The wishlist for motorcycle and ridding camera

Surely the whole point of cables with the camera on the end is that they can be extended easily?

I assume that a camera cable will require four cores (+/- power and two for the video, perhaps two more if you have audio), if you are going to make extension leads that can be plugged in to make it longer then please make sure the plugs are round instead of square. This way way you can use heat-shrink wrap rubber to seal it, square plugs can rarely be sealed fully.

On the subject of wiring, if it's going on a bike it probably needs to be a bit more robust than you would need in a car. Perhaps taking a leaf out of the CCTV market and using a Cat5 style cable for the wiring would work well, it won't be as flexible as the normal thin cables but it will survive more abuse. I use Cat5 to run power, video and sound to an external CCTV Dome camera and it works well.

Along these same lines I'm curious to know what method you use to water-seal Cat5 connectors on your CCTV set-up?
 
Along these same lines I'm curious to know what method you use to water-seal Cat5 connectors on your CCTV set-up?

My installs go through the outside wall so water isn't really a problem but the best solution I can think of is to cut up a bicycle inner tube that is long enough to go well past the joint and use heat-shrink at each end to seal it. That should hold pretty well, just need to work out what size inner tube you need.

Another, more permanent, solution that I have used for my amateur radio antenna is self-amalgamating tape which works very well. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-amalgamating_tape
 
My installs go through the outside wall so water isn't really a problem but the best solution I can think of is to cut up a bicycle inner tube that is long enough to go well past the joint and use heat-shrink at each end to seal it. That should hold pretty well, just need to work out what size inner tube you need.

Another, more permanent, solution that I have used for my amateur radio antenna is self-amalgamating tape which works very well. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-amalgamating_tape

Thanks. Yes, I'm very familiar with such tape as a long time short wave, scanner and radio esthusiast. I use it also on my analogue CCTV set-up. Most outdoor Cat5 installations I'm familiar with use conduit so that's why I asked as I am planning to migrate to IP cameras at some point. Plus your request for round plugs for heat shrink tape on the motorcycle cam got me wondering how you were dealing with the square RJ45 Cat5 & Cat6 connectors since you pointed out that "square plugs can rarely be sealed fully". I guess it's good ol' DIY to the rescue as usual. :)
 
In those cases where waterproofing is needed i allways resort to the thick plastidip as it shrink as it harden, or liquid elektrical tape witch is along the same lines but do nok shrink in size as it harden.
Plastidip do not fuse with some things, so along wires water can get in, so there i seal with glue after the plastidip have set.

Allso i have been known to give the things a dip in corrosion x before i seal it even more.

My Little RC car drive fine in a small stream, some trips its more of a wheeled submarine than a car :D
 
Haha, 3m is insane. I was thinking 30-50cm would give more mounting options. But hey, if you can do meters, by all means... You could have everything under the seat and run the lens to the front of the bike. 1.5m is ample enough.

All those setups I've seen so far have a VGA resolution or so though.

The testing samples have been ready, before production, I'd like to learn which remote lens people prefer.

0.5m,
1m,
1.5m,
3m is the longest.
 
The testing samples have been ready, before production, I'd like to learn which remote lens people prefer.

0.5m,
1m,
1.5m,
3m is the longest.

On a bike it might depend on whether the camera is positioned on the front or back of the motorcycle or what size and model of bike you own.
When the product is on the market, have you considered offering different versions of the camera with different lengths or the option to swap cables when needed?
 
The testing samples have been ready, before production, I'd like to learn which remote lens people prefer.

0.5m,
1m,
1.5m,
3m is the longest.

I would think that the 1.5m would be the minimum really. I ride an unfaired 600cc bike and when I fitted a HID bulb kit I needed about 1m of cable to run from the headlight to the battery (under the seat and the only place where things might stay dry).

Another thought related to this point, the camera lead may be exposed to heat as well as cold if it has to run from the front of a bike to under the seat as it will be close to the engine.
 
1.5m should be plenty for any bike, I guess the question about optional cable lengths is more about other applications where you might want to use a remote camera where excessive cable length is a hassle to deal with
 
A small, portable, waterproof camera with a remote lens on the end of a 3 meter cable and decent battery life could be very interesting for alternative uses. For example, someone like me who is interested in wildlife observation (sometimes professionally) it could possibly be a game changing product, especially if you could alter the optimum point of focus.
 
