VIOFO A119 Mini 2 - powering a second cam

arcticfire

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I've got a A119 Mini 2 which I hardwired using their HK4 kit.

Last night some knife carrying pond floor scum slashed my tyre (people make Glasgow they say), but it must have happened after the 4 hour period. I'm thinking about getting another A119 Mini 2 for rearwards facing and increasing both to 8 hours parking mode, which I know will hurt my battery (I do a lot of short journeys as well which doesn't help) but a £200 tyre is also painful.

My first question is what would be the best way to power the second camera? I'm wondering if the USB-C from the hardwire kit could power a dual USB-C adapter that both cams could plug in to?

Or, is there an affordable powerbank solution yet for these cameras where they run off the powerbank when ignition is off and then when ignition is on the powerbank gets charged?

Also, how would two cameras work with the app?

I'm hoping this was just a random act of vandalism because there's been other cars attacked (not sure if their tyres were slashed though), but I might as well plan for the worst.
 
My first question is what would be the best way to power the second camera? I'm wondering if the USB-C from the hardwire kit could power a dual USB-C adapter that both cams could plug in to?
HK4 output rating is 5V / 3A (15 Watts).
Usually this is only enough amperage / current / power for one camera.
You may be able to use a splitter, and power two cameras, but you will most likely experience power starvation malfunction, (endless bootloop).
Especially with the long run of the extra Type-C cable to the A119 Mini 2 on the rear window.
Whatever you decide if you end up needing additional Hardwire Cable you may want to upgrade to HK6.
HK6 has thicker, pure copper wires that combat power starvation malfunctions.
Not to mention added Bluetooth functionality for “future proofing”.
See here for more info on HK6;
VIOFO HK6 Hardwire Cable - Test & Review PP
Or, is there an affordable powerbank solution yet for these cameras where they run off the powerbank when ignition is off and then when ignition is on the powerbank gets charged?
The term "powerbank" usually refers to cheap $20 Li-ion or Li-polymer phone chargers that are not suitable to be left in hot parked cars, (exploding fire hazard).
The term “Dash Cam Battery Pack” is like a powerbank but with two important differences;
1.) It uses a completely different battery chemistry called LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate). Basically 100% guaranteed to never explode into a ball of fire under any circumstance.
2.) Plug & Play Wiring / Integration to enable Parking Mode


Also, how would two cameras work with the app?
They’ll work just fine.
You’ll need to connect to each one individually, (not simultaneously).
Also, if you use the Bluetooth Remote you can only pair one remote to one camera.
Thankfully these cameras have Voice Commands, so you could just bark “ Lock The Video” to the cameras.

VIOFO is releasing 4 new product September 15, 2026.
I think one of the products is what you’re looking for.
-Chuck
 
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I've got a A119 Mini 2 which I hardwired using their HK4 kit.

Last night some knife carrying pond floor scum slashed my tyre (people make Glasgow they say), but it must have happened after the 4 hour period. I'm thinking about getting another A119 Mini 2 for rearwards facing and increasing both to 8 hours parking mode, which I know will hurt my battery (I do a lot of short journeys as well which doesn't help) but a £200 tyre is also painful.

My first question is what would be the best way to power the second camera? I'm wondering if the USB-C from the hardwire kit could power a dual USB-C adapter that both cams could plug in to?

Or, is there an affordable powerbank solution yet for these cameras where they run off the powerbank when ignition is off and then when ignition is on the powerbank gets charged?

Also, how would two cameras work with the app?

I'm hoping this was just a random act of vandalism because there's been other cars attacked (not sure if their tyres were slashed though), but I might as well plan for the worst.

I have done the same with a few Viofo dash cams. I suggest putting the HK3/4/6 module part of the cable at the rear of the car. This gives the HK module the highest battery voltage, which it then converts to 5 VDC. I don't recall the wire gauge, but match it. At the tag end of the HK3/4/6, you can crimp the new wire there, then pull it to the fuse box.

Put the new HK temporarily in place and then measure how much new wire you need. Take that footage and purchase the wire that you need. If you are uncomfortable with crimping, etc., you can take the new wire to a local stereo shop to have it crimped for you.

