Reviewing and Testing the 3-ch Viofo A329T

[EricSan]

I was delighted to receive a Viofo A329T camera for review! My sincere "Thank You!" and appreciation to Bill, Jessica, and the rest of the team @viofo @VIOFO-Support. To say that I'm excited to learn the ins and outs of this dashcam is an understatement for sure. I'm a huge fan of flexible and modular design for products like this and Viofo has pulled out all of the stops in that respect.

The main camera unit can be equipped with a number of different auxiliary cameras that are each intended for different purposes and use cases. All variants feature the same 4K main, forward facing camera. The various models use different combinations of auxiliary cameras as listed below. Firmware updates and different camera selections determine which variation you have:

A329S 3CH - 2K Wide 210° FOV Fisheye Cabin Camera with IR LEDs + 2K Rear Camera
A329T 3CH - 2K Forward Facing 4x Telephoto Camera + 2K Rear Camera
A329TC 3CH - 2K Forward Facing 4x Telephoto + 2K Fisheye Cabin Camera with IR LEDs
A329SW 3CH - 2K Fisheye Cabin Camera with IR LEDs + 2K Exterior Mount Waterproof Rear
A329TW 3CH - 2K Forward Facing 4x Telephoto Camera + 2K Exterior Mountable Waterproof Rear
A329WW 3CH - Dual 2K HDR Exterior Mountable Waterproof Rear Cameras

Below is a quick (and likely incomplete) summary of features and specs for the A329T 3Ch:

Features:
- 3 channel coverage: 4k front + 2k 4x optical telephoto front + 2k rear cameras
- Front sensor: Sony STARVIS 2 IMX678 1/1.8" 8MP
- Telephoto sensor: Sony STARVIS 2 IMX675 1/2.8" 5MP
- Rear: Sony STARVIS 2 IMX675 1/2.8" 5MP
- 3 channel HDR recording
- Voice Control
- Ultra-Precise GPS (4-decimal place resolution)
- WiFi 6 Connectivity
- New Low Power Impact Detection
- New Hybrid Parking Recording
- Support for up to 4TB external SSD video storage
- Support for up to 512GB SD memory cards
- USB 3.0 port for video download
- H.264 video codec

Voice Commands:
- Take Photo
- Video Start
- Turn On Audio
- Turn Off Audio
- Turn On Screen
- Turn Off Screen
- Turn On Wi-Fi
- Lock The Video
- Turn On Wi-Fi
- Turn Off Wi-Fi
- Show Front Camera
- Show Both Cameras
- Show Rear Camera

Camera Resolutions:
1 Channel:
4K 60fps
4K 21:9 60fps
4K 30fps
4K 21:9 30fps
2K 60fps
2K 30fps

2 Channels:
4K P60 + 2K P30
4KP60 21:9 + 2K 21:9
4K P30 + 2K P30
4KP30 21:9 + 2K 21:9
2K P60 + 2K P30
2K P30 + 2K P30
1080 РЗ0+ 1080 P30

3 Channels:
4K P30 + 2K P30 + 2K P30
4K 21:9 + 2K 21:9 + 2K 21:9
2K P30 + 2K P30 + 2K P30
1080P30 + 1080P30 + 1080P30

4K resolution refers to 3840x2160P, and the 2K resolution refers to 2560x1440P.
The 4K 21:9 refers to 3840x1600P, and the 2K 21:9 refers to 2560x1080P.

Camera Angles:
Front: F1.8 Aperture, FOV=140°
Rear: F1.8 Aperture, FOV=160°
Telephoto: F2.0 Aperture, FOV=35°

A329T Camera Manual:

manual

VIOFO specializes in professional-grade dash cameras featuring Sony STARVIS 2 IMX sensors, 4K ultra-high-definition recording, and advanced multi-channel systems from 1CH to 4CH. Known for superior license plate capture — including dedicated telephoto dash cams for long-range identification.

www.viofo.com

Viofo Firmware Update Page:

firmware

VIOFO specializes in professional-grade dash cameras featuring Sony STARVIS 2 IMX sensors, 4K ultra-high-definition recording, and advanced multi-channel systems from 1CH to 4CH. Known for superior license plate capture — including dedicated telephoto dash cams for long-range identification.

www.viofo.com

The outer packaging is sturdy and secure to protect the camera during transit. The shipping package that I received included a 64G SD card, the BTR200 Bluetooth remote control, a CPL-600 polarizer that fits both the front telephoto camera and the rear camera, and HK4 Hardwire Kit and the A329T 3-ch dashcam:

All of the dashcam components are nestled securely in a form-fitted foam liner for protection:

Here is everything that is included in the product packaging. Gotta love that additional 3M VHB adhesive pads and three static cling sheets for windshield mounting are included! I very much appreciate them!

