Update on battery drain problem please, and maybe a suggestion for how to add dedicated battery?

NewbieDan

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Hello, I just received my new K2 from OCD on Christmas eve. Super fast delivery. Thanks guys. Hopefully will have it installed later this week.

After a thorough search on this forum and the forum on the innovv website the last information I see on the battery drain subject is over a month old, and not exactly solved.
Can we get an update if there is one?
Also if I wanted to add a dedicated battery supplement such as a cell link, are there any diagrams on the best way to do that on a motorcycle.
This is of special concern to me because I have an alarm on my bike which also has a small draw.
Adding a parking mode draw will compound the situation.

Thanks,

Dan
 

OCD Tronic

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NewbieDan

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My bike has the hard side bags. Supposed to be waterproof. I would put the cell link in there with the dvr.
Note: Stock picture. Not my actual bike.1545772933527.png
 
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NewbieDan

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OCD, I'm aware of the low battery discharge prevention. I'm also aware that the consensus was too little to late, and the request was made to change the settings on that to be more conservative. I also remember from the thread that there was a 40ma draw with parking mode on, which was unacceptable. So that's why I asked if there was an update. I know you are aware of those threads and discussion. https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/battery-drain.36325/

Dan
 

OCD Tronic

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No update, haven’t had any customers report it being a show stopper yet.
 

kamkar1

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That one sleek looking bike :cool:

BUT ! in this day and age, simply too dangerous to venture out in between halfwit car drivers in their metal boxes, wearing nothing but a little leather / plastic and fiberglass.
 
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NewbieDan

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That one sleek looking bike :cool:

BUT ! in this day and age, simply too dangerous to venture out in between halfwit car drivers in their metal boxes, wearing nothing but a little leather / plastic and fiberglass.
You do realize that describes 90% of the bikes out there, right? You sound like you own a Harley, or something similar. Lots of metal and chrome. Not looking for a fight, or even any good natured ribbing. We'll agree to disagree.
In late 2015 there weren't a lot of choices with DCT/automatic transmission and low seat height (25.6 inches) for us short guys. There still aren't.
There are a few electric bikes, and the New Honda Gold wing which has the DCT, but the seat height is 4 inches higher and the bike is 250 lbs. heavier, and double the price. Both I and my budget won't fit on it. This one at least turns a lot of heads. There isn't anything available like it outside of anime.
 

kamkar1

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No Motorcycle are pretty much the only thing i am not certified to drive.
Only 2 wheeled i have ever driven in large amounts are a bicycle where i have clocked many 10.000 Km as i child / teen, but even here in one of the worlds best countries for bicycling would i dare to do that today, even if cars often have to climb a 4" tall granite curb to get up onto the bicycle path and kill me.
Not that my mini / almost micro car are much safer than on a motorcycle, i just feel that myself.
When i was a teen i saw the pieces of a friend spread down a road, after he T boned a car going 160 or so in a 50 km/h zone, and as he was wearing denim there was nothing to keep his body together, so it was literally a bloodbath.
So i am just apprehensive about being out in traffic and not being inside a metal box myself, after seeing for years what else car drivers do other than drive in their car.
I also see what i would call really bad motorcycle drivers, some i would even rank as insane death wish drivers, but as they generally seem to just kill them self i don't really care too much.

This punk i turned into the police, and what he did in those 30 seconds should be enough to take his license for at least 3 years + a hefty fine.


I like bikers, and i like car drivers and cyclists and pedestrians, but only the responsible ones, irresponsible people endangering me and the people i care about i do not like.
 

OCD Tronic

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I asked the factory for more details.

Response:

"After the ignition goes off for 10 seconds, the power draw is 8 mA, if parking mode is enabled, it’s 40mA. If the converter detects power from battery is lower than 12.2V, parking mode will be disabled & the power draw will be down to 8mA. That’s very low power consumption. We made improvements. Power draw will be 6mA down from 8mA before. If battery power is lower 12.7V, the power consumption will be 6mA. For 10AH battery, it can support two weeks before going to be 12.7V (Very lower power consumption) be sure the battery is fully charged"
 

CamOssaurius

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would be a non issue if using a Cellink though as there is no draw on the bike's electricals when parked
I have found myself with the same dilemma: how to protect the bike battery.
The solution I found is not relying on the products' protection; rather I was also thinking about using an auxiliary battery, which may be quite small. The cost of the Cellink seems absurd to what I need (a simple 12v battery able to life support any accessories without affect bike's battery).

The way I'm drawing it is using a relay (SSR - solid state relay, dc-dc, 40A) to control the disconnection of the main battery from the fuse block (probably a fuzeblock, in my case) .

Components used:
. SSR (DC-DC, Fotek??)
. Fuzeblock FZ-1 (6 outputs, 12v or +12v switched, 10A each)
. Aux battery (if not ready made, 4x LiFoPo4 cells with a BMS)

Main batt would be connected to the fuse block, but through the relay, which would be connected to a +12v switched;
Aux battery also connected to the fuse block;

When running, the switched +12v would allow current from the main battery to the fuse block, allowing powering the accessories and charging the aux battery.
When not running, the +12v switched would be without power disconnecting the main battery from the fuse block; it would still be connected to the aux battery, powering accessories.

Any thoughts??

Maybe I could attach a simple drawing, if anyone is interested...

Regards,
Joao
 
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NewbieDan

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I'm not an electrician. I only understand the basics. I usually collect the information and give it to my mechanic to make it happen.
Can I assume that only aftermarket accessories will be attached to the fuse block, and it will not interfere with the bike's regular connection?
The bike needs power to maintain little things like clock, etc.
Personally I have no space for a fuse block in my bike. The side case is too far away to reroute all the crap I have on my bike already that doesn't draw power.

I will consider this, but I'm just leaning toward a Shorai 19ah battery
This should be a good main battery.
 

CamOssaurius

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I'm not an electrician.
And that's 2 of us :)


Can I assume that only aftermarket accessories will be attached to the fuse block, and it will not interfere with the bike's regular connection?
Totally correct. the bike's loom would only be tapped for the switched +12v.
+12v and -12v would come from battery to the Fuzeblock, and everything else (switched or always live) would come from it.


Personally I have no space for a fuse block in my bike. The side case is too far away to reroute all the crap I have on my bike already that doesn't draw power.
If it works, don't touch it! :)
This gimmick would only be useful to protect main batt from acessories that drain power while the bike is off...

Which bike is yours?

Regards!
 

DesertBike

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If I am reading this right, there are at least two mitigations possible.

1) Don't use parking mode. I think that would be ok for me as I generally park in a secure enough location that it's not needed.

2) If parking mode cuts off when the battery reaches 12.7V, that could be ok too. It shouldn't be enough discharge to essentially ruin the battery.

Also, it's good to know that the voltage threshold can apparently be adjusted via software update. Is there any way that could become a user configurable feature?
 
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