UNBOXING Future member of this great DashCam

PeterGreefent

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Good morning colleagues.


I join the group of users of this great dashcam.


I currently have the initial model of the series, the A329.


I have been eagerly awaiting the new Viofo products, but since they do not support external SSD storage, which is essential for me, I have given up on their releases.


With which I have continued with my initial objective of renewing my current A329 for the A329S model.


Perhaps some may think that it is not worth the outlay already having the A329 model, but for me, who likes to have the best within my budget, having a third camera like the IR to be able to monitor, albeit to a limited extent, the lateral exterior of the vehicle, along with the % charge stamp of the BP100 battery and the hybrid parking mode, makes up for it.

Also the advantage of being able to change the firmware for the T or TC model and thus be able to choose other camera configurations.


I had planned to buy the camera directly from the manufacturer Viofo.com for a cost of €400 with 2 channels, that is, the main unit and IR camera.

But in the end I bought it at Viofo Benelux, whose initial price for the 3-channel one is €449, but I kept a 10% coupon and it ended up at €404 with 3 channels, that is, the IR and the rear.


I really could have bought the TC model and thus gotten a Telephoto camera and changing the firmware to that of the S model, using my rear camera from my current A329 model and keeping the telephoto camera in case I wanted to use it in the future by changing the firmware.

But my intention is to resell the A329 model that I have and thus be able to recover at least half the price of the A329S model.


The dashcam estimates that it will arrive by Monday, Tuesday of next week.

So I'll give you news when I receive it.


Greetings .

Edit :

Well, I’ve received the A329S 3-channel dash cam.
My first impression of the packaging is that it was mediocre, bordering on poor; I believe a serious company like Viofo Benelux ought to use packaging that is more carefully put together and protective. It felt as though they had grabbed a box from a forgotten corner and just reused it—there was absolutely no internal padding (foam, cardboard, or paper) to stop the dash cam box from banging around inside the shipping carton. The shipping box itself had significant holes where the contents were visible, and one side was completely dented and patched up with clear tape.
Fortunately, the camera's original box was in surprisingly pristine condition.

Right, now for the important part: the unboxing.

Even though this is just a small appetizer compared to what you’re used to seeing here, I’m excited to contribute something to the forum—even if it is something that’s been done before and isn't exactly new.
 

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Bienvenidos a la forum PeterGreefent
 
external SSD storage, which is essential for me
Welcome to the club.
Can you post links / photos of the SSD Data Cable, and SSD you've picked out?
-Chuck
 
Welcome to the club.
Can you post links / photos of the SSD Data Cable, and SSD you've picked out?
-Chuck
Hello good .

Yes of course .

The SSD I use is the one already well known in the forum, the 1TB Samsung T7 SHIELD model.
I bought 2 units just 1 year ago at the price of €95 per unit on Amazon.
Currently they are at the crazy price of €250, the increase that these types of devices have suffered is incredible.

The cable I use is the official Viofo cable for 1.8m SSD


Curious anecdote, before this cable I used one of apparently good quality, it never gave me problems with reading errors, etc....
I do not usually review the recordings unless it is due to some extraordinary event, because I received a traffic fine for speeding captured by a camouflaged mobile radar, as the fine gave me GPS coordinates and speed, I wanted to review the recordings to verify that everything was true and my surprise was that the recording did not include the coordinates or the speed, not only in that recording, but in any...
By doing tests, I was able to deduce that the culprit was the SSD transmission cable itself, for whatever circumstance, I don't understand why, it prevented the GPS module from linking the satellite signal and that is why it didn't give me coordinates or speed in the recordings.

At that time I bought the official 1.8m Viofo cable and the problem was solved.
 
1TB Samsung T7 SHIELD
Samsung 1TB T7 Shield is not recommended by VIOFO.
If you experience recording malfunction with A329S, this will be the first issue to be corrected.

VIOFO Recommended SSD as of September 16, 2026;
1.) Samsung 4TB T9 Shield
2.) SanDisk 4TB Extreme
3.) SanDisk 2TB Extreme
4.) SanDisk 1TB Extreme
5.) Western Digital 1TB My Passport

VIOFO Reccomeneded SSD .webp


I don't understand why, it prevented the GPS module from linking the satellite signal and that is why it didn't give me coordinates or speed in the recordings.

VIOFO Brand SSD Data Cable .webp
 
Samsung 1TB T7 Shield is not recommended by VIOFO.
If you experience recording malfunction with A329S, this will be the first issue to be corrected.