 

[Chuck McCoy]

Right on.
Looking forward to your "dissection" of the HK6 too.
-Chuck

 

[EricSan]

Here are some close up images of the Viofo A329 main camera. The screen measures about 35mm tall by 48mm wide. As you can see, there are a series of five LEDs across the bottom of the screen to indicate the status of the camera.

The PWR led illuminates steady red to indicate the power is on.
The REC led illuminates steady red to indicate the camera is recording.
The GPS led flashes blue to indicate it is actively receiving a GPS signal. It glows steady blue to indicate the GPS signal has been received. When this LED is off, the GPS unit is disabled.
The MIC led glows steady blue to indicate that audio recording is taking place.
The Wi-Fi led flashed blue to indicate that Wi-Fi is enabled and waiting for a connection. A steady blue glow indicates that Wi-Fi is connected, and is off when Wi-Fi is disabled.

The left side of the camera features plenty of ventilation slots, a reset button, and a USB-C 3.0 connection point to an external solid state drive for longer loop record times. It's not labelled, but I suspect the single round hole nearest my thumb is the microphone hole. You can also see the GPS unit mounted on the right side of the image with the red 3M VHB adhesive already applied.

The A329 manual makes a special point that the USB port on the unit itself is NOT for use with the 5v power supply. The USB-C port on the unit itself is strictly for connection to a SSD or to your computer for file transfer. The USB power supply is intended to be input through the GPS unit ONLY.

On the right hand side of the camera, you can see the micro SD card slot that will accept up to a 512GB card. You can also see the small, coaxial connectors for the 2K internal/telephoto camera and the 2k rear window camera as well as additional ventilation holes.

Looking at the top of the unit, you can see the USB-C power entry port that is part of the detachable GPS unit. The GPS unit slides sideways to disengage. This allows you to separate the camera from the GPS unit once it is installed on your windshield.

And at the bottom of the unit, you can see the main forward facing camera.

In the view of the main camera lens above, you can also see a number of reflected hues (red on the periphery, greenish toward the center) that indicate the presence of anti-glare and anti-reflective coatings that have been applied to the individual lens elements.

The camera sensor/lens housing adjusts easily to aim the camera at the road ahead once mounted to your front window. The images below show the maximum range of movement. As you move the lens, it responds with a series of definitive clicks to help maintain proper positioning.

Here is the camera with the sensor/lens unit adjusted as far down as possible:

And the same view with the sensor/lens unit rotated up as far as possible. As you can see, there is a significant range of adjustment for the lens/camera assembly, approaching 75-80 degrees. Given the image below, I don't think this camera will accommodate mounting on a completely vertical windshield unless there is an additional attachment that I am unaware of.

Like its predecessors, the main forward facing lens has a nice little alignment mark that is useful when installing the circular polarizer that is included in the camera packaging. Just align the white line on the polarizer with the white line on the lens, press it on, and you're all set to go!

EDIT: actually, rotating the polarizer counter-clockwise by about 10 degrees from what is shown in the image below results in better glare reduction for the front camera.

 

[EricSan]

Here are the forward facing telephoto and the rear window cameras. With the exception of how they are labelled, they appear nearly identical.

Here is the "top view" of the camera (which is a little arbitrary...). You can see the ventilation slots around the camera's sensor on the right hand side. If you hold this up to the light, you'll see straight through the camera. I could post another photo of the "bottom view" of this same camera, but it is exactly identical, so it's not worth the space here. 🙂

The front 4x telephoto camera features an F2.0 lens with a 35° field of view. Those of you who are familiar with photography (real cameras, not cell-phone crappy cameras) will recognize the familiar and necessary tradeoff between a longer focal length and the resulting smaller aperture. The same is true here.

Both "accessory" cameras have a translucent vertical, white LED below the model number that wraps around the corner of the camera housing. This LED glows ever so softly to indicate that the camera is receiving power (something I very much appreciate for diagnostic purposes!). It is just bright enough to discern during the daylight and is clearly visible while simultaneously being VERY unobtrusive for night time driving. Well done, indeed! 👍 Sorry for the out of focus image. I'll have to see if I can remake that one - the camera is already installed in my car.

