SGDCHW Add-A-Fuse Micro 2’s Don’t Fit Ford F150

Yes. Ford owners will have to go creative if they want to plug anything into their fuse box.
 
Here's is the fuse diagram from the owner's manual (attached). I have the yellow wire (BATTERY UNSWITCHED) going to fuse #26 (passenger door control module) and the red wire (ACC SWITCHED) going to fuse #33 (radio). Does "BATTERY UNSWITCHED" mean always on no matter what and "ACC SWITCHED" means only on with the ignition?
 

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Here's is the fuse diagram from the owner's manual (attached). I have the yellow wire (BATTERY UNSWITCHED) going to fuse #26 (passenger door control module) and the red wire (ACC SWITCHED) going to fuse #33 (radio). Does "BATTERY UNSWITCHED" mean always on no matter what and "ACC SWITCHED" means only on with the ignition?

Check to see if Fuse #24 is always hot. Central Lock / Unlock. Give that a try on yellow wire. Fuse #27 Vista / Moonroof might be a good ACC for Red Wire.

You also have a bunch of "Spare Fuses" you could check to see if any are hot when the car is turned off (Yellow). And if any are archive for ACC (red)

Tying into modules could be problematic in that these systems might be connected to other systems. Sans my 12V socket being tied into the security system (Door Lock / Mirror Folding). And I'm not keen on tying into electronics like the Radio, etc. I try to find the most benign systems to tap into. Avoiding "modules" as if I understand @jokkin correct, these can be tied into the Canbus where other systems are inter related.

Does your car not have power seats? I used that on my vehicle but absolutely don't see power seats on yours.
 
I have the Power Input setting on 3 Wire, Parking Monitor at 2 fps, and Shutdown Timer at 24 hours. I've tried formatting the card, restarting the truck multiple times, powering the dash cam on/off and it still keeps recording full video continuously. So let me ask this question. How does the dash cam know when to go into parking mode? What are the conditions for when the camera goes, "oh, okay, now it's time to switch over to parking mode."?

I think if I could understand that much, maybe I can figure out a way to troubleshoot this. Right now, I'm at a loss.
 
Mine does have power seats, but no moon/sun roof.
 
Mine does have power seats, but no moon/sun roof.

What fuse is power seats? I didn't see that on the manual you provided? I tap into power seats for Battery on my vehicle. very benign circuit on my car with zero other systems tied to it. I used heated seats for my acc.

Manual you provided makes no mention of power seats so I don't know if other systems are tied to them or not.
 
I have the Power Input setting on 3 Wire, Parking Monitor at 2 fps, and Shutdown Timer at 24 hours. I've tried formatting the card, restarting the truck multiple times, powering the dash cam on/off and it still keeps recording full video continuously. So let me ask this question. How does the dash cam know when to go into parking mode? What are the conditions for when the camera goes, "oh, okay, now it's time to switch over to parking mode."?

I think if I could understand that much, maybe I can figure out a way to troubleshoot this. Right now, I'm at a loss.

I cannot answer this question as I don't own a Street Guardian. On the Viofo A129, the camera beeps and then there is a P symbol indicating the camera has transition to parking mode. I am not sure what Street Guardian uses.

I truly think your issue is improper fuse selection. Also, if available, disable Motion Detection and utilize low bitrate recording mode. using 2 FPS is crap. You want to record live action as it happens. Low FPS is going to miss stuff and provide insufficient proof.
 
Check out this video


You hear a beep and see an analog clock icon appear in the upper right. You can manually unplug your red wire to simulate accessory cut off.

A quick way to troubleshoot & confirm the hardwire kit is working correctly is to use some jumper cables and some smaller alligator clips to bring power from the battery to the inside the the vehicle right next to the hardwire kit without having remove it completely. This will take the fuse panel out of the mix, and prevent the need to remove anything just to confirm things work as expected via simple direct power.

Connect both red (ACC) and yellow (BAT+) wires directly to the positive terminal of your battery and black to negative.

You can then simulate parking mode by removing the red wire as shown in the video here.
Notice the beep and circle/clock icon appearing in the upper right corner of the screen.

You can then reconnect the red (ACC) wire to make sure it returns to normal driving/recording mode.

This would be the fastest way to gather information on the basics first

Here is another support message we send out initially when we get support requests about parking mode setup.

>>>>>>
If you are experiencing power problems with your Hardwire Kit or parking mode is not recording while the vehicle is parked, please check the following.

1. Are both fuse taps attached, and have 2 fuses inserted into each? The fuse closest to the terminal is for the original fuse from your vehicle, the fuse toward the outside of the fuse tap, which lines up with the red wire is for the hardwire kit (Amber 5 Amp).

2. Do you have a good ground connection? It is essential that the fuse kit is earthed correctly for it to function.

3. Are the Red and Yellow wires correctly connected? Red should be to connected to switched accessory power source, yellow to permanent battery power source.

4. Ensure that the small red LED light on the Hardwire Kit is lighting up when connected.

5. If all power connections are correct and the Camera does not record when parked, check that you have enabled the 3-wire connection in the Camera menu, per the instructions in the manual, which can be found here - http://bit.ly/HardwireManualEN
 
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The power seats are in the other fuse panel under the hood. I do have a volt meter, but am unsure how to test which fuses are hot and when. Touch the black lead to the ground screw and the red lead to the fuse terminal? I guess it would be trial and error as to which polarity of the fuse to touch. The fuse box is hard to reach and it'll be difficult to poke around with the volt meter.

There's a thread on the F150 forums in post #10 where someone posted a photo and advised they used fuses #26 and #33, so those are the same ones I've hooked up to: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/where-wire-dash-cam-445159/
 
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So does "BATTERY UNSWITCHED" mean always on no matter what and "ACC SWITCHED" means only on with the ignition?

