VIOFO Prototype Hardwire Kit - Test & Review

Panzer Platform said:
Do you have a dash cam battery pack in your possession?
Have you ever tested, or used a dash cam battery pack?
EGEN, PowerCore, etc.
I’m not talking about USB power banks.
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Nigel said:
Not sure what your point is?
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My point is sometimes your arguments are theoretical, and not based on hands on experience.
Sometimes you say things an A.I chatbot would say.
If you have never tested, or used a dash cam battery back it limits your practical knowledge / experience.
 
Nigel said:
....
The question is, what is the most useful cutoff voltage?
And is that voltage more useful than 0V? 0V seems completely useless to me!
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Nigel said:
.......
Maybe the cut off should be 10.8V, or 10.0V, as I suggested in post #6 ?
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I changed my mind and agree with @Nigel.
The most useful cut-off voltage is 10V clean, because:
All dedicated batteries are 4S LFPs, and for LFP the recommended cut-off voltage is 2.5V per cell or 10V for a pack.
Also, I think that the 6S is the best configuration for the future LTO battery packs, and 10V cut-off would be perfect for it.

Additionally the most useful cut-off voltage is 10V clean, because:
All the reasons @Nigel pointed above, like, it will be another layer of defense for dedicated batteries if internal BMS fails, will protect un-protected DIY Lithium batteries, will not completely destroy the starter battery, allowing it to be recovered, if someone accidentally uses this setting, etc.

I think it should be labeled "10V Lithium"

Of course it will not work with my 4S LTO Battery, but hey, I have my own 5.5V converters.
 
GPak said:
I changed my mind and agree with @Nigel.
The most useful cut-off voltage is 10V clean, because:
All dedicated batteries are 4S LFPs, and for LFP the recommended cut-off voltage is 2.5V per cell or 10V for a pack.
Also, I think that the 6S is the best configuration for the future LTO battery packs, and 10V cut-off would be perfect for it.

Additionally the most useful cut-off voltage is 10V clean, because:
All the reasons @Nigel pointed above, like, it will be another layer of defense for dedicated batteries if internal BMS fails, will protect un-protected DIY Lithium batteries, will not completely destroy the starter battery, allowing it to be recovered, if someone accidentally uses this setting, etc.

I think it should be labeled "10V Lithium"

Of course it will not work with my 4S LTO Battery, but hey, I have my own 5.5V converters.
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I disagree based on BlackVue, Thinkware, Vueroid, FineVu and all the other Korean dash cam brands have “OFF” as a LVC setting in their smartphone APP.
 
Panzer Platform said:
I disagree based on BlackVue, Thinkware, Vueroid, FineVu and all the other Korean dash cam brands have “OFF” as a LVC setting in their smartphone APP.
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Because of all these Korean brands are copying each other doesn't necessarily mean it is the best possible design sollution.
Viofo shouldn't just follow and copy potentially unsafe deaign solution, Viofo can lead and do better.
If all this Korean HKs are converting 12V into 5V they must be buck converters, right? And if so, at some voltage level above 5V they will basically stop working. There should be a number behind "OFF" setting. May be it is +/- 10V?
If you have any of these HK brands on hand, it is easy to check at what voltage they stop working and how.
Simply connect to your variable voltage power supply and slowly lower input voltage from 12 down while monitoring the output voltage.
Then we can see if it makes any sense to give up on all the safety benefits of 10V cutoff in exchange of whatever number you will get.

Also, labeling "10V Lithium" is just a suggestion, we can label it "OFF" as long as cut off voltage maintaind at about 10V.
 
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GPak said:
If all this Korean HKs are converting 12V into 5V they must be buck converters, right?
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“All” Korean brands mentioned do not use USB Type-C at 5 Volts.
They use a barrel connector with vehicle system voltage.

IMG_0348.webp

IMG_0347.webp

GPak said:
Also, labeling "10V Lithium" is just a suggestion, we can label it "OFF" as long as cut off voltage maintaind at about 10V.
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This is false & misleading.
OFF means OFF.
 
Panzer Platform said:
“All” Korean brands mentioned do not use USB Type-C at 5 Volts.
They use a barrel connector with vehicle system voltage.

View attachment 71633
View attachment 71634

This is false & misleading.
OFF means OFF.
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Oh my, I missed that, apparently Korean brands are running 12V directly to dash cam and conversion happens inside dash cam, exactly as I suggested in my post #35.
And I thought I am the one, who came up with that brilliant Idea, what a bummer. 🙁
Now that is what Viofo needs to copy from Korean brands, and the connector type does not matter, USB-C typically “smart” connector which can transfer from 5V and up to 28V as requested, also, can be as “dumb” as barrel connector, and that’s exactly what it is in case of Viofo dash cam for power transfer.
Basically any three pin connector, will work.

Back to what the”OFF LVC” really mean.

Obviously you cannot test Korean HK by itself, but you can do it with running dash cam.
Simply connect HK to your variable voltage power supply and let the dash cam run, then set it to "OFF LVC", then slowly lower input voltage from 12 down and see at what voltage the dash cam will shut off.
I am sure you will be surprised that "OFF" does not mean 0V, but likely somewhat above 5V and hopefully close to 10V.
Then we can blame Korean brands for “misleading” 🙂
 
Don't put Bluetooth on it with an app for setting the voltage, and data logger with history of how long battery lasted.
 
GPak said:
Oh my, I missed that, apparently Korean brands are running 12V directly to dash cam
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GPak said:
Now that is what Viofo needs to copy from Korean brands
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Nooooooo.
It must remain USB Type-C 5 Volt just like it is.
You’re ruining everything, (my inner 12 year old girl voice). Lol

GPak said:
Back to what the”OFF LVC” really mean.