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OK, first release will be 1.5m, it is flexible to make the cable to be 3m later after many runs testing.

Yes, it is flexible for selection,
You can have two lens for one camera,
One narrow lens angle, one wide angle, or
One 1.5m long, other is 3m



 
Dashmellow observation of that kind of "birds" do not count ;)

I dont have a bike, but i might need a C3 anyway :)

PS. do it have 12 V in, so there is no need for a PSU to step Down to 5V ? ( 1 less thing that can go bad )
 
hehe the limys say birds, you Guys say chicks.

Dont think we Danes have any flying nicknames for girls, they are some times called SILD ( the herring fish ) or if se is yelled at a SO ( female adult pig )

If a person is not brave he is a chicken, and we use the same its just kylling in Danish
 
hehe the limys say birds, you Guys say chicks.

Dont think we Danes have any flying nicknames for girls, they are some times called SILD ( the herring fish ) or if se is yelled at a SO ( female adult pig )

If a person is not brave he is a chicken, and we use the same its just kylling in Danish
Unrelated but that herring fish about the girl reminds me of the blind man that one day decided to go for a walk. He passes by the fish market at some point and exclaims, "Hello, ladies!"
or maybe that's not what you meant by sild...

(it's a joke, in case the internet doesn't carry it across that way.)


And I can't wait to see that C3! Sounds very promising. Finally I may be able to hardwire the camera without all this hassle I'm going through...
 
And I can't wait to see that C3! Sounds very promising. Finally I may be able to hardwire the camera without all this hassle I'm going through...

Just be patient for a moment,
The product is ready, but we consider the mounts from the stock looks not professional and poor quality , so we just make the new design and open the molds.

The attached is to mount on bar, helmet very easy and convenient.
INNOVV C3 mounts-base.jpg
 
Just be patient for a moment,
The product is ready, but we consider the mounts from the stock looks not professional and poor quality , so we just make the new design and open the molds.

The attached is to mount on bar, helmet very easy and convenient.
View attachment 5828
Interesting! Looks like the bottom plate slides in a gopro style mount.
Will there be any permanent mounts (i.e. no quick release) being offered as well? I'm not sure what kind of market there'd be for a non-quick release mount. I don't think much but I'm just curious.
 
"The attached is to mount on bar, helmet very easy and convenient."

I can see that Mount on so many other Things, if the end product is like in my mind a lot other than MC drivers will be happy with it.

PS. my innovv C1 hit a new high yesterday, around 100 M strait up ( video uploading ATM )
 
From the mount design, people can see it has a small shape lens, the size is dia 22mm, bullet shape.
I would like to learn from people's idea and experience, where it can be mounted on the motorcycle?

PS. the lens case is made by aluminum, water proof.
 
As some one said some motorcycles have vibration dampned mirrors so on the front of a mirror would be nice.
But i am not sure if its the whole mirror or just the glass thats vibration free, anyways there it is a Little off center, but then again it is allso up high on the bike, yealding a better view.

Allso i think bikers would like to mount the camera either below or above the front light in the fairing, and on older or bikes with no or Little fairing i guess ppl would go for the front forks or the stakl out to the indicators.

Maybe mount it to the front light housing if its a larger model/type, again either above or under the light.

I guess ppl will want to mount the cameras as high as they can, to get the best view, just like in cars where high on windscreen is allso the universal recommendation.
 
I'm new to the forum but I have been mounting cameras to my motorcycles and helmets for a few years and the red arrows on the pics of two of my motorcycles are where I have mounted them the most of the time. Most of the mounts on the motorcycles have either a tab bolted to a bracket or a u-bolt type clamp either made by me or using some Ram mounts components. The helmet mounts have been all adhesive with VHB 3m tape or epoxied onto the helmet.
The biggest problem that I have had has been vibration dampening to get rid of the "jello effect" when accelerating the engine on most of my motorcycles. A lightweight mount always seems to amplify this problem when mounted to some parts of the motorcycle.
Offering a mount for C3 that can use the Ram mount components would be a good idea in my opinion as the mount system is very well made and is already used by many motorcyclists to mount other items on their bikes.
I can give you more specific information on the mounts that I have used if you'd like.

 
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