If you put the HK3/4/6 at the fuse box in the front of the car, you will then be extending 5 VDC to your dash cam at the rear of the car; in this scenario, voltage drop becomes a possibility. If you put the HK3/4/6 at the rear of the car, near the dash cam, you will have a full 5 VDC going to the dash cam.
 
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HK4 output rating is 5V / 3A (15 Watts).
Usually this is only enough amperage / current / power for one camera.
You may be able to use a splitter, and power two cameras, but you will most likely experience power starvation malfunction, (endless bootloop).
Especially with the long run of the extra Type-C cable to the A119 Mini 2 on the rear window.
Whatever you decide if you end up needing additional Hardwire Cable you may want to upgrade to HK6.
HK6 has thicker, pure copper wires that combat power starvation malfunctions.
Not to mention added Bluetooth functionality for “future proofing”.
See here for more info on HK6;
VIOFO HK6 Hardwire Cable - Test & Review PP

The term "powerbank" usually refers to cheap $20 Li-ion or Li-polymer phone chargers that are not suitable to be left in hot parked cars, (exploding fire hazard).
The term “Dash Cam Battery Pack” is like a powerbank but with two important differences;
1.) It uses a completely different battery chemistry cal LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate).
Basically 100% guaranteed to never explode into a ball of fire under any circumstance.
2.) Plug & Play Wiring / Integration to enable Parking Mode



They’ll work just fine.
You’ll need to connect to each one individually, (not simultaneously).
Also, if you use the Bluetooth Remote you can only pair one remote to one camera.
Thankfully these cameras have Voice Commands, so you could just bark “ Lock The Video” to the cameras.

VIOFO is releasing 4 new product September 15, 2026.
I think one of the products is what you’re looking for.
-Chuck

Thanks for all that info, very helpful and appreciated. Time to get my thinking cap on!
 
I have done the same with a few Viofo dash cams. I suggest putting the HK3/4/6 module part of the cable at the rear of the car. This gives the HK module the highest battery voltage, which it then converts to 5 VDC. I don't recall the wire gauge, but match it. At the tag end of the HK3/4/6, you can crimp the new wire there, then pull it to the fuse box.

Put the new HK temporarily in place and then measure how much new wire you need. Take that footage and purchase the wire that you need. If you are uncomfortable with crimping, etc., you can take the new wire to a local stereo shop to have it crimped for you.

If you put the HK3/4/6 at the fuse box in the front of the car, you will then be extending 5 VDC to your dash cam at the rear of the car; in this scenario, voltage drop becomes a possibility. If you put the HK3/4/6 at the rear of the car, near the dash cam, you will have a full 5 VDC going to the dash cam.

Thanks for this. I might not be following you here, but do you mean wire up an additional hardwire kit in the rear for a second camera otherwise if I relocate the current one then won't the front camera have the long run instead?
 
Maybe it would be easier to just get somthing like this, on the basis that I'm assuming the rear and cabin camera plug into the main front camera? I could just keep my existing hardwire kit or upgrade it to the 6, but that's easy enough.

 
Yes, this requires a second HK hardwire kit. So, at the back of the automobile, you have your A119 Mini 2; it connects to the USB Type-C port from the HK kit; then the HK voltage module, which is mostly a buck converter designed to step down voltage, can be Velcroed to the glass, headliner, or hidden in the headliner. You pull the wire exiting the module to the front of the car as far as it will go. From there, crimp in the additional wire needed to reach the fuse block. At the front fuse block, you crimp in your fuses.

This gives you a A119 Mini 2 at the front and the back of the car. As well, you can put an interior camera on each unit and have them facing forwards and backward. The interior cams will catch a surprising amount of outside activity.
 
Maybe it would be easier to just get somthing like this, on the basis that I'm assuming the rear and cabin camera plug into the main front camera? I could just keep my existing hardwire kit or upgrade it to the 6, but that's easy enough.


Yes, you would then run the wiring for the rear cam to the rear of the car, and mount the front and interior cams on the windscreen. All powered from one connection. How many cams you use depends on the resolution quality you want at both ends of the car and how much interior coverage you want. This method is much simpler and is what most people do.

