[SOLVED] dashcam hardwire kit for VW Golf -- which fuse?

atomicrabbit

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Dash Cam
VIOFO A119
I'm looking to get a hardwire kit for my A119 dashcam but I don't know which fuse to choose. Does it matter? I've figured out which fuse controls which component and the following fuses are off when the car is turned off (which is what I want because I don't want the dash cam killing my car battery):

1. Washer nozzle heaters, glove compartment light, memory seat control module (10A).
2. Turn signal lights (10A).
3. Fog light relay, instrument panel light dimmer switch (5A).
4. License plate light (5A).
5. Comfort system, cruise control, Climatronic, A/C, heated seat control modules, automatic day/night interior mirror, control module for multi-function steering wheel, control unit in steering wheel (7.5A).
6. (Open on my car) Central locking system (5A).
7. Back-up lights, speedometer vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (10A).
8. Open
9. Anti-lock brake system (ABS) (5A).
10. Engine control module (ECM): gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine, Model Year 2000 (5A).
11. Instrument cluster, shift lock solenoid (5A).
12-16. ON WHEN CAR IS OFF
17. Open.
18. Headlight high beam, right (10A).
19. Headlight high beam, left (10A).
20. Headlight low beam, right (15A).
21. Headlight low beam, left (15A).
22. Parking lights right, side marker right (5A).
23. Parking lights left, side marker left (5A).
24. Windshield and rear window washer pump, windshield wiper motor (20A).
25. Fresh air blower, Climatronic, A/C (25A).
26. Rear window defogger (25A).
27. Motor for rear windshield wiper (15A).
28. Fuel pump (FP) (15A).
29. Engine control module (ECM) gasoline engine (15A); diesel engine (10A).
30. (Open on my car -- don't have sunroof) Power sunroof control module (20A).
31. Transmission control module (TCM) (20A).
32. Injectors: gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine (15A).
33. (Open on my car -- don't have headlight washers) Headlight washer system (20A).
34. Engine control elements (10A).
35. ON WHEN CAR IS OFF
36. Fog lights (15A).
37-42. ON WHEN CAR IS OFF
43. Engine control elements (10A).
44. ON WHEN CAR IS OFF

Is there something in this list that's a good/safe fit for adding the hardwire kit to? Does it matter which type of fuse it is? 10A mini, 10/20/25A ATO? I don't know much about fuses.
 
Most people regardless of car tend to go for the rear heated window
 
I believe best practice is to choose the fuse whose purpose you could do without should an issue happen.
In your list...if I were choosing...I'd go with #4 License Plate Light.

As to your second question...most hard-wire kits come with a fuse tap...that is a connector that replaces the existing fuse with a "double fuse" socket. Socket #1 is for the original (so...if it was a 15A...kit's still a 15A, etc.), and Socket#2 is for the new device., Most dash cams draw very little power so you can usually go with a 3A or 5A.

The kit should have instructions and diagrams. There are also many install guide videos on YouTube.

Best of luck!
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I think choosing "the fuse whose purpose you could do without" makes sense. I guess the 5A license plate light would work.

As to your second question...most hard-wire kits come with a fuse tap...that is a connector that replaces the existing fuse with a "double fuse" socket. Socket #1 is for the original (so...if it was a 15A...kit's still a 15A, etc.), and Socket#2 is for the new device., Most dash cams draw very little power so you can usually go with a 3A or 5A.

The kit should have instructions and diagrams. There are also many install guide videos on YouTube.

Just to clarify, if I were to choose a fuse that used 15A, would I put the original 15A fuse in Socket #1 and the 3A or 5A fuse in Socket #2 for the cam? Or would I need to choose a fuse that originally had a 3A or 5A fuse?

Also, any suggestions on kits to buy in canada? I found this one but at $40CAD + $13 shipping, it's a little steep.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I think choosing "the fuse whose purpose you could do without" makes sense. I guess the 5A license plate light would work.



Just to clarify, if I were to choose a fuse that used 15A, would I put the original 15A fuse in Socket #1 and the 3A or 5A fuse in Socket #2 for the cam? Or would I need to choose a fuse that originally had a 3A or 5A fuse?

Also, any suggestions on kits to buy in canada? I found this one but at $40CAD + $13 shipping, it's a little steep.


You can choose an existing fuse of any size.
If you choose a fuse that is currently 15A...then a 15A goes in socket #1, and a 3A or 5A goes in Socket #2. (Think of socket #1 as the current item...and socket #2 as the dash cam).
I'm in the U.S., so I can't speak for which kits would be best for you.

As I said in my previous...check out YouTube for install videos...they are very helpful...and they may contain suggestion on best kits to buy.

Here is a set of step-by-step instructions on using a hard-wire install kit.
http://www.thedashcamstore.com/advanced-dashcam-installation/

(FYI...the example shown is for an "always on" install. The steps are the same...just use a fuse that is switched)

I hope it helps

Best of luck!
 
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Here our plate lights are an MOT failure if they don't work :(
 
I'm reading that you have several open fusible locations that are ignition powered. Instead of using a location that is already doing something, why not try one of the open locations you mentioned. If numbers 6, 8, 11, and 33 provide power, I'd strongly recommend using one of those with a 3A or 5A fuse to your camera.

I'm unsure where you're from, but in Ontario it is required under the HTA to have your license plate illuminated, so if you blew the lamp fuse without realizing, it is possible that you may get pulled over.
 
I am from Ontario -- good point.

If numbers 6, 8, 11, and 33 provide power, I'd strongly recommend using one of those with a 3A or 5A fuse to your camera.

6, 8, 17, 30 and 33 are all open slots, but only 6 has contacts. The rest don't have contacts for fuses. I'm not sure why 6, which was labelled "Central locking system" doesn't have a fuse, but after adding a fuse and testing, it does get power only when the car is on. So would I still use one of these and put a 3A or 5A fuse in EACH slot or just use one fuse on the top slot?
 
If hardwire connection,just to find one socket which always on even if engine off,and then red wire to 12v positive end,and black wire to GND.
 
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