Successfully Surviving Overheat, Heat Sinks Helped A LOT!

All these extras for the Blackview.. Want to reflect the heat? For free? Simply go to a window store that tints windows and ask for some samples or scraps ... I put a small strip of Titanium heat control film just above the DR900s back last December.. Works great..Cant even see it from the outside

Thank you for the suggestion.

You apply the Titanium heat control film on the dashcam or windshield? Outside temp currently above 85F. Q800Pro shut off after going to park mode within 2-3hrs. It cannot handle the heat. It doesn't matter indirect or direct sunlight, it still shut off if outside temp is above 80F.

Yesterday was around 80ish but little windy and some cloudy (not as hot) and Q800Pro still shut off.
 
I have a strip about 7 inch by 4 inch on the inside of the windshield. Cuts the direct heat on the 900s by a bunch......
well worth the trip to the tint store
 
I have a strip about 7 inch by 4 inch on the inside of the windshield. Cuts the direct heat on the 900s by a bunch......
well worth the trip to the tint store

what tint percentage just in case i go ask for the sample. thank
 
I have a strip about 7 inch by 4 inch on the inside of the windshield. Cuts the direct heat on the 900s by a bunch......
well worth the trip to the tint store

Would you mind taking a picture so I know actually how u put it on. Thank you
 
$3 dashcam mount from China

Pros:
Looks a lot more professional

Cons:
Dashcam more visible to outsiders now
Lexus has a huge windshield notch thing and that cuts into the image because mount is just a tad too short
Centering would allow notch reduction, but prevents the use of heatsinks
Heatsinks mutes the mic to about volume level 1 (when set to 5)


But hey, for $3 vs $100 for the blendmount I'll live with those cons.

$10 CPL filter, $6 heatsinks, $3 mount. On a $600 MSRP dashcam yeah I'm cheap LOL


IMG-20190713-164703.jpg

IMG-20190713-164723.jpg

IMG-20190713-171900.jpg

IMG-20190713-171927.jpg
 
I have a strip about 7 inch by 4 inch on the inside of the windshield. Cuts the direct heat on the 900s by a bunch......
well worth the trip to the tint store

Tinting 20% Gila heat shield plus and still overheat at 80ish degree.

Just for testing, I also use Raspberry Pi heatsink lolz still overheat. Maybe too small

heat.png
 
It's amazing what 3rd party companies can do for a product. In New Zealand and Australia, we get our Summer December to February, and in NZ, summer average temperatures are 20s to low 30s'C cause we don't use 'F.
 
$3 dashcam mount from China

Pros:
Looks a lot more professional

Cons:
Dashcam more visible to outsiders now
Lexus has a huge windshield notch thing and that cuts into the image because mount is just a tad too short
Centering would allow notch reduction, but prevents the use of heatsinks
Heatsinks mutes the mic to about volume level 1 (when set to 5)


But hey, for $3 vs $100 for the blendmount I'll live with those cons.

$10 CPL filter, $6 heatsinks, $3 mount. On a $600 MSRP dashcam yeah I'm cheap LOL


IMG-20190713-164703.jpg

IMG-20190713-164723.jpg

IMG-20190713-171900.jpg

IMG-20190713-171927.jpg
Where did you get the CPL from?
 
I’ve had 3 x CPV heatsinks on my DR900 for a few months now but as soon as spring came along it started overheating.
My case is unique in that the windscreen is both very inclined and has literally no frit or tint, so it’s always getting a good sunbathing session.

So far this has saved it from overheating but it I doubt it will when it’s 45C in the summer.

You’ll find these heatsinks all over eBay and the fan is a Noctua A4x10 FLX with a low noise adapter.
Spliced a 3.5mm/1.35mm right angled extension cable for power.
Bunnings has M3x12 countersunk screws that worked perfectly.

If you’re taking this project on yourself I’d suggest forgoing the low noise adapter as it’s already very quiet and using a bare aluminium heatsink if you don’t mind the look.
You can combine 30mm and 40mm heatsinks to maximise the area but I used 2 x 30mm to prevent all the vent holes from being covered.
Also, don’t go overkill on wire gauge or it’ll become an ugly heatshrunk tube like below.

5FFE249B-CDF0-48CF-8C33-CE10169138DA.jpeg

The thermal coupling between the internal components, the case and the heatsink isn’t very good to begin with, but it could be improved using some EK 0.5mm thermal pads. Personally I don’t think this will make a huge difference.

Edit: I reckon moving the 2 x 30mm heatsinks apart leaving space in the centre whilst having the heatsink tilted as far down as possible will push air into the lower vent holes - This would make a significant difference judging by the teardown on FCC.
 
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Can you send link for CPL filter.
It's the A119 filter. But it fits very loosely.

I took out the lens and made my own pressure mount and I must say, it looks very professional hehe.