VIOFO Recommended SSD as of September 16, 2026;
1.) Samsung 4TB T9 Shield
2.) SanDisk 4TB Extreme
3.) SanDisk 2TB Extreme
4.) SanDisk 1TB Extreme
5.) Western Digital 1TB My Passport

View attachment 94005



View attachment 94006
If by "malfunction" you mean random SSD disconnections and reconnections, I experienced this exact issue with my current A329 model.
Those specific SSD problems started when I switched to the official Viofo cable; they never happened with the non-official cable because its connector extended a few millimeters further out of its housing, and the protective rim around the cable's Type-C connector was less bulky.

From my research, the issue stemmed from a combination of two factors: the port on the T7 Shield SSD is deeply recessed due to the edge of its protective casing.
Part of the problem also lies with the Viofo cable connector itself, which protrudes very little from its housing. Consequently, while it connects, the plug doesn't insert fully into the SSD's port; the slightest movement can cause it to shift and trigger random disconnections. I solved this by wrapping and securing the Viofo cable connector together with the SSD to prevent it from coming loose or moving, and I haven't had any issues for about six months since.

If the same problem affects the A329S and other models, I believe the right move for Viofo would be to modify their official cable—either by extending the connector a few millimeters beyond the housing or by trimming the housing around the Type-C connector so it fits into the recess of the SSD's protective rim. This would allow for a full connection without intermittent contact issues, and the cost to them would be minimal. Buying a different SSD at current prices isn't an ideal solution, especially for customers who already own the T7 Shield model.
 
T7 Shield is not recommended by VIOFO.
If you experience any malfunction, this will be the first issue to be corrected.
I understand what you mean.
But why did this SSD give me trouble with my current A329 right after I switched to the Viofo-branded data transfer cable?
It’s clear that the design of the cable's Type-C connector housing is partly to blame.
The connector doesn't protrude very far, and combined with the 90-degree angle, it prevents the plug from fully seating into the SSD's port; this results in a weak connection where any movement of the cable or SSD causes intermittent contact issues.

I solved this on my current A329 by wrapping a couple of turns of electrical tape around the cable connector and the SSD, holding them together to prevent any movement at the connection point.

Now, it’s a different matter whether the software on the upcoming A329S might conflict with the T7 Shield SSDs—I don't know about that—but given that many users don't experience issues with this SSD on the current A329S models, I suspect the reported failures stem from the same problem I described.

In principle, the solution is simple: secure the cable connector to the SSD using a rubber band or electrical tape to stop it from moving. Viofo could have easily solved this too: they should have used a 90-degree connector at the end connecting to the main unit (as they currently do) but a straight, non-angled connector at the SSD end, with a slimmer, more rounded housing to make it easier to plug into the SSD's Type-C port in tight spaces.
 

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I'm just giving you facts so you can make informed decisions.
Right, I understand you perfectly.


And, as always, I appreciate this kind of information.


I’m simply trying to have a conversation focused on what causes this issue with these specific SSDs and what the possible alternative solutions are, rather than spending hundreds of euros on another SSD with similar specs.


Another potentially feasible solution to this problem is to use a USB-C female-to-male adapter—one that fits properly into the SSD's port—and attach it to the end of the official Viofo cable... though, of course, the extension would need to meet the necessary specifications so as not to negatively impact data transfer speeds.
 
I’m simply trying to have a conversation focused on what causes this issue with these specific SSDs and what the possible alternative solutions are, rather than spending hundreds of euros on another SSD with similar specs.
If you buy a VIOFO camera you must follow their recommendations, or risk malfunction.
If it were my money I would do what @GPak did.
GPAK SSD THREAD
 
If you buy a VIOFO camera you must follow their recommendations, or risk malfunction.
If it were my money I would do what @GPak did.
GPAK SSD THREAD
I understand your logic and reasoning.

However, based on my experience using the A329—where the T7 SHIELD SSD gave me no issues—I plan to use that same SSD when the A329S arrives. I’ll test it out and report back here; if it works correctly, I’ll let you know, and if it malfunctions or causes problems, I’ll share that too—and then take the steps you recommended.

But please understand that SSDs are currently very expensive, so I want to test what I already own first, especially since it’s working perfectly for me so far.

By the way, to shift gears a bit away from the troubleshooting topic...

Since you guys are experts when it comes to measurements, power consumption, and the like...

It’s generally assumed that an SD card consumes less power than an SSD, but how much of a difference does that actually make for battery life?

