the RC (radio control) and electric rideables thread


Started on my Micro Wing ( V911 Micro Wing )
V911 heli board , 7mm brushed motor , and a wing from a foam Feebay glider ..
Still needs work , but the build is well on its way .
 
so this should help my kids start another addiction... :D

https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-W...Formula-Car-wp-Usa-1089389.html?rmmds=myorder

i got 3 of them - at that price, why not? foam tires so they won't scuff the floor or baseboards, and depending on how much power they have, could make for fun drifting on the smooth wood or tile floors. proportional throttle at least, so the kids can start to get a feel for that.
 
old4570 said:

Started on my Micro Wing ( V911 Micro Wing )
V911 heli board , 7mm brushed motor , and a wing from a foam Feebay glider ..
Still needs work , but the build is well on its way .
Click to expand...
one day i might try building one of the DIY foam board "planes" designed by FliteTest - they have free plans online and youtube guides on how to build them. i need to finish some other projects first though.

like that wltoys A969 i'm trying to upgrade the motor on (not my son's broken car that i'm thinking of cramming a giant motor into). right now it "runs" but it's only RWD, and with these little tires and the big motor, it's just a donut machine. i still have another diff to modify, a driveshaft gear to shorten, and still waiting for my new batteries to arrive from china - they apparently got lost in shipment so they had to re-send them. i tried using one of the old batteries with the old ESC, but the power wires got uncomfortably hot in a very short time, and so did the FETs on the ESC, so i cut that experiment short. i already have the new ESC and some deans connectors, so i'm thinking of changing the JST connectors on 2 old batteries to deans, then using a deans Y-adapter to run 2 old batteries in paralell (2s2p) with the new motor and ESC. that should be safe enough, and maybe even provide longer run time than a single battery. i also need to modify the hex adapters for the wheels so i can use the new wheels i got, which should provide better traction. oh yeah and i need to finish modding the adjustable suspension rods i got - they're too long, and so they cause MASSIVE toe in (probably somewhere around 10-15 degrees), and positive camber as well. so i have to shorten them and then repair the threads, which is tedious since they're M3 (and reverse-thread M3). i don't have a thread file or tap/die that small so i'm having to use my needle file set, which is still technically too big, but it's close enough.
 
Fun fun fun ! ( Sounds like fun :)
 
The spark do look nifty, but i am a little let down its only 1080/30, it should have been able to do 60 FPS too i think.

Then again for slow selfie and photographic stuff maybe 30 FPS will cut it.
 
kamkar1 said:
The spark do look nifty, but i am a little let down its only 1080/30, it should have been able to do 60 FPS too i think.

Then again for slow selfie and photographic stuff maybe 30 FPS will cut it.
Click to expand...

if i were a newcomer considering an aerial camera platform, i would seriously check out the spark. it's closest competition (in price, size and intended usage) is the $400 yuneec breeze which has the capability to shoot in 4K but does not have a gimbal to stabilize the footage. the spark only records in 1080P but has a 2-axis gimbal stabilization. i think that alone is worth the $100 premium over the yuneec. and with the optional controller, the spark has a range of over 1 mile vs the yuneec's range limited by wifi.

having said all that, if i bought the spark i'd probably tire of the limitations and upgrade to the mavic pro anyway. and maybe the mavic pro will go down in price soon or a non-pro trim will be introduced. :)
 

V911 micro wing is completed !
Just need to wait for some decent weather and then I find out if the project was a fail or not ...
 
So I gave up on cramming that 390 motor into my son's broken car - just too much fabrication required, plus those little wheels and tires probably wouldn't handle it anyway. But then inspiration struck and I tried fitting the body from his dead car onto the wltoys a969 chassis. With a little trimming around the wheel arches and drilling holes for the body pins, fit couldn't be much better! Now the car looks as fast as it actually is, and it's a hard body shell instead of the flimsy shell it came with. If I keep it, I will probably add LEDs to the light bar. :D
IMG_20170614_091931~01.jpg
IMG_20170614_092119~01.jpg

Next up, I need to learn how to properly glue the tires to the wheels. I thought I just had to slather it up with super glue (CA) but either I didn't use enough or... ? One rear tire keeps spinning itself right off the rim.