Here's the file for anyone with a 3d printer, just rename to stl.

IFFVsZp.png
 
3D printing is over now i am waiting CPL filter...

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Did you do a fitment test first to see if it snugly fits onto the dashcam? If it fits then you'll have no problem putting the lens on it. I used PETG to avoid warping.

This damn thing took me 19 revisions make. First version was a C clamp but it blocked the recording led so I opted for a friction mount.

I’ve had 3 x CPV heatsinks on my DR900 for a few months now but as soon as spring came along it started overheating.
My case is unique in that the windscreen is both very inclined and has literally no frit or tint, so it’s always getting a good sunbathing session.

So far this has saved it from overheating but it I doubt it will when it’s 45C in the summer.

You’ll find these heatsinks all over eBay and the fan is a Noctua A4x10 FLX with a low noise adapter.
Spliced a 3.5mm/1.35mm right angled extension cable for power.
Bunnings has M3x12 countersunk screws that worked perfectly.

If you’re taking this project on yourself I’d suggest forgoing the low noise adapter as it’s already very quiet and using a bare aluminium heatsink if you don’t mind the look.
You can combine 30mm and 40mm heatsinks to maximise the area but I used 2 x 30mm to prevent all the vent holes from being covered.
Also, don’t go overkill on wire gauge or it’ll become an ugly heatshrunk tube like below.

The thermal coupling between the internal components, the case and the heatsink isn’t very good to begin with, but it could be improved using some EK 0.5mm thermal pads. Personally I don’t think this will make a huge difference.

Edit: I reckon moving the 2 x 30mm heatsinks apart leaving space in the centre whilst having the heatsink tilted as far down as possible will push air into the lower vent holes - This would make a significant difference judging by the teardown on FCC.

Very informative post. The thing I didn't like about my heatsink was that it muffled the speakers almost completely. I used a dremel to create a little channel or "river" so the sound can travel outward towards the power plug. It doesn't need to be deep and it works amazingly well. Level 5 volume sounds like lv3 now.
 
I cannot bring myself to order anything from Aliexpress. With everything I've read about phishing requests, ID requirements and being a Chinese company who knows where your personal data will end up or how it may be used or abused.
 
I cannot bring myself to order anything from Aliexpress. With everything I've read about phishing requests, ID requirements and being a Chinese company who knows where your personal data will end up or how it may be used or abused.
????

Use a credit card. You can use a fake name with your credit card as long as the billing zip code matches. If your name is John Smith mail it to Jenny Smith or something similar. You can also use a made up business name. Aliexpress is a legit website owned by Alibaba, more or less Chinese Amazon. Their payment processing is done in the united states and even includes things like chase verify and amex securekey.

The ID requirements to my knowledge are only done to high fraud countries where buyers abuse the system.

If they want to datamine there are much easier ways of doing so. Try googling your full name now and include things such as your zip code. Parcel information is public and so are arrest records. Really, what are they going to do with the information that Omega-TI bought a $3 RC heatsink to use on his dashcam?
 
I used to suffer paranoia once, but now I know they are all out to get me.
Ali Express is OK even if it is an unfortunate name as when referring to the Arabian Nights and 40 thieves.
 
I use a pre-paid debit card and gift cards for my online purchases, loading the pre-paid one with only enough to do my immediate shopping with. You can't extract money from those when none is in the account so they are safe even when they get hacked ;) The downside is a monthly fee but it's not too bad. You can also use "Gift Cards".

I've never had a problem with numerous purchases from AliExpress, Banggood, and Gearbest but I've had hacking problems twice with Ebay purchases using PayPal, so don't think that anything is better or safer in the USA because it isn't :cautious:

Phil
 
Bumping this, has Anyone else done this mod? I'd like to mount a heatsink directly to the board inside but tbh not sure what component is the issue. the sensor, but I assume that's not something you can direct attach a heatsink to.
 
Bumping this, has Anyone else done this mod? I'd like to mount a heatsink directly to the board inside but tbh not sure what component is the issue. the sensor, but I assume that's not something you can direct attach a heatsink to.

Nope, I've not done this mod. My motto has always been, "If it's not broken, don't fix it." I've had ZERO trouble with my DR900S-2CH over the years, which I wish could say about my NEW 3D printer or robot vacuum. In fact I've never even upgraded the firmware.
 
Bumping this, has Anyone else done this mod? I'd like to mount a heatsink directly to the board inside but tbh not sure what component is the issue. the sensor, but I assume that's not something you can direct attach a heatsink to.
The main problem is HiSilicon chip itself. You can at least add heatpad between the chip and top shield cover which helps dissipate some heat due to larger surface area (that's right, Blackvue cheaped out even on this as well) and if you want to go further, there is a bit space for a small copper heatsink.
 
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