Which fuses to avoid tapping into?

DashCamUser123

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I have a 2021 Corolla L CVT. I have the Viofo A129 Duo (original model being discontinued). I have the BBMyCar Bi-750 and BE-750 chained together.

I finally managed to access the interior fuse box below. Which fuses should I avoid? I will need to do 2 tap-a-fuse. Each one draws 5A (Vortex Radar did a test and found each ACC only draws 5A and not the 6A in the advertising. I will need to tap into any fuse that is 10A or greater (if I recall).

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TKSX

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I would probably tap into P/outlet # 1 fuse (15A). If my guess is correct, it should be the cig. lighte fuse.
Of course, you can also check the empty slots and see if you can tap from there.

Since I do not drive the same car as you and I am not familar with Toyotas, please double check before proceeding. Good luck.
 
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DashCamUser123

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I would probably tap into P/outlet # 1 fuse (15A). If my guess is correct, it should be the cig. lighte fuse.
Of course, you can also check the empty slots and see if you can tap from there.

Since I do not drive the same car as you and I am not familar with Toyotas, please double check before proceeding. Good luck.
Thanks. I will consider the cig-lighter fuse. Is there an issue if I already have things hooked up to the cig-lighter such as a Garmin GPS and charging external batteries (RavPower, iPad, etc.)?
 

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The important bit is to find a tap that isn't killed off by the starter motor.

There are dozens, probably more, posts here where the situation is :

Ignition on = dashcam starts startup procedure
Starter motor kills power = dashcam starts shutdown procedure
Engine fires and power restored, but, dashcam is still shutting down and does not recognise power restore.
 

SawMaster

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Numerous and ever-changing
Maybe not needed, but a "Public Safety Reminder" ;)

Never tap fuses related to car safety
such as exterior lighting, ABS, airbags(SRS), and engine controls

Phil
 

TKSX

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Thanks. I will consider the cig-lighter fuse. Is there an issue if I already have things hooked up to the cig-lighter such as a Garmin GPS and charging external batteries (RavPower, iPad, etc.)?
I usually don't plug any charging devices via the 12v cigar lighter on things that I can safety and efficiently charge at home unless it is an emergency (That's what power banks are for).

In other words, it "should" be ok but keep in mind that the Bi-750 might require more juice to charge your car. You don't want to pop the fuse and your dashcam goes into parking mode in the middle of your journey.
 
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DashCamUser123

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I usually don't plug any charging devices via the 12v cigar lighter on things that I can safety and efficiently charge at home unless it is an emergency (That's what power banks are for).

In other words, it "should" be ok but keep in mind that the Bi-750 might require more juice to charge your car. You don't want to pop the fuse and your dashcam goes into parking mode in the middle of your journey.
Not understanding this part: "... the Bi-750 might require more juice to charge your car."

I always run a GoPro in addition to the Viofo A129 Duo. The GoPro is a backup and can also be dismounted and taken outside the car. I really do not need a GoPro given how reliable the Viofo A129 Duo is but on 2 occasion the A129 was frozen (screen is on but frozen with an outdated video image so not recording perhaps. I only knew it was frozen because the image did not change on rear picture in picture on the LCD when I applied the brake lights. So I realized the image that was displayed on the LCD was not live footage).

BTW, does anyone know many amps a GoPro 7 draws plugged in via USB on the cig-lighter? And a Garmin GPS? I am sure it will not exceed or come close to the 10A max on the cig-lighter splitter. One of the Bi-750 ACC will draw a max of 6A but likely 5A based on other reviews here. So, If the cig-lighter is only drawing max of 6A and the Bi-750 is drawing max 6A, then I should be fine as the Power Outlet fuse is 15A.
 
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DashCamUser123

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Does anyone know where I can get the acronyms on the battery cover deciphered correctly? I mean some are self-explanatory but I just want to be sure of the meaning. Like Fog RR. This probably stands for rear defogger but just a guess. Then I found this in the link below. Rear Fog Light (RR FOG).

Is there a website that explains what each one stands for?

I just found this page which is helpful.
Toyota Fuses
 
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I have a 2021 Corolla L CVT. I have the Viofo A129 Duo (original model being discontinued). I have the BBMyCar Bi-750 and BE-750 chained together.

I finally managed to access the interior fuse box below. Which fuses should I avoid? I will need to do 2 tap-a-fuse. Each one draws 5A (Vortex Radar did a test and found each ACC only draws 5A and not the 6A in the advertising. I will need to tap into any fuse that is 10A or greater (if I recall).

View attachment 56972

Avoid Modules, ECU's, Electronics, Safety Systems (airbags, etc) at all costs. Safe things are like Power Locks (battery), Power Seats (Recommended - Battery), etc. But you have to see what systems are tied. As someones innocent fuses are less than innocent.
 

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I just did an install on a 2021 Corolla XLE for a B4K camera with parking mode. I used RADIO as the constant 12 volts and WASHER for switched 12 volts.
 

HonestReview

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I just did an install on a 2021 Corolla XLE for a B4K camera with parking mode. I used RADIO as the constant 12 volts and WASHER for switched 12 volts.

Whom am I to say maybe tapping the radio isn't a good idea. Chances are your 2021 has a bunch of other systems connected to the radio fuse. One thing you want to avoid is tapping into modules, safety system, and and electronics if all possible. A car radio isn't just a radio these days. ISo there are other variables at work. Like infotainment systems are often tied to safety systems and other critical systems. Meaning tapping the Radio Fuse may not be a smart move.

Might want to pick something more benign.
 

jokiin

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Too many ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Whom am I to say maybe tapping the radio isn't a good idea. Chances are your 2021 has a bunch of other systems connected to the radio fuse. One thing you want to avoid is tapping into modules, safety system, and and electronics if all possible. A car radio isn't just a radio these days. ISo there are other variables at work. Like infotainment systems are often tied to safety systems and other critical systems. Meaning tapping the Radio Fuse may not be a smart move.

Might want to pick something more benign.
the B+ for the radio is generally a very safe choice (particularly on a Toyota), it just keeps the clock running and doesn't cut out during starting
 

HonestReview

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the B+ for the radio is generally a very safe choice (particularly on a Toyota), it just keeps the clock running and doesn't cut out during starting

Considering I cannot locate a 2021 (or 2020) Toyota Corolla fuse box diagram at all, I wouldn't assume anything. A lot of cars now allow for safety systems to be controlled through the infotainment. Where the Radio is integrated into the same infotainment unit. Not like some early 2010's and before models where a radio was just a radio.
 

jokiin

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Too many ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Considering I cannot locate a 2021 (or 2020) Toyota Corolla fuse box diagram at all, I wouldn't assume anything. A lot of cars now allow for safety systems to be controlled through the infotainment. Where the Radio is integrated into the same infotainment unit. Not like some early 2010's and before models where a radio was just a radio.
we do a lot of Toyota's, I wish all cars were as well thought out as they are, CAN-BUS systems that have vehicle settings integrated into the radio aren't a problem for this, CAN-BUS has plenty of other issues though, particularly on Euro cars
 

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Turn on the radio then start the engine. If the starter motor cranking temporarily cuts the radio then I'd not use that tap for ignition detection.
 

jokiin

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Turn on the radio then start the engine. If the starter motor cranking temporarily cuts the radio then I'd not use that tap for ignition detection.
it's the B+ feed to the radio (keeps the clock), the radio can still turn off while starting, that's the ACC feed which is not being used
 
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