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In my case, I could have stopped at .9 which is just a hair and could have been perfect.

Weird. If you can't s hut it with .9mm, wonder how a penny with 1.52 seems to fit under it ok? Unless the mint is wrong in the thickness. Ill have to measure.
 
Not much loss in stacking as long as the paste is used correctly. Not ideal but not bad.

Regular thermal paste is very thin once applied and meant to only fill in tiny gaps such as slight machining marks and very minor surface flatness issues. Not even a single thickness of notebook paper should be involved. And any reputable brand will do- I'm still using an old tube of cheap crap from Radio Shack I got ten years ago. You don't need much but it needs to be applied everywhere there should be contact. And paste joints need parts clamping for use- they aren't meant to hold or align parts. Anything thicker will have more heat-transfer losses, and if you can't do clamping that's what thermal epoxy is for, not paste.

Only geeks pushing their PC's to insane levels need to be particular about which paste to use. With something like this even my cheap paste won't be bested by more than a degree or two of cam operating temp by the very best pastes, and maybe not even that much. This is "proof of concept" work, so all you need is to show that the improved heat sinking actually does work well, and you or Zenfox can fine-tune everything later to get that last degree.

Phil
 
Weird. If you can't s hut it with .9mm, wonder how a penny with 1.52 seems to fit under it ok? Unless the mint is wrong in the thickness. Ill have to measure.
Make sure it doesn't create a curvature upwards to the shield. Heat sing needs to sit completely flush.
 
Not much loss in stacking as long as the paste is used correctly. Not ideal but not bad.

Regular thermal paste is very thin once applied and meant to only fill in tiny gaps such as slight machining marks and very minor surface flatness issues. Not even a single thickness of notebook paper should be involved. And any reputable brand will do- I'm still using an old tube of cheap crap from Radio Shack I got ten years ago. You don't need much but it needs to be applied everywhere there should be contact. And paste joints need parts clamping for use- they aren't meant to hold or align parts. Anything thicker will have more heat-transfer losses, and if you can't do clamping that's what thermal epoxy is for, not paste.

Only geeks pushing their PC's to insane levels need to be particular about which paste to use. With something like this even my cheap paste won't be bested by more than a degree or two of cam operating temp by the very best pastes, and maybe not even that much. This is "proof of concept" work, so all you need is to show that the improved heat sinking actually does work well, and you or Zenfox can fine-tune everything later to get that last degree.

Phil
Is using a clean finger to apply the thermal paste ok? I don't have an applicator. I also have a tube I bought a couple of years ago. Don't know how good or bad in quality is but since I already have it20200707_212533.jpg
 
Use finger in plastic approach, maybe plastic glove from gas station ( some fear gasoline on fingers )
Use old plastic card as spatula to spread it out.
 
Stick your finger in a plastic baggie if it worries you. I just use my work-toughened finger and wash up afterward. I ain't dead yet!

Phil
 
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I used my bare finger and washed it afterwards :D
 
Make sure it doesn't create a curvature upwards to the shield. Heat sing needs to sit completely flush.

I think the mint is full of sh*t. I believe you are correct. I took a quarter which I thought using american coins would make this easy (Mint Publishes Figures), but those figures are wrong. A quarter is maybe .9mm to 1mm thick. So you are right. So max I want to get is either 20x20mm .8 or 1mm copper plate. Maybe 1mm as it will make a very snug fit. 8mm might not be snug. 1mm may be very snug.

Wonder if i get 1mm and if too tall take sand paper to it?
 
I think the mint is full of sh*t. I believe you are correct. I took a quarter which I thought using american coins would make this easy (Mint Publishes Figures), but those figures are wrong. A quarter is maybe .9mm to 1mm thick. So you are right. So max I want to get is either 20x20mm .8 or 1mm copper plate. Maybe 1mm as it will make a very snug fit. 8mm might not be snug. 1mm may be very snug.

Wonder if i get 1mm and if too tall take sand paper to it?
Yes, you will probably be better of trying the 1mm and do adjustments if needed by sanding down some, then polishing as the final step
 
Yes, you will probably be better of trying the 1mm and do adjustments if needed by sanding down some, then polishing as the final step
I got mine tuned snug finally. First try, the copper plate (dry or without the compound) was able to move some on its own. I shaved down the edges of the plate so it would sit lower, maybe .1mm and this time the plate was able to barely touch the copper shim allowing not to slide but not creating any bulging to the top. That was my goal. After the thermal compound applied there is no way it would slide anywhere. I just made sure to apply pressure right directly on top of the cpu chip while slightly pressing the rest of the plate to ensure air pockets are forced out and they both bond together nicely. I haven't yet determine which Heatsink I will be using. That will be something I will decide tomorrow.
So with yours, you can try with 1mm but provably .9mm is what you need. That way you don't have to shave down any of the emi plate as I did. It is not that easy and you risk bending it.
 
Yes, you will probably be better of trying the 1mm and do adjustments if needed by sanding down some, then polishing as the final step

I'm on the fence. Honestly it might be better to do 8mm. I measured a penny and quarter again. They both seem shy of 1mm. So 8 or 9mm tops. Not sure how easy it would be to hand sand down 1MM if it is too tall. I don't have a power sander. If I go .8mm, I think I'd be safe as I can't imagine .1mm is going to make a whole lot of difference. I think the thermal paste should be able to handle that small of a gap.

1MM might require too much hand sanding and polishing to get a perfect snug fit. I think "Good Enough" should be sufficient.
 
I got mine tuned snug finally. First try, the copper plate (dry or without the compound) was able to move some on its own. I shaved down the edges of the plate so it would sit lower, maybe .1mm and this time the plate was able to barely touch the copper shim allowing not to slide but not creating any bulging to the top. That was my goal. After the thermal compound applied there is no way it would slide anywhere. I just made sure to apply pressure right directly on top of the cpu chip while slightly pressing the rest of the plate to ensure air pockets are forced out and they both bond together nicely. I haven't yet determine which Heatsink I will be using. That will be something I will decide tomorrow.
So with yours, you can try with 1mm but provably .9mm is what you need. That way you don't have to shave down any of the emi plate as I did. It is not that easy and you risk bending it.

The precut copper plates are .8mm or 1mm. I'll get .8mm. Better a little short and the thermal paste can fill in that .1mm. That's such a small fraction. Otherwise, if I go 1mm, I'm thinking it MAY NOT fit??? As you said .9mm is very snug, right?
 
9mm is very snug, right?
Yes, that is what I calculate in mine after the adjustment. .8mm on the copper and adding what I removed from the lip edge of the lid which was aprox .1
 
Yes, that is what I calculate in mine after the adjustment. .8mm on the copper and adding what I removed from the lip edge of the lid which was aprox .1

So will ordering .8mm Copper Plate be good? I imagine .8mm Copper Plate and Thermal Paste should hold pretty tight. 1mm is going to be too tall I believe. Going to place order now for .8mm 20x20mm plate.
 
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Yes, It will probably be ok.
 
Ok will give 8mm a shot. Problem on the 1mm is id have to sand it down and polish. Not in the mood to play perfection LOL.
Lol, I can understand that.
 
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