For instance, let’s compare a 512GB SD card against a 1TB SSD (like my T7 SHIELD) running at maximum bitrate, 4K, etc. I’m not looking for exact figures—I know everything is relative and precise numbers are impossible—but assuming maximum power draw for both storage devices, how much would an SSD shorten the runtime compared to a microSD card?

With my BP100+EP100 battery setup—freshly installed without a prior charge—the app predicted about 22–24 hours of runtime at maximum bitrate, with motion-detection parking mode, 4K/60fps (I believe) for the front camera, and 2K/30fps for the rear.

Presumably, the runtime will drop a bit more with the A329S, given the addition of a second remote camera.
 
Since you guys are experts when it comes to measurements, power consumption
First, and foremost I ain't no expert 🤣
Anyone here will tell you I can barley find my own butt with both hands ✋🍑🤚
let’s compare a 512GB SD card against a 1TB SSD
There are too many variables involved to provide any meaningful measurements that will apply to all customer configurations.
You can perform this comparison measurement on your own configuration with a $22 Multimeter.
I recommend this one Thsinde B18+
Accurate within 1mA of my Flukes.
 

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I understand your logic and reasoning.
However, based on my experience using the A329—where the T7 SHIELD SSD gave me no issues—I plan to use that same SSD when the A329S arrives. I’ll test it out and report back here; if it works correctly, I’ll let you know, and if it malfunctions or causes problems, I’ll share that too—and then take the steps you recommended.
But please understand that SSDs are currently very expensive, so I want to test what I already own first, especially since it’s working perfectly for me so far.
By the way, to shift gears a bit away from the troubleshooting topic...
Since you guys are experts when it comes to measurements, power consumption, and the like...
It’s generally assumed that an SD card consumes less power than an SSD, but how much of a difference does that actually make for battery life?
For instance, let’s compare a 512GB SD card against a 1TB SSD (like my T7 SHIELD) running at maximum bitrate, 4K, etc. I’m not looking for exact figures—I know everything is relative and precise numbers are impossible—but assuming maximum power draw for both storage devices, how much would an SSD shorten the runtime compared to a microSD card?
With my BP100+EP100 battery setup—freshly installed without a prior charge—the app predicted about 22–24 hours of runtime at maximum bitrate, with motion-detection parking mode, 4K/60fps (I believe) for the front camera, and 2K/30fps for the rear.
Presumably, the runtime will drop a bit more with the A329S, given the addition of a second remote camera.
Here is a link to a post by @rcg530 showing the power consumption of the A329S prototype in various parking recording modes—using both an SSD and a microSD card:
As you can see, the difference in the camera's power consumption when using an SSD versus a microSD card is quite significant.
Note: for these measurements, the microSD card was inserted directly into the camera, so only the SSD setup accounts for power losses in the cable.

 

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Here is a link to a post by @rcg530 showing the power consumption of the A329S prototype in various parking recording modes—using both an SSD and a microSD card:
As you can see, the difference in the camera's power consumption when using an SSD versus a microSD card is quite significant.
Note: for these measurements, the microSD card was inserted directly into the camera, so only the SSD setup accounts for power losses in the cable.

Thanks a lot for sharing your test results.

It is quite a significant difference, to be honest; with the BP100 battery, there is a reduction in runtime of just over 5 hours—and that is at a low bitrate.
Since I usually set it to the maximum bitrate, the runtime will likely be even shorter.

I assume Hybrid parking mode would extend the total runtime a bit, though I’m not sure how it might affect the ability to capture and identify license plates and people, depending on lighting conditions and other factors.

I also don't know if users tend to avoid Hybrid parking mode—despite it being a novel feature—for some reason, or if it is actually useful.
 
First, and foremost I ain't no expert 🤣
Anyone here will tell you I can barley find my own butt with both hands ✋🍑🤚

There are too many variables involved to provide any meaningful measurements that will apply to all customer configurations.
You can perform this comparison measurement on your own configuration with a $22 Multimeter.
I recommend this one Thsinde B18+
Accurate within 1mA of my Flukes.
Hi there.

I’m an enthusiast when it comes to electronics and gear—you could say I like to have a bit of everything. I own plenty of testing equipment, including a laboratory power supply like the one you guys use.