I've checked the list should be good on #'s 1 - 5 as the fuse kit does light up red and the camera does record. The video doesn't quite demonstrate how the dash cam knows when to decide when go in to parking mode. Does it go into parking mode when there's a good ground and:

A. It has power from both the red and yellow wires?
B. It has power from the red wire, but not the yellow wire?
C. It has power from the yellow wire, but not the red wire?
D. It has no power from either wire?
 
So let me ask this question. How does the dash cam know when to go into parking mode? What are the conditions for when the camera goes, "oh, okay, now it's time to switch over to parking mode."?

I think if I could understand that much, maybe I can figure out a way to troubleshoot this. Right now, I'm at a loss.
when the ACC power turns off the camera switches to parking mode, if it keeps recording as normal then the ACC is not turning off, in some Ford models the ACC switched circuits are either timed (don't turn off until 10 minutes later etc) or on a delay to not turn off until you exit the vehicle, something else to check
 
So does "BATTERY UNSWITCHED" mean always on no matter what and "ACC SWITCHED" means only on with the ignition?

I've checked the list should be good on #'s 1 - 5 as the fuse kit does light up red and the camera does record. The video doesn't quite demonstrate how the dash cam knows when to decide when go in to parking mode. Does it go into parking mode when there's a good ground and:

A. It has power from both the red and yellow wires?
B. It has power from the red wire, but not the yellow wire?
C. It has power from the yellow wire, but not the red wire?
D. It has no power from either wire?
C. ACC needs to be off, you can unplug the red wire to simulate this
 
So the goal is to find a fuse for the red wire (ACC) that is not hot when the ignition is off? And, is it polarized where I must plug the add-a-fuse into the box a certain orientation?
 
So the goal is to find a fuse for the red wire (ACC) that is not hot when the ignition is off?
correct
And, is it polarized where I must plug the add-a-fuse into the box a certain orientation?
one side of the fuse panel is hot, the other is the output to the circuit, the side the wire comes out of the tap is the output side
 
49965173106_429d4d1fd1_o.jpg
 
yes, I won't say always, but in most cases on these types of double row fuse panels the middle of the two rows will be hot, and the outside leg on each side of the panel is the output, need to see it from behind to understand that better
 
Now I'm formulating a game plan how to troubleshoot this. I'm going to at least try pulling out the red wire just to force it into parking mode. And if I can ask, how does it know when to come out of parking mode and go back to regular recording?
 
Check out this video


You hear a beep and see an analog clock icon appear in the upper right. You can manually unplug your red wire to simulate accessory cut off.

A quick way to troubleshoot & confirm the hardwire kit is working correctly is to use some jumper cables and some smaller alligator clips to bring power from the battery to the inside the the vehicle right next to the hardwire kit without having remove it completely. This will take the fuse panel out of the mix, and prevent the need to remove anything just to confirm things work as expected via simple direct power.

Connect both red (ACC) and yellow (BAT+) wires directly to the positive terminal of your battery and black to negative.

You can then simulate parking mode by removing the red wire as shown in the video here.
Notice the beep and circle/clock icon appearing in the upper right corner of the screen.

You can then reconnect the red (ACC) wire to make sure it returns to normal driving/recording mode.

This would be the fastest way to gather information on the basics first

Here is another support message we send out initially when we get support requests about parking mode setup.

>>>>>>
If you are experiencing power problems with your Hardwire Kit or parking mode is not recording while the vehicle is parked, please check the following.

1. Are both fuse taps attached, and have 2 fuses inserted into each? The fuse closest to the terminal is for the original fuse from your vehicle, the fuse toward the outside of the fuse tap, which lines up with the red wire is for the hardwire kit (Amber 5 Amp).

2. Do you have a good ground connection? It is essential that the fuse kit is earthed correctly for it to function.

3. Are the Red and Yellow wires correctly connected? Red should be to connected to switched accessory power source, yellow to permanent battery power source.

4. Ensure that the small red LED light on the Hardwire Kit is lighting up when connected.

5. If all power connections are correct and the Camera does not record when parked, check that you have enabled the 3-wire connection in the Camera menu, per the instructions in the manual, which can be found here - http://bit.ly/HardwireManualEN
 
And if I can ask, how does it know when to come out of parking mode and go back to regular recording?
when the ACC wire gets power again it will change back to normal recording, or if the camera had turned off powering the ACC wire will turn it back on
 
The power seats are in the other fuse panel under the hood. I do have a volt meter, but am unsure how to test which fuses are hot and when. Touch the black lead to the ground screw and the red lead to the fuse terminal? I guess it would be trial and error as to which polarity of the fuse to touch. The fuse box is hard to reach and it'll difficult to poke around with the volt meter.

There's a thread on the F150 forums in post #10 where someone posted a photo and advised they used fuses #26 and #33, so those are the same ones I've hooked up to: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/where-wire-dash-cam-445159/

Take an LED light tester and tap the metal on the top of the use with the tip of the tester. If it lights up when the car is completely turned off, that's a "Hot Fuse". Meaning it's active at all times: Check to see if Fuse #24 to see if it's a hot fuse.


Central Lock / Unlock. - a Fuse on ACC will only light up when the car is started. Which is the whole point of an accessory fuse. It tells the camera to when the car is on and off. Check to see if Fuse #24 is always hot. With power seats under the hood that's a no go.

#23 is Power Windows. Should be OK for ACC.

You have a bunch of fuses that are empty. You could try to test those to see which are hot and which are ACC. Bit of guessing as empty might not mean they aren't tied into other systems somehow.
 
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