Viofo plugged in for 8 days straight?

you'll get better results from the camera if you point the lens down a bit further

Further from where and I disagree............ What he needs is either a grey or black dashboard mat t0 significantly reduce dash reflections and start again without speculation
 
The pitch on my window is pretty steep, just the way trucks are built. I don't get much (if any) reflection.
One thing I haven't done too much of is look at the footage. I shall do that today.
 
Not about reflection, just about white balance, too much sky and not enough road

Fair call......... But, reflection off the dash can affect white balance so dash reflection should be the one to minimize first IMO
 
Tilting the camera up that much will reduce reflection, at the expense of white balance/auto exposure problems, the area you want to capture in front of the vehicle will suffer the most, reflection is the lesser of two evils
 
I don't know how big is your battery but in europe average battery size is about 70 amperes so 40 amps will make car inoperative.
Battery capacities are not measured in amps.
 
Just get a hard-wire kit that comes with a 12.6v cutoff. They are $3-12 depending on where you get it.
 
Just loaded V3.3 firmware yesterday, so still early. I've measured power draw for V3.1 firmware in the various Parking Mode sub-modes (Normal recording, Standby Mode, and Time-lapse) but not published. To give you a rough idea of the results: Standby Mode (not recording) draws about 1/2 the power of Normal Recording, and Time-lapse draws about 4/5 the power of Normal Recording, even at 1 fps (surprisingly). I want to re-verify the Time-lapse numbers.

The easiest way to activate and sustain the different sub modes is in the comfort of your home as follows:
  • Use the supplied long or short USB cable and connect to a USB wall charger or USB power bank. To see what the camera is doing precisely, you need to turn screensaver OFF.
  • Set up the camera to include a TV or something moving in the FOV of the camera.
  • At power up the A119 starts in Normal recording which is sustained by continued motion in the FOV (Motion Detection) and/or camera movement (G-sensor).
  • The A119 will not go into Time-lapse recording without first going to Standby Mode.
  • To activate the Standby Mode, cover the lens with a dark cloth and don't move or jar the camera. After 1.5 minutes or so the LCD (if on) will turn off, the red REC button light will turn off, and the green Power button light will turn on. Camera is now in Standby mode (not recording) and will stay there as long as no motion is sensed in the camera FOV and no camera movement is sensed (by the G-sensor).
  • To activate Time-lapse recording, remove the cover from the lens without moving the camera and provide motion (e.g. a TV) in the camera FOV. The green Power button light goes out, and the red REC button light turns on indicating the camera is in either Time-lapse or Normal recording (you can't tell looking at the lights). If screensaver is off, Time-lapse recording is indicated by the "xFPS" symbol, where x is that value selected in the PM menu, below and left of the red blinking record dot. Time-lapse recording is sustained by motion in the camera FOV.
  • To activate Normal recording, gently pick up or move the camera. Parking Mode Normal recording is indicated on the LCD screen by the "car" icon below left of the blinking red record dot (replacing the "xFPS" symbol). Too much movement may generate an Event (emergency) recording indicated by the big yellow triangle on the LCD. Either motion in the FOV or camera movement (G-sensor trigger) will sustain Normal recording.
  • If for some reason you interrupt recording while in Parking Mode by pressing the REC button, you may need to check and reset the G-sensor menu setting if it has stuck in "High Sensitivity".

@viofo I suggest this write-up/example be included in the A119 manual, guide or other site/material referencing this feature.
 
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Battery capacities are not measured in amps.
if they aren't measured in amps, then why do they bother to write the CCA (cold-cranking amps) on every single automotive battery i've ever seen?

besides physical size/dimensions (which are prescribed by the "size number" such as 24/24R/35/86/etc), cranking amps are the only thing that differentiate car batteries - they all produce about 12vdc.
 
Hi Guys. I got an A119 pro, and hardwired it around a week ago. I had parking mode on for a week, but it was taking video all night long in the dark, and always used up the space on my SD card (64gb) I turned off the parking mode, so i only used it meanwhile i was on the road and driving.

In the weekend i did not drive with the car just 5km or less, so it was standing, and in the morning my battery was drained, could not start the car.

The dashcam is hardwired with viofos HK2 hardwire kit for constant power. As i read in this thread, should not be a problem for the car, that the dashcam is in stand by for for 48 hours...Any idea what can be the problem?
 
And the hardwire kit should have protection against battery drain...https://www.viofo.com/accessories/19-51-mini-0801a119a119sa119-proa118a118ca118c2b40wr1-car-camera-hardwire-kit.html#/28-hardwire_kit-normal
 
And the hardwire kit should have protection against battery drain...https://www.viofo.com/accessories/19-51-mini-0801a119a119sa119-proa118a118ca118c2b40wr1-car-camera-hardwire-kit.html#/28-hardwire_kit-normal
Hi Qubi,
It appears that kit drops the battery voltage down to 11.8V. Ordinarily I would have thought your battery would return to 12V once the kit switches the car cam off.
At night current temp where you live is it -2 degrees Celsius?
If so it might be the battery can't return to 12V until it gets warm. Jokin asked battery age, could also be why it doesn't recovery.
I put hot water on a flat battery but I don't live in such a cold place so not sure what would happen to the battery.

Re the constant recording check to see if the video footage doesn't have a light or reflection that flickers. Might be triggering it.
 
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