VIOFO A129 non-IR 1080p Modified Firmware MODs Archive

[mellda]

very difficult conditions due to the amount of detail that needs encoding, the same car in a situation without those empty tree lined roads would yield different results

Yes, the light conditions were not very good. But the result supprised me how difficult to read it is.

 

[jokiin]

Yes, the light conditions were not very good. But the result supprised me how difficult to read it is.

not surprising really, too much encoding needed in that scene

 

[mellda]

a mod firmware with higher bitrate would help in a scene like that as there is a lot of encoding needed at the time

The max is 24 and 20? The stock is 16 and __? I am curious how much video I can persist on my 256 card.

 

[jokiin]

The max is 24 and 20? The stock is 16 and __? I am curious how much video I can persist on my 256 card.

they go higher than that, check here and you can see more detailed info on each version https://viofo-dash-cam-modified-firmware.blogspot.com/p/download-a129-mod-file.html

 

[mellda]

they go higher than that, check here and you can see more detailed info on each version https://viofo-dash-cam-modified-firmware.blogspot.com/p/download-a129-mod-file.html

Are there any disadvantages when I flash the FW with the highes bitrate? Only the memory?

 

[jokiin]

will use more space, will generate a bit more heat

 

[Nigel]

Well, I don't know... The measurements seem legit to me, since the dashcam is running at 5V all the time and he's measuring right before the dashcam's power port. I believe that hardwire kit's own consumption is negligible.

It would be OK if it was always running at 5 volts, but the amps value will be 8% higher if your powerbank supplies 5.2 volts compared to 4.8 volts (voltage tends to vary with load), or if your car battery has 12.8 volts (nearly full) compared to 11.8 volts (nearly empty), makes it hard to work out how long a powerbank/battery will last, and impossible to compare different cameras tested under different conditions.

The watts value tells you how much power will be used which makes it easy to work out how long a powerbank/battery will last, the voltage is irrelevant if you measure in watts, if you have a 70 Wh battery and your camera uses 3.5 watts then you will get 70/3.5 = 20 hours, doesn't matter if the voltage drops as the battery empties, and you can directly compare the power consumption of different cameras, and see instantly which uses the least power.

It is the power consumption that matters, not the rate of flow, we measure power consumption in watts, that is why your house electricity meter measures watts, or kilowatts, not amps.

I received more than a „LOL”, see here. So right now I am not the only stupid from DCT, we are at least two!
enjoy,
Mtz

Yes, I had noticed, I didn't really understand the LOL, seemed like a factual post, meant to be helpful, nothing to laugh at! You didn't even get a like

 

[BCHobbyist]

The max is 24 and 20? The stock is 16 and __? I am curious how much video I can persist on my 256 card.

All of my A129 MODs have higher Bitrates than limited official 16Mb/s firmware. I usually suggest starting with 24 so load MOD-4Uo, but for shocking improved image quality over the stock firmware try 6Uo but remember to change Menu > Loop Recording at 2min clips.
Once you record some MOD footage take a single screenshot of video frame and conpare to the one you posted.

 

[kevindd992002]

1) So here's what I have for my A129 front camera in action:

Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life

www.dropbox.com

It's a lot of reflection but I barely see my hood there, which is needed as a reference. Is there anything else I can do? The front camera is installed like so:

32CB2DA2-2ECC-4603-8D44-CEECEE87B99F.png

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Do I also need the CPL filter even though I read that I should not use it if I have m windshield tinted?

2) Here's my rear camera's video:

Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life

www.dropbox.com

Anything I can do to avoid the defroster lines?

 

[HonestReview]

1) So here's what I have for my A129 front camera in action:

Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life

www.dropbox.com

It's a lot of reflection but I barely see my hood there, which is needed as a reference. Is there anything else I can do? The front camera is installed like so:

32CB2DA2-2ECC-4603-8D44-CEECEE87B99F.png

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Do I also need the CPL filter even though I read that I should not use it if I have m windshield tinted?

2) Here's my rear camera's video:

Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life

www.dropbox.com

Anything I can do to avoid the defroster lines?

1. Reflection is normal. I have same problem due to tint. But windshield glass will also will cause a level of reflection, too. Nothing you can do but try to adjust the position of Camera to see if another spot gives less glare.

2. I have run my camera through the gauntlet. I have settled on Stock Firmware, Stock Bitrate, No WDR, No CPL Filter. WDR causes a lot of pixelation and saturation at night. The better "visibility" is offset by a poorer image quality, especially through tint.

