U3000 Pro voltage settings for hybrid help

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FattiesGoneWild

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2025 Toyota Crown Platinum hybrid here. I’m VERY confused on how to set the 12v battery voltage to 12.4v. In the dash cam app itself, when you select vehicle type hybrid. 12.4v is nowhere to be seen. If I select regular car under vehicle type, 12.4v appears. I will be using the obd 2 power cable with the switch set for electric/hybrid parking mode. I don’t know if that and the app would get confused if I set to 12.4v under regular car type in the app. Please assist, thank you.
 

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Additional question with my original post. My apologies for not being able to edit it. Since I’m setting it up for the first time. Maybe I don’t have to do any of that and knows it’s a hybrid? Or do I just go in the app, select hybrid and it defaults to settings or what? Thinkware is not clear or says anything about this stuff when setting up for the first time.
 
FattiesGoneWild said:
Additional question with my original post. My apologies for not being able to edit it. Since I’m setting it up for the first time. Maybe I don’t have to do any of that and knows it’s a hybrid? Or do I just go in the app, select hybrid and it defaults to settings or what? Thinkware is not clear or says anything about this stuff when setting up for the first time.
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Hi there,

We do not recommend selecting a regular type vehicle under the dash cam setting, as the dash cam needs an accurate reading of the battery based on the vehicle type.

Your 12V battery might not be an Ni-MH; if you have Ni-MH, it's the large high voltage battery under the seat
 
Thinkware Dash Cam said:
Hi there,

We do not recommend selecting a regular type vehicle under the dash cam setting, as the dash cam needs an accurate reading of the battery based on the vehicle type.

Your 12V battery might not be an Ni-MH; if you have Ni-MH, it's the large high voltage battery under the seat
Click to expand...
Is the camera and obd 2 cable smart enough to auto select hybrid without my input? Seeing on the obd 2 cable the switch will be set to E for electric/hybrid? The hybrid battery is under the rear seats that uses Ni-MH and 12v battery is in the trunk.
 
From my searches, the 2025 Toyota Crown is typical Toyota "Gas/Electric Hybrid" vehicle. It has a high-voltage battery pack used by the motor/generators for driving. That high-voltage system has a way to charge a [low voltage] 12-volt lead-acid or Absorbent Glass Mat [AGM] car battery. The accessories in the vehicle use the 12V system power from the low voltage battery.

Some hybrid and/or electric vehicles will power the vehicle accessories at somewhat higher voltage levels [13V to 14V] even when it's parked and the vehicle is "off". That type of vehicle may not even have a 12-volt battery in the vehicle. The vehicle has a power adapter to take the high-voltage battery pack power and reduce it to much lower voltage levels compatible with typical vehicle accessories [radios, dash cameras, etc]. I'm not aware of the 2025 Toyota Crown being one of those vehicles providing the higher vehicle accessory voltage levels. I've read a few posts from Crown owners that mentioned voltage levels in the 12.3V to 12.7V range.

I can't find a user manual for the Thinkware OBD-II power adapter on the Thinkware website, nor does the U3000 Pro user manual really explain the OBD-II power adapter's switch settings/features in depth. I looked at the "Installation Guide" card included with the Thinkware OBD-II power cable. It doesn't document anything more than to set the EV/F and D/P slide switches. There's also no mention of a low voltage cut-off feature in the OBD-II adapter itself.

