SG9665GC hard wiring into Skoda Octavia MK3 2017

niko

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Dash Cam
Street Guardian UK / EU / EEA Distributor
One of my local customers whom I had installed over a year ago Street Guardian SG9665GC v2 asked me to re-install / hardwire dashcam into his brand new Skoda Octavia MK3 2017.
Because this car has start-stop function I had to test-n-try suitable fuse to power dascham to avoid any surprises for later use, hence I want to share my experience with hard wiring into this car.

1. This is the final result after dashcam has been installed.SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (1).jpg
2. Access to the fuse box was a little bit tricky because it was not quite straight forward as on previous Skoda / VW models I had installation experience with in the past and also some steps were not matching Maintenance Manual of this Skoda.
- pull away side cover
- use a flat screwdriver, or in my case, I used plastic trim removal tool (red color on the picture, black color you get with SG9665GC set), push it through side panel holes and lift glove box lever which is clipped to the "shaft". The installation process is vice versa, you need to guide glove box slower-lever hook to the "shaft" position and then just press from the top so it will clip into the place.

SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (2).jpg
3. This is what you see behind the glove box.


SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (3).jpg

4. In that car unused fuse port was nr.48 which is "Assist system for blind spot monitoring". I hooked up my multimeter, we made few test drives, tested start-stop to make sure this fuse remain powered. All was good.

SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (4).jpg
5. This is full-size ATO / ATV fuse.
SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (5).jpg
6. For proper installation, I have used ATO/ATV piggy back, add-a-circuit. SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (6).jpg
7. ran power and GPS antenna cables behind A-pillar.
SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (7).jpg
8. I am using cable-clips to keep cables behind air-bag. Do not run cables in front of airbags!
P.S. - SG9665GC V2 version had GPS antenna with longer cable and no pre-flipped GPS receiver module, so it is initially meant to be mounted on the dash, what I did in this case. Do not confuse with SG9665GC V3 which comes with shorter GPS antenna cable and pre-flipped GPS received which is meant to be mounted on the windshield.
SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (8).jpg

Final result.
SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (9).jpg

SG9665GC Skoda Octavia MK3 2017 (10).jpg
 
Nice clean install. Looks like that octavia has a good amount of black dot shading for mounting a camera.
 
@niko, what is the best technique for removing the cover from the A-pillar? On some vehicles, (like my Toyota truck) this can be challenging.
 
I would say go to a salvage yard find i similar vehicle to practice on, and then just say i dident find what i needed.

Some times these things stich damn hard so you think i must have missed a screw and why shouldent i have done that cuz so far i haven't found a single screw.
 
Nice going, fine result! Exactly the same position would be ideal for my camera. Not to mention my A-pillar airbag where I have to remove the cover and place the cable on the car's cable holder.

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@niko, what is the best technique for removing the cover from the A-pillar? On some vehicles, (like my Toyota truck) this can be challenging.

I don't remember when last time I have installed into Toyota truck, but from my experience, there are 3 common type/ways how A-pillar cover is attached.

1). few spring-clips, - you just pull away slightly edge of the A-pillar cover from the top, peek inside to find out where exactly is the 1st clip from the top, grab that part with fingers from both sides of the cover and by applying sudden quick short force you pull away spring-clip from its place. Then move to 2nd clip position.

2). few sping-clips, but one of them (usually top one) has also around 5cm long rubber string attached between A-pillar cover and A-pillar metal. So be careful not to apply to much pulling force in order not to break that rubber string. Other than that removal process is similar to the one above.

3). in case you see on A-pillar cover top part square plastic logo with embedded "AirBag" word on it, - do not pull away A-pillar cover like in other two above described cases. Usually, behind those "airbag" plastic covers, there is a hidden screw. Pry away with a small screwdriver that sware plastic "airbag" cover and you will see the screw, usually, it is Phillips or T20 head screw. Unscrw it and only then you can start pulling away a-pillar cover from its other clips holding positions.

