ftpGuy
Member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2015
- Messages
- 40
- Reaction score
- 33
- Location
- New York
- Country
- United States
- Dash Cam
- Street Guardian SG9665GC
Finally got around to doing a hard wired install of my Street Guardian SG9665GC into a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Easy install. I won't go into a step by step install as most members know the basics but will share a few photos along with some basic info pertaining to this particular install.
Initial testing looked okay though I did think it would be better. Going to adjust the lens down a notch on next test run.
The basic part list and where I purchased them from are...
Street Guardian SG9665GC
Cell Power CPUSB01 Mini USB Power Adapter
ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder (add your own fuse)
Dashcam and GPS logger were mounted as shown below. Running the power adapter wires was easy on this vehicle. Unlike the old days, headliner pulls down. Simply tuck wires up between liner and vehicle roof.
Next, using dashcam supplied tool, pry the A-pillar slightly towards you allowing the cable to be tucked under and out of sight.
Lift up on the black rubber molding lip and slip your cable underneath. Repeat, rinse, repeat until you get near the fuse panel area. There you find a nice seam that you can easy tuck the cable in.
Used location #32 "ACC" which uses a 7.5 A fuse. (See your manual.) Remove the fuse. Easier to put fuses in the holder before putting back in fuse panel. Make sure the fuse you are adding for the dashcam is inline with the wire lead . The factory fuse goes in the other slot. This will allow the dashcam to turn on and off with the vehicle. 5A is usually fine for the dashcam. Again, search the forums for more info on fuse choices.
There is a cover on the drivers side of the dash shown in image #2 that can be removed which has a small bolt that can be used for a ground. Will take some patience to get wiring there while laying on the floor but works. Didn't see much else existing to use so that was the path I took. Will need to strip a few inches of the cable sleeve allowing you to split the wires allowing reach. The power adapter cord length is plenty long so no issues there.
Attach your Cell Power USB "hot" wire to the fuse holder (soldered connection with shrink tubing is best IMO). Using cable, zip ties or other methods, tidy up your wires/cable making sure they are securely tucked away as to not impair driving. Connect dash cam. Start vehicle. Should be good.
Please see the below images for dashcam and GPS logger placement. In this case, the logger was "flipped." Search the forums for more details on this. From the drivers seat, I can see the dashcam power/record/mic lights and easy tap the "lock" button if wanted. While tight, have room to access the micro SD card. Removal of cam is a non issue. Plug and unplug wires BEFORE mounting or removing the cam.
This writeup may not be 100% correct in terms, spelling, or my approach to install. However, I do hope members find it of some value. Thank you for reading.
Initial testing looked okay though I did think it would be better. Going to adjust the lens down a notch on next test run.
The basic part list and where I purchased them from are...
Street Guardian SG9665GC
Cell Power CPUSB01 Mini USB Power Adapter
ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder (add your own fuse)
Dashcam and GPS logger were mounted as shown below. Running the power adapter wires was easy on this vehicle. Unlike the old days, headliner pulls down. Simply tuck wires up between liner and vehicle roof.
Next, using dashcam supplied tool, pry the A-pillar slightly towards you allowing the cable to be tucked under and out of sight.
Lift up on the black rubber molding lip and slip your cable underneath. Repeat, rinse, repeat until you get near the fuse panel area. There you find a nice seam that you can easy tuck the cable in.
Used location #32 "ACC" which uses a 7.5 A fuse. (See your manual.) Remove the fuse. Easier to put fuses in the holder before putting back in fuse panel. Make sure the fuse you are adding for the dashcam is inline with the wire lead . The factory fuse goes in the other slot. This will allow the dashcam to turn on and off with the vehicle. 5A is usually fine for the dashcam. Again, search the forums for more info on fuse choices.
There is a cover on the drivers side of the dash shown in image #2 that can be removed which has a small bolt that can be used for a ground. Will take some patience to get wiring there while laying on the floor but works. Didn't see much else existing to use so that was the path I took. Will need to strip a few inches of the cable sleeve allowing you to split the wires allowing reach. The power adapter cord length is plenty long so no issues there.
Attach your Cell Power USB "hot" wire to the fuse holder (soldered connection with shrink tubing is best IMO). Using cable, zip ties or other methods, tidy up your wires/cable making sure they are securely tucked away as to not impair driving. Connect dash cam. Start vehicle. Should be good.
Please see the below images for dashcam and GPS logger placement. In this case, the logger was "flipped." Search the forums for more details on this. From the drivers seat, I can see the dashcam power/record/mic lights and easy tap the "lock" button if wanted. While tight, have room to access the micro SD card. Removal of cam is a non issue. Plug and unplug wires BEFORE mounting or removing the cam.
This writeup may not be 100% correct in terms, spelling, or my approach to install. However, I do hope members find it of some value. Thank you for reading.
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