Removing A frame cover and headliner trim?

My camera is at the top of the window too, I just take a different route to get the cable back there that's all. Whatever works best for you is the best method. :)

Edit: I should add that I discovered that it's really easy to press the cable under the rocker panel trim without having to remove it. That was one reason for choosing that method.

I might have to go that route, if getting the cable behind the rubber alongside the headliner becomes to difficult, I will take a look at doing it that way.
 
The trim on your truck and mine are totally different.

I was just thinking that might be the case as I read your post above. Maybe you could run the cable under the carpet until you can get to the rear of the cab? Or maybe, even though yours is different, there is some way to make it work along the rocker panel?
 
Almost all Toyota door opening weatherstrip is installed by press fit over a lip similar to the pinch weld at the bottom of the body (where you'd put the jack on a car, but not on a truck). At the top of the door opening (on the body, not the door itself) you pull the weatherstrip straight down. At the bottom (after you unscrew or unclip the sill plate) pull the strip straight up towards the ceiling. Same for the sides - basically you just pull straight towards the center of the door opening.

Reinstallation is simply pushing it back on. Sometimes you need to give it a few taps by hand (never use a tool as it can cut the seal or bend the metal reinforcers inside) to fully seat it, but it's pretty obvious as you take it apart. If you take the entire strip off, be sure to pay attention to the position of any bends or flaps that may exist, so it will properly seal once it's back together.
 
Almost all Toyota door opening weatherstrip is installed by press fit over a lip similar to the pinch weld at the bottom of the body (where you'd put the jack on a car, but not on a truck). At the top of the door opening (on the body, not the door itself) you pull the weatherstrip straight down. At the bottom (after you unscrew or unclip the sill plate) pull the strip straight up towards the ceiling. Same for the sides - basically you just pull straight towards the center of the door opening.

Reinstallation is simply pushing it back on. Sometimes you need to give it a few taps by hand (never use a tool as it can cut the seal or bend the metal reinforcers inside) to fully seat it, but it's pretty obvious as you take it apart. If you take the entire strip off, be sure to pay attention to the position of any bends or flaps that may exist, so it will properly seal once it's back together.

I can't get out to the truck today Gibson, however I see what you are saying and will give it a go soon as I can. My truck is an extended cab by the way. I want to thank you for taking the time to give me a hand. I'll get back to you as soon as I see if this solves my problem.
 
Almost all Toyota door opening weatherstrip is installed by press fit over a lip similar to the pinch weld at the bottom of the body (where you'd put the jack on a car, but not on a truck). At the top of the door opening (on the body, not the door itself) you pull the weatherstrip straight down. At the bottom (after you unscrew or unclip the sill plate) pull the strip straight up towards the ceiling. Same for the sides - basically you just pull straight towards the center of the door opening.

Reinstallation is simply pushing it back on. Sometimes you need to give it a few taps by hand (never use a tool as it can cut the seal or bend the metal reinforcers inside) to fully seat it, but it's pretty obvious as you take it apart. If you take the entire strip off, be sure to pay attention to the position of any bends or flaps that may exist, so it will properly seal once it's back together.
At the plant, they use a roller on the Door Opening Weatherstrip. They start at a upper corner, then with a roller round the top and sides.
Have to be careful, strip has metal in it and you can kink it.
 
At the plant, they use a roller on the Door Opening Weatherstrip. They start at a upper corner, then with a roller round the top and sides.
Have to be careful, strip has metal in it and you can kink it.

I believe (not positive) that is for the late models, Mine is 2001 (Generation 1).
 
I believe (not positive) that is for the late models, Mine is 2001 (Generation 1).
Yeah, not sure. The newer ones have a flexible metal back bone that can be kinked.
If so, it will leave a bulge or distortion and won't lay flat. Been there, done that. LOL
 
Not just newer ones... Even back in the 80s (and probably older) Toyota used metal reinforced weatherstripping on the body side of their vehicles. And they aren't alone. It just makes sense to have a strong, durable seal on the body side that won't come loose over time. The roller at the factory is probably just to make sure the tar/sealant/adhesive is fully seated onto the body of the vehicle, no matter if it's a cheap little Yaris or a top end Lexus LF-A.
 
Not just newer ones... Even back in the 80s (and probably older) Toyota used metal reinforced weatherstripping on the body side of their vehicles. And they aren't alone. It just makes sense to have a strong, durable seal on the body side that won't come loose over time. The roller at the factory is probably just to make sure the tar/sealant/adhesive is fully seated onto the body of the vehicle, no matter if it's a cheap little Yaris or a top end Lexus LF-A.
They don't put a sealant on the weatherstrip now, maybe they did before but not now.
My Scion does not have a sealant either. The only place I have seen a black tar like substance is behind the door trim panel holding a clear plastic sheet onto the metal door covering access holes.
The rollers are used for ergonomic reasons.
 