Also what kind of glue do you suggest to attach the heat sink to the motor? Any time I hit a big jump or crash, it snaps off the motor, making it sound way worse than it is. I was thinking a drop of JB weld or epoxy but figured I'd ask here first.
 
sUperglue ( CA ) tends to crack under high load / heat / vibration ..
Especially on surfaces it can not penetrate .. ( Surface bond )
You want a soft rubbery glue ...
JB should work , Arctic alumina Epoxy .. ( Arctic silver )
 
gluing tires to wheels is the part of RC kit building that I just cannot master.
 
old4570 said:
sUperglue ( CA ) tends to crack under high load / heat / vibration ..
Especially on surfaces it can not penetrate .. ( Surface bond )
You want a soft rubbery glue ...
JB should work , Arctic alumina Epoxy .. ( Arctic silver )
Click to expand...
I have some thermal paste from my PC building days but it's not really an adhesive. I might try some liquid nails, since that's not a 2-part mix, and I only need a small amount.

Do you think plain old rubber cement would work for the tires? It's weird how the other 3 tires are fine so far. It's 4wd so you'd think they could all come loose but apparently not. I'll give it another shot with a lot more ca, and may even scuff the bead of both the tire and rim with like 60 grit sandpaper to give better adhesion first.
 
Looks like someone need to get that Q8 flashlight so he can have a little more light in his house ;)

I was at my friends house yesterday, he now got the new Traxxas TRX-4 ready for out next off-road adventure in the forest.
Traxxas-TRX-4-Land-Rover-Defender-3.jpg
 


Gibson99 said:
I have some thermal paste from my PC building days but it's not really an adhesive. I might try some liquid nails, since that's not a 2-part mix, and I only need a small amount.

Do you think plain old rubber cement would work for the tires? It's weird how the other 3 tires are fine so far. It's 4wd so you'd think they could all come loose but apparently not. I'll give it another shot with a lot more ca, and may even scuff the bead of both the tire and rim with like 60 grit sandpaper to give better adhesion first.
Click to expand...

There are many specially formulated cyanoacrylate RC tire glues available. Some are even rubberized. I think that's what you want.

https://www.hobbytown.com/tire-glue-tires-wheels-cars-trucks/c7433
https://www.hobbytown.com/tire-glue-tires-wheels-cars-trucks/c7433
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=RC+Tire+Glue

For heat sink compound in a situation where you will have lots of shocks and impacts I think I would go with the two part Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive. There's none better.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
 
I do think my friend always used CA glue on his tires, from 1:10 on road foam tires and rubber tires to the big tires for the 1:5 cars before he got sponsored and received pre-assembled wheel/tires.

But on our off road trucks we mostly upgrade to bead-lock wheels, but even there glue on exist but mostly on the wheels some RTR cars come with.

That arctic silver thermal glue is what i use to glue heat-sinks on ram modules on modified GFX cards in some of my computer mods.
I also use the regular arctic silver thermal paste for between CPU / GPU and heatsinks.

Been using "AS" for a long time.
 
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The black super sticky silicone sealant ... Is what I used almost 30 years ago when I did electric cars .. ( Was the stuff for car windshields )
 
Liquid nails will likely not work well on a heatsink as it tends to harden and crack in high heat. Arctic alumina epoxy is what the flashlight modders use for heat sinking- cheaper than the Arctic silver and works nearly as well ;) I think there's an aluminized version of JB Weld which might do OK too.

Not sure what adhesive would do for tires as most glues are optimized for either hard or soft surfaces but not both. One which I've used elsewhere that might do good is "Lexel", a clear flexible adhesive caulking which sticks like crazy to darn near everything. H-D or Lowes will have it in the US. It's a lot like hot-melt glue for flexibility but with much, much better adhesion. Kind of messy and stringy so don't glob it on so thick it squeezes out :p

Phil
 
Gibson99 said:
so this should help my kids start another addiction... :D

https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-W...Formula-Car-wp-Usa-1089389.html?rmmds=myorder

i got 3 of them - at that price, why not? foam tires so they won't scuff the floor or baseboards, and depending on how much power they have, could make for fun drifting on the smooth wood or tile floors. proportional throttle at least, so the kids can start to get a feel for that.
Click to expand...
So these turned out to be a dud (2 bad controllers) and I'm now starting a PayPal dispute with banggood because they don't want to refund or send replacements. They tried to tell me about some BS 3 day return period, which is completely unreasonable.
 
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