The rear camera features an F1.8 aperture with a 160° field of view.

The opposite side of each barrel-shaped lens features the ubiquitous Viofo-style coaxial connector.

As you might have already guessed, the two halves of the camera rotate relative to one another to allow for proper aiming of the camera once you've stuck the 3M VHB to the inside of your window. Here is the rear camera - or maybe it's the telephoto camera, it's hard to tell because they are exactly the same shape - rotated as far as possible in one direction:

And then fully rotated in the opposite direction. As you can see, it allows nearly 180 degrees of rotation, which should be enough to enable ideal placement on just about any windshield, front or back! Very nice!

 

[EricSan]

Looking forward to your "dissection" of the HK6 too.

Ha- Good memory! I have one on order from Mark at @CaptureYourAction, should arrive on Saturday. I also picked up another polarizer (so I'll have one for each camera) and a 2.5m SSD cable to play with. This sucker eats SD cards pretty quickly at it's maximum bitrate. I found that a 128GB card barely lasts for 2.5 hours....

 

[EricSan]

And here is the polarizer (available separately) that fits the auxiliary cameras. There is a very mild tint to it, so I don't imagine that much exposure compensation will be necessary at all.

Just press it in place and you're done! There are two little plastic tabs to hold it securely to ventilation slots on the camera housing.

 

[EricSan]

The A329T arrives with all of the video and power cable that you need to connect the cameras and install it in your car.

I have always admired the construction and power delivery of the Viofo power supplies. The cigarette/utility plug adapter is sturdy and fits securely in the utility outlet. There are are two USB-C power ports, the blue one is intended for the A329 camera and is rated at 5v/3A and the orange plug is specified to deliver varying levels of voltage and current, according to the USB-C specification: 5v/3A, 9v/3A, 12v/2.5A, 15v/2A, and 20v/1.5A. Thus you can easily connect most any USB-C device into this adapter (provided you are not trying to recharge your laptop computer or something else with a much larger current draw).

The perimeter ring glows a soft blue when the adapter receives power to let you know that everything is OK and working as intended.

The power cable has a USB-C connector or each end along with a wire tag indicating orientation. I don't imagine there is any reason why you can't reverse the cable from how it is labelled: one end has a 90 degree bend and the opposite end is straight. I guess this will vary with your particular installation, but I would recommend orienting the cable (straight vs 90 degree connector) so that it maintains the neatest installation in your specific vehicle.

The first coaxial video camera is about 1m (3.3ft) in length and is intended to connect the front telephoto or cabin camera to the main camera unit. The ends of the wires are even labelled to help make sure you don't mix things up as you are setting things up during installation. I'm a big fan of clarity that reduces the opportunity for errors!

The second coaxial video cable is about 6m (20ft) long and is meant to connect the rear facing camera to the main unit. The ends are similarly labelled. The end that emerges from the rear camera features a straight connector, whereas the the end that plugs into the main camera up front has a 90 degree angle connector to keep the wires neat and tidy up front on your windshield. Love this level of attention to detail!

...and the end that plugs into the main camera up front...

There is also a shorter (1m) USB-C data cable that is intended to connect your camera to a computer for file transfer. Finally, there is a useful plastic trim tool/pry bar that is a great help for tucking video and power cables under the edge of the trim in your car.

Just be careful and be aware of your specific car model when performing an installation. DO NOT cross any wire over the top of where airbags are built into your car (side curtain airbags, A-pillars, B-pillars, or C-pillars, etc). You don't want your wires to interfere with airbag deployment in the event of an accident!

 

[EricSan]

Jessica at Viofo was even kind enough to include a BlueTooth remote control button and an HK4 hardwire kit with my review samples! Thank you! These remotes are a great idea as I'm not super excited to try fumbling around with the camera itself during a tense moment on the road. I'm wondering if I'll end up preferring the remote button or the voice commands... I'll have to report back on this in a few weeks.

The BTR200 Bluetooth Remote Control button already has a battery installed, as you can tell by the presence of the "Pull" tab sticking out of the top. The batter shown in the bottom right of the image is a backup battery. Very nice! 👍

The HK4 hardwire kit seems to be 99% identical to the previous HK3-C kit that I already have. To my eye (so far) the only difference is the straight (HK3-C) vs 90 degree bend (HK4) in the USB-C connector at the end of the hardwire cable.

