Stunned by PMP instructions regarding connections

pjdaly

New Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
13
Reaction score
8
Country
United States
My PMP arrived today and I was stunned to read the instructions where it tells the user to wrap wire around a fuse leg. This is a gross hack you never want to do:

image.jpeg

To make matters worse, it says "around one of the blades ...". If you picked the load side of a big amp fuse you'd be over-fused. Or worse, if you picked the line side you'd be without fuse protection. Smell something burning?
 
I just looked at the PMP Manual, and pictures of the PMP.

I cannot believe that they do not have an inline fuse in ACC and BAT lines.

The Vico Power-Plus has a 2A fuse in the Battery lead, but no fuse in the ACC lead, which only senses whether there is power applied and does not draw any operating current through the ACC lead.

I still used a Fuse Tapper on both connections.

And OBTW, the Power-Plus also shows wrapping the leads around the fuse blade.

RodeoGeorge
 
I've seen forums where "installers" gave step-by-step instructions on how to install using the "wrap-around" method.

My PMP, purchased in the UK, did not have the "wrap-around" instructions shown above. It doesn't cost much more to buy two add-a-fuse adaptors and do the job properly, and safely.
 
The "wrap-around" method is crude.. but on a lot of vehicles using a fuse tap means you give up the cover over the fuse box. I soldered my lead to the leg of a fuse, wasted a few fuses until I got it right :( however by going that route I was able to put my fuse cover back on (2011 Toyota highlander). And as noted above.. very important to wrap (or solder) to the correct leg leg.
 
And OBTW, the Power-Plus also shows wrapping the leads around the fuse blade.

RodeoGeorge
I just bought one, I was surprised to see that. At least they do mention using add-a-circuits as an alternative.
I was also surprised it was only rated at 1A (2A max) and that the wires were so thin.
Also the output voltage is about 0.9V lower than its input voltage. I wonder if the output goes through a diode and that's the voltage drop.

Having said that, it's working fine and seems to cope with my 0806 and TomTom sat nav running through it. (I cut off the cigar socket and wired in a 12V to 2xUSB convertor.)
It's actually a very nice device. For some reason I thought it would be more complicated.
 
Yeah, the Vico manual even illustrates it:

ca47f04987.jpg
 
full size 10amp.jpg fuses2.jpg addafuse correct.jpg View attachment 26213

That is the most disgusting and unprofessional way of wiring anything. If a sparky did that to my car he wouldnt be paid or ever touch a vehicle of mine again
There are ADDAFUSES made to do this properly and there is a thread on how to use them correctly.
You also have to be careful with some stuff as a lot of devices are only 5 V and frequently have a stepdown in the ciggy plug. Have seem a few things blown up when a smartass cuts the plug off and wires it to 12 volt.

This method is also a good way to have your car end up in a pile of ashes if the fuse overheats and starts a fire
My Tomtom runs on 5v via USB

Pictures show an Addafuse and a fuse with a pigtail already soldered on (Its hard to do yourself due to finish of metal in fuses) Can be bought at kitset shops like Jaycar in AUS
Big photo is those installed in spare fuse slots in a VW Passat
 
Last edited:
Yeah, the Vico manual even illustrates it:

That's shocking o_O

It would only cost them a dollar to include a fuse tap to their kit.
 
Well, technically they'd have to include 4 taps: 2 mini-blades, and 2 normal blades. I have one of each.

But yes, the instructions are appalling. Especially as Joe Random might end up picking the supply side leg of the fuse, which would leave you at risk of a red hot wire surrounded by plastic!!!
 
Why 4 taps You only connect 3 wires and one is an earth to which i crimped a ring You dont need line fuses as the ciggy plug usually has a 2 amp fuse in it and would blow long befor the car fuse

What is needed are two addafuses or two pigtailed fuses like I use. Crimped bullets to fit. Or spades if you like One ring for the earth two fuses of 5 amps or less for the top slot in the addafuses
Thats all I have used on the 6 or so cameras I have fitted in 4 different makes including 2 Vw's
 
Why 4 taps You only connect 3 wires and one is an earth to which i crimped a ring You dont need line fuses as the ciggy plug usually has a 2 amp fuse in it and would blow long befor the car fuse

What is needed are two addafuses or two pigtailed fuses like I use. Crimped bullets to fit. Or spades if you like One ring for the earth two fuses of 5 amps or less for the top slot in the addafuses
Thats all I have used on the 6 or so cameras I have fitted in 4 different makes including 2 Vw's

4 taps:

Because if you include them with the device, you do not know if the customer will need to use 2 full size, 2 mini blades or one of each. Hence you need to include 4 if you are going to do that at all.

Obviously the customer ends up using 2 and has 2 spare.
 
Far easier to include instructions and let the customer or installer to get the correct ones which are about $6 each here in Aus
 
Far easier to include instructions and let the customer or installer to get the correct ones which are about $6 each here in Aus

It would also be handy if Blackvue could maybe start a database of recommended circuits. My pro installer (who did a 1st class job of taking trim off and routing the cables through all the grommits and cableways) did not know. All he knew was "BMWs are a PITA". But it is a solvable problem, because after much buggering about I solved it, for one car. I'd be happy to contribute a "this works on an R56 MINI". Soon you'd have a pretty good DB and a lot less guessing :)
 
Well, technically they'd have to include 4 taps: 2 mini-blades, and 2 normal blades. I have one of each.

But yes, the instructions are appalling. Especially as Joe Random might end up picking the supply side leg of the fuse, which would leave you at risk of a red hot wire surrounded by plastic!!!

Right... that's what I was saying in my original post... picking the line (supply) side by mistake. You have a 50-50 chance of picking the wrong side when not testing to find the load side which is what you want. The instructions say "around one of the blades" as if it didn't matter which one!
 
I found another hazard mentioned by someone perhaps in another forum... can't recall where I saw it. The wrapping of the fuse leg with wire thickened the leg such that the contacts were spread apart. When removing the added device, you now have a loose fitting fuse and in his case a flaky connection.
 
Back
Top