Obviously you cannot test Korean HK by itself, but you can do it with running dash cam.
Simply connect HK to your variable voltage power supply and let the dash cam run, then set it to "OFF LVC", then slowly lower input voltage from 12 down and see at what voltage the dash cam will shut off.
I am sure you will be surprised that "OFF" does not mean 0V, but likely somewhat above 5V and hopefully close to 10V.
Then we can blame Korean brands for “misleading” 🙂
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All the Korean brand dash cams I’ve tested I sent back to the manufacturer.
BlackVue DR900X Plus
BlackVue DR970X
Thinkware U3000
FineVu GX1000 (I sold this one because they would not send me a return shipping label)
GNET G-ON2 (I sold this one too)
I guess I only sent 3 back.
 
Panzer Platform said:
Can’t you just look at the first & last parking mode clip time stamp?
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It takes a long time on VIOFO app, turning on wifi, connecting, the app with the long wait for file list.
Needs cloud also.
 
Try to remove SD card with thumbnail, springs out into traffic causing a crash that isn't recorded.
 
I recently ordered and received three HK4s without the low voltage cut-off.
For this specific HK4 hardwire kit, the 12.4V setting, is changed to disable the low voltage cut-off.

I tested one of these HK4, with variable voltage power supply powering A229 Plus (2ch) in low-bit-rate parking mode.
I gradually lowered the voltage in 0.1V steps, waiting about 30 seconds at each voltage step for the dash cam to turn-off.
The dash cam eventually turned-off at about 5.1V ±0.1V, great!
(Note, that the 5.1±0.1V is the working limit for the HK4’s buck converter and not a clean cut-off setting)

This setting allows to use the full range of voltage available from the dedicated batteries, or DIY batteries, or power stations with unregulated 12VDC output, for the longest possible parking time.
So now, I can use my (DIY) 5S LTO battery down to 8.5V cut-off voltage as set by battery's BMS, and I can use my (DIY) 4S LFP battery down to 10.4V cut-off voltage as set by battery's BMS.

Special thanks to @VIOFO-Support for assisting with the purchase.
The process was smooth and strait forward.
Once again, @viofo customer service has proven itself to be one of the best in the industry.
There are some great dash cams on the market, but a great dash cam with great customer support is rare.
 
GPak said:
The dash cam eventually turned-off at about 5.1V ±0.1V, great!
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Wow, doesn't the HK4 normally output more than that?

So it is suitable for use in classic cars with 6V batteries 🙂
 
Nigel said:
Wow, doesn't the HK4 normally output more than that?

So it is suitable for use in classic cars with 6V batteries 🙂
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For both, the regular HK4 and the HK4-without low voltage cutoff:
Using USB tester:
From 12V and down to 5.5V input - the output is about 5.2V
From 5.4V and down to 4.5V input - the output (V)=(input voltage)-0.27V
For example, for 5.1V input – output is 4.83V (and A229 Plus turns-off)
At about 4.4 input HK4 is off.
So the HK4 always works as a buck converter.

And...... both HK4's require at least 9V±0.5V to turn on, so no, they will not work with a 6V system. 🙁
 
The above measurements match my own measurements when playing with HK3-C adapter and joining the red+yellow input wires (effectively disabling the park mode switch).

The regulator needs ~9v to turn on. It maintains a pretty constant 5.2v of output all of the way up to ~19v input. I didn't test higher voltages.
On the way down, the regulator provides about 5.2v until the input voltage dips to about 5.5v, at which point it fades and turns itself off with another few tenths of drop on the input side.

For classic cars on a 6v system, the hurdle is getting a 9v source to activate the regulator. With some additional circuitry (not hard to build), you could wire in a boost converter that turns on the Viofo regulator with the ACC switch, then use a transistor as a switch that removes the boost converter after a cap is charged (or discharged) for a few seconds.

Such a circuit would effectively be the opposite of a "slow start" switch for a high current draw device that ramps up current and then removes itself from the power supply path after a few seconds. You need this circuit to start high (9v or more) to activate the Viofo regulator, then have it remove itself and keep the regulator running with a 6v supply until your turn off the ignition. Sounds like a transistor or two, a cap and a resistor would probably do the trick...
 
Panzer Platform said:
OK, how do you suggest they add a setting to disable low voltage cutoff for use with dash cam battery packs?
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In light of recent events, when choosing a separate battery for parking mode, I completely agree with the opinion of the user Nigel.
A cutoff of 10.8V will be the most optimal for using both AGM batteries and LiFePO4.
Nigel said:
I suspect 10.0V may be too low for a lead acid battery to still power a dashcam, so a little higher might be sensible, so lets go for 10.8V.
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Karagandinez said:
In light of recent events, when choosing a separate battery for parking mode, I completely agree with the opinion of the user Nigel.
A cutoff of 10.8V will be the most optimal for using both AGM batteries and LiFePO4.
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It depends how the hardwire kit will be used.
If used with a dedicated dash cam battery pack it is preferable to have Low Voltage Protection completely disabled so you get all available capacity from the pack.
This is because all dedicated dash cam battery packs have a built-in BMS (battery management system) that will shut off the pack to prevent damage when voltage drops to a certain level.

On the other hand vehicle starter batteries do not have a built-in BMS.
So maybe we need two different hardwire kits;
1.) One for dedicated dash cam battery packs
2.) One for vehicle starter batteries
 
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