a permanently live wire is a good way to burn your car to bits. You dont actually have to solder to the switch as you can use covered spade connectors Like this one
Good idea. Thanks. Definitely going with the safer route.
 

Rajagra

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#6
In your picture the top connector is earth The middle one is power FROM source and the bottom one is power TO the POWER MAGIC so that the power runs through the LED when switch is on
I suspect that "A" is the switched output, and "+" is where 12V feeds in.
The good news is that if you get those 2 the wrong way round all that will happen is the light stays on all the time. I've seen that on illuminated mains switches a few times. Scary that people wire things up wrong, but at least they didn't have the switch between live and neutral! :eek:
 

Hillbilly

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#7
wiring_diagrams.JPG

Not according to this diagram or Im reading it wrong Anyway as you say the only difference is that if the two are reversed the LED will be on all the time If so switch them over.

I have seen them shown the other way around so just try and see
 
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#8
Wow that looks like the very same button! You guys are great. Once I get this done I will report back on how things went.
 
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