It will come down to what voltage range your 2025 Toyota Crown's accessory [constant] power circuits are powered at. If you have a digital multimeter [DMM] to check the voltage level with the vehicle "off", you could check the voltage reading in an accessory power port [if it stays powered with the vehicle "off], at pin-16 of the OBD-II data link connector [lower right pin in the corner], at a fuse in the interior fuse box, or go straight to the low-voltage battery in the engine compartment and check there.
  • With the vehicle "off" -
    • Push the start/stop button to turn off the vehicle
    • Open the front driver side door at least once to make certain retained accessory power circuits to turn off
    • If the vehicle voltage reading is:
      • In the 12.0V-to-12.7V range, then it would behave like a "gas/internal combustion engine" vehicle according to the Thinkware products.
      • In the 12.8V-to-13.9V [or higher] range, then it would behave like an "electric/hybrid" vehicle according to the Thinkware products.
If you select "EV" for the "Vehicle Type" on the OBD-II power adapter and vehicle's accessory power circuits operate at voltages like a typical "F" [internal combustion engine] vehicle, the dash camera may enter parking mode while driving. You may also see the U3000 Pro turn off almost immediately after entering parking mode when parked because the voltage threshold for an EV/Hybrid in the dash camera settings is much higher than the voltage level the OBD-II power adapter can provide.

If it were me, I would test the voltage levels actually present in the vehicle. Using that data, hopefull make an informed choice on the OBD-II power adapter switch settings and within the dash camera settings.
 
rcg530 said:
From my searches, the 2025 Toyota Crown is typical Toyota "Gas/Electric Hybrid" vehicle. It has a high-voltage battery pack used by the motor/generators for driving. That high-voltage system has a way to charge a [low voltage] 12-volt lead-acid or Absorbent Glass Mat [AGM] car battery. The accessories in the vehicle use the 12V system power from the low voltage battery.

Some hybrid and/or electric vehicles will power the vehicle accessories at somewhat higher voltage levels [13V to 14V] even when it's parked and the vehicle is "off". That type of vehicle may not even have a 12-volt battery in the vehicle. The vehicle has a power adapter to take the high-voltage battery pack power and reduce it to much lower voltage levels compatible with typical vehicle accessories [radios, dash cameras, etc]. I'm not aware of the 2025 Toyota Crown being one of those vehicles providing the higher vehicle accessory voltage levels. I've read a few posts from Crown owners that mentioned voltage levels in the 12.3V to 12.7V range.

I can't find a user manual for the Thinkware OBD-II power adapter on the Thinkware website, nor does the U3000 Pro user manual really explain the OBD-II power adapter's switch settings/features in depth. I looked at the "Installation Guide" card included with the Thinkware OBD-II power cable. It doesn't document anything more than to set the EV/F and D/P slide switches. There's also no mention of a low voltage cut-off feature in the OBD-II adapter itself.

It will come down to what voltage range your 2025 Toyota Crown's accessory [constant] power circuits are powered at. If you have a digital multimeter [DMM] to check the voltage level with the vehicle "off", you could check the voltage reading in an accessory power port [if it stays powered with the vehicle "off], at pin-16 of the OBD-II data link connector [lower right pin in the corner], at a fuse in the interior fuse box, or go straight to the low-voltage battery in the engine compartment and check there.
  • With the vehicle "off" -
    • Push the start/stop button to turn off the vehicle
    • Open the front driver side door at least once to make certain retained accessory power circuits to turn off
    • If the vehicle voltage reading is:
      • In the 12.0V-to-12.7V range, then it would behave like a "gas/internal combustion engine" vehicle according to the Thinkware products.
      • In the 12.8V-to-13.9V [or higher] range, then it would behave like an "electric/hybrid" vehicle according to the Thinkware products.
If you select "EV" for the "Vehicle Type" on the OBD-II power adapter and vehicle's accessory power circuits operate at voltages like a typical "F" [internal combustion engine] vehicle, the dash camera may enter parking mode while driving. You may also see the U3000 Pro turn off almost immediately after entering parking mode when parked because the voltage threshold for an EV/Hybrid in the dash camera settings is much higher than the voltage level the OBD-II power adapter can provide.

If it were me, I would test the voltage levels actually present in the vehicle. Using that data, hopefull make an informed choice on the OBD-II power adapter switch settings and within the dash camera settings.
Click to expand...
Wow, thank you so much for the detailed post, greatly appreciated! I’m just an average consumer that’s techy in areas but this, digging in is much more for me to fully understand. Now, I’m all over the place with this setup on what to do. Do I use obd2, hardwire it or go all out with a battery pack. That way it’s completely isolated doing its own thing. I’m wanting to fully avoid warranty issues with this car. Toyota is notorious from what I hear giving issues if you have a dash cam hardwired when something goes wrong.
 