The voltage regulator box converts 12/24v from the vehicle down to 5v for the camera. It has a "battery saver" feature built in with four switchable voltage levels that will turn off the camera in order to prevent running down the car's battery. This helps insure that you don't return to a dead car battery.

One of the things I also appreciate is substantial/sturdy wiring. The power cables in the Viofo hardwire kit are 20g wires which helps to minimize voltage sag over long wire runs. The 24g wire is the yellow trigger wire that toggles parking mode with drive mode for recording - it doesn't need to deliver any real current, so it's fine that it is thinner gauge wire. I'll have to do some voltage measurements to compare the HK3-C to the HK4 to see if they are indeed the very same regulator, just with a different shaped connector on the end (I suspect this is the case). In his earlier message, @Chuck McCoy was referring to my previous tear-down of the HK3-C hardwire kit as I was exploring it's behavioral characteristics while building my LTO parking battery. I would guess that opening the HK4 case will reveal a newer revision of the same PCB in the HK3-C given that time that has gone by. I did order an HK6 regulator that should arrive tomorrow, so I'll have a look at that one, too. I'm curious to learn about the Bluetooth enabled hybrid parking mode control that it affords and how that will interact with my DIY LTO parking battery (Build images and circuit schematic). I'm not sure if the BMS will shut down my battery first, or if the hardwire kit will shut down the camera first... I think I set the BMS to turn off at about 12.0v, but I don't remember at this point.

So many things to play with!

 

[EricSan]

Here are a few images of the inside of the HK4 regulator. It is clearly an updated design when compared to the HK3-C regulator. I presume the redesign is intended to increase its power efficiency. My measurements indicate that it consumes about 0.1w in drive mode and hair less (~0.09w) in parking mode. At the USB-C end of the cable, the regulator provides about 4.96v with no load, and about 5.05v with a 6w load.

This is the top side of the HK4 regulator board, 12v input is on the left and the 5v output is on the right.

And this is the bottom side and input/output sides are reversed: Output is on the left and input is on the right.

 

[EricSan]

I also picked up an HK6 hardwire kit as I am curious to learn about how the hybrid parking mode settings will interact with my LTO parking battery that has a voltage range of 15.9v to about 12.0v or so (I don't hardwire to the car's fuse box).

The HK6 is an entirely different modular design (detachable cables) that provides a few extra features, which are pretty cool. The cable that connects the HK6 to the car's battery/electrical system is 1m in length. The USB-C cable that connects the HK6 to the camera measures 3m, or about 10ft. With the combined length of these two cables (4m or about 13ft), there is plenty of length to reach where you need it to. For my 4-door sedan, the power cables reach more than half way across my front windshield, all of the way to the back of the car, and into the trunk where my parking battery lives. And there is still a little bit of length left over... Awesome!

EDIT: I posted some measurements of the power consumed by the HK6 hardwire kit here.

The 12v input side of the HK6 has the usual 3-wire arrangement, complete with labelled wires so you don't inadvertently mix things up during installation.

This is the 3-wire power supply connector that connects your fusebox to the HK6 regulator itself. I appreciate the additional glue at the back side of the clip to hold the wires to prevent wiggling which will also prevent premature wire failure.

The opposite side of the HK6 regulator has a curious 4-wire connection instead of the usual 3-wire (red + black for power supply + yellow to toggle park/drive mode). This extra wire enables the hybrid parking mode and the communication of battery voltage level that overlays the dashcam video.

And here is the USB-C wire that connects the HK6 to the Viofo dashcam. Again, I appreciate the added glue to hold the wires in place - this is robust cable construction 👍

EDIT: I've also made a few measurements to map these four wires to the USB-C pinout in Post #70 below.

The regulator itself has a 4-position switch that allows you to select the level of battery protection you desire when hardwiring to your car's fusebox.

Another interesting design change for the HK6 regulator is the use of thicker 18ga wires to deliver the power to the dashcam. I'm a big fan of "over designing" things, especially power supplies! This has the added benefit of delivering power to the camera more efficiently (less voltage loss over the cable length). The 26g wires are for triggering park/drive mode and communicating flags to the camera to control hybrid parking mode as well as battery voltage. These are very low current draw applications, so heavier wire is of less benefit. I haven't yet spent the time to map out the specific signal voltage levels present on the yellow and white wires.

