the RC (radio control) and electric rideables thread

Is the inverted flight thing any good for getting up off the floor when it's upside down?

Edit: must only be that cheap in oz - assuming that's eBay (because that's what it looks like to me) the cheapest I can find it on eBay.com is about $14
 
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Gibson99 said:
Is the inverted flight thing any good for getting up off the floor when it's upside down?

Edit: must only be that cheap in oz - assuming that's eBay (because that's what it looks like to me) the cheapest I can find it on eBay.com is about $14
Click to expand...

Yes , it will get off the floor inverted .. Its designed to fly both ways
 
I have never seen those before :cool:
 
Indeed even if i am more of a train guy if its things forced to just go one direction.

I am ordering railway empire when it get out, then i can create my own empire, and if that's too slow the game also have a free build option so i can just build a cool layout
 
Not as fast as the tether cars, that would need some form of locking into the slot, and i would thing better wheels or wheel mount system.
Dident the tether cars use sort of O-rings for tires.
The diesel part and 100 laps blew me away too.


And now i go defrost my car as i am on my way to the forest with the little truck, will be one of those not so fun days as its a couple of degrees below at the moment, and mt red car are more white looking at in on the CCTV
 
Engines.jpg


Tether cars ran specially made wheels ,
Scalextric = I only have one car - A F1 car with front wheel steering .
Got to have at least one Scalextric ! ( If I had the space - I would set up a 4 lane track )
Pictured = Some of my Model Airplane engines ( mostly 2.5cc )
There is a Fuji 35 in there as well a Cox TD09 ...
These engines were gathered over (?) 2 years perhaps , maybe 3 on the outside ...
 
My friend have a substantial collection of engines, even the cool OS boxer engines and a 5 cyl radial engine plane engine.
I think when his nephew ran the 1/8 class nitro car it was a novarossi engine in it, the kid ran circles around people doing that class for decades, but he also grew up on his uncles stuff.
The old ones was pretty :mad: not least when the kid later in life devised his own tire compound that was a lot better than the over the counter stuff the other guys used :D there was a big argument but the kid was allowed to run his own stuff.
 
The heavy Chevy hard body do take away a lot of a little RC offoraders climbing ability, or maybe one should say make it more natural in performance, cuz it still goo up stuff that would be firce if you scaled it up to 1/1

 
So many roll overs ? It does appear top heavy ...
 
It won't drive correctly because there's too many red lights in the taillight fixture. The bottom one should be white for reverse. :p

Can you turn off the sjcam logo?
 
And this light kit war actually sold for this specific body :rolleyes:

BUT its alright the rear light are just for guidance when driving at night, still need to add a light bar ( 5 inch ) on the roof, then you really dont want to turn the car around towards yourself cuz that really screw up what little night vision you have in a dark forest at night.

That was just 3 of the roll overs in the same place, it happen often you find a cool line / challenge but forget to record it the first time, then upon trying to drive the same line again with the camera rolling everything go wrong again and again.
Also the video cheat as the camera are not level, at the very top the car are battling a 45 degree incline its a bit lover on the build up to that.
Using a gimbal that would keep the camera level would be good, but i think make it harder to be camera man.

The body are super heavy as it is made of thick ABS plastic, and i haven't even put in the full interior with dashbord and seats, that would just compound the problem, but due to the layout of motor / transmission in this model there are no room for those, and i even had to cut up the bed to get room for my shock towers in the rear.
Total Weight of the body are 42.33oz / 1200g a lexan body of the same type weigh in around 300 grams.
http://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Chevrolet-Blazer-Hard-Body-Complete-Set_p_4811.html

I am not going to run this body permanent it simply kill the handling of the car too much, but it will make do until i can decide on and afford to buy a new body

Yes SJcam logo are on / off able.
 
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So rather than buying new shocks, I'm about to swap the shaft and spring from the craptastic stock plastic shocks (which have no seals and thus won't hold oil) with some metal shocks I originally bought for the wltoys a9x9, but were too long. And they're too short for the Remo truck without this mod.

I've never dealt with RC shock oil before. Plenty of info on filling/bleeding them, but surprisingly little info on what weight oil to use for certain purposes. I found a cheap bottle of losi 50wt on Amazon, but not sure if that's what I should use for just running around on rough ground and occasional small jumps (less than a foot). Would be nice if I could use the same oil in my "road" RC car (WLtoys a969 with lots of upgrades, including a bigger motor/ESC), where I want the shocks fairly stiff, but able to handle small bumps/cracks in pavement while driving near 75-80 km/h. Advice?
 

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well scratch that... the piston is attached to the shaft via E-clips on the metal shocks, so i can't swap the shafts. guess i have to buy shocks...

anyone need some 70mm aluminum shocks? brand new, never used... willing to trade for 80mm shocks in good condition. :)

my question about oil still stands though.
 
The default for the little offroaders seem to be 30 WT, and i am about to go to even thicker 20 WT.
I am using a piston in the shocks with 4 holes, i am contemplating changing to a 3 hole one when i have the shocks apart anyway.

The big bore traxxas shocks are mighty popular, but me being me i run Gmade RSD shocks
https://www.bigsquidrc.com/gmade-rsd-shocks/

My friend are also pretty happy with his Gmade aeration shocks.

None of the traxxas shocks are called big bore as i understand it, they mostly have a parts number and that's it, but traxxas have made a wide range of cars and shocks so its just a matter of finding some with a usable length.
 
@Gibson99
I can't speak of RC shock oil usage but 50w would be almost a solid in motorcycle forks. Gear oil goes higher and past 140W you can get #3 gear oil used in riding lawnmower gearboxes- it's like a thin honey in consistency. You can also blend pure petroleum oils and greases together and they stay mixed so you can create just about anything you want between the extremes.

On the thinner side it's hard to find motor oils with a warm weight under 30w but 20w was once made. Dexron ATF is around 15w and again pure petroleum blends (no ATF) can go lower using diesel or kerosene to thin with. Don't use gasoline as it will evaporate away from the mix. Synthetic motorcycle fork oils can be had in lower weights too.

Just a bit of the arcane knowledge I've picked up over time from racers and other folks needing specific weight lubricants to get optimum performance.
Phil
 
SawMaster said:
@Gibson99
I can't speak of RC shock oil usage but 50w would be almost a solid in motorcycle forks. Gear oil goes higher and past 140W you can get #3 gear oil used in riding lawnmower gearboxes- it's like a thin honey in consistency. You can also blend pure petroleum oils and greases together and they stay mixed so you can create just about anything you want between the extremes.

On the thinner side it's hard to find motor oils with a warm weight under 30w but 20w was once made. Dexron ATF is around 15w and again pure petroleum blends (no ATF) can go lower using diesel or kerosene to thin with. Don't use gasoline as it will evaporate away from the mix. Synthetic motorcycle fork oils can be had in lower weights too.

Just a bit of the arcane knowledge I've picked up over time from racers and other folks needing specific weight lubricants to get optimum performance.
Phil
Click to expand...
I thought about using plain nd30 engine oil, but then realized that the rubber seals probably aren't made for petroleum, only silicone.

As far as I can tell, the pistons on these 70mm shocks which I can't use have only one hole. Haven't checked the ones I got for the a9x9 yet but right now I don't feel the need to change anything on them.

And @kamkar1 -aren't shock oil ratings the same as automotive oil weights, in that a higher number is thicker?
 
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