The issue is that my dashcam units—and the Viofo batteries—are meant exclusively for in-vehicle use. I can't afford to own multiple units of the same product just to run bench tests at home while constantly swapping cameras and batteries in and out of the car. Part of the reason is—as I mentioned in a previous forum post—that I installed the BP100+EP100 battery in a spot where removing it requires taking out the entire glove box. Obviously, if I need to use the vehicle, I don't want the stress of urgently pulling out components, rushing through tests, and hurriedly putting everything back together just to get back on the road.

I really wish I had spare units to keep at home for experimenting.
I certainly wouldn't call myself an expert, but I do have a wide range of testing tools at my disposal; I’ve always been drawn to mechanics and electronics, albeit strictly as a hobbyist.
 
Good morning, everyone.

I’m updating the original post with photos of the unboxing of the camera I received. It’s a very basic affair—nothing like the work you’ve done previously—just a simple unboxing and showcase of the contents.
In the coming days, I’ll be swapping out the A329 and its rear camera for the A329S (including its rear and IR cameras). It should be quick and easy since the installation is already largely in place; the only addition will be the IR camera. I still need to decide whether to mount it on the front or rear windshield. I’ll likely go with the front, as the rear window is separated from the main cabin; mounting it there would mean running another cable through a hard-to-reach grommet with very little clearance. Another issue is that the rear window has a special fabric covering that mimics dark tint, so I wouldn't be able to mount the IR camera against the glass facing the interior.
 
Multiple not units required.
Removal from car not required.
After you get A329S 3CH installed, I’ll show you two different methods to measure power consumption between SD Card & SSD that will take 5 minutes.
Out of curiosity,
I measured the power consumption of my retail Viofo A329S (3ch) dashcam in low-bitrate parking mode.
(running the latest public firmware; using HK4 hardwire kit; for the parking, the HDR, GPS, and IR illumination/auto were set to OFF; and the LED indicator was set to power only.)

Testing was conducted using the following configurations:

Config 1 — Viofo microSD card (256GB) installed directly in the dash cam.
Config 2 — Viofo microSD card (256GB) installed in a Ugreen card-reader, connected to the dashcam via a 1.8m Viofo SSD cable.
Config 3 — SanDisk Extreme SSD (1TB) connected to the dashcam via a 1.8m Viofo SSD cable.

As expected, the microSD card installed directly in the device consumed the least power; next came the "card reader + microSD" setup, while the SSD consumed the most power:

Config 1 — average power consumption: 4.80 W
Config 2 — average power consumption: 5.28 W
Config 3 — average power consumption: 5.78 W
 

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Hello everyone.

I’ve got the A329S installed now.

I mounted the IR camera right above the main unit, in the small gap between the unit itself and the vehicle's roof lining. It was the best spot I could find—centered relative to the windshield and facing rearward. Although it’s angled quite sharply downwards, the wide-angle view is incredible; you can see the side mirrors on both sides. Even with that downward tilt—necessary to keep the roof from taking up a third of the frame—it still manages to capture vehicles approaching from the rear window. It’s amazing.

I ruled out mounting the IR camera on the rear window for a few reasons. Aside from the tedious installation process—since I have a 3-door vehicle, I’d have to run another cable from the cabin through the grommet to the tailgate—placing it at the back would mean losing a lot of the exterior view because the front seats would get in the way. Plus, you lose detail the further away the subject is, and what I really care about is capturing maximum detail regarding what happens alongside the two front doors.

With my previous A329, I always tried to position the main unit as close as possible to the side of the rearview mirror mount and keep it as straight as possible. The problem with trying to keep it perfectly straight is that you inevitably lose a significant amount of the field of view on one of the front sides of the vehicle, simply because it’s impossible to mount it dead-center on the windshield. If you align it perfectly straight, you lose visibility on one side while gaining it on the other, which actually makes the main unit look even more off-center. I’ve patched this issue by not keeping the main unit perfectly straight; I angled it just enough to capture both sides of the vehicle. Seeing the camera tilted triggers my OCD a bit, though it doesn't affect the actual footage—I’ve watched the videos and haven't noticed any image skew. Sure, if you had clear, precise reference points right in front of the camera, you might notice the tilt, but in normal viewing, nothing looks off.

I wonder—would you prefer to sacrifice some of the viewing angle on one side of the vehicle just to keep the camera straight and the horizon level?

In my next post, I’ll upload photos of the final installation, along with screenshots from the interior recordings so you can judge the IR camera's performance. I’ll also include a shot from the main unit’s recording to show how centered the image is and how little the tilt is actually noticeable, despite the camera being angled.
 
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