Using 2nd car battery vs. Cell Link B

Michael J

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For Parking Mode on Thinkware 800 series, Wondering why you could not just install a 2nd car battery in the car, wire them together serial and have the alternator recharge both?
 
Bit more to it then just wiring another battery in, need a dual battery isolator at minimum, lead acid batteries still don't like parasitic loads so you'd be looking at a deep cycle or AGM type battery, if your electrical system could support that
 
I would prefer a second battery for use in parking mode, but as jokiin say you will need that Dual battery isolator so the second battery is all that's drained by those extra things, this gizmo are pretty common in RVs and so on to make sure starter battery are kept safe.

There are also power packs like the iroad thing mentioned here https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/iroad-power-pack-lifepo4.30206/

BUT ! to me that just seem pretty expensive comparing to large USB power banks that granted cant do quite the same but still hold pretty much same hardware.

I think if you drive a lot and dont park for days in between with the cameras running then you can make do with a lead acid battery, but otherwise deep cycle or AGM as jokiin mention will be a good idea.

I would like some one to make that lifepo4 power pack larger and cheaper, i would be very interested in that case as i could then start to experiment with parking mode i have not used up until now.
 
I'm currently running on lead-acid battery but keeps my DR650S-2CH running 24/7 via BDP MotoPark FineSafer set to 12.0V cut-off. No issues what so ever, no cut-off experienced yet (did test and it works), taking into account my battery is a 80Ah and therefore could last twice as long as the usual 40Ah or 50Ah batteries in most cars and i'm easily getting 12hrs of run-time before i get to my car, and drive it for 30mins to and from work. This time is what it takes the battery to reach almost 99% completed charge anyway.

If you do decide to run a dashcam 24/7 you really need to calculate the powerdraw and the battery Ah (watt-hours) in terms of how much drain can be put on the battery, before it complete reaches dead-zone at 11.8V and starts to develop sulphates on the internal plates and at some point the cells will lose it's capacitance and thereby it's ability to store the power needed for cranking...

If you must go with 24/7 running cams, if you expect more than 12Hrs of parking-mode - taking into aspect that your battery can provide the power needed - either buy yourself a BDP or a B112 or an AGM-battery with enough Ahrs to meet the required powerdraw of your dashcam.

I do leave mine running 24/7 at all days, but when heading for vacation, the cam-system is getting shut off, due to the fact no battery will be able to run the dashcam for 14 days straight. ;)
 
Hmmm wouldnt do that on a big Mercedes.
They have a seriously extensive dual battery set up. And the Battery control module is very expensive. If you have their dual battery set up, its vital you disconnect and connect in the correct sequence .
Ignore that at your peril !!
Even if you have the single battery set up, like on the later cars, I definitely would avoid trying to set up your own home brew version. E.g. one Tuner Control Module for the HK Amp is £1,390 unfitted!
... as you could blow up even more expensive SAMs. Quite easy to kill off £2,000 worth of control modules
You would also definitely void your warranty.
If in any doubt ask your main dealer’s Electrician.
 
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