FattiesGoneWild said:
Wow, thank you so much for the detailed post, greatly appreciated! I’m just an average consumer that’s techy in areas but this, digging in is much more for me to fully understand. Now, I’m all over the place with this setup on what to do. Do I use obd2, hardwire it or go all out with a battery pack. That way it’s completely isolated doing its own thing. I’m wanting to fully avoid warranty issues with this car. Toyota is notorious from what I hear giving issues if you have a dash cam hardwired when something goes wrong.
Click to expand...
No matter if you power it with the OBD-II power cable or use a hardwire kit, you'll still need to figure out the voltage range the low-power circuits operate at since you have to make the "correct" selection in the dash camera settings as well.
 
rcg530 said:
No matter if you power it with the OBD-II power cable or use a hardwire kit, you'll still need to figure out the voltage range the low-power circuits operate at since you have to make the "correct" selection in the dash camera settings as well.
Click to expand...
If I go with the battery pack setup, none is that needed correct?
 
FattiesGoneWild said:
If I go with the battery pack setup, none is that needed correct?
Click to expand...
If you end using a dash camera battery pack to power the U3000 Pro, the settings for the U3000 Pro get easier since you set the "Use External Battery" to "Enabled" and the U3000 Pro "Battery Protection" settings are then disabled/not used. With a dash camera battery pack, you'll need to decide if it will be powered by a 3-wire charging cable connection or a 2-wire power port connection [lower amps/slower charging] and that can vary based on which battery pack you select.
 
I am legitimately going crazy with this completely undecided. Because my install date is approaching, not sure on the included obd 2 cable route or battery pack. I needed to order the battery pack items to make the install time IF going that route. I really prefer the least invasive route install wise with the battery pack if it goes that way. I ordered the following,

iVolt mini battery pack
Hardwire cable (required)
12v power outlet charging cable

Made sure my 12v is not always on and it does shut down every time. Thoughts, opinions etc welcome to anything. Thanks.
 
Even though OBD-II power adapters for dash cameras offer the promise of a "simple" installation and use with the dash camera, there can be some level of confusion by the OBD-II power adapter when it comes to having the dash camera enter into and exit from parking mode. OBD-II power adapters make educated guesses on when to turn on/off the accessory power to the dash camera. They monitor vehicle voltage levels, vehicle movement [g-sensor], and some monitor some of the other pins in the OBD-II data link connector port. Sometimes they work perfectly with the vehicle their installed into and at times they can be making invalid guesses on managing the accessory to the dash camera. I tend to avoid them in my personal vehicles.

You stated you are considering using an iVolt Mini BAB-50 battery pack. You also stated the vehicle's 12V power outlets turns off when the vehicle is turned off. You ordered the optional 12V iVolt Mini External Battery Input Cable (12V Charging Cable) and the dash camera hardwiring cable [if I read your post correctly].

If you follow this Thinkware example picture of how to install the iVolt Mini battery pack using the 12V charging cable, this should work well in your vehicle. You or the installer will have to splice together the iVolt Mini's "3-wire output cable" with the "3-wire dash cam hardwiring cable".

1783575615202.webp

 
rcg530 said:
Even though OBD-II power adapters for dash cameras offer the promise of a "simple" installation and use with the dash camera, there can be some level of confusion by the OBD-II power adapter when it comes to having the dash camera enter into and exit from parking mode. OBD-II power adapters make educated guesses on when to turn on/off the accessory power to the dash camera. They monitor vehicle voltage levels, vehicle movement [g-sensor], and some monitor some of the other pins in the OBD-II data link connector port. Sometimes they work perfectly with the vehicle their installed into and at times they can be making invalid guesses on managing the accessory to the dash camera. I tend to avoid them in my personal vehicles.