CPL will cause a Halo effect in daytime, but will aid nightime glare. I found removing CPL to be the better balance. No Halo effect in daytime and better image quality at night. But yes, I then have to endure more "glare" when its dark outside. No perfect combination.

3. Nothing you can do about grid lines....

 

[BCHobbyist]

1) So here's what I have for my A129 front camera in action:

Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life

www.dropbox.com

It's a lot of reflection but I barely see my hood there, which is needed as a reference. Is there anything else I can do? The front camera is installed like so:

32CB2DA2-2ECC-4603-8D44-CEECEE87B99F.png

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Do I also need the CPL filter even though I read that I should not use it if I have m windshield tinted?
2) Here's my rear camera's video:

Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life

www.dropbox.com

Anything I can do to avoid the defroster lines?

Tinted windshield and rear windows darken Dashcam video, if you attach CPL Filter it will darken it more, suggest running without CPL and ignore reflections just aim Lens up slightly on Front camera.
The Rear Camera will work best without CPL on heavy tinted window. Embedded heating or antenna grid wires can be minimized if you mount camera between them. Usually there a wider gap near top that skips one grid wire horizontally, if yours has this space position Lens view between the widest gap. On my vehicle it was 5cm down from top edge.

Currently working on A129 MOD-6Up which adjusts hidden Brightness value. I can create a custom MOD for Tinted windows with 100% Brightness for both Day & Night / Front & Rear (4 separate tables), it should make a noticeable improvement.
Let me know if you're interested.

 

[BCHobbyist]

The newest A129 MODs will be released after the A119 which needs it desperately hopefully today.
So far the new changes to A129 require separate Sharpness values for 130 & 140FOV Lens which isn't desired. Will need few testers to confirm. Adjustments to Color and Brightness are also made with interesting results now that Night (low light) can be boosted for both cameras separately.
Best balanced new MOD is 7Up - it just requires more testing under all lighting conditions before downloadable.

 

[HonestReview]

Tinted windshield and rear windows darken Dashcam video, if you attach CPL Filter it will darken it more, suggest running without CPL and ignore reflections just aim Lens up slightly on Front camera.
The Rear Camera will work best without CPL on heavy tinted window. Embedded heating or antenna grid wires can be minimized if you mount camera between them. Usually there a wider gap near top that skips one grid wire horizontally, if yours has this space position Lens view between the widest gap. On my vehicle it was 5cm down from top edge.

Currently working on A129 MOD-6Up which adjusts hidden Brightness value. I can create a custom MOD for Tinted windows with 100% Brightness for both Day & Night / Front & Rear (4 separate tables), it should make a noticeable improvement.
Let me know if you're interested.

One thing you omit is the fact that anyone with front and rear tint SHOULD NOT mount the camera to the window using the 3M adhesive. You risk damaging your tint if camera ever needs removed. Therefore, aligning the camera in between the lines is unfeasible. I used a suction cup on front and rear. See below.

=https://www.amazon.com/gp/B000A7K0VW

 

[BCHobbyist]

I'd never recommend suction mounts as a permanent solution since they can introduce unwanted vibrations and all will eventually fall especially on hot days. Tinted windshields and Dashcams reduce image quality, create mounting challenges and cause frustrations. I also omit suggesting owners never buy vehicles with tinted windshields.

 

[HonestReview]

I'd never recommend suction mounts as a permanent solution since they can introduce unwanted vibrations and all will eventually fall especially on hot days. Tinted windshields and Dashcams reduce image quality, create mounting challenges and cause frustrations. I also omit suggesting owners never buy vehicles with tinted windshields.

Take a few breaths.

1. The suction cup mount I use is very well made and I do not notice vibrations.

2. Tinted Windows are a pain in the butt for cameras. However, there's ZERO option for those owning a car with tinted windows. Either Suction Cup the Cameras or Destroy your tint. It's a all or none proposition. Sticking the 3M adhesive on the tint means that removal will 100% damage the tint if removed.

3. Adhesive on a back windshield (No Tint) poses risks too. If you place the adhesive on defrost lines, you will NEVER be able to remove that mount. The second you do, there's a very good chance you broke the rear defrost. And will either need a new windshield or try to get a kit to repair broken grid lines.

So "Not Recommending" tinted windows is an aside point. What to do when you have them is what I am addressing now.

 

[jokiin]

Take a few breaths.

