the RC (radio control) and electric rideables thread


Starting to move forward with the flying wing ..
Just testing a motor prop combo
12A ESC
2200mAh 2s Battery ( just for current tests )
1806 2400kv
Gemfan 5x3
5.2Amp
16000 RPM

Gluing wing to fuse right now ...
 

Chucking my wing to play with the CG ...
Next tests will be under power ...
 
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I'm thinking maybe I should have bought two of the 540 motors and mounts and made this car truly insane... That's the original 370 motor just sitting in the battery tray on the right and the new 540 on the left.

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Rainbow 2 - 1000mm Wing is here !
 
New toy:

The VolantexRC V767-1 "Firstar" is a 758mm wingspan powered glider that is easy to control and relatively durable. This version is BNF 4CH so it has functional aileron, elevator and rudder but it doesn't include a battery, receiver or transmitter. It comes pre equipped with a 10A ESC that works with 2S LiPos and a 4000 KV brushless motor. In the first part you are not going to see a boring unboxing as this is also a full build and trim guide.



Maiden flight with crashed and light damage:
Kind note: my first flight with a fully manual plane (there is no self level, no gyro, no course lock) and also i have less than 10 flight in total with planes :D

 
Wow ! ( A bit windy for such a small model )
If the controls are neutral and the model noses into the ground launched with power it generally means its nose heavy ( CG is forward ) ...
My spirit 600mm is ready for its maiden ...
Weather is windy and wet , so I am working on my Rainbow2 1000mm Wing ...
Hopefully tomorrow put in the Rx , ESC and battery and then glue everything ..
 
My spirit 600mm is ready for its maiden

I like how you keep your options open here :D maiden....... something.

We was in the forest with the little RC trucks, but it was really boring for me, first of all the new body have killed the off road drivability of my trailfinder 2.
And second the little streams in the forest have been cleaned up and redone so there are almost no water in them as they drain so fast now.

I am now contemplating a range of cheap options to get going again with full off road ability, and also entertaining a costly option ( 2800 DKkr ) but that i cant decide on as the car are in preorder and wont be on the shelves before mid June.

Anyways did get 13 minutes worth of recording if you have a little time to kill, Sadly without the action packed gnarly off roading i had planned to record.

 
Wow , looks like a lot of fun ...
That bronco does look to want more power / traction
 
Yeah the tire pattern and size are more of a kind you will see on a street legal car, so the performance are not quite up there with a more dedicated offroad tire.

but down in 1:10 scale things scale down and work the same way, sure my shocks are the fully adjustable piggy back kind with a lot of adjustment options.
And that's also the first thing i will have to try, put in another piston inside the shocks and put in a thicker oil, this is one of my less costly options as i have the parts for the shocks and if my own oil are not to my liking i know my friend have a lot of it too.

Another thing i have been considering is altering the shock angle so they are more upright, as they now are angler in under the car and more or less mounted in the middle between the 2 frame rails.
I have a sneaky feeling though i only changed that angle ever so little with the new body, it have been enough for the 4 link system to easier compress the shocks, and so if i could get a more true upright angle on the shocks they should be harder for the undercarriage to compress.
Problem is i would then have to change to shorter shocks, and i might have to cut into the bottom / side of the bed ( this i can hide with scale items like coolers, beer kegs or Jerry cans hiding the shocks and the cuts i made.

I have also contemplated putting on the leaf springs again, the trailfinder 2 actually come with those, i just switched them out with 4 link in the rear and a 3 link with panhard bar in the front.
Problem then are the original shocks are just there for show, there are no shock absorbing properties to them what so ever.
I could then put shooter shackles on the springs if i wanted to.

Another option are to hit up my Willy's Jeep project, i more or less have all i need for it, in my old Axial honcho, so just a case of whipping things together.
This is basically putting a RC car under a GI Joe toy jeep.
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This make up for a larger off roader 1:8 or something, will have to add 25 mm spacers to space out the wheels on the axle.

Similar to the Willy's project i have a even larger one,, that's based on a 1:5 scale Hummer body ( army version )
I sort of also have all the parts for that build, but that will take a lot more tinkering as the Hummer as you know are a IHS car, and i have IHS axels and all ready to go, but still building everything up under that large Hummer body will take a long time.

This is a picture of the hummer body put on top of my 1:10 scale Axial Honcho that's in itself a long wheelbase scale truck, but here it is dwarfed by the hummer body.
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Also got wheels and tires for that project
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Damn ! Those look seriously trick ... ( The jeep is BOSS )
 
Just a update video on my Rainbow2 Flying wing ...
 
Having fun with the WLtoys A959 and a small 200mW 5.8GHz AIO FPV camera.

 
My friend just started with putting some of his FPV gear from the quadcopter on his cars, now he is talking about adding head tracking to his fat shark goggles and he already got a gimbal for the car.
 
My friend just started with putting some of his FPV gear from the quadcopter on his cars, now he is talking about adding head tracking to his fat shark goggles and he already got a gimbal for the car.
Yes, that is very nice :) And if the car is large enough you can fit all inside and have a real immersion feeling.
 
well the little 700 TVL camera could be fitted inside top of the windscreen, and the way my friend drive that might be a good idea.

He is now changing over to his Frsky Teranis X9D transmitter for one of the cars as he found 3 axis headtracking on hobbyking that work with that transmitter.

I cant use his goggles the eyes are too close together for my big head.
 
Yes, you need more channels than regular car transmitters have, you need to get used to stick driving :D
 
Thats no problem, when we started in RC all you could get was stick controllers.
And my friend have several of them ( Futaba ) all the way up to 24 channel or something, most of them i think are 35 MHZ, only 2.4 he have are the same 8 channel Airtronics RDS 8000 as i use for my truck and then the Frsky one he got when he took up flying again.
 
Having fun with the WLtoys A959 and a small 200mW 5.8GHz AIO FPV camera.

Even with the 25mw vtx on my car, I start to lose control of the car before I lose video. That said, the video does tend to break up a lot more at that distance.

My first couple of cars in the 80s we stick controls, and my son's cars are sticks too. It probably wouldn't take me long to get used to it.

I have a radiolink at9 (9ch) transmitter for my qav250 clone quad, and it can store settings for I think 4 or 6 different models, so I can easily switch back and forth and not need a bunch of transmitters.
 
Even with the 25mw vtx on my car, I start to lose control of the car before I lose video. That said, the video does tend to break up a lot more at that distance.

My first couple of cars in the 80s we stick controls, and my son's cars are sticks too. It probably wouldn't take me long to get used to it.

I have a radiolink at9 (9ch) transmitter for my qav250 clone quad, and it can store settings for I think 4 or 6 different models, so I can easily switch back and forth and not need a bunch of transmitters.

The problem was my mix of antennas, the AIO has cloverleaf and my DVR recorder had a normal dipole, it's a bad combination. On my google I had a dipole and there wasn't any brake-up or quality loss... I will soon upgrade the DVR / antennas etc. :)
 
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