I prefer a full camera at the rear with an interior cam, but I am the odd man out on this setup; most people won't use this method.

If you are concerned about battery power, the Vueroid S1-4K or S1-QHD would be a better option.
 
Maybe it would be easier to just get somthing like this
If you could wait 36 Hours, VIOFO will release 4 new “arrivals” that might fit your application better.

 
Yes, this requires a second HK hardwire kit. So, at the back of the automobile, you have your A119 Mini 2; it connects to the USB Type-C port from the HK kit; then the HK voltage module, which is mostly a buck converter designed to step down voltage, can be Velcroed to the glass, headliner, or hidden in the headliner. You pull the wire exiting the module to the front of the car as far as it will go. From there, crimp in the additional wire needed to reach the fuse block. At the front fuse block, you crimp in your fuses.

This gives you a A119 Mini 2 at the front and the back of the car. As well, you can put an interior camera on each unit and have them facing forwards and backward. The interior cams will catch a surprising amount of outside activity.

Thanks for that. I'll need to think about this as the 3 cam package seems like an easier solution. I don't think I need absolute quality for the rear and interior as the intention is for close range such as a person (I use this term lightly) right outside my car.

Good to hear that an interior cam will get a lot of outside activity, that was going to be my next question, specifically it's FOV.



Yes, you would then run the wiring for the rear cam to the rear of the car, and mount the front and interior cams on the windscreen. All powered from one connection. How many cams you use depends on the resolution quality you want at both ends of the car and how much interior coverage you want. This method is much simpler and is what most people do.

I prefer a full camera at the rear with an interior cam, but I am the odd man out on this setup; most people won't use this method.

If you are concerned about battery power, the Vueroid S1-4K or S1-QHD would be a better option.

Thanks. I had a quick look at the S1-QHD, is it because of the low power state during parking mode due to not using internal batteries or capacitors? Does it only use the G-sensor when in parking mode, or does the extreme low power also apply for motion detect?

I've just checked my battery 1/2 hour ago. It's a very new battery, was always sitting around 12.7V. But since increasing the parking mode to 8 hours it has dropped to 12.2V. That's getting too low for my liking. I gave it a boost with my powerbank car battery booster and it's back up to 12.6V, but I think I'm going to need to look at a dash cam battery bank.



If you could wait 36 Hours, VIOFO will release 4 new “arrivals” that might fit your application better.


I'm guessing they are going to be rather expensive? I wonder if their current products might come down in price upon the new release?
 
This is what I'm defending against. My poor neighbour down the road had her car done as well, they did two of her tyres, so she couldn't even use a spare to get mobile. She was legally parked in a disabled bay outside her house because her young daughter is in a wheelchair. So many bad souls out there.

PXL_20260912_093226846.webp
 
Good to hear that an interior cam will get a lot of outside activity, that was going to be my next question, specifically it's FOV.
The IR Interior camera is going to be worth it’s weight in gold.
Especially in your situation trying to capture vandalism.
VIOFO upgraded the “normal” IR Interior Camera from the A229 Pro & A229 Plus with two key improvements.
1.) 1080p to 2K
2.) “wide FOV” to “ultra wide fisheye FOV”
Here’s what the difference looks like side by side;


I'm guessing they are going to be rather expensive? I wonder if their current products might come down in price upon the new release?
We get these questions every release;
1.) Should I get last years model to save money?
2.) Is the new model with new hardware & software worth the money?
3.) I have “x” model VIOFO, is it worth the money upgrading to the new model?

Every year early adopters jump at the chance to get the new model.
VIOFO usually offers a free VIOFO Brand 256GB SD Card for the first 100 customers that pre-order from Official VIOFO website.
Example: Buy today, and they ship out in 2 weeks.
Last year’s A329S release I remember there was a lot of upset folks who pre-ordered, and there was some kind of logistics / shipping delay, and they didn’t get their cameras for a month, or more.
They also usually have a “free VIOFO SD Card” for the Amazon release.
As always it’s usually a good idea buying from a retailer within your country of residence so you have access to consumer protection laws, and recourse if something goes awry.
You being in the UK, I think Amazon UK might be a good idea because you will also have a “free” 30-Day return policy, (no return shipping cost).
If you buy from OFFICIAL VIOFO WEBSITE you’ll have to check their current return policy.
I'm guessing it would be best to stick to something like this?
Yes, but stay tuned for 9/15/26.
 