They don't put a sealant on the weatherstrip now, maybe they did before but not now.
My Scion does not have a sealant either. The only place I have seen a black tar like substance is behind the door trim panel holding a clear plastic sheet onto the metal door covering access holes.
The rollers are used for ergonomic reasons.
Admittedly, I stopped working for Toyota back in 08 or so, and the newest Toyota I've taken trim apart on is my wife's 08 Highlander hybrid.
 
I was just thinking that might be the case as I read your post above. Maybe you could run the cable under the carpet until you can get to the rear of the cab? Or maybe, even though yours is different, there is some way to make it work along the rocker panel?

I was still confused so I took it to a radio shop who did dash cams also. I wanted them to install the wiring for the rear and front cameras and the Vico power plus. The guy that did the work seemed very experienced however the manager wouldn't let me view what was going on because no one was allowed in the work area because of insurance policy. So I told/showed the installer guy where I wanted the wires put and he told me OK, no problem, he had installed so many he had lost count! He installed the rear camera wire from under the dash up through the A pillar, top of door, and under the headliner back to the top center of rear sliding window in my truck, using some kind of simple wood pry bar (like I have). On the front he ran the wire from under dash, up through same A pillar, under windshield rubber to center of windshield
On the Vico power plus I had asked him to run the ACC and Battery wires to the fuse panel but he said it was safer and with better (heavier) wires to run them into the harness inside the steering wheel shaft where he just spliced them in to other wires and wrapped the connections. This leaves me with a loose cigar power socket where one puts the USB power charger.
The cost of everything was $90.00, which I thought was on the cheap side, took about 1.5 hrs.

I wanted to make the Vico cigar power socket the new socket by replacing the one in the truck with the Vico Cigar socket but after trying he had to ask the manager, the manager said there was no way to hold the Vico socket in the hole of the trucks original cigar socket.

I said OK because I didn't know, Does anyone know what holds the original socket in and how you can take the old socket out, and if possible to put a new one in, I would think so, but never tried.

I looked on Amazon and there is a ton of cigar sockets, but nothing said about hardware for holding one in. If you don't understand I will try to describe better, just ask.
 
I was still confused so I took it to a radio shop who did dash cams also. I wanted them to install the wiring for the rear and front cameras and the Vico power plus. The guy that did the work seemed very experienced however the manager wouldn't let me view what was going on because no one was allowed in the work area because of insurance policy. So I told/showed the installer guy where I wanted the wires put and he told me OK, no problem, he had installed so many he had lost count! He installed the rear camera wire from under the dash up through the A pillar, top of door, and under the headliner back to the top center of rear sliding window in my truck, using some kind of simple wood pry bar (like I have). On the front he ran the wire from under dash, up through same A pillar, under windshield rubber to center of windshield
On the Vico power plus I had asked him to run the ACC and Battery wires to the fuse panel but he said it was safer and with better (heavier) wires to run them into the harness inside the steering wheel shaft where he just spliced them in to other wires and wrapped the connections. This leaves me with a loose cigar power socket where one puts the USB power charger.
The cost of everything was $90.00, which I thought was on the cheap side, took about 1.5 hrs.

I wanted to make the Vico cigar power socket the new socket by replacing the one in the truck with the Vico Cigar socket but after trying he had to ask the manager, the manager said there was no way to hold the Vico socket in the hole of the trucks original cigar socket.

I said OK because I didn't know, Does anyone know what holds the original socket in and how you can take the old socket out, and if possible to put a new one in, I would think so, but never tried.

I looked on Amazon and there is a ton of cigar sockets, but nothing said about hardware for holding one in. If you don't understand I will try to describe better, just ask.

It might even be possible to simply remove the Vico socket and then connect those wires into the existing 12V socket in your truck, which you would disconnect from your truck's original circuitry. But yeah, I think you should be able to buy an after market replacement socket that will fit the hole where the existing Toyota socket is now.

Here is an (expensive) example on Amazon. You should be able to find these at a better price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00GKMPGVK
Edit: Last time I dealt with something like this there were just a couple of little pressure fit flanges that held the socket in place. They were part of the metal tube that creates the socket. It should be pretty simple. I think @Gibson99 would know.
 