I also use THIS tool to make removal of A-pillars and other parts of trim safer and more comfortable.

HTB1wdf_QVXXXXXiaXXXq6xXFXXXV.jpg
 
I don't remember when last time I have installed into Toyota truck, but from my experience, there are 3 common type/ways how A-pillar cover is attached.

1). few spring-clips, - you just pull away slightly edge of the A-pillar cover from the top, peek inside to find out where exactly is the 1st clip from the top, grab that part with fingers from both sides of the cover and by applying sudden quick short force you pull away spring-clip from its place. Then move to 2nd clip position.

2). few sping-clips, but one of them (usually top one) has also around 5cm long rubber string attached between A-pillar cover and A-pillar metal. So be careful not to apply to much pulling force in order not to break that rubber string. Other than that removal process is similar to the one above.

3). in case you see on A-pillar cover top part square plastic logo with embedded "AirBag" word on it, - do not pull away A-pillar cover like in other two above described cases. Usually, behind those "airbag" plastic covers, there is a hidden screw. Pry away with a small screwdriver that sware plastic "airbag" cover and you will see the screw, usually, it is Phillips or T20 head screw. Unscrw it and only then you can start pulling away a-pillar cover from its other clips holding positions.

I also use THIS tool to make removal of A-pillars and other parts of trim safer and more comfortable.

HTB1wdf_QVXXXXXiaXXXq6xXFXXXV.jpg

Thanks @niko!

Yes, I'm familiar with those clips from my Toyota. Some are very easy to remove since they have a release mechanism. Some on my truck just pop right out even without a tool if you press the button in the middle of the clip. The problem I sometimes run into is that some clips are not made to easily re-insert and reuse so I've had to buy replacements which my local mechanic is happy to order for me.

A few things with the Toyota are tricky if you don't know before hand how they function. For example, in the rear of my headliner there are two coat hooks that hold everything in place but if you don't know that they have to be twisted to the left to come out like a key in a lock then you risk breaking them. I basically gave up until someone here on DCT explained the "secret" to me.

The Toyota Tacoma A-pillar is tricky because it has a grab handle and the edges of the cover don't make for easy access with a pry tool. First you need to unscrew the handle with a socket wrench after removing the covers, but those covers don't want to pop off too easily and they can get damaged. After that you have to pop the A-pillar cover off but the clips are blind and there is no way to know which kind of clips hold it on before hand. I've heard a few stories about people who couldn't get the cover back on securely after removing the A-pillar cover and that is the reason for my hesitation. At some point I will screw up my courage and see what happens when I remove it. I keep asking people who might have done this before on this model truck. Your advice here is very helpful, so thanks again.

a-pillar.jpg

This photo was found on the internet. They guy says the A-pillar cover is a PITA.
a-pillar1.jpg
 
too easily and they can get damaged.

you risk breaking them.

yeah, this is the familiar situation. I have broken quite many things in my cars by being too curious and incompetent. But this is a part of how we all learn and pay the price for lessons.

I bought THIS universal clips set to backup my mistakes during hard wiring and in-car fiddlings.

HTB1oyf3QXXXXXbWapXXq6xXFXXXy.jpg
 
yeah, this is the familiar situation. I have broken quite many things in my cars by being too curious and incompetent. But this is a part of how we all learn and pay the price for lessons.

I bought THIS universal clips set to backup my mistakes during hard wiring and in-car fiddlings.

HTB1oyf3QXXXXXbWapXXq6xXFXXXy.jpg


Thanks for posting about these bulk replacement clips! I will order them.
Wish I knew about these being available sooner! :arghh: The dealership charges a small fortune for parts like this. At least my mechanic has been able to get them for me cheaper.
 
I bought THIS universal clips set to backup my mistakes during hard wiring and in-car fiddlings.

it's not even about mistakes, a lot of the clips manufacturers use are intentionally single use clips, being able to reuse them is often a bonus
 
Thanks for posting about these bulk replacement clips! I will order them.
Wish I knew about these being available sooner! :arghh: The dealership charges a small fortune for parts like this. At least my mechanic has been able to get them for me cheaper.

