Unit does not turn on when I start vehicle

Leaky Waders

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I installed my 1st dash cam in a 2020 Honda Ridgeline. I have hardwired it to the fuse boxes. I selected one fuse slot from each fuse box. When I turn on the vehicle the unit does not power up. If I manually press and hold the power button the unit boots and starts recording. I have to manually turn the unit off when I turn off the truck or it continues to record. The same is true if the truck is off, if I press and hold the power button the unit boots and records. I also noticed when I connected the ground wire to a bolt I saw one small spark. I must be doing something wrong but after watching a dozen videos I am not quite sure what. I used a multi-meter to confirm that the fuses I selected were either always on or on with ignition power. TIA for your help.
 
Check from the menu settings if you have selected 3-wire connection.
 
It would seem the Red and Yellow wires are not connected to optimal locations. Red should be to connected to switched accessory power source, yellow to permanent battery power source.

When testing for constant unswitched BAT source you need to close the doors and lock the vehicle as well. Also some CANBus computer controlled ones can’t be used as well.

Which number fuse slots are you I using for ACC (red) and BAT (Yellow)?

Did you set the “power input” setting to 3-wire?
 
It would seem the Red and Yellow wires are not connected to optimal locations. Red should be to connected to switched accessory power source, yellow to permanent battery power source.

When testing for constant unswitched BAT source you need to close the doors and lock the vehicle as well. Also some CANBus computer controlled ones can’t be used as well.

Which number fuse slots are you I using for ACC (red) and BAT (Yellow)?

Did you set the “power input” setting to 3-wire?
I connected Red to switched and yellow to permanent battery power source.

I was not aware of the need to close doors and lock vehicle when testing the unswitched Bat source. Do you mean that I have to close myself inside and lock the doors before testing the fuse and holder?

In the menu I selected 3-wire.
 
Which fuses did you tap into? What number fuse slots did you use from the user manual in your specific vehicle? I’ll ask around to see if we can get recommendations.

We recommend professional installation at your local car Audio shop for anyone unable to DIY.
 
It would seem the Red and Yellow wires are not connected to optimal locations. Red should be to connected to switched accessory power source, yellow to permanent battery power source.

When testing for constant unswitched BAT source you need to close the doors and lock the vehicle as well. Also some CANBus computer controlled ones can’t be used as well.

Which number fuse slots are you I using for ACC (red) and BAT (Yellow)?

Did you set the “power input” setting to 3-wire?
I will have to check the fuse slot numbers tomorrow. I think I used #5 for ACC and F for BAT.
Which fuses did you tap into? What number fuse slots did you use from the user manual in your specific vehicle? I’ll ask around to see if we can get recommendations.

We recommend professional installation at your local car Audio shop for anyone unable to DIY.

These are the fuses I was advised to use:

Honda Ridgeline:

There are 2 fuse locations under the dash board:

Fuse location A:

+12V - Fuse 18

ACC - Fuse 5

Fuse location B (which is near location A on the right):

+12V - Fuse F

ACC - Fuse G

I will double check my owner's manual tomorrow.
 
where did you ground it?
There is a metal bracket bolted to the floorboard that the parking brake is attached to. There is a hole in this bracket. I slipped a bolt through the hole and attached a lock washer and a nut to and connected the ground wire to the bolt.
 
There is a metal bracket bolted to the floorboard that the parking brake is attached to. There is a hole in this bracket. I slipped a bolt through the hole and attached a lock washer and a nut to and connected the ground wire to the bolt.
it should be grounded to the same point where the factory ground point is, will be nearby the fuse panel
 
you be supriced how many hard wire woes have been caused by using a wrong ground point, probably way more than actually faulty hard wire kits.
 
We have a tech confirming your vehicle. They asked the following:

“Can you confirm this 2020 Honda Ridgeline is just a facelift with some new features added? Still the 2nd generation?“
 
We have a tech confirming your vehicle. They asked the following:

“Can you confirm this 2020 Honda Ridgeline is just a facelift with some new features added? Still the 2nd generation?“
Yes, I can confirm that the 2020 Ridgeline is just a facelift with some new features and it is still the 2nd generation.
 
Response:

“ from what I can find out, the 2020 Honda Ridgeline is just a facelift of the 2nd generation Honda Ridgeline which means the interior and fuse location is still the same.

So for:

+12V - use Fuse 42. It is unused but it is a constant +12V

+Acc - use Fuse 40.

I hope that helps.”
 
Response:

“ from what I can find out, the 2020 Honda Ridgeline is just a facelift of the 2nd generation Honda Ridgeline which means the interior and fuse location is still the same.

So for:

+12V - use Fuse 42. It is unused but it is a constant +12V

+Acc - use Fuse 40.

I hope that helps.”
relocating the ground still needs to be done also
 
Response:

“ from what I can find out, the 2020 Honda Ridgeline is just a facelift of the 2nd generation Honda Ridgeline which means the interior and fuse location is still the same.

So for:

+12V - use Fuse 42. It is unused but it is a constant +12V

+Acc - use Fuse 40.

I hope that helps.”
Thanks for the extra effort you put in for me. Unfortunately the fuse end of the fuse tap was too large to allow me to insert it into the fuse holder. I purchased a circuit tester and found fuse #5 to be constant +12V and # 13 to be +Acc. I used my multi-meter to determine the polarity of the fuse holder so that the fuse end of the fuse tap was inserted properly. At the end of the day I still have the same problem. When I start my truck the unit emits two beep tones but does not turn on. When I scroll in the menu to "parking monitor" I receive the error message "Requires SGDCHW power lead". I plan on taking the vehicle to a professional installer tomorrow.
 
relocating the ground still needs to be done also
I attached the circuit tester clip to the bolt that the ground wire is attached to and the circuit tester worked fine. Does that not confirm that my ground is acceptable?
 
ground maybe ok initially but over time who knows.
those other fuses may be weird at different times as well you are using.
 
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