1. The suction cup mount I use is very well made and I do not notice vibrations.

2. Tinted Windows are a pain in the butt for cameras. However, there's ZERO option for those owning a car with tinted windows. Either Suction Cup the Cameras or Destroy your tint. It's a all or none proposition. Sticking the 3M adhesive on the tint means that removal will 100% damage the tint if removed.

3. Adhesive on a back windshield (No Tint) poses risks too. If you place the adhesive on defrost lines, you will NEVER be able to remove that mount. The second you do, there's a very good chance you broke the rear defrost. And will either need a new windshield or try to get a kit to repair broken grid lines.

So "Not Recommending" tinted windows is an aside point. What to do when you have them is what I am addressing now.

the ARKON suction mounts are very high quality, wouldn't expect any issues from that

tinted windows are a fact of life, I don't hesitate to stick a 3M mount to them though, if not selling the car with cameras intact can either leave the mount behind or retint the window if it's that big a deal

 

[HonestReview]

the ARKON suction mounts are very high quality, wouldn't expect any issues from that

tinted windows are a fact of life, I don't hesitate to stick a 3M mount to them though, if not selling the car with cameras intact can either leave the mount behind or retint the window if it's that big a deal

You still run into three unresolved issues:

1. What if another camera comes out that uses a different mount? What do you do with the old one? Leave it on and place on a second mount?
2. Any attempt to remove mount will destroy tint. And for those placing on Rear Window without Tint, risk destroying the Rear Defrost Grid Lines.

With the ARKON suction mount, I can easily remove the camera and mount for future upgrades. Without any risk of damage to my vehicle. And those ARKON mounts are very durable. At least so far. Will know when summer rolls around.

 

[jokiin]

suction mount is not for everyone but if it works for you that's ok, the ARKON is a good choice

demister lines are only an issue if you stick the mount on top of them, not something I would ever suggest doing anyway, anything tint related is easy enough to overcome so a non issue in the scheme of things

 

[HonestReview]

suction mount is not for everyone but if it works for you that's ok, the ARKON is a good choice

Agreed. But I would recommend suction cup option to those of us who have tint. Of course, if you don't ever plan to remove the mount and all future camera upgrades rely upon the same mount, then skip the suction cup.

demister lines are only an issue if you stick the mount on top of them, not something I would ever suggest doing anyway, anything tint related is easy enough to overcome so a non issue in the scheme of things

Again true. However, you need to be extra careful because once that 3M adhesive is planted, there's no "undoing". But yes, it can be done properly and avoid the grid lines.

 

[kevindd992002]

Take a few breaths.

1. The suction cup mount I use is very well made and I do not notice vibrations.

2. Tinted Windows are a pain in the butt for cameras. However, there's ZERO option for those owning a car with tinted windows. Either Suction Cup the Cameras or Destroy your tint. It's a all or none proposition. Sticking the 3M adhesive on the tint means that removal will 100% damage the tint if removed.

3. Adhesive on a back windshield (No Tint) poses risks too. If you place the adhesive on defrost lines, you will NEVER be able to remove that mount. The second you do, there's a very good chance you broke the rear defrost. And will either need a new windshield or try to get a kit to repair broken grid lines.

So "Not Recommending" tinted windows is an aside point. What to do when you have them is what I am addressing now.

I have all glass windows tinted and am actually off to the tint installer today to have the cameras removed "properly" with heat hoping that it won't destroy the tint. It has just been one week so they said that I should bring it in asap so that the mounts are still "fresh" so that they can still be removed.

Are those ARKON suction mounts the best there is to it?

Tinted windshield and rear windows darken Dashcam video, if you attach CPL Filter it will darken it more, suggest running without CPL and ignore reflections just aim Lens up slightly on Front camera.
The Rear Camera will work best without CPL on heavy tinted window. Embedded heating or antenna grid wires can be minimized if you mount camera between them. Usually there a wider gap near top that skips one grid wire horizontally, if yours has this space position Lens view between the widest gap. On my vehicle it was 5cm down from top edge.

Currently working on A129 MOD-6Up which adjusts hidden Brightness value. I can create a custom MOD for Tinted windows with 100% Brightness for both Day & Night / Front & Rear (4 separate tables), it should make a noticeable improvement.
Let me know if you're interested.

For the front camera, I thought I need to aim the camera more downward so that I can see more of my hood? What would aiming it upward achieve?

I do have my rear camera placed in between grid lines. I can't put it high up because it catches the center brake light on top so I had to skip one grid line space from the top.

So that mod is recommended for any type of tint?



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