No problem. Hope you and others will find them useful, besides they cost almost nothing but may save a lot of time, money and frustration in the future.
 
it's not even about mistakes, a lot of the clips manufacturers use are intentionally single use clips, being able to reuse them is often a bonus

I know just what you mean. In fact some of the clips in @niko's photo appear to be that kind.....made to insert and lock but not removed easily without damage. (third row down)
 
I know just what you mean. In fact some of the clips in @niko's photo appear to be that kind.....made to insert and lock but not removed easily without damage. (third row down)

yep plenty of them are, they're meant to be replaced whenever they're removed but with a bit of care and the right type of tools you can often reuse a lot of them, on older cars you sometimes have little choice as the clips end up becoming obsolete (now that cars made of plastic are starting to fall into the 'older cars' category) so replacing the clips with new ones isn't always an option anyway
 
mate of mine has a VZ V6 that he has spent a few months on trying to work out why it has a random intermittent misfire, took it to holdens after he gave up and holden wrote it off because of an engine misfire, they said it would cost more to diagnose and fix than the cars worth after spending a few hours on it and finding nothing.
 
Thanks for this. I am looking at getting this camera in the next day or two. I am familiar with wiring into my truck as I have done many mods to it. Some mods were done where I sourced the correct terminal/pin, crimped the wire, and landed many missing circuits into places that would have been present had I bought the truck with those features, keeping things factory looking...

So my question is...

What is the suggested source of power to tap into. I have the following:

Battery Positive Voltage - Hot all the time. From what I am reading, not the way to go.
Ignition Run/Crank Voltage - Hot when the vehicle is running/started, off when the engine is turned off.
Accessory Power (Retained Accessory Power) - Only on when ACC power is activated, energized for approximately 10 minutes after shutting the ignition OFF and removing the key, providing no door is opened.

It seems that Accessory Power is the way to go as the cigarette light receptacles are powered from RAP. While i see the add-a-fuse is the most recommended, would there be any opposition to tying this wire into an existing circuit that draws from the same RAP? Does add-a-fuse method keep the camera on a separate fused circuit?

Thanks in advance!
 
313f19c2c96f8c382c02c381db39c184.jpg
Thanks! This is my driver side fuse block. The white wire shown with the arrow is a circuit I added that is Run/Crank Voltage for an Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror I added.

There is an available circuit (ACC Voltage) in this connector that I can land into. Any opposition to doing it like this as opposed to an Add-A-Fuse method?


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the add a fuse method is for the most part about making things easy to setup, tapping power elsewhere is no real issue but I'd still suggest making sure you have it fused, the fuse is there to protect the vehicle, not the device
 
the add a fuse method is for the most part about making things easy to setup, tapping power elsewhere is no real issue but I'd still suggest making sure you have it fused, the fuse is there to protect the vehicle, not the device

The slot I plan to land it into has a fuse to the left. So it should be fused. I look at this as if the device would be installed by factory, and think how they would have installed it. The fused circuit has 10a fuse. So once landed in its slot, I should be able to pull its respective fuse and it should kill power to the device. I believe this slot is also used for the moonroof (which I don't have) and the rear sliding window. Which all hit a 50a fuse for the relay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The slot I plan to land it into has a fuse to the left. So it should be fused. I look at this as if the device would be installed by factory, and think how they would have installed it. The fused circuit has 10a fuse. So once landed in its slot, I should be able to pull its respective fuse and it should kill power to the device. I believe this slot is also used for the moonroof (which I don't have) and the rear sliding window. Which all hit a 50a fuse for the relay.


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if it's a fused circuit then yes you're good to go, if the white wire is one you've added yourself then I don't think there's any need to try and tell you how to do things, that's a neat OEM style install
 
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