 

[EricSan]

The last supplemental attachment that I picked up was the Viovo-specific USB-C cable intended to connect the A329T camera to external SSD storage. I ordered the 2.5m cable and it's a robust cable for sure. I presume the additional cable thickness is a function of shielding to prevent EMI interference to protect the huge flow of data.

I appreciate the 90 degree USB-C connectors on the end so the cable lays flat against the body of the camera as well as along the UCB-C slot on the SSD as well. Those cable ends are a bit on the large side, which might cause you to struggle a bit more while snaking the cable along your headliner, down the A-pillar and into the glove box. I don't yet have an appropriate SSD, but now I'm wired for one, so the future addition will be a snap. Viofo went the extra mile to label each end of this wire as well, though I was amused to see that each silver tag was imprinted with "Connect to cam."

 

[Chuck McCoy]

What is the function of the white wire?
See attached photo.

 

[EricSan]

I'm not sure yet. I'll need to play around a little bit and that will be harder since I've already fully installed the camera in my car. There are two additional functions with the HK6: 1) hybrid parking mode that switches LBR parking mode to Collision Detection mode once the car's battery falls below a certain voltage, and 2) the A329 main camera receives the voltage car/parking battery voltage level as detected by the HK6 regulator (see images below). I'm not sure how either of these functions are implemented yet. It could be that the yellow parking mode trigger conveys a three-stage voltage signal (5v for drive mode, 0v for park mode, somewhere in the middle for hybrid park mode), leaving the white wire for battery voltage transmission. Not sure until I do some additional measurements.

The HK6 is also not held together with screws (darn!), so disassembly is a bit more challenging. It could either snap together (likely because it lowers manufacturing costs) or it could be glued. Either way, I tend to break devices like this when I try to open them because I don't know what the locking mechanism is between the two half shells...

 

[Chuck McCoy]

The HK6 is also not held together with screws, so disassembly is a bit more complex. It could either snap together (likely because it lowers manufacturing costs) or it could be glued. Either way, I tend to break devices like this when I try to open them because I don't know what the locking mechanism is between the two half shells...

My brother says;
"When it comes to opening things with a sharp tool, never cut towards yourself, always cut towards SOMEONE ELSE"
LMAO!

 

[EricSan]

Here are a few early images to demonstrate the differences with HDR on and off as well as to illustrate the differences between the 4k main camera and the 2k 4x telephoto lens. Initial impressions are VERY impressive!

First up, here is a JPG image (that the forum will likely convert to WEBP and simultaneously downres) at maximum resolution from the front camera. HDR is off (no marker in the stamp on the image). The voltage of my parking battery is also indicated at 15.79v (fully charged). Resolution is 3840x2160 and the JPG file is 532kb in size. For all of the images in this post, there is also a circular polarizer installed on all cameras.

Here is the same scene with HDR turned on - note the "HDR" stamp in the bottom right of the image. The HDR process creates a bit of a warmer/yellow cast to the image - which is fine by me, I will prioritize image detail ahead of color rendition for any dashcam (something I would not tolerate from my digital SLR camera).

I much prefer the "letterboxed" 20:9 aspect ratio that crops off the top (don't need more footage of clouds) and bottom of the image (don't need to see my dashboard and radar detector - I know they are there), resulting in 3840x1600 resolution (481kb file size) as seen below. Without the additional footage of the clouds, my wife teases me that I'll miss capturing footage of the UFOs flying overhead... 😉

Below are some zoomed and cropped images from above so we can get a little more detail of the cars and building ahead:

With HDR on, 200% zoom on the original JPG image made by the 4k front camera with voice control "Take Photo!" command. In the two images immediately below, you can spot a little bit of digital artifacts from overall compression just above each store's logo, but this is VERY mild. The very high bitrate from the A329 does a GREAT job preserving static details.

With HDR off, 200% zoom on the original JPG image made by the 4k front camera with voice control "Take Photo!" command. There are slight difference because the sun is shining more brightly above than below - darn clouds...

In ALL images above, the plate on the white Mini Cooper under the "Great Clips" store logo is unreadable - the car is just too far away. I'm not picking on this particular camera, this is just too long of a distance for ANY dashcam... UNTIL you have a look at the A329T. The "T" is for 4x telephoto and it makes a significant improvement!