You stated you are considering using an iVolt Mini BAB-50 battery pack. You also stated the vehicle's 12V power outlets turns off when the vehicle is turned off. You ordered the optional 12V iVolt Mini External Battery Input Cable (12V Charging Cable) and the dash camera hardwiring cable [if I read your post correctly].

If you follow this Thinkware example picture of how to install the iVolt Mini battery pack using the 12V charging cable, this should work well in your vehicle. You or the installer will have to splice together the iVolt Mini's "3-wire output cable" with the "3-wire dash cam hardwiring cable".

View attachment 92212​

Click to expand...
Genuinely cannot thank you enough for taking the time and posting such details. I have decided to commit with the battery pack install. I just feel much better for warranty purposes, Toyota cannot hassle me with. No hardwiring, and nothing will be taken away from the small 12v car battery. Win/win. Part of the hurdle was also the cost, but it’s an investment at the same time. My two 1080p Garmin cameras have served me well without parking mode. But since moving, I’m parked outside now.
 
Quick question, can you recommend a good quality low profile mini tap plug on Amazon? The iVolt mini battery pack does not include them for some reason. Apparently my Toyota Crown uses that style. I’m looking on Amazon, but a quick look has people complaining about quality/fitment. 🤷
 
In the configuration I pointed out last night for the iVolt Mini, it wasn't obtaining its charging power from a fuse tap. The iVolt Mini plugs into one of the 12V power ports that you stated turned off when the vehicle is off.
 
rcg530 said:
In the configuration I pointed out last night for the iVolt Mini, it wasn't obtaining its charging power from a fuse tap. The iVolt Mini plugs into one of the 12V power ports that you stated turned off when the vehicle is off.
Click to expand...
Ah yes, I seen that. 👍 This fuse tap request is a just in case scenario if I decide that route. Highly unlikely, but still. Much quicker battery charge apparently being the benefit. 🤷 Thanks.
 
Many recent model years of Toyota/Lexus vehicles use a fuse box that is located "upside down" and with a cover that mounts very close the fuses not leaving any room for a fuse tap.

If you install a fuse tap in that configuration, there's a chance you can hit the fuse tap with your left foot [by accident] and there's also a chance that the fuse tap may come out of the fuse box fuse socket [over time].

@SafeDriveSolutions created a video a while back addressing this Toyota/Lexus fuse tap / fuse box issue.

 
rcg530 said:
Many recent model years of Toyota/Lexus vehicles use a fuse box that is located "upside down" and with a cover that mounts very close the fuses not leaving any room for a fuse tap.

If you install a fuse tap in that configuration, there's a chance you can hit the fuse tap with your left foot [by accident] and there's also a chance that the fuse tap may come out of the fuse box fuse socket [over time].

@SafeDriveSolutions created a video a while back addressing this Toyota/Lexus fuse tap / fuse box issue.

Click to expand...
Wow, that really is close! Well, that’s definitely out then and sticking to the original plan. Thanks!
 
I have some more input to talk about in my scenario and continue to value your opinions. My car is not driven on the daily, when it is. It’s local driving with short trips ranging 10-30 minutes or possibly more. I do highway driving as well, just not often. Car can sit between 1-3 days at a time. So, this all goes back to parking mode. If I can’t charge that battery pack often enough doing the appropriate longer trips to charge it properly, what am I doing here then? Especially when it’s charging through 12v power in my car and won’t be hardwired.

It’s going to charge much slower. Using obd 2 could in theory if I understand correctly could actually give me longer parking time in this scenario, yes? At the cost of using the obd 2 port which as you said is not ideal. I recently moved, before had my own car port. However, I live in a duplex now and it’s howdy neighbor being that close to each other now. The ivolt extra battery pack requires hardwiring period, that’s completely out of the question for me. So, what would you do personally in my situation? Am I just throwing useless money in the end with this? You never need parking mode until you do is my thinking.

My main concern is of course having front and rear dash cameras. Along with parking mode when I’m out and about going to places.
 
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