Noob question: looking for front/rear Dashcam kit recommendations

weedkill3

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Preferred requirements:

1. Hard wireable...do I need one that comes with a kit or I can buy it separately? They're some that use OBT II sensor plug in? or better to hardwire to car battery

AND b) has automatic car battery voltage monitoring

2. 140 degree viewing (no 180s please)

3. Front 1440p

4. Rear - I prefer 1440p...but it seems the majority are 1080p? Can I buy two separate front 1440ps (like the Garmin 55w) and put one in back? or is that a PITA?

5. GPS

6. Cloud Storage ...paid or free..

7. Reliability in hot weather

8. Buffered parking mode...the one where it on;y records when an even happens...is this the preferred parking method?

I look fwd to your suggestions. Thank you.
 
Welcome to the forum.

1: Most dashcams you can get a hard wire kit for, most often sold separate, all Street guardians cameras you can hard wire with what is provided, in their case you just snip off 12 V power plug that you would normally stick into the lighter socket in the dash or center console.
That way however is only for neatness / having your dash socket free for other stuff, it do not support parking guard, to do that with a SG camera you also need a hard wire kit ( aside for the SG9663DR that do come with the hard wire kit due to the nature of that model ( it being a dual remote camera )
In almost all cases you will have a low voltage protection in the hard wire kit, this most often have 4 select able cut off voltages between 11.8 and 12.4 volts ( 12.2 being the recommended one to use )

2: Most cameras are around that FOV, many claim more but that is just BS.
3: Front 1440p do narrow down the options, but there are a few dual systems with that.
4: Yes no dual 1440p cameras yet, i would like to see that though, so rear cameras are most often 1080p
5: GPS are almost the norm to find included today.
6: That narrow it f´down even more to less than a handful of brands like Blackvue - Thinkware
7: Parking mode in a hot place is a tough call with any camera, not least if the car is facing the sun and the camera get direct sun exposure ( you do not want to use one of those sun blocking things to put in the windscreen, a dashcam sandwiched between than and the windscreen risk literally melting.
Otherwise normal operation is fine, also if you have just been parked 4 hours in death valley while you have been exploring the place on foot

8: thats another problem,,,,,, well for some of us at least. buffered mode mean you are relying on a trigger, this could be motion ( extremely rare that work without creating too many false events )
Then you have G - sensor, which do stand a better chance indeed, but this do not mean some punke keying the side of your car get recorded, as that deed are not really a G event per say, a small parking lor door ding might also not be picked up.
Then there is the buffered part, and that do also work if the trigger was there, but in worst cases you have a few seconds from before,,,,,,, which could also be just fine.

Personally as a new comer to parking mode i prefer the always recording low bitrate, paired with G sensor if there is a actual big event.
But ! even this have some downsides to it.
It might be something small the G sensor dont trigger by, and even if you sit and look / listen to every second of parking mode you record the door ding might not be recorded by the MIC.
And there is a chance you yourself probably dont notice a little door ding, not least if it is not on the driver side of the car.
Another downside of always record low bitrate is that the files are considered as regular files, so they are not locked as is, that would only happen if a trigger get kicked off.
So on my view if you are going to be using parking guard it is imperative to pair that with a substantial sized memory card that at least allow you a day or two of buffer before a event might get overwritten.

Personally i dont feel like a need for parking guard, but when brands send me a camera that can do that and the hardware to do it, then i must of course do it, but then i generally do it on a timer or at least with a very high cut off voltage to save the little battery in my little car.
At home i have CCTV on my car as thats a much better option there. ( i live in a 2 floor apartment my IP camera are screwed to my balcony door filming my car parked in the back yard )

If i was to use a smart system, i would be extremely miffed if i got notifications too often on my phone,,,,, not least since i am a avid phone hater but still have one for other reasons ( old sick mother )
My IP camera at home have smart motion detect, it only set off if something human or vehicle shaped get within 1 M of my car, so i can sleep without getting woken up by notifications on my tablet on my bedside table.
 
THanks for your reply..so im limited to blackvue and thinkware...any particular models u can recommend for front/rear?
 
Oh and it is worth getting a dashcam with cloud storage? Is the connection reliable?

Can u tell me which non-cloud dashcams u recommend with the parameters listed above (except for cloud)?
 
Personally i dont give a toss for the current smart cameras, seem like it is just more things to go wrong.

For the smart to work, well you either need a AP in the car, or buy a wifi 4 / 5 G AP to put in your car, though some new models also have build in AP so just throw in a SIM cards there.
There is also the cost for a data connection, at the current prices for a flat rate mobile internet subscription in Denmark i am not able or willing to go there with my pension.
Of course it also depend on how that internet / cloud thing is used, if it is just events that go there then data could be limited if the camera dont create a lot of false events.
If you was to store everything in the cloud in the MAX image quality, then you would need to upload about 1 GB of data every minute from a good 2 channel system with one 1440p camera, so then a 1 hour drive is 60GB on your data plan, so then you need to have that as a not capped flat rate, and also be within good 4G connection all the time.

And even here in little old pretty flat Denmark, with a pretty decent mobile infrastructure ( too ) it is not always i am in 4G territory, and i am connect4ed to two nationwide 4G networks ( the one thru a roaming agreement )
and we have like 4-5 nationwide 4G networks here, and we will have 3 - 4 nationwide 5G networks within the next 5 years.
As i understand it things are a lot different in the US, not least due to your country's massive size.

I think both Blackvue and Thinkware have some minimal free cloud service, anything more than that and of course it will cost something too, but how much i have no idea, i have not had a chance to try any cameras from the 2 brands, so i am leaning on hear / say from this site.
you can go browse the 2 brands sub forums here, the latest and biggest Thinkware i think is called U1000 and it is 4K on the front camera, Blackvues new series are called XXX ( number ) X series, same numbers as last seasons models but now a X affixed to the name.
 
Preferred requirements:

1. Hard wireable...do I need one that comes with a kit or I can buy it separately? They're some that use OBT II sensor plug in? or better to hardwire to car battery

AND b) has automatic car battery voltage monitoring

2. 140 degree viewing (no 180s please)

3. Front 1440p

4. Rear - I prefer 1440p...but it seems the majority are 1080p? Can I buy two separate front 1440ps (like the Garmin 55w) and put one in back? or is that a PITA?

5. GPS

6. Cloud Storage ...paid or free..

7. Reliability in hot weather

8. Buffered parking mode...the one where it on;y records when an even happens...is this the preferred parking method?

I look fwd to your suggestions. Thank you.
Have a look at Thinkware and BlackVue cloud dash cam!
 
From what I read about it seems that Blackvue is easier to set up and use for extended connectivity, but that should not be the only parameter you look at. Cams are for driving and parking protection first and foremost, and they need good imaging and all-weather reliability to do that. A shut-down cam or one that shows you none of the needed details is worthless no matter what else it might do.

Phil
 
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