Same scene as above, but the image below comes from the 2k 4x telephoto camera. As you see in the stamp, HDR is off. Full resolution of this image is 2560x1440, 370kb filesize. Comparing the straight image from the telephoto provide a very clear improvement in visible detail across the entire image. The improvements in fine detail are most evident with the brickwork in the vertical pillars of the storefront.

Here is the same image (from the 2k 4x telephoto camera) with HDR on (see stamp at bottom right of image):

And here is where things REALLY get interesting, let's look at similar 200% zoom from the 4x telephoto camera and see what we get:

In the image above, that plate is now readable - it's not perfect, but it IS readable from quite some distance away! Super awesome!

The image below is the very same scene (a 200% zoom on an image made by the 2k 4x telephoto camera), but with HDR turned on:

With HDR enabled on the 2k 4x telephoto front camera, the plate on the Mini Cooper is now easily readable. Note that HDR prevents over-exposure: the back of the Mini is no longer over-blown. You can see the same level of restored detail in the concrete work on the building just in front of the left-side rear view mirror.

That's impressive performance from all of the way across the parking lot! Awesome! A very clear limitation here is these are static images - my car and the cars in the images are stationary. Moving subjects present a whole new set of challenges. I'll post a similar comparison of dynamic images shortly.

 

[Finnegan]

My system, all 3 cams, are set to auto on HDR at dusk and off at dawn. I will try
leaving HDR on at all times now. It can be hard to tell without the advantage
of side-by-side imagery. Thanks!

I have no Tele cam. Yet.

 

[Chuck McCoy]

HDR

side-by-side imagery

Nice work.
Testing HDR for “accurate real world results” requires the subject, and the camera to both be in motion, (of course EricSan knows this I just want to remind future members / guests).
I love stationary testing too, because it’s an easy way to just feel out the camera, and make easy side by side comparison with other cameras.
Thanks for not adding a blur to the 2010 MINI Cooper PA# MFV1295 so I can confirm & verify.

 

[EricSan]

requires the subject, and the camera to both be in motion

Yep, that's next 🙂. Didn't have time to drive circles today waiting for the traffic patterns to be "just right" for more dynamic captures. I figured I'd start with the easy/simple stuff and go from there.

Even these static comparisons show a difference, though, and it's the most basic and "controlled" environment to compare features and image modes (though, there were some clouds in the sky, so some scenes were more sunny than others). I now have 4 cameras in my car, lined up side by side so they don't "interfere" with one another and I have another long drive on Thurs so I should be able to capture some good footage explore full sun vs shade with moving targets.

Given that HDR is a technique that involves combining multiple images, HDR is likely to be more effective with static scenes during the daytime like I posted above When both cars are moving, overlaying images is potentially more likely to result in some blurring of the image, depending on specific circumstances.

hanks for not adding a blur to the 2010 MINI Cooper

Yeah, I often wonder if I should cover part of the plates that I post... Part of me feels wrong about posting all of the identifying information, but at the same time, this information is intended to be public facing. While it is "public" information, people tend to go about their lives in public with the expectation that their specific activities are not being captured and cataloged at all times. Given the "non-controversial' nature of this particular set of shops (as opposed to other potential locations), I'm not feeling like I'm revealing anything particularly sensitive...

 

[EricSan]

My system, all 3 cams, are set to auto on HDR at dusk and off at dawn.

This is generally they way I approach this setting as well. Each camera seems to provide slightly different results, so I'm looking to make a more clear set of comparison. I need to include dynamic scenes as well as night time scenes to see how things go.

 

[EricSan]

Here are some comparisons of the rear camera with HDR on and off. The rear camera is also fitted with a circular polarizer (that is rectangular in shape, like the one for the front telephoto camera).

This first image is from the rear camera, set to highest resolution, with HDR turned off, 2560 x 1440 resolution, 309kb filesize:

And the one below is the very same scene with HDR turned on, 2560 x 1440 resolution, 417kb filesize:

And some 200% zooms from the JPG images. The image below is with HDR turned off:

And the same image/scene with HDR turned on:

I did pan over to the right to catch the rear end of the pick up truck that is parked there, but the plate is completely unreadable in both exposures. Again, it's a distance vs resolution thing: the truck is simply too far away for the plate to be resolved. Looking at the two cars as well as the concrete curb and the grey part of the trailer, it looks like (at least in this setting) the HDR process for the rear camera introduces a mild level of digital artifacts that are much less evident in the images from the front cameras that I posted above. Overall, these are pretty clean images - remember we're zoomed at 200% for the two images directly above.