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The IR Interior camera is going to be worth it’s weight in gold.
Especially in your situation trying to capture vandalism.
VIOFO upgraded the “normal” IR Interior Camera from the A229 Pro & A229 Plus with two key improvements.
1.) 1080p to 2K
2.) “wide FOV” to “ultra wide fisheye FOV”
Here’s what the difference looks like side by side;



We get these questions every release;
1.) Should I get last years model to save money?
2.) Is the new model with new hardware & software worth the money?
3.) I have “x” model VIOFO, is it worth the money upgrading to the new model?

Every year early adopters jump at the chance to get the new model.
VIOFO usually offers a free VIOFO Brand 256GB SD Card for the first 100 customers that pre-order from Official VIOFO website.
Example: Buy today, and they ship out in 2 weeks.
Last year’s A329S release I remember there was a lot of upset folks who pre-ordered, and there was some kind of logistics / shipping delay, and they didn’t get their cameras for a month, or more.
They also usually have a “free VIOFO SD Card” for the Amazon release.
As always it’s usually a good idea buying from a retailer within your country of residence so you have access to consumer protection laws, and recourse if something goes awry.
You being in the UK, I think Amazon UK might be a good idea because you will also have a “free” 30-Day return policy, (no return shipping cost).
If you buy from OFFICIAL VIOFO WEBSITE you’ll have to check their current return policy.

Yes, but stay tuned for 9/15/26.

Thanks, greatly appreciate all this.

That's a great FOV, looks perfect. Do you know if the windows reflect the IR with the interior cam at night, or can the IR be turned off?
 
Do you know if the windows reflect the IR with the interior cam at night
It depends where you mount the Interior Camera, and the type of car you have.
or can the IR be turned off?
Correct.
You have full control over Interior Camera’s IR LED Emitters.
You may select ON / OFF / AUTO.
Here’s what AUTO transition looks like while driving, (Off to On, back to Off).
Start video at 1:10


Here’s a demo of controlling IR LED’s with smartphone APP cycling through ON / OFF / AUTO.

 
It depends where you mount the Interior Camera, and the type of car you have.

Correct.
You have full control over Interior Camera’s IR LED Emitters.
You may select ON / OFF / AUTO.
Here’s what AUTO transition looks like while driving, (Off to On, back to Off).
Start video at 1:10


Here’s a demo of controlling IR LED’s with smartphone APP cycling through ON / OFF / AUTO.


That's good to know cheers.

Well, all that's left is to check out the wiring instructions for the BP100 before I buy it, although I'm assuming it's just the same as hardwiring a dash cam with an Acc+. Bat+ and Ground wire to be wired with add-a-circuits. Speaking of which, I'm sure I read a comment somewhere about them supplying four different types of add-a-circuits, but it needs two of the same type to install. That seems rather illogical.
 
all that's left is to check out the wiring instructions for the BP100 before I buy it
If you could just wait another 16 hours, there might be an easier way for wiring.
 
If you could just wait another 16 hours, there might be an easier way for wiring.

I'm sure I can manage that! I was going to get that 3 cam setup in the meantime, but it will kill my car battery so will wait to get the whole lot at once. Then it will be hunt time and catch this tyre slasher.
 
It's been over 16 hours! Is there something new that has come out?
Oh my gosh, so sorry.
It’s been @$$holes & elbows over here with the 4 new models.
Yes, we got a new BP60 Dash Cam Battery Pack, that has a bunch of new functionality over the BP100.
BP60 Thread is HERE
As far as camera’s there three that might fit your application;

A149 Pro Duo 2CH thread is HERE

T330 3CH thread is HERE

T340 4CH thread is HERE

Here's a video from @Vortex Radar that goes over everything.

 
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