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I was still confused so I took it to a radio shop who did dash cams also. I wanted them to install the wiring for the rear and front cameras and the Vico power plus. The guy that did the work seemed very experienced however the manager wouldn't let me view what was going on because no one was allowed in the work area because of insurance policy. So I told/showed the installer guy where I wanted the wires put and he told me OK, no problem, he had installed so many he had lost count! He installed the rear camera wire from under the dash up through the A pillar, top of door, and under the headliner back to the top center of rear sliding window in my truck, using some kind of simple wood pry bar (like I have). On the front he ran the wire from under dash, up through same A pillar, under windshield rubber to center of windshield
On the Vico power plus I had asked him to run the ACC and Battery wires to the fuse panel but he said it was safer and with better (heavier) wires to run them into the harness inside the steering wheel shaft where he just spliced them in to other wires and wrapped the connections. This leaves me with a loose cigar power socket where one puts the USB power charger.
The cost of everything was $90.00, which I thought was on the cheap side, took about 1.5 hrs.

I wanted to make the Vico cigar power socket the new socket by replacing the one in the truck with the Vico Cigar socket but after trying he had to ask the manager, the manager said there was no way to hold the Vico socket in the hole of the trucks original cigar socket.

I said OK because I didn't know, Does anyone know what holds the original socket in and how you can take the old socket out, and if possible to put a new one in, I would think so, but never tried.

I looked on Amazon and there is a ton of cigar sockets, but nothing said about hardware for holding one in. If you don't understand I will try to describe better, just ask.
Can you post a pic of the back of the Vico socket?
 
I wouldn't mess with trying to remove the Toyota socket. They're a pain. Just cut off the vico socket, put 2 female blade connectors on, and plug it into the back of the Toyota socket.

Curious though - why do you want to put the vico unit that way? Are you trying to run some other electronics after parking the truck?
 
To remove trimwork on any car, a proper application of explosives will accomplish it quickly- reassembly may be a little tougher though :eek: :p :ROFLMAO:

Factory ciggie sockets press into place or are held by a threaded section from the back. No point in buying new as these rarely wear out or go bad- simply get one that fits your car from a junkyard (breaker's) and you're set. Or here as was suggested, just unplug the factory wires and plug the powerbank module in with the proper connectors being sure to maintain the correct polarity. Easy :D

Whenever I'm doing a custom power set-up I use junkyard-sourced sockets and I've never paid more than $2 US apiece. These are worlds better than the aftermarket ones made onto cables which often do give trouble in several ways over time :( If you're stuck with using the cable-attached type, insert the plug tightly so the tip spring is well-compressed, then wrap there with many layers of electrical tape wound in such a way as to best keep the plug from backing out ;) I've found that if done well this will last at least 5 years unless something inside the connection gets corroded which is very unlikely :cool:

Phil
 
To remove trimwork on any car, a proper application of explosives will accomplish it quickly- reassembly may be a little tougher though :eek: :p :ROFLMAO:

Factory ciggie sockets press into place or are held by a threaded section from the back. No point in buying new as these rarely wear out or go bad- simply get one that fits your car from a junkyard (breaker's) and you're set. Or here as was suggested, just unplug the factory wires and plug the powerbank module in with the proper connectors being sure to maintain the correct polarity. Easy :D

Whenever I'm doing a custom power set-up I use junkyard-sourced sockets and I've never paid more than $2 US apiece. These are worlds better than the aftermarket ones made onto cables which often do give trouble in several ways over time :( If you're stuck with using the cable-attached type, insert the plug tightly so the tip spring is well-compressed, then wrap there with many layers of electrical tape wound in such a way as to best keep the plug from backing out ;) I've found that if done well this will last at least 5 years unless something inside the connection gets corroded which is very unlikely :cool:

Phil

I like your thinking about junkyard parts. I've been sourcing parts from junkyards for many years. The problem is that where I live many of the junkyards I've been going to for a long time have disappeared due to environmental regulations. The state started cracking down on them because of all the old rusting cars leaking nasty fluids into the ground and piles of old tires becoming breeding grounds for mosquitoes carrying diseases like Eastern equine encephalitis (EEE) and West Nile virus (WNV). You can still find used parts but it's just not like the old days when I could go down to old Ralph's junkyard and wander around all afternoon with some tools until I found what I was looking for.
 
Similar here- probably 80% of the smaller yards are gone along with maybe 40% of the big ones. I used to do a fair business in my spare time pulling and reselling performance parts from my favorite one where I knew the 100 acres of cars almost as well as they did :p Land and cars were sold off separately when the owner retired, and much history went to the crusher :oops: The new yard on that land doesn't allow U-pull and the prices aren't good plus there's no rare stuff anymore. I still have friends in the business though so I can get what I need ;)

Phil
 
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