Slimline Mobius Mount

Alan Collinge

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Joined
Feb 28, 2014
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Location
Manchester
Country
United Kingdom
Dash Cam
Mini 0801, 808 #16, F900 fake, DM TransVu Express
I ordered the stick on ball and socket mount with my new Mobius Dashcam but even though it's quite a bit smaller than the suction cup mount I wanted something more discreet so I decided to make my own from a bit of aluminium, a suitable screw that I had in my spares box and a double sided pad.
Mobius Bracket R.jpg
 
Is the aluminum flexible enough to adjust the angle or did you determine the angle before you fabricated this? I've been planning on doing something similar to what you've done here but with a piece of steel which would accommodate bending even after installation. I also ordered some rare earth magnets from Banggood to use for mounting as inspired by some of Niko's designs but your simple screw mount is very nice.
 
I calculated the angle first using a small spirit level and a joiners sliding bevel. Then after installation I was able to make small adjustments to the angle by bending the aluminium while it was bonded to the glass. I would like to get the camera closer to the glass to reduce some of the reflections so I may modify the Mobius cradle by moving the threaded boss nearer the back of the cradle.
 
I have experimented with many steel / aluminium / metal thicknesses and found that for Mobius is enough 1-1.5mm, because Mobius is not that heavy. First make approximate angle and after install you can adjust angle 10-20% up or down with no problem. Of course the thicker metal you go with, the better, but with thicker one is much harder to work for quick DIY. Too thin on the other hand will lead to vibrations.
 
Thanks for your reply. One option if you can't easily get the camera closer to the glass (or in addition to) is to fabricate a lens shade. I found this helps with reflections as well as lens flare if the sun is at a bad angle. I did this with my GT300W when I discovered that an old Kodak 35mm film canister is the exact diameter to slide over the lens. The trick is to cut it just long enough to avoid vignetting but long enough to shade the lens . * One disadvantage I've found to mounting dash cams very close to the glass is that they become much more visible from outside the car.

* The other end of the film canister made a great lens cap.
 
Looks great! My poor Mobius has been collecting dust as I can't find a mount that will allow it to be mounted in a discreet area of my car. The rear view is very close to the windshield so its hard to get it in there in a good spot.

Can you list what parts you used so I can possibly stop by hardware store and pick them up?
 
Looks great! My poor Mobius has been collecting dust as I can't find a mount that will allow it to be mounted in a discreet area of my car. The rear view is very close to the windshield so its hard to get it in there in a good spot.

Can you list what parts you used so I can possibly stop by hardware store and pick them up?

If you haven't already got one, you'll need one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/181173847427It's the mounting base for the Mobius, what I call the cradle: Mounting Base.jpg

You'll also need a double sided adhesive tab, the type used for fixing rear view mirrors to the screen. Should be available from most auto accessory shops or Ebay.

The other two components you may find difficult to source. A piece of soft aluminium approximately 1" x 3 1/2" x 1/16" thick and a suitable screw to fit the boss on the cradle. I was lucky with the screw as I found one off a very old camera tripod in my spares box. You should be able to figure out the rest from the photo but let me know if you need any more information.
 
Thanks for your reply. One option if you can't easily get the camera closer to the glass (or in addition to) is to fabricate a lens shade. I found this helps with reflections as well as lens flare if the sun is at a bad angle. I did this with my GT300W when I discovered that an old Kodak 35mm film canister is the exact diameter to slide over the lens. The trick is to cut it just long enough to avoid vignetting but long enough to shade the lens . * One disadvantage I've found to mounting dash cams very close to the glass is that they become much more visible from outside the car.

* The other end of the film canister made a great lens cap.

I did think about a lens shade but discounted it because I didn't want to introduce any vignetting. If I can get the camera a bit closer to the glass then I will only need a shallow lens shade. I guess I will have to experiment with different diameter tubes until I reach a happy medium and without making it too obvious from outside the car.

As for a 35mm film cannister, I threw my last one away in 1963 :D
 
Very neat and tidy Alan ...exactly the mounting method I think I will use in my Renault Trafic ...Thanks for posting it on here.
I have got a 90` angled power connector on order that will work very nicely for this aplication too ;).
 
Very neat and tidy Alan ...exactly the mounting method I think I will use in my Renault Trafic ...Thanks for posting it on here.
I have got a 90` angled power connector on order that will work very nicely for this aplication too ;).

Where did you get the 90 deg connector from Martin? I could do with a couple of them.
 
The other two components you may find difficult to source. A piece of soft aluminium approximately 1" x 3 1/2" x 1/16" thick and a suitable screw to fit the boss on the cradle. I was lucky with the screw as I found one off a very old camera tripod in my spares box. You should be able to figure out the rest from the photo but let me know if you need any more information.

Tripod mounts are actually standard 1/4-20 threaded screws or bolts that can be found at any good hardware store. Where I live they also sell many replacement parts that would include a knob connected to a 1/4-20 threaded screw similar to what Alan used from his old tripod. Many hardware stores here in the States also sell stock aluminum and steel rods, blanks and sheets in different sizes and thicknesses that would be suitable for this project. Perhaps these things are available in your area as well?

For visual reference regarding the threaded screw mount, here's an eBay link.
 
Tripod mounts are actually standard 1/4-20 threaded screws or bolts that can be found at any good hardware store. Where I live they also sell many replacement parts that would include a knob connected to a 1/4-20 threaded screw similar to what Alan used from his old tripod. Many hardware stores here in the States also sell stock aluminum and steel rods, blanks and sheets in different sizes and thicknesses that would be suitable for this project. Perhaps these things are available in your area as well?

For visual reference regarding the threaded screw mount, here's an eBay link.

That case screw https://www.ebay.com/itm/261404380381looks ideal.

The one I used has a large outside diameter which is bigger than the width of the aluminium bracket, making it easy to turn.
Case Screw.jpg
 
The replacement knobs from the local hardware store are somewhat similar and come in different diameters. They usually have a black plastic knob and look like this one:

knob.jpg

OK, now I'm curious so I'm going to stop by my local hardware store and have a look through their spare parts drawers!
 
The replacement knobs from the local hardware store are somewhat similar and come in different diameters. They usually have a black plastic knob and look like this one:

View attachment 4589

OK, now I'm curious so I'm going to stop by my local hardware store and have a look through their spare parts drawers!

I guess I was lucky having one available, it is quite important to get one that has a bigger diameter than the width of the aluminium bracket otherwise it would be difficult to turn the knob. There again there's no real reason why the bracket can't be shaped to accomodate that. (difficult to explain without a diagram)
 
Where did you get the 90 deg connector from Martin? I could do with a couple of them.

If buying a 90deg adapter, don't buy this one...


Doesn't work, i.e. prevents the camera from receiving current. Waste of money.
 
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